Help with choosing audio setup for an apartment/shared space

[Jiraya369]

Hey guys, been roaming this site for a little while and only recently dove deeper due to my recent knack for speakers. I was thinking of getting a new laptop and saving up for it but my love for audio wins over anything rn lmao so im just gonna save up for audio stuff. Distance from where I want the speakers to be to my table and then my bed position is ~1m and then ~3m.

I live in an apartment/shared space, there's a room right beside mine and my door connects to a hallway. Room is ~20x~14 feet. My floors are made of wood and the walls are concrete. The door's frame and some parts of the ceiling and stuff are made from wood. There's a cabinet/closet in my room which is made from wood, beside my bed is a wooden nightstand and right in front of my bed is the table. The table is facing in such a way that if i open the door it leads me to the table, so if i put my speakers there it's gonna lead straight to the door. I'm planning to move the table in such a way that it faces the bed. The table is ~13x20 (edit it's 45x20) inches.

After which I will use it for both nearfield and midfield listening. Nearfield on the table and midfield on the bed, ofc it's not going to be perfect as the distance and the angles will not be the same, resulting in a compromised experience but would be better than nothing i think.

This is how the room is rn. Table on the top right, door on the top left, closet on the bottom left and my bed on the bottom right. The circle is the chair

This is what i will do, the table is facing the bed. And the neighbours are right after the table wall.

I've been using iems and car speakers for all my life, used headphones in the past but the hinge broke cus i dropped em a few too many times. Used the AT-M40X with my PC's dac and was power limited but i didnt know it was possible to get em louder lol. I got the Moondrop Aria later on, used em till this year till they started crackling and got a Moondrop x Crinacle DUSK alongside a Jcally Jm6 pro-esque dac, one with the CX31993 chip. That's my current setup and the most i've spent on audio.

I was thinking of getting open back headphones but wasn't willing to spend 2-4x more to get a similar sound quality to my iems. I researched headphones and saw Hifimans have dropped significantly in price and i am now considering them. The Arya Organic and HE1000 V2 Stealth specifically because i don't want to spend any more on a pair. The HE1K and Arya Organic were only 150 usd apart but now, just from this week, they're 350 usd apart, kinda making the HE1K a bit of a waste of money, but the metal build and extended warranty is nice. I was thinking of getting a DX3 Pro+ for the Arya and then thought about getting the DX5 II for the HE1K. That would've been my setup.

But then I started researching speakers and just was so fascinated. I mean sound was meant to come naturally to our ears, not in ears like iems nor really like headphones which fire right at our ears. Speakers are the perfect way to experience audio it seems and so I began researching speakers and I think my research has come to an end for now. I am going to list out my planned audio setups below with converted USD pricing but the ones that im thinking about are the KANTO Ora and the Ascilab F6Bs, the smaller size and the lower size are really tempting. And I was thinking of getting a Kanto ORA now and a Neumann KH310A later on but the Ascilab just look phenomenal. They seem to just be giving slightly more linear sound with mostly improvements in dynamic capabilities with the higher end stuff. The C6B being the perfect middle ground. I was thinking of saving up for an R3 Meta cus the Q Concerto Meta seemed a bit wonky comparatively but wow the Ascilab stuff look nearly just as good for far less. Incredible. The only thing about the KEF that would actually pull me to them would be the point source nature, they're tight yet still allow nice leeway. But there's also the design that's phenomenal. Anyways, I think that considering that the Ascilab are there, I don't really need to look at KEF or any other stuff, for now at least ig. So yeah I'm just mostly thinking about Ascilab stuff rn. I was also thinking of Kali Audio stuff, especially the IN-8 V2 but it's quite big and im trying to stay away from actives cus hearing about kef and stuff failing is scary! I was looking at the LSX II LT but the amount of people complaining about the amp failing is not something i can ignore. And the LS50 Meta dimensions aren't too far off from the F6Bs, I can get a full setup with these speakers for less than the passive LS50 Meta. That's what got me really attracted towards them.
I would use a DX3 Pro+ as a DAC, a Fosi ZA3 as an amp and then a minidsp mk-1 to calibrate for my room later on. So yeah there's that. For the price of a pair of Neumann KH120 II I can get a full range setup for myself. That's not a bad deal imo.

