Help on a battery replacement

[CtheArgie]

I need to replace two battery packs in a phone preamp battery supply. They are dead and I want to replace them before selling it.

These are the connectors. Can someone tell me what connector type this is so I can order the correct replacement?

Thanks, and sorry for the silly question.

 

[kyuu]

It's not just the connector, but also the form factor, voltage, and current ratings of the battery that matter. Does the manufacturer not sell replacement batteries, or provide specifications for suitable replacements? Do you have the old batteries? If so, pictures would be helpful. Particularly of any specifications or part numbers.

 

[CtheArgie]

It's not just the connector, but also the form factor, voltage, and current ratings of the battery that matter. Does the manufacturer not sell replacement batteries, or provide specifications for suitable replacements? Do you have the old batteries? If so, pictures would be helpful. Particularly of any specifications or part numbers.

It’s a 9.6v 2000 mah. Those batteries are $30 more or less on Amazon and $200 by the manufacturer. See my issue?

Thanks!

 

[DVDdoug]

Here you go. We use them where I work.

They are insulation-displacement so you're supposed to use a special (too expensive) tool. There is manual "push-in" tool but you'll have to research that through the datasheet. But the manual tool doesn't work that well so you can just try a screwdriver.

 

[ivayvr]

The easiest solution would be to cut the wires as close to the battery pack as possible while observing the polarity and re-solder them to the new battery pack.
Pre-tinning both the wire ends and the batteries should make the operation fairly easy. Based on the voltage and capacity, they are probably 8 cell NiMh or NiCd.
("Pri tinning," or pre-tinning, is a process of coating metal surfaces or components with a thin layer of tin to improve their solderability, facilitate soldering, prevent corrosion, and ensure better conductivity.)

 

[mhardy6647]

The easiest solution would be to cut the wires as close to the battery pack as possible while observing the polarity and re-solder them to the new battery pack.

Absolutely! Just make absolutely sure that the polarity is correct.
There may well be a diode on the input side of the actual device to protect against inverted polarity... but, then again, there may well not be.

 

[CtheArgie]

I went out on a bike ride and figured out the cutting the wires option. Because they are black and red, like the ones in the replacement batteries, it’s easy.

But must insider? Or use liquid tape? Electric tape?

 

[kyuu]

But must insider? Or use liquid tape? Electric tape?

What?

Assuming you're asking about making the wire connection, personally I would skip the solder and use butt splices or fast-ons (with a proper crimping tool). It rarely hurts to wrap it up with some electrical tape after.

 

[CtheArgie]

Sorry for the weird autocorrect. I meant to say must I solder. I guess the answer is no.

Thanks everyone!

 

[MCH]

If you are going to sell it and you are not sure.... maybe better to sell it as is and explain the buyer they need to change the batteries.

 

[CtheArgie]

If you are going to sell it and you are not sure.... maybe better to sell it as is and explain the buyer they need to change the batteries.

This is one strategy, but then they will need to buy it for $200. If I change it, I can say new batteries, a $200 value.

It gives me some pricing flexibility.

 

[mhardy6647]

What?

Assuming you're asking about making the wire connection, personally I would skip the solder and use butt splices or fast-ons (with a proper crimping tool). It rarely hurts to wrap it up with some electrical tape after.

Electric tape and/or heatshrink tubing. I have... shall we say?... mixed success getting really neat results with electrical tape, even when I use the good stuff (Scotch 33+)!

 

[CtheArgie]

@mhardy6647 , I relate to your post….

 

[mhardy6647]

@mhardy6647 , I relate to your post….

I mean... I -- in theory -- know how to use it properly (i.e., to stretch it while applying) and in some applications I can do a nice job -- but for taping wire splices I usually have trouble with one or both ends loosening up.

I have become a big fan of heat shrink tubing over the past couple of decades. Probably doesn't have the insulating prowess of vinyl electrical tape, but it's close enough for Government work in many cases, plus it can just be applied over top of a messy electrical taping to make things at least look a bit neater.

 

[CtheArgie]

There is the old joke between potential and reality, but it is too mysoginistic these days.

Thus, I can potentially do a good job too. In reality, we shall see.

 

[kyuu]

The thing I like about tape is that you can put it on after the splice is done. Ive ended up looking down at a piece of heat shrink tubing sitting on my table after finishing a splice more times than I'd care to admit. Heat shrink does look nicer though.

 

[mhardy6647]

There is the old joke between potential and reality, but it is too [misogynistic] these days.

Thus, I can potentially do a good job too. In reality, we shall see.

Not quite sure to what you refer, but your comment rather brings this to mind: