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Help me convert old speakers to actives

HFD is a bit confusing in the EQ section. You make a few filters, click ‘upload to DSP’, they upload and … disappear from the screen. ‍

That's not supposed to happen. The only thing that should happen / change when you click upload to DSP is that it says "upload successful" or something to that effect.
 
Figured that out. The reason for disappearing was disconnecting the USB when switching the Hypex unit.
I find HFD the least challenging software in this project, and VituixCAD the most challenging.
 
I will be having another go at measurements in a large room (local church) end of May, hoping to produce a set with wider gating (compared to my small flat). My confidence level is very low, though.

If someone in London is willing to join and help, that would be greatly appreciated and rewarded with endless supply of food and beer
 
What could be causing these dip and peak on the tweeter? They are even more pronounced on the nearfield measurememts.

Files are here
https://audiosciencereview.com/foru...rt-old-speakers-to-actives.54575/post-2284024

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Are these worth addressing?
Notch out the peak and apply negative gain low shelf to drop the tweeter response below 12k (instead of dropping the entire tweeter)?
 
I would do nothing at all, except it is an audible treble trouble. We are talking 2 or 3 dB, not?
 
What could be causing these dip and peak on the tweeter?
It's an internal reflection from the waveguide. Not uncommon for waveguide-loaded domes.

Nearfield it is 10dB peak to dip.
Unless you plan to listen with your ear just a few cm from the tweeter, the nearfield response is basically irrelevant. Since the dip is fairly narrow and at a high frequency, it may not be audible at all. If you choose to equalize the dip, I'd suggest using the listening window (in this case, the RMS average of -30° to +30° horizontal in 10° or 15° increments would work fine) rather than just the axial response.
 
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