So yeah, I'd like some help on what I should go with, is the F6Bs setup im thinking of okay? What would I really gain from going to more expensive stuff from the Kanto ORA apart from dynamic capability/linearity/better distortion characteristics? Is there a special sauce? The Audioholics review showed the Kanto ORA to have very nice dispersion characteristics and the FR was quite nice as well. What would I gain from something like the A6B or R3 Meta if I eq them all and end up using a sub anyways? For the KEF the driver design ought to allow me to sit up and down and give me a more focused yet slightly wider soundstage vertically but what else apart from that and dynamics/distortion?

Additionally, what would you say I should do? Is it alright going for a speaker setup in this shared space or should I go for headphones? I was thinking of covering up the door's bottom part with some damper type thing and then getting a thick mattress/curtain and keep it near the door and then put it in front of it to stop the sound from going out too much or something lol. So yeah what do you guys think and what should i do?

Here's my list and the pricing where I live, converted to USD :

Headphones :

Arya Organic ‑ 892 USD
HE1000 V2 Stealth ‑ 1,256 USD

Topping DX3 Pro+ ‑ 198 USD
Topping DX5 II ‑ 343 USD

Total : 1,089‑1,601 USD



Speakers :

Kanto ORA : 278 USD

Ascilab F6Bs : 733 USD (with duty = 859‑991 USD)
Ascilab F6B : 847 USD
Ascilab C6B : 1,110 USD
KEF LSX II LT : 1,123 USD
KEF LS50 Meta : 1,652 USD
KEF Q Concerto Meta : 1,322 USD

Neumann KH80 : 1,189 USD
Neumann KH120 II : 2,115 USD

Topping DX3 Pro+ : 198 USD
Fosi ZA3 : 132 USD

Wiim Amp Pro : 463 USD
Wiim Amp Ultra : 595 USD

RSL Speedwoofer 10e : 396 USD

Total :
476 USD + sub (ORA)
1,063 USD + sub (F6Bs)
1,440 USD + sub (C6B)

JDS Labs RCA to RCA Cable 1.5m : 20 USD
Minidsp mic umik 1 : 132 USD

+ 330 USD for room proofing

 

[kawauso]

Hey guys, been roaming this site for a little while and only recently dove deeper due to my recent knack for speakers. I was thinking of getting a new laptop and saving up for it but my love for audio wins over anything rn lmao so im just gonna save up for audio stuff. Distance from where I want the speakers to be to my table and then my bed position is ~1m and then ~3m.

I live in an apartment/shared space, there's a room right beside mine and my door connects to a hallway. Room is ~20x~14 feet. My floors are made of wood and the walls are concrete. The door's frame and some parts of the ceiling and stuff are made from wood. There's a cabinet/closet in my room which is made from wood, beside my bed is a wooden nightstand and right in front of my bed is the table. The table is facing in such a way that if i open the door it leads me to the table, so if i put my speakers there it's gonna lead straight to the door. I'm planning to move the table in such a way that it faces the bed. The table is ~13x20 (edit it's 45x20) inches.

After which I will use it for both nearfield and midfield listening. Nearfield on the table and midfield on the bed, ofc it's not going to be perfect as the distance and the angles will not be the same, resulting in a compromised experience but would be better than nothing i think.

This is how the room is rn. Table on the top right, door on the top left, closet on the bottom left and my bed on the bottom right. The circle is the chair
View attachment 486269

This is what i will do, the table is facing the bed. And the neighbours are right after the table wall.
View attachment 486270
I've been using iems and car speakers for all my life, used headphones in the past but the hinge broke cus i dropped em a few too many times. Used the AT-M40X with my PC's dac and was power limited but i didnt know it was possible to get em louder lol. I got the Moondrop Aria later on, used em till this year till they started crackling and got a Moondrop x Crinacle DUSK alongside a Jcally Jm6 pro-esque dac, one with the CX31993 chip. That's my current setup and the most i've spent on audio.

I was thinking of getting open back headphones but wasn't willing to spend 2-4x more to get a similar sound quality to my iems. I researched headphones and saw Hifimans have dropped significantly in price and i am now considering them. The Arya Organic and HE1000 V2 Stealth specifically because i don't want to spend any more on a pair. The HE1K and Arya Organic were only 150 usd apart but now, just from this week, they're 350 usd apart, kinda making the HE1K a bit of a waste of money, but the metal build and extended warranty is nice. I was thinking of getting a DX3 Pro+ for the Arya and then thought about getting the DX5 II for the HE1K. That would've been my setup.

