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Help me choose a pair of monitors (budget max €3500)

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fmessier6

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However for brutal loud deep bass there is no way around at least one sub.

Thanks, and thank you everyone for your precious suggestions. I'm taking notes and learning as much as I can!

I'm pretty much sold on the sub idea, all things considered. I narrowed down my few choices:

Keep the HS8, buy the HS8S subwoofer€449
Buy just the Neumann KH310 and try them at home€3700
Buy the Neumann KH310 + Neumann KH 750 DSP"I'm never financially recover from this"
Buy the Neumann KH310 + a cheaper 8/10'' sub(a stupid idea?)
 
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fmessier6

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You can definitely drill into your walls without shattering them. But there are many other ways of installing acoustic treatment that don't involve drilling. The properties of your room are at least as important as your speakers.

As mentioned, I'll probably pay someone local (pro) to work on my room instead of going the DIY way. Despite my desire to learn and to experiment, my job takes most if not all my available time.

Meanwhile this guy from Amazon is looking at me, from its corner. Your time will come my friend, I'm sure.

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LTig

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Thanks, and thank you everyone for your precious suggestions. I'm taking notes and learning as much as I can!

I'm pretty much sold on the sub idea, all things considered. I narrowed down my few choices:

Keep the HS8, buy the HS8S subwoofer€449
Buy just the Neumann KH310 and try them at home€3700
Buy the Neumann KH310 + Neumann KH 750 DSP"I'm never financially recover from this"
Buy the Neumann KH310 + a cheaper 8/10'' sub(a stupid idea?)
Depends on what you really want: just brutal loud deep bass, or maybe the KH310s already seduced you with their overall sound quality?

If you go the sub way (;)) a single 8" sub won't do. One or two 10" are the minimum. I use one 10" (Genelec 8060b) in a 50 sqm room but it is the limiting factor when I play louder than I ever do ( which means fine for me but maybe not for you).

If you go for the KH310 try to find a used pair. They came on the market in 2013. One should never go into serious debts for a hobby.
 
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fmessier6

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One or two 10" are the minimum

Is the difference between 8' and 10'' so significant? Just asking, this is a new field for me and the general consensus is indeed this, that 8' is barely enough. My room is 5 meters x 4 meters, by the way.

Also, if the bigger the better in terms of bass performance, can I just plug my HS8 in a €700 12'' KRK S12G4 and call it a day?
Or would that be stupid?
 

thewas

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The KH310 was in the very center of a large auditorium, for measurements I'd say at least 10 meters (32 feet) x 8 meters.
As said by others the center of a room is not a great position for a loudspeaker, especially regarding bass. Often in studio shops there are also dozens of other loudspeakers which with their bass membranes and ports can act as bass absorbers, making the tested loudspeakers sound quite bass shy and not having enough SPL.
 

Pearljam5000

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Just order the KH310 from Thomann.de and return if You don't like Them
What do you have to lose
 

LTig

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Is the difference between 8' and 10'' so significant?
10" / 8" is the diameter ratio. It's the volume of the air moved by the woofer though which counts so you have to quadruple this ratio for the area, and multiply it by the ratio of the maximum extenion (bigger woofers have higher extension). Bigger woofers also have bigger voice coils which can handle more power, and they may have higher sensitivity. All the factors multiply to the ratios mentioned above.

Just asking, this is a new field for me and the general consensus is indeed this, that 8' is barely enough. My room is 5 meters x 4 meters, by the way.
A 10" may be enough.
Also, if the bigger the better in terms of bass performance, can I just plug my HS8 in a €700 12'' KRK S12G4 and call it a day?
Or would that be stupid?
Don't know this one, but no. Make sure that the sub goes down to 20 Hz / -3 dB. Many cheap and small ones reach only 30 Hz if at all. But 2 or more small subs can deliver better bass than one big sub ...
 

Longshan

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As mentioned, I'll probably pay someone local (pro) to work on my room instead of going the DIY way. Despite my desire to learn and to experiment, my job takes most if not all my available time.

Meanwhile this guy from Amazon is looking at me, from its corner. Your time will come my friend, I'm sure.

View attachment 173962
Sorry, I think I missed the part where you had mentioned getting someone to do that for me. Love the colour of that panel!
 

Septentrio

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I think this is an easy and solvable problem.

My writing room is where I compose music (as previously mentioned, contemporary classical and orchestral - I'm a composer and conductor) but it's the room where I also listen to music for pleasure and occasionally watch movies.

And when I watch movies, I won't deny that I'd love to experience an amount of bass that I would describe as "brutal".

So, on one side I'm at the stage in my career where I can afford to spend up to €3500 on a pair of monitors, on the other I would also like to purchase something that will have my bass needs completely satisfied (= playing the opening sequence of Blade Runner 2049 and have my neighbours call the police on me).

So, first fork in the road: can I achieve this without a sub?

Can the KH310 or the Quested V2108 (the two expensive options in my list, and the ones with the biggest woofers at 8'') provide a decent (and superior to my HS8) amount of bass output?

Also, I never realistically considered the option, but Yamaha has a sub for the HS8, the HS8S.

