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Help me convert old speakers to actives

With the 2 m distance room interferes a lot ... that would be the last step to optimize at main listening position via EQ.
To begin with measure at a distance of few cm (10 or 20 or so) so room reflection are attenuated and can be securely detected in the impuls graph and then can be excluded. For first estimations of the Xover parameters 0° and 30° horizontally would be enough.
Be careful with volume at short distances.
 
2m mic distance, at respective driver height, other drivers muted. Same REW level for all drivers. Woofers both playing. The room is 4m x 5.5m approx, so very small.
Which aspects are looking wrong and what are the possible/likely causes?
I agree start with nearfield measurements as that is all you can really do accurately in room. Besides the obvious room modes taking over below Schroeder, when I look at these my first impression is that maybe other drivers were not completely muted? All the measurements just look too similar. When you take the nearfield measurements after double checking that all the other drivers are muted things should make more sense. For far field i.e. 2 meters those are going to best be done outside. If you take them in room, even a big room, the low frequency measurements are just going to show the room. If you can't go outside you are better off "grafting" the near field Woofer measurement onto the LP measurements, not perfect but better than what you can measure in room.
 
Mine is even smaller, 3.6m x 4.8m. :)
How do your loudspeakers sound to you at your listening distance?
With a quick unmeasured set up they already sound very good. The HF is better than my ATCs, the MF is as good. The LF shows huge power and potential but needs fine tuning. I am already very happy with them. I am confident that when I tune everything they will be perfect, with only the size limiting the low end.
 
With a quick unmeasured set up they already sound very good. The HF is better than my ATCs, the MF is as good. The LF shows huge power and potential but needs fine tuning. I am already very happy with them. I am confident that when I tune everything they will be perfect, with only the size limiting the low end.
I expect that unless you're in the habit of playing very loud, for normal domestic volume levels, you have so much headroom available in both amplifier power and driver excursion, that you can afford to EQ the bass flat down to quite low frequencies, 20-25Hz would seem quite possible.

S
 
I expect that unless you're in the habit of playing very loud, for normal domestic volume levels, you have so much headroom available in both amplifier power and driver excursion, that you can afford to EQ the bass flat down to quite low frequencies, 20-25Hz would seem quite possible.

S
I am aiming for 25-30 at low to moderate levels. If I get lower response, will be a good bonus.
Currently, already with some boost, when playing loud, the bass drivers’ movement is just noticeable. I expect to boost it further, but not by much.
 
Here are the sweeps. I was told they are of poor measurement quality.
The measurements are pretty noisy (increasing the sweep level should help), but seem OK otherwise. Windowed curves for the tweeter and midrange:
tweeter_windowed.png midrange_windowed.png
3.8ms and 3.4ms windows, respectively. The required window for the woofers is too short to show anything very useful. If you have access to a large, flat, reflective surface outside (big slab o' concrete would do nicely), you might try ground plane measurements for the woofers.
 
overall speaker at 1.5 and 2.5m mic
Levels: woofers 0dB, mid -10dB, tweeter -12dB.
Xovers: LR4 at 250 and 3k
Asymmetrical low shelf 60/30Hz Q0.7
No other DSP

Overall spl.jpg


Overall dist.jpg
 
files
 

Attachments

  • baseline 2 mid.mdat.zip
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  • baseline 2 nearf mid.mdat.zip
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  • baseline 2 nearf tw.mdat.zip
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  • baseline 2 nearf woofers top.mdat.zip
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  • baseline 2 tw.mdat.zip
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  • baseline 2 w.mdat.zip
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  • WLT XoLR4@250 M-10bB XoLR4@3k TW-12dB.mdat.zip
    1.1 MB · Views: 19
Respect! Looks very fine all together, and the ripple below 300 Hz are room modes (seen by some differences from 1.5 to 2.5 meter distance).
Now Lekha's question "how do they sound" would be next ....
 
They sound near perfect. Very clean sound at any volume. Very clean highs and mids. Seemingly endless reserves of power, unexpected at the size. The only area to tune is the lows under 200Hz.
 
Fine.
And here you can go with EQ on the top page of HFD, to not change the filters of the drivers.
Remind: filter settings can not be read out from the DSP from the plateamp, so securely save or better write them down.
 
HFD is a bit confusing in the EQ section. You make a few filters, click ‘upload to DSP’, they upload and … disappear from the screen. ‍
 
Yes, HFD is made for masochists (ask @sigbergaudio :cool:), but without it won't work. The only advantage, if using the FR recording of HFD, any filter setting is precalculated (and more or less correct), so one can see without remeasuring what probably will happen.

Don't mess up the EQ section with the PEQ section: The EQ (for room EQ or whatever) is on the first page at starting HFD ("main screen", page 6 in the manual). This will change 'overall' FR without respect to the single drivers.

Configuring the individual PEQ for the drivers take a FR and insert the filters as needed (manual page 15). After that clicking on the dots in the graph will open a submenue to edit the filters.
 
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