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Help me convert old speakers to actives

HFD is a bit confusing in the EQ section. You make a few filters, click ‘upload to DSP’, they upload and … disappear from the screen. ‍

That's not supposed to happen. The only thing that should happen / change when you click upload to DSP is that it says "upload successful" or something to that effect.
 
Figured that out. The reason for disappearing was disconnecting the USB when switching the Hypex unit.
I find HFD the least challenging software in this project, and VituixCAD the most challenging.
 
I will be having another go at measurements in a large room (local church) end of May, hoping to produce a set with wider gating (compared to my small flat). My confidence level is very low, though.

If someone in London is willing to join and help, that would be greatly appreciated and rewarded with endless supply of food and beer
 
What could be causing these dip and peak on the tweeter? They are even more pronounced on the nearfield measurememts.

Files are here
https://audiosciencereview.com/foru...rt-old-speakers-to-actives.54575/post-2284024

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Are these worth addressing?
Notch out the peak and apply negative gain low shelf to drop the tweeter response below 12k (instead of dropping the entire tweeter)?
 
I would do nothing at all, except it is an audible treble trouble. We are talking 2 or 3 dB, not?
 
What could be causing these dip and peak on the tweeter?
It's an internal reflection from the waveguide. Not uncommon for waveguide-loaded domes.

Nearfield it is 10dB peak to dip.
Unless you plan to listen with your ear just a few cm from the tweeter, the nearfield response is basically irrelevant. Since the dip is fairly narrow and at a high frequency, it may not be audible at all. If you choose to equalize the dip, I'd suggest using the listening window (in this case, the RMS average of -30° to +30° horizontal in 10° or 15° increments would work fine) rather than just the axial response.
 
The woofer and midrange breakup modes might still end up biting you in the rear end if signal path / amplifier noise levels are not well-controlled. Some passive notches may be advised in that case. (If you have a good idea of your final signal chain, take a listen in a quiet environment, and make sure the setup can still hit your target max levels as well. Keep in mind that noise from all 3 ways is going to add up.) Otherwise it pretty much looks like you're good to go.
 
Not much of a (accessible) path - Hypex plate amp is the entire chain.
What kind of checks and passive notches do you mean? Can you explain, please.
And what do you mean by max level? The Hypex is at 0dB, volume is controlled at the input. Comfortable background listening is at 1/10 to 1/4 vol. By 1/2 vol it is loud. At 3/4 it is concert level. Full vol is only practical on very high DR material. The amp does not enter power limiter even at full vol, unless signal has sub-20Hz tones. I just cut these out with a 20Hz LR4 high pass.
There is no hiss.
 
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Learned to export IR from REW to Hypex HFD. With the driver responses in, it is very intuitive to apply filters to smoothen the response and to set the driver delays to best summing. This curve sounded a bit bright, so I added a gentle slope. Then added three narrow notches below 100Hz to kill the worst room resonances. Result - perfect sound.

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