But then I started researching speakers and just was so fascinated. I mean sound was meant to come naturally to our ears, not in ears like iems nor really like headphones which fire right at our ears. Speakers are the perfect way to experience audio it seems and so I began researching speakers and I think my research has come to an end for now. I am going to list out my planned audio setups below with converted USD pricing but the ones that im thinking about are the KANTO Ora and the Ascilab F6Bs, the smaller size and the lower size are really tempting. And I was thinking of getting a Kanto ORA now and a Neumann KH310A later on but the Ascilab just look phenomenal. They seem to just be giving slightly more linear sound with mostly improvements in dynamic capabilities with the higher end stuff. The C6B being the perfect middle ground. I was thinking of saving up for an R3 Meta cus the Q Concerto Meta seemed a bit wonky comparatively but wow the Ascilab stuff look nearly just as good for far less. Incredible. The only thing about the KEF that would actually pull me to them would be the point source nature, they're tight yet still allow nice leeway. But there's also the design that's phenomenal. Anyways, I think that considering that the Ascilab are there, I don't really need to look at KEF or any other stuff, for now at least ig. So yeah I'm just mostly thinking about Ascilab stuff rn. I was also thinking of Kali Audio stuff, especially the IN-8 V2 but it's quite big and im trying to stay away from actives cus hearing about kef and stuff failing is scary! I was looking at the LSX II LT but the amount of people complaining about the amp failing is not something i can ignore. And the LS50 Meta dimensions aren't too far off from the F6Bs, I can get a full setup with these speakers for less than the passive LS50 Meta. That's what got me really attracted towards them.
I would use a DX3 Pro+ as a DAC, a Fosi ZA3 as an amp and then a minidsp mk-1 to calibrate for my room later on. So yeah there's that. For the price of a pair of Neumann KH120 II I can get a full range setup for myself. That's not a bad deal imo.

So yeah, I'd like some help on what I should go with, is the F6Bs setup im thinking of okay? What would I really gain from going to more expensive stuff from the Kanto ORA apart from dynamic capability/linearity/better distortion characteristics? Is there a special sauce? The Audioholics review showed the Kanto ORA to have very nice dispersion characteristics and the FR was quite nice as well. What would I gain from something like the A6B or R3 Meta if I eq them all and end up using a sub anyways? For the KEF the driver design ought to allow me to sit up and down and give me a more focused yet slightly wider soundstage vertically but what else apart from that and dynamics/distortion?

Additionally, what would you say I should do? Is it alright going for a speaker setup in this shared space or should I go for headphones? I was thinking of covering up the door's bottom part with some damper type thing and then getting a thick mattress/curtain and keep it near the door and then put it in front of it to stop the sound from going out too much or something lol. So yeah what do you guys think and what should i do?

Here's my list and the pricing where I live, converted to USD :

Headphones :

Arya Organic ‑ 892 USD
HE1000 V2 Stealth ‑ 1,256 USD

Topping DX3 Pro+ ‑ 198 USD
Topping DX5 II ‑ 343 USD

Total : 1,089‑1,601 USD



Speakers :

Kanto ORA : 278 USD

Ascilab F6Bs : 733 USD (with duty = 859‑991 USD)
Ascilab F6B : 847 USD
Ascilab C6B : 1,110 USD
KEF LSX II LT : 1,123 USD
KEF LS50 Meta : 1,652 USD
KEF Q Concerto Meta : 1,322 USD

Neumann KH80 : 1,189 USD
Neumann KH120 II : 2,115 USD

Topping DX3 Pro+ : 198 USD
Fosi ZA3 : 132 USD

Wiim Amp Pro : 463 USD
Wiim Amp Ultra : 595 USD

RSL Speedwoofer 10e : 396 USD

Total :
476 USD + sub (ORA)
1,063 USD + sub (F6Bs)
1,440 USD + sub (C6B)

