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Help needed amplifiers for Blade Meta 2

Nothing wrong with that. Probably even cheaper as you can forget about the appearance of the amps and go with the tiny winy half-rack D class amps that put out 500W of undistorted watts while looking like and weighting like a little toy boxes. That is both encouraging and discomforting, depending on perspective.
I prefer to eliminate distractions. As I progressed from LP to CD to file playback, it was increasingly agreeable have "fewer moving parts" and to disassociate the music from the hardware. All non-audible sensory input will inevitably bias one's assessment and appreciation of the sound.
 
I was also told here that Kefs are difficult to drive speakers and they not only need enough watts to 4 Ohms but also have to be able to sustain it down to 2 and 1.2 Ohms which my NAD is not capable of doing (NuVista is).

We'll see, I'm waiting for Boxem monoblocks.
 
I would always choose fine engineering, as to longevity, we have had as many expensive electronic products fail as inexpensive ones.
Keith
Sorry for the OT but does “we” mean your business? I guess you might be in a better position than most of us as you’d deal with far more gear than we do (at least most of us anyway!).
I suppose the devil is in the detail. Other than bespoke hand made stuff (which I guess you don’t sell) I would not have expected expensive stuff to fail at the same rate. Thanks for the info!
 
Sorry for the OT but does “we” mean your business? I guess you might be in a better position than most of us as you’d deal with far more gear than we do (at least most of us anyway!).
I suppose the devil is in the detail. Other than bespoke hand made stuff (which I guess you don’t sell) I would not have expected expensive stuff to fail at the same rate. Thanks for the info!
As of his origin, I guess he's talking about British stuff, not exactly kings of thermals (think small Naim :facepalm: )
Certain Nad on the other hand have probably introduced generations to decent sound (and I mean the same device from hand to hand, pretty much as Yamaha but at a tiny scale)
 
I prefer to eliminate distractions. As I progressed from LP to CD to file playback, it was increasingly agreeable have "fewer moving parts" and to disassociate the music from the hardware. All non-audible sensory input will inevitably bias one's assessment and appreciation of the sound.
Well this would be my quote. Signal to AV10 with ART and straight out to amps. From what I understand, your signal path is full of distractions in pursuit of even greater excellence? IMO amps are the least of distractions as they don't actually do much more then amplify, and yes distort some while doing so.
 
If anyone here has ever heard distortion from a speaker caused by the amplifier, please let me know.
With the AVR-A1H driving the Reference 1 Meta, it took an extremely high volume level before I could hear any coloration in the vocals.
I really admire people who seem to have large rooms and listen at such high volumes.
 
Well this would be my quote. Signal to AV10 with ART and straight out to amps. From what I understand, your signal path is full of distractions in pursuit of even greater excellence?
1. Digital signals (with ART) from JRiver to DACs via ethernet.
2. Analog signals (with ART) from DACs to amps via AES72 (balanced audio over CAT6)
 
1. Digital signals (with ART) from JRiver to DACs via ethernet.
2. Analog signals (with ART) from DACs to amps via AES72 (balanced audio over CAT6)
Your attention to detail is impressive. Using AES72 to keep the wiring tidy and sending S/PDIF to the LS60 through the Merging HAPI II is quite a setup.
I also found it amusing that you had to move the Blade center speaker just to make room for the Christmas tree.
 
I’m not sure if the OP has chosen an amp, but any of the current class D amps would be fine.

For our Reference 3 Meta (& Reference 2 Meta), I’m using Hypex Nilai mono blocks and they work great. They are a small project which is fun and I like that Hypex supports the hobbyist and provides a 5 year warranty.

If I were to do it again, I’d get the Boxem A 4216/E5 for my system since it’s simpler (I’d use the 2 extra channels for surrounds). It looks nice, the Purifi modules run cool, and the case is designed for enhanced cooling (which probably matters more for the power supply than the modules). The Boxem 5523/E1 provides more power if you want the 9040, but I doubt it matters for the KEF speakers which aren’t hard to drive. At the time I got the Hypex amps, these newer modules had been announced, but weren’t available yet.

The Buckeye implementations of the Purifi (& Hypex) would obviously be fine, but aesthetics are a personal matter.
 
If all those are equivalent "measurement wise" – how do they compare to sth like MC611 or NuVista 800.2 ? Are the latter ones adding "signature sound" that make them different while still measure well?
You can't measure well (flat frequency response, inaudible noise and distortion, low output impedance) and have a "signature sound"
 
I think it does have a sound signature and that's why best-measuring amps are not necessarily the best sounding ones (b/c people may prefer some "colouring" on top of the original soundwaves).
you mean they want distortion or wildly varying frequency response? (I'm assuming here, you're not saying anyone wants noise). Some might though I personally can't understand why. Most (according to decades of blind testing) don't.
 
It picks up sound with a microphone and lights up beautifully.
Since it doesn’t pass through the audio circuit, it doesn’t degrade SINAD.
It also reacts to musical instruments!
They are a great bit of kit. I have one, gonna get another, so I can place one on each speaker. (There is no central location I can put it)
 
We are discussing the taste here, we are discussing preferences. You get an ugly D class box that performs better than comparable great looking box that costs 10 times more. Assumptions as I got involved in this thread is that you don't care about the price and performance of inferior unit will be acceptable. This is really a simple scenario which should not confuse anyone. If anyone can read the simple letters above and not twist it, or even if they do, MY ANSWER IS I WILL GO FOR THE GOOD LOOKING ONE .
Nothing wrong with that. It all boils down to what value different people place on the different aspect of the component. This is subjective. Some people like yourself put a high value on aesthetics, and are prepared to pay for that. Others place a high value on the engineering/measured performance, and are prepared to pay for that. The resulting decisions for both people are inherently logical, optimising personal value judgements.
 
Not sure it is. Part of the 'mission' - if there really is one - is to define what actually matters to sound quality.

Using, say, a Yamaha MX1000 instead of a Benchmark AHB2 isn't going to make any difference to sound quality. So if you prefer the looks of the Yammie, why not choose that?
It is simpler than that in my opinion.

The mission - crudely put - is to cut through the bullshit.

To understand from scientific and engineering principles how a device performs, in all aspects, rather than relying on that aforementioned marketing BS. Once we know that, we can make our buying decision based on our own personal value judgements.

For example, for me I'm comfortable that 80+ Sinad (combined with associated similar performing measurements) is good enough. I value aesthetics, but not enough to spend a lot of money on it. I want a solution with good sub integration, and room eq.

Now that I have the independent measurements available, I know what devices I can select between.
 
I would not have expected expensive stuff to fail at the same rate.
Many of the skills needed to design well measuring kit are the same skills needed to design for reliabilty. As we see that expensive doesn't necessarily mean good measurements, it holds that expensive doesn't necessary mean reliable. Reliability is a design topic (including design for manufacture), not a price topic.


PS, everone. Sorry for the 6 posts in a row. Just read this "new to me" thread, and replied as I went.
 
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