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Help with midrange & teeter integration

gags11

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I have this project going on for years, where I took apart a Klipsch RF-7ii and modified to a point where only it's cabinet and woofers are original.

I initially had this in an active set up with an electronic crossover, but recently decided to simplify my 2 channel system and move these to my Home Theater. I got the KEF R11s for my 2-channel.

Given my HT has only high level speaker wires coming in to the front speakers, I had to integrate a passive crossover. I tried over-the-counter crossover, but none did the job. Before starting to teach myself and delve into crossover design, I decided to try my Focal Crossblock 7 crossover from when I upgraded my GT3 stereo. This crossover looks all business and is beautiful at the same time. Long story short, I got some very nice results with this crossover, given the drivers it was designed for were very similar in load and FR.

My mirage is a ScanSpeak 12mu driver, which is awesome, and the teeter is a Pioneer pure berillium ribbon tweeter, an exotic. Prior to this, I had the teeter just resting on top of the speaker, but now I integrated it into the cabinet and my initial measurements are awesome. The directivity is not surprising and matches what Pioneer had published back in 70s. It has only about 7db drop at 15Khz at 90 degrees, I have not sen any current speaker do this.

The speakers may not look aesthetically finished yet, but I care less in my dark HT and always can improve the finishing.

Only problem, My right channel directivity looks sublime, while the left channel is a bit off. I would like some help in trying to find out what can be causing this. On axis is still ok, and both are wired with normal polarity.

All are in room 2 meter measurements, on axis, 70 degree and 90 degree horizontal directivity. No DSP applied, anything below 1khz looks off.

tempImageQQ9Lmz.jpg



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Right channel directivity.jpg


Left channel directivity.jpg



Pioneer PT-R7.png
 
Last edited:

alex-z

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In-room measurements at 2 metres aren't worth much.

You need to use gated measurements, in the largest open space you can. Measurement resolution is limited by your first reflection point, best case scenario is about 3.5ms if you have 8ft ceilings. If you have a measurement stand and a backyard, you can pretty easily get 7-8ms resolution.


If you truly want to do things properly, you need to do the measurement process for each driver individually with no crossover, including off-axis response. A full CEA-2034 spinorama is ideal, but even going out to 40 degrees off-axis is enough for a basic crossover design.

Also, I would repeat the whole process on the second set of drivers, there can be manufacturing variance, especially tweeters that are 45 years old.
 
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