JDS Labs RCA to RCA Cable 1.5m : 20 USD
Minidsp mic umik 1 : 132 USD

+ 330 USD for room proofing

The Ascilab F6B would be a good choice. Compared to the Kanto ORA, its more consistent directivity pattern gives a clearer, more transparent sound. Also, please choose a subwoofer from this list based on the required SPL, frequency range, and price:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...axK69dkXte6ZL6anVTW2_M/htmlview#gid=834598950

 

[Jiraya369]

The Ascilab F6B would be a good choice. Compared to the Kanto ORA, its more consistent directivity pattern gives a clearer, more transparent sound. Also, please choose a subwoofer from this list based on the required SPL, frequency range, and price:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...axK69dkXte6ZL6anVTW2_M/htmlview#gid=834598950

I was thinking of the F6B but i don't have much distance from the walls, just 1-4 inches, won't it be too boomy? Wouldn't the F6Bs be better then? I was thinking of the F6Bs as the sealed enclosure (and the far smaller size!) felt like it would be more beneficial near the wall AND on my desk. What do you think?


Also, I was thinking of the RSL Speedwoofer 10e, based on the numbers from Audioholics. I don't see anything around this price point really being better and i wouldn't need any more output. The key thing is looking for a cheap enough sub that i can supplement a second sample with.
The spreadsheet you sent just compiles data from Erin, Audioholics and a few others. The best thing about Audioholics's reviews is that I can see the distortion and group delay as well which is what made me be ok with the Speedwoofer 10e, it's good in all aspects but size as it is bigger than sealed enclosures but those have worse output so there's trade-offs to everything.

I was thinking of buying the speakers first and then supplementing them with subs later on as I would just like to get started. with some sounds and i have iems for bass needs if needed. And since I live in a shared space it's best to first fix the problems arising from playing speakers without a sub first. Then I can get a sub and play around with placement and stuff when i have lowered the leaked sound

 

[kawauso]

I was thinking of the F6B but i don't have much distance from the walls, just 1-4 inches, won't it be too boomy? Wouldn't the F6Bs be better then? I was thinking of the F6Bs as the sealed enclosure (and the far smaller size!) felt like it would be more beneficial near the wall AND on my desk. What do you think?


Also, I was thinking of the RSL Speedwoofer 10e, based on the numbers from Audioholics. I don't see anything around this price point really being better and i wouldn't need any more output. The key thing is looking for a cheap enough sub that i can supplement a second sample with.
The spreadsheet you sent just compiles data from Erin, Audioholics and a few others. The best thing about Audioholics's reviews is that I can see the distortion and group delay as well which is what made me be ok with the Speedwoofer 10e, it's good in all aspects but size as it is bigger than sealed enclosures but those have worse output so there's trade-offs to everything.

I was thinking of buying the speakers first and then supplementing them with subs later on as I would just like to get started. with some sounds and i have iems for bass needs if needed. And since I live in a shared space it's best to first fix the problems arising from playing speakers without a sub first. Then I can get a sub and play around with placement and stuff when i have lowered the leaked sound

Then the F6Bs would be perfectly fine. Since you can always adjust with EQ, the F6B would also work without any issue.
If space is the priority, go with the F6Bs. But if you’d like to have a bit more headroom in case your room changes in the future, the F6B is the better choice.

Even if you plan to use a subwoofer, the extra headroom from a ported design is still useful.
You don’t need to worry about group delay for subwoofers—CEA-2010 SPL performance is what really matters.

The RSL Speedwoofer 10e should be absolutely fine.

 

[Jiraya369]

Then the F6Bs would be perfectly fine. Since you can always adjust with EQ, the F6B would also work without any issue.
If space is the priority, go with the F6Bs. But if you’d like to have a bit more headroom in case your room changes in the future, the F6B is the better choice.

Even if you plan to use a subwoofer, the extra headroom from a ported design is still useful.
You don’t need to worry about group delay for subwoofers—CEA-2010 SPL performance is what really matters.

The RSL Speedwoofer 10e should be absolutely fine.

If i went for a ported design i wouldn't go for the F6B, I'd rather save up for the C6B and buy it later. The main reason for the F6Bs is the smaller enclosure, it'll fit perfectly on my desk. The passive ones have 4 inch deeper designs, which means they'll be even closer to the wall. What do you think that'll do to the sound? Will it be too bad?? If yes then I'll stick with F6Bs + sub

And hmm noted! I look at the CEA 2010 and distortion both to get an idea of how it all is and that's why i LOVE audioholics!

yeah it seems my research was right on the money

Thank you for the answers my friend!

