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Help replacing broken amplifier

A.T.E.

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Hi,

One of the channels of my integrated amplifier, a NAD 310, stopped working.
As it is a cheap device bought in the mid nineties, it is not worth to pay for a reparation, so I understand that I need to purchase a new amplifier.
I have literally zero expertise skills on how to choose an amplifier according to its specs, so I am approaching the people in this forum hoping for some good advice.

This is my hifi setup, in my sitting room:

Source: a Raspberry Pi with a Hifiberry DAC, that has a RCA stereo output. I don’t have any other device: I have ripped all my CDs to FLAC files; I don’t have a CD player or a radio tuner anymore.

Amplifier: NAD 310. Specifications:
Power output: 20 watts per channel into 8Ω (stereo)
Frequency response: 20Hz to 20kHz
Total harmonic distortion: 0.05%
Damping factor: 100
Input sensitivity: 210mV (line)
Signal to noise ratio: 106dB (line)

Loudspeakers: KEF IQ50. Specifications:
System type 2.5-way
Enclosure type Bass-reflex
Frequency response ± 3dB 40 - 40000 Hz
Nominal impedance 8 Ohm
Amplifier Requirements 15 - 130 W
Sensitivity (2.83V/1m) 88 dB
Maximum output (SPL) 109 dB
Midrange 130 mm (5 in.)
Woofer 130 mm (5 in.)

My future amplifier shall have:
  • One analog RCA input
  • Quality: there shall not be any audible "hiss" when it is switched on; so a basic good quality
  • A volume knob (which shall not make electrical noises when it is turned)
  • Match with my loudspeakers: powerful enough for a sitting room, in an apartment with neighbours (so, no need for a very high volume; by the way: the NAD310, in spite of the 20 Watt per channel, is powerful enough to make me keep the volume knob pretty much down), and it should not distort if I occasionally play the music louder
Then, if it also has extra features, like a remote control, Bluetooth, or the possibility to use it as the equivalent of a soundbar for my TV, these would be nice pluses. Another nice plus would be a reduced size (I.e.: not anymore the classical 43.5 cm large).

I see that nowadays there are new types of amplifiers (class D) made by unknown asian producers: are these devices comparable to my current amplifier or are they of a lower category? As I don’t know anybody that owns them, nor I know any hifi shop that sells them…
I have considered buying the NAD D3020, to stay on the safe side (as it is the same brand I already have): would it be a good fit for my loudspeakers? It costs 3-4 times the price of the above mentioned class D amplifiers: is that price difference justified by a corresponding better quality of the product?
Otherwise, would, for example, an amplifier like this be a good fit for my needs?
 
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DanielT

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Hello new member! Welcome. :)

Budget? New or used?

Here you can get an indication of how much power you need:


Here you can search among tested amplifiers:


Edit:
Advantage class D (generally): Small and flexible (due to high efficiency).
Disadvantage (an ongoing discussion) possible, observe possible, audible distortion at the highest frequencies. Depends on the manufacturer / model. It is also often possible to read if this is the case via Amir's tests of class D amplifiers.:)
(plus how old are those who will listen. Ability to hear higher frequencies decreases with age)
Incidentally, many of the best "high end" amplifiers are class D based so you can not pull them all "over one and the same comb".:)

Personality regarding functionality, I had on the wish list added sub out. Of course later connected a subwoofer, but that is my liking and taste.Subwoofer may not be relevant for you because you wrote:..."in an apartment with neighbors (so, no need for a very high volume..."

Your Kef speakers (is that the model in the attached picture?) seem to be able to pump bass per se.:)

How big is your listening room?
 

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DSJR

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I hate the idea of basically junking an old but still worthy little amp (or car for that matter as we had to not long ago), but I daresay it'd cost far more than its worth to repair it.

Check for something simple first, such as blown fuses first though - internally with power disconnected of course.
 

