restorer-john
Grand Contributor
Take the barcode sticker off the P205.
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Help me convert old speakers to actives
- Thread starter AlmaAtaKZ
- Start date
- Thread Starter
- #222
The plan for the cabinet conversion is (using valchromat):
- add a new 18mm front baffle (this will block the port). Front baffle will have 1mm rubber gasket under it. Possbly angled bevels.
- add 8mm panels to all walls internally
- add 18mm internal partition LF/HF
- add internal bracing (3 or 4 braces)
- replace the 12mm back panel with 2x12mm new back panel, with the amp box in it. Back panel will be on threaded inserts and rubber gasket
- line internal walls with butyl or another (?)
- fill LF and MF chambers with wadding
This will make the internal volume for LF about 10L, which is suitable for the drivers. The MF volume will be about 3L, so room to add some more material/shape for more MF back absorption
- add a new 18mm front baffle (this will block the port). Front baffle will have 1mm rubber gasket under it. Possbly angled bevels.
- add 8mm panels to all walls internally
- add 18mm internal partition LF/HF
- add internal bracing (3 or 4 braces)
- replace the 12mm back panel with 2x12mm new back panel, with the amp box in it. Back panel will be on threaded inserts and rubber gasket
- line internal walls with butyl or another (?)
- fill LF and MF chambers with wadding
This will make the internal volume for LF about 10L, which is suitable for the drivers. The MF volume will be about 3L, so room to add some more material/shape for more MF back absorption
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- Thread Starter
- #223
- Thread Starter
- #226
Well, from the outside the speakers will look very similar. It is the inside and the back where all the changes will be.
Currently buying all the small bits needed (screws, gaskets, deadening etc.) and waiting for the guy who helps me with the woodwork to become available.
The trickiest bit on the cabinet will be patching the old front panel and bevelling the new baffle.
Hope to place the Valchromat order today.
Currently buying all the small bits needed (screws, gaskets, deadening etc.) and waiting for the guy who helps me with the woodwork to become available.
The trickiest bit on the cabinet will be patching the old front panel and bevelling the new baffle.
Hope to place the Valchromat order today.
- Thread Starter
- #227
Updated final build plan:
- add a new
- add 8mm panels to all walls internally
- add
- add internal bracing (
- replace the 12mm back panel with
- line internal walls of the MF chamber with butyl 4mm and acoustic foam 50mm
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The Valchromat order is pre-cut. Some pieces (that do not depend on other pieces) to exact size, some pieces to be trimmed once measured in place.
All materials have been delivered, hope to start the build next week.
where did you order them?
- Thread Starter
- #230
It was PartsExpress, while I was in US on holiday
Price quoted in UK was 200GBP/driver.
I got them in US for under 80GBP/driver.
Tweeter and mid ordered in UK from lean business audio.
Price quoted in UK was 200GBP/driver.
I got them in US for under 80GBP/driver.
Tweeter and mid ordered in UK from lean business audio.
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- Thread Starter
- #233
The woodwork takes double the time I thought.
But the old back panels and partitions are out, driver holes in the new front panels are done and the old holes are filled.
More work tomorrow.
But the old back panels and partitions are out, driver holes in the new front panels are done and the old holes are filled.
More work tomorrow.
- Thread Starter
- #234
Two days of cutting and routing and the woodwork stage is compete - moving to the Ikea stage. The underestimation of woodwork time turned out to be by a factor of 3!
From this experience, modifying the cabinet (vs building a new one) is counterproductive. Building a new one should be easier and quicker, and would remove a few unnecessary constraints. And it is still an option to build a new one as a potential continuation of this project.
From this experience, modifying the cabinet (vs building a new one) is counterproductive. Building a new one should be easier and quicker, and would remove a few unnecessary constraints. And it is still an option to build a new one as a potential continuation of this project.
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- Thread Starter
- #237
Somewhere on this panel there will be LED status indicator and IR sensor. Where do you think they best fit looks wise?
The two are a few mm apart, so really small, so I think would even fit under the bottom driver on the centreline.
The two are a few mm apart, so really small, so I think would even fit under the bottom driver on the centreline.
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