 

[kawauso]

If i went for a ported design i wouldn't go for the F6B, I'd rather save up for the C6B and buy it later. The main reason for the F6Bs is the smaller enclosure, it'll fit perfectly on my desk. The passive ones have 4 inch deeper designs, which means they'll be even closer to the wall. What do you think that'll do to the sound? Will it be too bad?? If yes then I'll stick with F6Bs + sub

And hmm noted! I look at the CEA 2010 and distortion both to get an idea of how it all is and that's why i LOVE audioholics!

yeah it seems my research was right on the money

Thank you for the answers my friend!

There’s no problem placing the C6B close to the wall — leaving about 5 cm of space is enough for the bass-reflex port to function properly.

Monitor Placement - Genelec.com

To create the ideal listening experience, several aspects need to be taken into account when placing the monitors within the listening space. First, you need to identify the listening area within the space and consider where the listener will be placed in relation to the space as well as the...

www.genelec.com

If you want a speaker that fits perfectly on your desk, the F6Bs might be the better option.
In terms of sound quality, unless you’re playing at very high volumes or running without a subwoofer, the difference between them will be minimal.

I also looked into the Kanto ORA, and it seems to be an excellent speaker.
The treble is slightly emphasized, but a small high-shelf EQ cut should make the balance ideal.
Its directivity varies a little between 1 kHz – 3 kHz, but overall performance is very good.

By contrast, the AsciLab models have smoother beam-width transitions and an almost perfect frequency response even without EQ.
From around 1 kHz, the beam control becomes very natural, giving vocals a smooth and pleasant tone.
Honestly, this is high-end-class sound quality — highly recommended.

 

[Jiraya369]

There’s no problem placing the C6B close to the wall — leaving about 5 cm of space is enough for the bass-reflex port to function properly.

Monitor Placement - Genelec.com

To create the ideal listening experience, several aspects need to be taken into account when placing the monitors within the listening space. First, you need to identify the listening area within the space and consider where the listener will be placed in relation to the space as well as the...

www.genelec.com

If you want a speaker that fits perfectly on your desk, the F6Bs might be the better option.
In terms of sound quality, unless you’re playing at very high volumes or running without a subwoofer, the difference between them will be minimal.

I also looked into the Kanto ORA, and it seems to be an excellent speaker.
The treble is slightly emphasized, but a small high-shelf EQ cut should make the balance ideal.
Its directivity varies a little between 1 kHz – 3 kHz, but overall performance is very good.

By contrast, the AsciLab models have smoother beam-width transitions and an almost perfect frequency response even without EQ.
From around 1 kHz, the beam control becomes very natural, giving vocals a smooth and pleasant tone.
Honestly, this is high-end-class sound quality — highly recommended.

View attachment 487168

omg thanks for that awesome genelec link! Amazing stuff there! Ascilab themselves have said the passive radiators need 3cm at least away from the wall to perform properly. And since i have more than that, ig it'll work? And at least to my eyes, the C6B seem to be more linear, less peaks and stuff and the lower bass will also be appreciated as I will not have a sub in the beginning. So it seems if i get a sub, the F6Bs makes sense, if not then the C6B will work well but I'd also need more desk space.

And yeah! It seems my research on the Kanto ORA was fine as well. I looked at the radiation patterns and it was quite smooth for the most part and constant as well, resulting in the accurate imaging that everyone talked about. But the Ascilab stuff just nuke everything else it seems if one is not specifically looking for extremely wide sounds. My room isn't big so it's a huge plus.

Thanks for the answers, I'll see what I can do. All the Ascilab stuff are out of stock anyways so I get more time to save up lol. The price difference between the C6B and F6Bs where I live is smaller than the cost of a cheap, good subwoofer like the Speedwoofer 10e. F3 is at 55hz and that might be good enough for me

I'm going to listen at max to 90 db. Any more and I'm going to fry my ears and get myself kicked out i think lol

 

[kawauso]

omg thanks for that awesome genelec link! Amazing stuff there! Ascilab themselves have said the passive radiators need 3cm at least away from the wall to perform properly. And since i have more than that, ig it'll work? And at least to my eyes, the C6B seem to be more linear, less peaks and stuff and the lower bass will also be appreciated as I will not have a sub in the beginning. So it seems if i get a sub, the F6Bs makes sense, if not then the C6B will work well but I'd also need more desk space.