Barry_Sound

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My future amplifier shall have:
  • One analog RCA input
  • Quality: there shall not be any audible "hiss" when it is switched on; so a basic good quality
  • A volume knob (which shall not make electrical noises when it is turned)
  • Match with my loudspeakers: powerful enough for a sitting room, in an apartment with neighbours (so, no need for a very high volume; by the way: the NAD310, in spite of the 20 Watt per channel, is powerful enough to make me keep the volume knob pretty much down), and it should not distort if I occasionally play the music louder

NAD C 316BEE V2 maybe for a budget amp? Comes with a remote and is a classic analog amp without digital inputs.
Onkyo had some decent entry level amps that were superb (A-9010 and similar) but it seems they are all gone.

eBay UK item: 194771214734 (not affiliated, dont know the seller)
 
OP
A

A.T.E.

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Hello new member! Welcome. :)

Budget? New or used?

Here you can get an indication of how much power you need:


Here you can search among tested amplifiers:


Edit:
Advantage class D (generally): Small and flexible (due to high efficiency).
Disadvantage (an ongoing discussion) possible, observe possible, audible distortion at the highest frequencies. Depends on the manufacturer / model. It is also often possible to read if this is the case via Amir's tests of class D amplifiers.:)
(plus how old are those who will listen. Ability to hear higher frequencies decreases with age)
Incidentally, many of the best "high end" amplifiers are class D based so you can not pull them all "over one and the same comb".:)

Personality regarding functionality, I had on the wish list added sub out. Of course later connected a subwoofer, but that is my liking and taste.Subwoofer may not be relevant for you because you wrote:..."in an apartment with neighbors (so, no need for a very high volume..."

Your Kef speakers (is that the model in the attached picture?) seem to be able to pump bass per se.:)

How big is your listening room?
Budget: 100-300 EUR, but I don't know what is necessary nowadays to get an equivalent in sound quality of my NAD 310. And, if necessary, I can spend more. For example, the NAD D3020 costs around 500 EUR. I am also willing to buy second hand, if I find something in my area (western Switzerland).
To wrap it up, my hifi system is made of the KEF IQ50 (yes, the ones of your picture - they pump basses, but not a lot: they are floorstanding, but they are considered similar to bookshelf), which were worth some 600 EUR, the Raspberry Pi-based player is worth, all components included, some 120 EUR, and an amplifier, whose nowaday NAD equivalent (316 BEE) is around 450 EUR. I am happy with it, I like the sweet tonality of the KEF IQ50 (I am not into things like subwoofers or more punchy speakers), and I am aware that it can be summarized as an entry level of an hifi system. So the next amplifier should be in the range: not a ****** product whose purchase I will regret, but also not something too above.
The listening room is around 50 square metres, ceiling at 2.5 metres.
Thanks for the power calculator, but I am missing one parameter. The louspeakers specs read: "Sensitivity (2.83V/1m) 88 dB", while the calculator asks "Loudspeaker sensitivity rating (at 1 Watt at 1 meter)". What should I put?
 
OP
A

A.T.E.

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I hate the idea of basically junking an old but still worthy little amp (or car for that matter as we had to not long ago), but I daresay it'd cost far more than its worth to repair it.

Check for something simple first, such as blown fuses first though - internally with power disconnected of course.
Unfortunately, I don't have skills in electronics, so I cannot fix it. But I agree with you that it is a pity to throw it away. So I am willing to give it for free to someone who can fix it.
 

DanielT

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Unfortunately, I don't have skills in electronics, so I cannot fix it. But I agree with you that it is a pity to throw it away. So I am willing to give it for free to someone who can fix it.
Do you have no friend who can check the fuses? But note, see attached photos.
Replace and service it. Especially if you are going to submit it. Hardly worth it. Professional repairers charge by the hour.

