I liked them very much as well other than the occasional crunching sound it makes at the terminal.Am I the only person in the world who actually kinda likes these cables?
I don't really believe it either, and in fact the Harman Research from Olive & Toole showed that there was no correlation between headphone price and user preference. I think really headphone quality comes down to a number of factors: frequency response, distortion, soundstage, channel matching. Frequency Response generally being the most influential as long as the other variables aren't completely messed up.....and indeed a lot of the boutique headphones have crazy messed up frequency responses with many jagged peaks & dips and often no particular rhyme or reason to the general shape of the frequency response. Distortion is an easy one to characterise, you measure it, but then the debate comes down to what levels of distortion are audible and also what SPL level should you measure distortion at.....for instance I know I don't listen loud (I calculated it) so I know Amir's 94dB distortion measurement is the only one that has relevance for me, and only then in the bass. Soundstage is very hard to characterise & no one really knows but it seems to be down to angled pads/drivers and large ear cups along with the frequency response heavily affecting this characteristic too. Channel Matching is easy to measure, and I've recently done a channel matching EQ for my K702 headphone, as Oratory measured my actual unit so I was able to channel match the channels exactly/perfectly (in frequency response from 20-10000Hz).....I think this has enhanced vocal clarity and beauty, found myself being able to understand words in previously difficult to understand vocals, as well as seeming to open up a bit more detail in subtle reverb on some voices or instruments in the recording, and also seemed to allow me to notice subtle or quick panning effects that I'd not noticed before - I have the impression that channel matching is a variable that can suffer in cheaper headphones as the manufacturer has not been able to include the time & expense to allow for proper selection of matching drivers. In conclusion I think I'd say there's not really a link between price & quality, with the exception of channel matching and possibly lower distortion in more expensive headphones, but re distortion & price less of a correlation as there are some expensive headphones with horrendous distortion.I can't imagine what headphones this expensive have that those at half this price don't. Is there really more labor or better materials or patented technology? I haven't tried any above $1k so maybe I'm just not exposed to finer things in life but I don't get it.
Link please.I am aware. There are calculations elsewhere that suggest 2w is overkill. 1.6w per channel is adequate to drive it. Balanced input from sabaj d5 jacks up voltage dishing out adequate available grunt for these headphones for my ears.
Check out some calculations from solderdude.
HE400i = 107dB/V
For 30Hz incl. Harman bass efficiency drops to 100dB/V (assuming your target is Harman)
We want bass so let's go with that.
You want to reach 120dB SPL (100Phon) in the bass so that's 10V.
10V in 40 ohm = 2.5W
The mids and treble, at this level, could reach 120Phon which would be unpleasant.
Then you can play impressively loud with bass beyond sensible levels.
1.6W will be 2dB less loudness.
When you don't want Harman type of bass required power levels will be well below 1W.
Of course for HE6SE things differ if you want to reach 100 Phon with Harman bass.
91dB/V will require 29V !!
Isn't the HE6SE a 50 Ohm device?
64 ohm measured by Amir.
Spec = 50 ohm.
the example was for HE400i based on manuf. specs.
You can't trust hifiman specs.
I had 2 HE560's one with 34 ohm and another with 56ohm
Hi man, not sure if your message was intended for my message above, but my G6 DAC only puts out 2V (nowhere near the 10V you mentioned), and I only listen at 86dB for an equivalent max Vrms on that headphone (0.08V), which will be in the bass and at perfect Harman levels down to 20Hz.HE400i = 107dB/V
For 30Hz incl. Harman bass efficiency drops to 100dB/V (assuming your target is Harman)
We want bass so let's go with that.
You want to reach 120dB SPL (100Phon) in the bass so that's 10V.
10V in 40 ohm = 2.5W
The mids and treble, at this level, could reach 120Phon which would be unpleasant.
Then you can play impressively loud with bass beyond sensible levels.
1.6W will be 2dB less loudness.
When you don't want Harman type of bass required power levels will be well below 1W.
Of course for HE6SE things differ if you want to reach 100 Phon with Harman bass.
91dB/V will require 29V in 60ohm = 14W = 105W in 8ohm (210W in 4ohm) amp directly on the speaker terminals.
There's a lot to unpack here, but I asked for info about how much power it takes to drive a HE6se. Also, you're DAC only puts out 2V probably because it's using RCA to connect to an amp. You need more than 2V to drive cans, that's what an amp is for. Lastly, calculators like that don't account for how much power it takes to produce noticeable sound in lower frequencies. I can plug my 600 ohm cans directly into my motherboard and get them loud, but they still sound like shit (due to lots of factors including noise, distortion, but also lack of bass).Hi man, not sure if your message was intended for my message above, but my G6 DAC only puts out 2V (nowhere near the 10V you mentioned), and I only listen at 86dB for an equivalent max Vrms on that headphone (0.08V), which will be in the bass and at perfect Harman levels down to 20Hz.