And yeah! It seems my research on the Kanto ORA was fine as well. I looked at the radiation patterns and it was quite smooth for the most part and constant as well, resulting in the accurate imaging that everyone talked about. But the Ascilab stuff just nuke everything else it seems if one is not specifically looking for extremely wide sounds. My room isn't big so it's a huge plus.

Thanks for the answers, I'll see what I can do. All the Ascilab stuff are out of stock anyways so I get more time to save up lol. The price difference between the C6B and F6Bs where I live is smaller than the cost of a cheap, good subwoofer like the Speedwoofer 10e. F3 is at 55hz and that might be good enough for me

I'm going to listen at max to 90 db. Any more and I'm going to fry my ears and get myself kicked out i think lol

In a desktop audio setup, the AsciLab will likely take the lead over the Kanto, thanks to its superior vertical directivity.
I also like the sound of the Q Concerto Meta, but the AsciLab is probably the better choice.

When overlaying the graphs of the AsciLab and KEF Reference 1 Meta, they look very similar.
There are small differences in the detailed dispersion pattern, but the overall tonal balance seems quite close.
By the way, the Reference 1 Meta is a speaker I personally use and enjoy very much.

 

[Jiraya369]

In a desktop audio setup, the AsciLab will likely take the lead over the Kanto, thanks to its superior vertical directivity.
I also like the sound of the Q Concerto Meta, but the AsciLab is probably the better choice.

When overlaying the graphs of the AsciLab and KEF Reference 1 Meta, they look very similar.
There are small differences in the detailed dispersion pattern, but the overall tonal balance seems quite close.
By the way, the Reference 1 Meta is a speaker I personally use and enjoy very much.
View attachment 487170

View attachment 487171

omg i was looking at the Q Concerto Meta before i saw the ascilab stuff! Apart from better vertical directivity due to the point source midwoofer+tweeters, the Ascilab just seemed better to me overall. Far more constant/linear in every way. The Reference 1 Meta were my endgame till I saw the ascilab stuff and now i think i just wouldnt need anything more lol.

That setup is so good it's making me drool lol

I'm wondering, what's the point of the LS50 speakers on top? Atmos duty? And why 3 of each on the top and bottom instead of just a normal center? Btw what subs are those they look beefyyyy

Thank you so much for the answers till now, you've helped me A LOT!!!!

 

[kawauso]

omg i was looking at the Q Concerto Meta before i saw the ascilab stuff! Apart from better vertical directivity due to the point source midwoofer+tweeters, the Ascilab just seemed better to me overall. Far more constant/linear in every way. The Reference 1 Meta were my endgame till I saw the ascilab stuff and now i think i just wouldnt need anything more lol.

That setup is so good it's making me drool lol

I'm wondering, what's the point of the LS50 speakers on top? Atmos duty? And why 3 of each on the top and bottom instead of just a normal center? Btw what subs are those they look beefyyyy

Thank you so much for the answers till now, you've helped me A LOT!!!!

You really don’t need anything beyond the AsciLab — reaching the “correct” speaker choice on your first try shows incredible instinct! Honestly, I envy you for not having to waste money chasing upgrades lol.

This LS50 Meta setup is for the Auro-3D format. The room is configured for both Atmos and Auro-3D playback.

The subwoofers are JTR Captivator 2400s — they’re the best I’ve used. The next best would be the HSU VTF-3 MK5 HP, but once you get used to the JTR’s low end, the HSU starts to feel a bit lacking lol.

 

[Jiraya369]

You really don’t need anything beyond the AsciLab — reaching the “correct” speaker choice on your first try shows incredible instinct! Honestly, I envy you for not having to waste money chasing upgrades lol.

This LS50 Meta setup is for the Auro-3D format. The room is configured for both Atmos and Auro-3D playback.

The subwoofers are JTR Captivator 2400s — they’re the best I’ve used. The next best would be the HSU VTF-3 MK5 HP, but once you get used to the JTR’s low end, the HSU starts to feel a bit lacking lol.

ahaha thank you! I'm a little obsessive with electronic stuff and do loads and loads of research for em cus im really passionate about them. Thankfully I found amir, audioholics and Erin easily, which made researching so much nicer and easier.