Sell it as a spare part machine. Maybe someone will enjoy it.:)

Attached image, the sensitivity of your speakers, 2.5 meters listening distance, 75 dB listening volume with good headroom (dynamic music) so it will be:

Download an dBmeter app (available for free). Measure how many dB you have when listening to music.

Edit:
The NAD D3020 is probably good. I do not know about it. Normally sensible amplifiers, with enough clean watts you will hear no difference between them. Put a sensible penny on, for example, a large thick mat in front of the speakers. There is a better potential to get better sound that way.:)
 

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OP
A

A.T.E.

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NAD C 316BEE V2 maybe for a budget amp? Comes with a remote and is a classic analog amp without digital inputs.
Onkyo had some decent entry level amps that were superb (A-9010 and similar) but it seems they are all gone.

eBay UK item: 194771214734 (not affiliated, dont know the seller)
Thanks for the advice. These are "classic" amplifiers. Does this advice imply that it is better if I stay away from these class D chinese amplifiers such as SMSL, Fosi, FX-Audio, Audiophonics, Topping, Tinysine, Loxjie?
It is not only a matter pf price: currently we have this furniture, and my wife wanted to replace it with something better. So, I wanted to move out of the classic 43.5 cm rack-wide units (there are less and less furnitures shaped for that), which is one of the reasons why I am considering the above-mentioned class D amps (or the NAD D3020).
 

Willem

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The best value for money integrated amplifiers in the European market are the Yamaha AS301/501/701/801 series. Unfortunately they are not very small. Sadly, as with a lot of gear, they have become a lot more expensive over the last year, and are also unavailable in some shops. But they measure very well and have all the necessary facilities, including digital inputs. If you are into streaming and want something completely unobtrusive, there is the more expensive Sonos Amp that can be put out of sight.
 

DanielT

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Used, there are many good ones that would work for you. This for example.


Speaking of NAD3020 here is the father, or grandfather + pros and cons of older amplifiers addressed in this thread::)
(plus some talk about low powerd vintage Harman Kardon receivers in that thread)

 
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Barry_Sound

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Thanks for the advice. These are "classic" amplifiers. Does this advice imply that it is better if I stay away from these class D chinese amplifiers such as SMSL, Fosi, FX-Audio, Audiophonics, Topping, Tinysine, Loxjie?
It is not only a matter pf price: currently we have this furniture, and my wife wanted to replace it with something better. So, I wanted to move out of the classic 43.5 cm rack-wide units (there are less and less furnitures shaped for that), which is one of the reasons why I am considering the above-mentioned class D amps (or the NAD D3020).
Probably a matter of taste and whatever your idea of hifi is. I´d stick to whatever worked nicely for the last 50 years. ;)
 

Joe Smith

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For a budget solution, having tried many small chip/class D amps, I give high praise to the Aiyima A07, which costs about $80 at present with power supply. The standard 32v/5a switching power supply they sell with it is fine for good volume (some on here really push for the higher power supplies, but I think pushing the amp to those very high levels is not ideal, nor needed for normal-sized listening spaces). But it is bare bones, no remote or Bluetooth. In my dining room setup, where I want multiple inputs, I use a simple A/V switcher (about $12) so I can switch from a Bluetooth receiver/CD deck/Tape deck as needed without replugging each time.

I am a NAD fan, and love the look of the 3020D, but tend to shy away from "many things packed into a small case for a fairly high price." If you like the NAD look, that current model C316BEE would work well for you, or going the one click up to one of their models that incorporates streaming capability.
 

ZolaIII

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@A.T.E. 2.83V @ 8 Ohm's = 1W
I know this is a bit on the other side but try to find little used Yamaha R-N402D for some 250€ (I did). It's old school big class AB 100W @8 Ohm's power amplifier with streamer DAB and FM tuner with 4 analog inputs and Toslink.
 