The reason - maybe silly - on why I specified that I didn't want a sub is because I thought I would be able to perceive where the bass was coming from, and also I didn't want to set up another piece of equipment if my needs would have been solved with monitors capable of providing a satisfying amount of bass.

Thanks to everyone for your replies :)
Off topic, but since you mentioned being a composer and a conductor...I'd very much like to check out some of your works!
 
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fmessier6

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As said by others the center of a room is not a great position for a loudspeaker, especially regarding bass. Often in studio shops there are also dozens of other loudspeakers which with their bass membranes and ports can act as bass absorbers, making the tested loudspeakers sound quite bass shy and not having enough SPL.

Good to know. Thank you so much.
Make sure that the sub goes down to 20 Hz / -3 dB.

These are the specifics of the 12-inch KRK:
  • 220-watt, class D amplifier
  • Frequency range: 26 - 97 Hz
  • Max. SPL: 119.9 dB
  • SNR: 92 dB
And these for the 10-inch KRK sub:

10"; glass-aramid composite woofer;
frequency range: 30 Hz - 110 Hz;
max SPL: 117.2 dB;
Class D amplifier 160 Watt;

I also found the Presonus Tremblor on Thomann, cheaper (€385) and with these specs

  • Equiped with: 10 "woofer
  • Power: 250 W Class AB amplifier
  • Frequency range 20-200 Hz
  • Variable low pass filter from 50 - 130 Hz
  • Signal-to-Noise Ratio> 98 dB
  • THD 0.019% @ power <160 W
  • Peak SPL 113 dB at 1m
 
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fmessier6

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EDIT:

I went with the KH310 :) I will report back!

1) If budget was tight and I wanted to add a sub, would it be ok to add a € 357 Presonus Temblor T10 for a little punch instead of the four times more expensive Neumann KH750?

2) I bought a B-stock of the right KH310 as soon as I saw it and I was able to save a little, and if the left one doesn't pop up on the website as well, today or tomorrow I'm gonna purchase it new.

Hope I didn't do anything stupid and matching a slightly used right (it should be a speaker used less than a month) with a new left isn't going to cause you guys a massive facepalm. Buying a b-stock allowed me to stay perfectly in budget, and if the left one will appear as well, that means money for a sub or some extras.
 

caught gesture

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EDIT:

I went with the KH310 :) I will report back!

1) If budget was tight and I wanted to add a sub, would it be ok to add a € 357 Presonus Temblor T10 for a little punch instead of the four times more expensive Neumann KH750?

2) I bought a B-stock of the right KH310 as soon as I saw it and I was able to save a little, and if the left one doesn't pop up on the website as well, today or tomorrow I'm gonna purchase it new.

Hope I didn't do anything stupid and matching a slightly used right (it should be a speaker used less than a month) with a new left isn't going to cause you guys a massive facepalm. Buying a b-stock allowed me to stay perfectly in budget, and if the left one will appear as well, that means money for a sub or some extras.
I’d buy something like two of these instead of the KH750. Yes, you are going to have to do some more work with integrating them, but multiple subs is the way forward in getting great bass. Looking forward to your report on the KH310s. From the Neumann website,
  • Any KH 310 is “pair matched” to any other KH 310
 

LTig

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Good to know. Thank you so much.


These are the specifics of the 12-inch KRK:
  • 220-watt, class D amplifier
  • Frequency range: 26 - 97 Hz
  • Max. SPL: 119.9 dB
  • SNR: 92 dB
And these for the 10-inch KRK sub:

10"; glass-aramid composite woofer;
frequency range: 30 Hz - 110 Hz;
max SPL: 117.2 dB;
Class D amplifier 160 Watt;

I also found the Presonus Tremblor on Thomann, cheaper (€385) and with these specs

  • Equiped with: 10 "woofer
  • Power: 250 W Class AB amplifier
  • Frequency range 20-200 Hz
  • Variable low pass filter from 50 - 130 Hz
  • Signal-to-Noise Ratio> 98 dB
  • THD 0.019% @ power <160 W
  • Peak SPL 113 dB at 1m
The "specified" frequency ranges of all these subs lack the dB range, so take them with a bucket of salt. Don't expect something like +/- 3dB but rather -10dB or worse. Serious companies provide full specs and plots but you have to pay for that.
 

LTig

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EDIT:

I went with the KH310 :) I will report back!
Yes please.
1) If budget was tight and I wanted to add a sub, would it be ok to add a € 357 Presonus Temblor T10 for a little punch instead of the four times more expensive Neumann KH750?
On paper and looking at the back side it offers most you'll need for a 2.1 system. I like the possibility to bypass the sub using a cheap external switch. The only thing missing compared to my 7060b is the 90 degree phase switch.
2) I bought a B-stock of the right KH310 as soon as I saw it and I was able to save a little, and if the left one doesn't pop up on the website as well, today or tomorrow I'm gonna purchase it new.

Hope I didn't do anything stupid and matching a slightly used right (it should be a speaker used less than a month) with a new left isn't going to cause you guys a massive facepalm.
No need to worry. Neumann speakers are all factory calibrated so you can use any 2 of the same model for a stereo system, or more for a HT system.
 