And woahh that's sick! Where do you even get content with Auro-3D? All i see is dolby atmos. Honest to God this is the first time i've heard of Auro-3D lol

and holy smokes the JTR Captivator 2400? Are you simulating earthquakes? Curious about what made you choose those though, wouldn't 2 RS1s have gotten nearly as close or something or is the extra 4-6 db actually worh it? Like, what made you choose this monster over a lot of others? Also, damn, i couldn't imagine being your neighbour if you're having to play that loud. Imagine just going through your day normally and you feel a light earthquake and it's just your neighbour's son watching wheels on the bus

 

[kawauso]

ahaha thank you! I'm a little obsessive with electronic stuff and do loads and loads of research for em cus im really passionate about them. Thankfully I found amir, audioholics and Erin easily, which made researching so much nicer and easier.

And woahh that's sick! Where do you even get content with Auro-3D? All i see is dolby atmos. Honest to God this is the first time i've heard of Auro-3D lol

and holy smokes the JTR Captivator 2400? Are you simulating earthquakes? Curious about what made you choose those though, wouldn't 2 RS1s have gotten nearly as close or something or is the extra 4-6 db actually worh it? Like, what made you choose this monster over a lot of others? Also, damn, i couldn't imagine being your neighbour if you're having to play that loud. Imagine just going through your day normally and you feel a light earthquake and it's just your neighbour's son watching wheels on the bus

There’s actually no real Auro-3D content out there lol — I mainly use it for upmixing.
And yeah, the JTR Captivator 2400s — I have four of them, including two at the back, hitting around 120 dB. Basically, yes, small earthquakes on demand lol.

I didn’t add four subs just for extra headroom, but because as I added more, the directional sense of the bass vibrations became more natural and pleasant.
Yesterday I ran some tests in another room with Dirac ART — going from 3 subs down to 1 didn’t change much under ART, but without it the difference was significant.

I’m kind of obsessive, so even when one sub feels “enough,” I somehow end up with four anyway lol.
RS1s would absolutely perform well too, but the 2400s don’t have any real weaknesses, and the price difference isn’t that huge — I didn’t want any regrets.

Becoming kawauso’s neighbor isn’t recommended though lol.
If you ever come to Japan, you’re welcome to visit — I’ve got the KEF room in Hiroshima and the JBL room in Fukushima!

 

[kemmler3D]

F6B or C6B should be great for your purposes. Do some EQ for room modes and you're cruising. If I were doing a new desktop setup they would be on top of my list for sure.

Also I'm assuming you're in the US- when it comes to subs you can often find deals secondhand on Facebook or Craigslist. I'm trying to restrain myself from hunting for upgrades, because I scored 2x BIC F12s for $250 a while back, so I'm not in bad shape for a small room.

I'd be looking for some SVS SB1000s in white just to save a little space and match decor better.

 

[Jiraya369]

There’s actually no real Auro-3D content out there lol — I mainly use it for upmixing.
And yeah, the JTR Captivator 2400s — I have four of them, including two at the back, hitting around 120 dB. Basically, yes, small earthquakes on demand lol.

I didn’t add four subs just for extra headroom, but because as I added more, the directional sense of the bass vibrations became more natural and pleasant.
Yesterday I ran some tests in another room with Dirac ART — going from 3 subs down to 1 didn’t change much under ART, but without it the difference was significant.

I’m kind of obsessive, so even when one sub feels “enough,” I somehow end up with four anyway lol.
RS1s would absolutely perform well too, but the 2400s don’t have any real weaknesses, and the price difference isn’t that huge — I didn’t want any regrets.

Becoming kawauso’s neighbor isn’t recommended though lol.
If you ever come to Japan, you’re welcome to visit — I’ve got the KEF room in Hiroshima and the JBL room in Fukushima!

upmixing with friggin ls50 metas lol must be a treat!

4 2400s......that ain't a bass cannon that's a bass nuke! And wow, adding more subs improves the directional sense as well? Gah dayum! Interesting info here!!

And hahah i relate with you so much on that obsession part! It's the reason why im going for speakers when i'm honestly quite happy with my iems (Moondrop x Crinacle DUSK). Hmm so yeah your 2400 purchase makes sense, your endgame so to speak!