DanielT

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For a budget solution, having tried many small chip/class D amps, I give high praise to the Aiyima A07, which costs about $80 at present with power supply. The standard 32v/5a switching power supply they sell with it is fine for good volume (some on here really push for the higher power supplies, but I think pushing the amp to those very high levels is not ideal, nor needed for normal-sized listening spaces). But it is bare bones, no remote or Bluetooth. In my dining room setup, where I want multiple inputs, I use a simple A/V switcher (about $12) so I can switch from a Bluetooth receiver/CD deck/Tape deck as needed without replugging each time.

I am a NAD fan, and love the look of the 3020D, but tend to shy away from "many things packed into a small case for a fairly high price." If you like the NAD look, that current model C316BEE would work well for you, or going the one click up to one of their models that incorporates streaming capability.
That is the lack of remote control. Otherwise this has been praised at ASR. If there is enough power for your needs, it is a good amp. Who knows if Topping or Aiyima will come with models that include remote control.

Although it is so small that you can have it next to the sofa. Then no remote control is needed.:)


Some tips:


But look here at ASR on the amplifiers Amir tested. I would have done that in the first place.:)
 
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LTig

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Do you have no friend who can check the fuses? But note, see attached photos.
I read in your pics that one cause for a blown fuse is that the output transmitters are blown, and that one channel is more likely to fail due to worse cooling.

If this is true for the OP's amp then my advice is to look for a beefier amp - he might have blown it by playing louder than his amp can safely handle. Since the broken amp is 20W I recommend minimum 80 to 100W. His speakers can handle it (and much more), and although they are quite sensitive the room is big.
 
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I read in your pics that one cause for a blown fuse is that the output transmitters are blown, and that one channel is more likely to fail due to worse cooling.

If this is true for the OP's amp then my advice is to look for a beefier amp - he might have blown it by playing louder than his amp can safely handle. Since the broken amp is 20W I recommend minimum 80 to 100W. His speakers can handle it (and much more), and although they are quite sensitive the room is big.
Actually, in my case it is the right channel that failed. And it is still occasionally working.
Also, it is not possible that I played it too loud, as I kept it pretty low (the knob usually at 9 nine hours, more or less, occasionally at 10). I think that it failed because it is a 26+ years old device.
 

DSJR

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PLEASE don't equate the position of the volume knob as indication - it's a level matching device, nothing more. Can I try to crudely explain (and apologies for 'granny sucking eggs' here).

The NAD has a very sensitive input for the full power out anbd that means a full output digital source at 2V or so will mean that for 'normal' volumes, the control WILL be at nine or ten o'clock if it's not to be deafening or overloading. Now switch to a 1970's domestic line source such as a vintage tuner or cassette deck (spit). These sources have much lower outputs generally, so for the same perceived 'loudness level,' the volume knob would be set to nigh on half way up I reckon. Hope that abbreviated explanation helps.

I'd suggest your amp isn't hugely faulty if one channel is intermittant and the offer to gift it to an enterprising soul to try to fix is incredibly generous :) The larger NADs such as the 320 BEE tested well here can be bargains and I don't believe they were tetchy or potentially unreliable designs. Would still be worth getting a techie to check for dry joints (unlikely for these to have failing caps at twenty years old but different usage and different climates away from temperate UK conditions will also play a part here). The choice for GOOD vintage amps is huge if you know what you're looking for. Got to say if on a tight budget (as I am these days), in addition to the Ayima type chip amp, have a look at the Yamaha current range ancestors (596 and I think 396 for example). I believe the basic 'floor pan amplifier circuits' are basically the same and only differing in front panel and rear panel/input circuit boards (Restorer John and others here will know for certain). Built to last several lifetimes, one of these may well be under $/£100 still and they may not climb much because the current range is still well priced (the 500/700 previous generation may be worth a look too for reasons just given).