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fmessier6

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I was mostly worrying about the break-in period and the differences between new and used. That bit about the break-in period was from the Adam website, though, so maybe it applies only to Adam monitors.
I can guarantee that the only things that broke with the a77x were my heart and my patience.

With this Neumann B-stock, is there anything I should do to test that it works correctly besides listening to a lot of music?

Thomann should have tested it already, I assume.

On paper and looking at the back side it offers most you'll need for a 2.1 system.

Fantastic.

Knowing absolutely zero about subwoofers so far, I assume I'll have to go speakers → balanced cables → sub → balanced cables → Komplete Audio 2 and then set a the frequency where I want the sub to start playing and set what frequencies to ignore?

And ideally the bass from the Neumanns and the one coming from the Presonus sub should not overlap in terms of frequencies, correct?

I like the possibility to bypass the sub using a cheap external switch.

This sounds like a fantastic feature.
 

dominikz

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EDIT:

I went with the KH310 :) I will report back!

1) If budget was tight and I wanted to add a sub, would it be ok to add a € 357 Presonus Temblor T10 for a little punch instead of the four times more expensive Neumann KH750?

2) I bought a B-stock of the right KH310 as soon as I saw it and I was able to save a little, and if the left one doesn't pop up on the website as well, today or tomorrow I'm gonna purchase it new.

Hope I didn't do anything stupid and matching a slightly used right (it should be a speaker used less than a month) with a new left isn't going to cause you guys a massive facepalm. Buying a b-stock allowed me to stay perfectly in budget, and if the left one will appear as well, that means money for a sub or some extras.
If you don't have a lot of experience with subwoofer integration and room EQ the Neumann KH 750 DSP + MA1 kit gives you a quick, simple and automated way to get (presumably) good results with Neumann monitors. I'd say that's its main value proposition.

Otherwise, if you're able to do system calibration by other means (e.g. REW and Equalizer APO software on PC, or an external crossover/DSP box like the popular miniDSPs) there are surely many cheaper subwoofers that perform as well (or better) looking at raw audio performance. I'd also suggest to have a look at the great subwoofer comparison chart by @sweetchaos.

Good luck!
 

LTig

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I was mostly worrying about the break-in period and the differences between new and used.
Neumann speakers need no break in. Remember they are factory calibrated which would not make any sense when FR changes at first usage.
With this Neumann B-stock, is there anything I should do to test that it works correctly besides listening to a lot of music?
Don't think so.
Knowing absolutely zero about subwoofers so far, I assume I'll have to go speakers → balanced cables → sub → balanced cables → Komplete Audio 2 and then set a the frequency where I want the sub to start playing and set what frequencies to ignore?

And ideally the bass from the Neumanns and the one coming from the Presonus sub should not overlap in terms of frequencies, correct?
The crossover in the sub handles this for you. You connect the preamp via XLR with the 2 inputs of the sub and the 2 outputs of the sub to the speakers. In bypass mode the signal is routed without change from input to output and the sub is switched off. In Normal mode the input signal goes to the crossover which sends the low pass filtered signal to the sub and the high pass filtered signal to the output (speakers). You just need to decide at which frequency the crossover shall work.
 

dominikz

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In Normal mode the input signal goes to the crossover which sends the low pass filtered signal to the sub and the high pass filtered signal to the output (speakers). You just need to decide at which frequency the crossover shall work.
I'd just add that usually you can only control the low-pass frequency on such subwoofers, while the high-pass is typically a fixed frequency (often at 80 or 85Hz). So if you use the built-in crossover you are in practice limited to use this predefined high-pass frequency for the low-pass as well.
Note also that many subs don't even have the high-pass filter at all.
 
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fmessier6

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The crossover in the sub handles this for you. You connect the preamp via XLR with the 2 inputs of the sub and the 2 outputs of the sub to the speakers. In bypass mode the signal is routed without change from input to output and the sub is switched off. In Normal mode the input signal goes to the crossover which sends the low pass filtered signal to the sub and the high pass filtered signal to the output (speakers). You just need to decide at which frequency the crossover shall work.

Thanks for taking time to explain this to me in an understandable and clear way, it has been really useful.

I'm reading mixed reviews for the Presonus Tremblor, some love it, some have serious concerns. I guess I'll start with trying the right KH310 and see how it behaves in my room, and then if he behaves I'll find him a twin brother in a few days.

I also want to keep the left HS8 connected and do some sort of A/B testing which will involve using the L/R pan slider on Winamp to see the difference in detail from the two speakers. If I can't, it means either I'm deaf or I don't deserve the KH310. Joking of course. A little.
 

LTig

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I'd just add that usually you can only control the low-pass frequency on such subwoofers, while the high-pass is typically a fixed frequency (often at 80 or 85Hz). So if you use the built-in crossover you are in practice limited to use this predefined high-pass frequency for the low-pass as well.
Note also that many subs don't even have the high-pass filter at all.
Is that so? Stupid! :facepalm:
 
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