View attachment 131279
I have my JDS Labs Atom Amp at 12 o'clock on Low Gain (Unity Gain) combined with -3.5dB on the Windows Volume Slider (79%) and of course negative preamp to cover the EQ (about -9dB if I recall)......so I'm really not pushing my HE4XX even with Harman Bass EQ.
I don't need more than 2V to drive any of my headphones, in fact I only need a max of 0.08V (which is nowhere near 2V) to drive my headphones to the max levels I listen at (which will be in bass due to the Harman EQ I use):There's a lot to unpack here, but I asked for info about how much power it takes to drive a HE6se. Also, you're DAC only puts out 2V probably because it's using RCA to connect to an amp. You need more than 2V to drive cans, that's what an amp is for. Lastly, calculators like that don't account for how much power it takes to produce noticeable sound in lower frequencies. I can plug my 600 ohm cans directly into my motherboard and get them loud, but they still sound like shit (due to lots of factors including noise, distortion, but also lack of bass).
I don't need more than 2V to drive any of my headphones, in fact I only need 0.08V (which is nowhere near 2V) to drive my headphones to the max levels I listen at:
HP50:
View attachment 131280
K702:
View attachment 131281
HE4XX:
View attachment 131282
And then in terms of if I had my DAC at 2V max output combined with Low Gain at max volume on my JDS Labs Atom Amp:
HP50:
View attachment 131283
K702:
View attachment 131284
HE4XX:
View attachment 131285
As you can see there's plenty of headroom using a 2V DAC, and I only use 0.08V as a max Vrms!
My ears and head hurts beyond level shown in screenshot. Solderdude has given you math. Go figure.Link please.
What are you talking about? I'm showing you I don't need any more than 0.08V for my headphones (whereas you said you need more than 2V to drive headphones), which I calculated based on listening tests at my subjective max volume I listen at, based on using negative preamps in EqualiserAPO to dial down to an acceptable max listening level whilst my DAC is outputting 2V & JDS Labs headphone amp is at unity gain max volume....thereby by dialing down volume using dB negative preamp I can work out what my max Vrms & max dB SPL will be at my max subjective listening levels. The detailed methodology is explained at the following link, as I admit I've not explained it particularly well today:Nice troll. Not at all useful, but I'm sure you win points from the internet.
Cool. Sell your amp and connect all of your cans directly to your DAC; you've found the secret to winning the SINAD war. This is a thread about the HE6se, so this is a troll (look back at the thread for context if you're confused, but I'm done here).What are you talking about? I'm showing you I don't need any more than 0.08V for my headphones (whereas you said you need more than 2V to drive headphones), I calculated based on listening tests at my subjective max volume I listen at, based on using negative preamps in EqualiserAPO to dial down to an acceptable max listening level whilst my DAC is outputting 2V & JDS Labs headphone amp is at unity gain max volume....thereby by dialing down volume using dB negative preamp I can work out what my max Vrms & max dB SPL will be. The detailed methodology is explained at the following link, as I admit I've not explained it particularly well today:
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...-measured-by-oratory.22992/page-2#post-767745
I was replying to solderdude initially as I thought his post was aimed at my post where I was comparing HE400i with the HE6se (https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...iman-he6se-review-headphone.23576/post-790244), then you replied to one of my subsequent posts, and this is how the conversation developed when I picked up on the point you made that you think you need more than 2V to drive headphones, which you don't in pretty much all cases.....which is what my last posts have been showing you re my particular headphones. Of course some headphones are harder to drive than others, but it depends on your listening level and the headphone, certainly for my headphones, of which K702 is not a sensitive headphone I need only a max of 0.08 Vrms from the DAC. That's why I can keep my JDS Labs Atom amp on Low Gain (Unity Gain) and just use the volume dial on the amp to modulate the volume, I run my K702 from about 10 to 2 o'clock, but normally around 11, which is around half the travel on the volume pot. A good quality headphone amp allows you to run the DAC at max output for SINAD reasons whilst having hopefully an amp that has low distortion (and good current delivery abilities if you have headphones that require that ability, which I think is low ohm / low sensitivity headphones), so it's not really a waste having a headphone amp when you're only using Unity Gain.Cool. Sell your amp and connect all of your cans directly to your DAC; you've found the secret to winning the SINAD war. This is a thread about the HE6se, so this is a troll (look back at the thread for context if you're confused, but I'm done here).
Hi man, not sure if your message was intended for my message above