And here's me - Several months ago I'd have recommended the Rega Io for low cost and the Brio R for a bit more power and generally good reliability and service - oh the shame :D
 

JSmith

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My future amplifier
Sounds like you want/need a decent integrated amp with analogue inputs... your current broken amp is pretty low on the power considering your speakers can take more, these will have a bit more on tap and provide you with analogue/digital inputs, remote/volume etc.;



Otherwise if you want separates, get a power amp (Hypex/Purifi) and a pre-amp for the analogue inputs.


JSmith
 
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A

A.T.E.

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PLEASE don't equate the position of the volume knob as indication - it's a level matching device, nothing more. Can I try to crudely explain (and apologies for 'granny sucking eggs' here).

The NAD has a very sensitive input for the full power out anbd that means a full output digital source at 2V or so will mean that for 'normal' volumes, the control WILL be at nine or ten o'clock if it's not to be deafening or overloading. Now switch to a 1970's domestic line source such as a vintage tuner or cassette deck (spit). These sources have much lower outputs generally, so for the same perceived 'loudness level,' the volume knob would be set to nigh on half way up I reckon. Hope that abbreviated explanation helps.

I'd suggest your amp isn't hugely faulty if one channel is intermittant and the offer to gift it to an enterprising soul to try to fix is incredibly generous :) The larger NADs such as the 320 BEE tested well here can be bargains and I don't believe they were tetchy or potentially unreliable designs. Would still be worth getting a techie to check for dry joints (unlikely for these to have failing caps at twenty years old but different usage and different climates away from temperate UK conditions will also play a part here). The choice for GOOD vintage amps is huge if you know what you're looking for. Got to say if on a tight budget (as I am these days), in addition to the Ayima type chip amp, have a look at the Yamaha current range ancestors (596 and I think 396 for example). I believe the basic 'floor pan amplifier circuits' are basically the same and only differing in front panel and rear panel/input circuit boards (Restorer John and others here will know for certain). Built to last several lifetimes, one of these may well be under $/£100 still and they may not climb much because the current range is still well priced (the 500/700 previous generation may be worth a look too for reasons just given).

And here's me - Several months ago I'd have recommended the Rega Io for low cost and the Brio R for a bit more power and generally good reliability and service - oh the shame :D
There is something that I don't understand here: if I would plug in a cassette deck that has a lower output, then I would turn the volume knob up to get the same amount of decibels. Result: either I would increase the burden on the amplifier, either it would be the same (I can't tell which one of the two); in any case I guess it would not be less. So, I don't understand how it is possible that the channel failure has been caused by playing louder than it can safely handle.
I have used a dBmeter app, and the average volume is around 45 dB. I have put a hand on the amplifier, and it is normally warm on the top left part where the surface has holes, while it is not warm on the right side.

More: a friend suggested me to try to keep it switched on for a couple of days, which I did during the week-end, and after that the right channel has started working again. More: I also realized that lately the amplifier was not making that "pop" noise when switching it on; now it does it again. Another thing that I have done is to pass the vacuum cleaner on the holes, just in case some dust had accumulated over the years.
Obviously, even if it will keep working over the next days/weeks, the recent amp failure is a warning that it might fail again anytime. So, I will keep reading this forum to be prepared for my next amp purchase.
Thanks to everyone who replied!
 

DanielT

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I have used a dBmeter app, and the average volume is around 45 dB.
How far from the speaker did you measure? If you measure with the dB app in the room without anything on how much does it show then? That is, how quiet is your room? Let it measure for 5 minutes, check the average value. No one in the room when you test this.

Edit:
Do you have the opportunity to remove the lid? I see that there is a screw on the back, I do not know how many more screws there are. Of course not plugged into a wall socket then. It should not have been switched on for a while before you do so. In any case, you can then more easily access the dust that is in it. If you feel like it.:)
Although it probably needs to be repaired, so it will not help you to do so. It is not worth submitting to a professional repairer, who charges per hour. Sell it as a spare part machine.

Anyway. If you do so (just for fun), take some pictures of it. Always fun to watch.:)
 

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