Woah, you're Japanese? So i'm guessing your name is supposed to be a reference to kawaiso or something? And dang, I just got another reason to bump Japan up to the top of my list for holiday trips!!! Meeting up with cool bloke + aural nirvana + i can satisfy my weeb urges of going to Japan lol!!

Was nice talking with you boss, have a lovely day

 

[Jiraya369]

F6B or C6B should be great for your purposes. Do some EQ for room modes and you're cruising. If I were doing a new desktop setup they would be on top of my list for sure.

Also I'm assuming you're in the US- when it comes to subs you can often find deals secondhand on Facebook or Craigslist. I'm trying to restrain myself from hunting for upgrades, because I scored 2x BIC F12s for $250 a while back, so I'm not in bad shape for a small room.

I'd be looking for some SVS SB1000s in white just to save a little space and match decor better.

I'm sorry I'm not in the US, i converted all prices to USD to make it easier for people to understand. And yeah I can find second hand deals where I live but most of the stuff is either going to be cheap/horrible in quality that people don't want and are selling or some esoteric high end stuff. I live in a less crowded area of my country so yeah... lol

Idk if I will get too much use out of the sub as I think I'll have to high pass till 70hz anyways because yk, I don't wanna bother others. I'll see what I can do about that....

 

[kawauso]

upmixing with friggin ls50 metas lol must be a treat!

4 2400s......that ain't a bass cannon that's a bass nuke! And wow, adding more subs improves the directional sense as well? Gah dayum! Interesting info here!!

And hahah i relate with you so much on that obsession part! It's the reason why im going for speakers when i'm honestly quite happy with my iems (Moondrop x Crinacle DUSK). Hmm so yeah your 2400 purchase makes sense, your endgame so to speak!

Woah, you're Japanese? So i'm guessing your name is supposed to be a reference to kawaiso or something? And dang, I just got another reason to bump Japan up to the top of my list for holiday trips!!! Meeting up with cool bloke + aural nirvana + i can satisfy my weeb urges of going to Japan lol!!

Was nice talking with you boss, have a lovely day

Kawauso means otter! The plushie sitting on top of the sub looks like a bear, but it’s actually an otter lol.
In my bedroom I’m using a small sealed sub—just a Dayton UM12-22 in a 30-liter box. It performs surprisingly well (I just measured it and added the graph).
It’s pretty affordable, and while building it takes a bit of effort, it’s still a fairly easy project overall. The resale value is low though, so I’m not sure it’s really “cost-effective” in the end.

 

[Jiraya369]

Kawauso means otter! The plushie sitting on top of the sub looks like a bear, but it’s actually an otter lol.
In my bedroom I’m using a small sealed sub—just a Dayton UM12-22 in a 30-liter box. It performs surprisingly well (I just measured it and added the graph).
It’s pretty affordable, but the resale value is low and building it takes quite a bit of work, so I’m not sure it’s really “cost-effective” in the end.
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omg that little guy looks so cute

 

[kemmler3D]

I'll have to high pass till 70hz anyways because yk, I don't wanna bother others. I'll see what I can do about that..

In that case no sub is needed. But if you decide to explore the bottom octave I think it's possible without making enemies.

I've used subs for years with roommates and close neighbors, my solution is basically to turn them off after dark. No complaints so far.

 

[Jiraya369]

In that case no sub is needed. But if you decide to explore the bottom octave I think it's possible without making enemies.

I've used subs for years with roommates and close neighbors, my solution is basically to turn them off after dark. No complaints so far.

I mean i CAN do it but even normal speaker sound is going to go out. I have a wooden door and wooden floor, so im sure sound is going to travel out a lot. I'm going to cover the bottom of the door with one of those flaps, idk what else I can really do to stop sound from leaking out but I'll try.

If normal speaker sounds go out like that then i wonder how bad a sub will be!!!

 

[kemmler3D]

If normal speaker sounds go out like that then i wonder how bad a sub will be!!!

Well, yes typically it's much worse with lower bass. But the goal is not to always listen quietly or with no bass, it's to avoid pissing off other people. Using good judgement on when to play speakers and how loud will always be important with other people in your living situation, forgoing subs is actually not the most important factor. As long as you are considerate you can have whatever kind of speaker you want.