• Welcome to ASR. There are many reviews of audio hardware and expert members to help answer your questions. Click here to have your audio equipment measured for free!

Help analyse my attempt at room correction fellow flac-philes!

Vivyn

Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2026
Messages
11
Likes
3

Ive attatched my measurement files, first few graphs are before calibration, and the following set calibrated with EqualiserAPO.
I took a look at the waterfall graph and can say with fair confidence that the room mode at 125hz has been tamed, for reference this is a Genelec 8020D run with SMSL PS200 and measurements taken at 85dB with a UMIK-1 in an room with dry walls loaded with glass wool.

1785851130915.png

And here is the first generated EQ, though the former sounded a tad bit less fussy, the measurement with this eq is the V1 titled measurement.
To set a reference point I listened to a pair of 8341's in a treated room with GLM correction, and can note that the tonality wise my setup sounds the same and happy to report my room has no problems except for the extreme resonance at 125hz, having an underpowered low end helps not having to flip any of the DIP switches and have clean low ends :)
1785851262355.png



I later tried generating a eq for L and R channel separately, and here are the filters respectively, it just sounded bass heavy with recessed everything.
I followed this method, and had tried 1 and 2 dB flatness target, both had similar results...
1785851433263.png

1785851444976.png


not sure whats going on there, Ill attach the text files of the filters in the google drive if that helps.

All critics and feedbacks are welcome.

I can upload some pictures of the room if it can helps
 
Hi @Vivyn! Welcome to ASR.

Bass response should always be corrected with L+R playing together, as the vast majority of music, soundtracks, etc are Mono below a couple hundred Hz and so it's the complex sum of L and R that you want to correct, not each channel individually.

Also, give this anechoic correction for the 8020 a try:

Above the Schröder frequency, correcting the in-room response is treacherous as the typical in-room measurement will not differentiate between direct and indirect sound whereas your ears will.

It's usually the direct sound which you want to correct, which is what the anechoic correction does.

So all in all, I'd apply the anechoic correction first, then with it applied measure the in-room L+R response using the Moving Microphone Method and use that to correct the bass response below ∼400Hz.

Finally, add the bass correction filters to the anechoic correction filters and apply pre-gain to limit effective gain to <0dB.

I think that's about the best you can do without delving into FIR filtering.
 
Hi @Vivyn! Welcome to ASR.

Bass response should always be corrected with L+R playing together, as the vast majority of music, soundtracks, etc are Mono below a couple hundred Hz and so it's the complex sum of L and R that you want to correct, not each channel individually.

Also, give this anechoic correction for the 8020 a try:

Above the Schröder frequency, correcting the in-room response is treacherous as the typical in-room measurement will not differentiate between direct and indirect sound whereas your ears will.

It's usually the direct sound which you want to correct, which is what the anechoic correction does.

So all in all, I'd apply the anechoic correction first, then with it applied measure the in-room L+R response using the Moving Microphone Method and use that to correct the bass response below ∼400Hz.

Finally, add the bass correction filters to the anechoic correction filters and apply pre-gain to limit effective gain to <0dB.

I think that's about the best you can do without delving into FIR filtering.
Hey G'day @staticV3 thank for your time for this reply, I will give the anechoic correction a try, I had at first forced myself into a 80cm x 80cm x 80cm triangle in name of accurate imaging but it was right in level with my 27 inch monitor, I have thus moved it 5 inches in front of it and made the distance from the rear wall 30cms now. <400hz the only problem I had was the massive resonance at 125hz, just doing a manual frequency sweep with a tone generator pinged it very clearly, rest all seemed to be in check.

Regarding the low end, I did try a -4dB bass DIP on left and a -2 and a 0 dB DIP on the right speaker (before getting UMIK and doing measurement) but now at no DIP for both cause the there is no low end build up and the bass wasn't getting muddy at all, it was just my try to control the resonance muddling with the mids and smearing everything.
Finally, add the bass correction filters to the anechoic correction filters and apply pre-gain to limit effective gain to <0dB.
Which is kind of what I have done right now, except I have reduced the pre gain quiet a bit so that I don't accidentally blow out my ears, I have the speakers at the max -6dB gain and an another -6dB at the Equaliser APO so that I can use windows volume control like a normal person. for reference with both gain reductions they were playing 85dB at volume set to 50% at windows. I don't believe I would ever hit the limiter in these anytime soon in this house. I will attach a few pictures of my room, but this was before the corrections, I now have the wooden blocks (to get them ear level I did not like the idea of having an absurd tilt on the speakers iso pod and felt it formed unnecessary reflections, would not having the wooden blocks and the monitors just on my shelf there with a hard angle made any difference? Ive never seen anything use speakers with more than +/- 15 degree tilt) under the speaker covered with glued on cloth, and speakers not in pane with the display monitor(local combing problem? I took measurements with the 8020D sticking to the rear wall, at pane with the monitor and as far forward as possible; it heard the same and measurements said the same as well.... is that supposed to be as well or should there be a discrepancy between these), and at a proper 30 degree toe in, tweeter axis firing right at my ears, my listening triangle is now 75 cm to each tweeter, and the tweeters 80cms apart.

1785939223195.png
1785939292132.png
1785939306746.png
1785939333903.png
1785939306746.png



I understand that the fridge right behind me is a mirror acoustically, I will need to do something about it. The rest of the walls are dry walls with some acoustic treatment, I had some Massive Attack album playing near 80dB and went outside my room to see how loud it is, and it was just mildly audible and no complaints from neighbours in 4 months!
After flipping the bass dips switches back to 0 and not having any cut on the low ends (except for the correction seen in the original posts, first image of Equaliser APO.

At the setup area, the room measures a width of 1.5m, ceiling height 2.5m, length of 3.2m and distance between the 8020 on my desktop 80cms, distance from back wall 20cm, and distance of woofer from floor 96cm. I do have a thick mousepad on the desktop and it helps a little with some reflections I believe.

I will go through the post you linked here and redo the correction and see if it makes a difference but as you said I have done a <400hz correction majorly, the other corrections over 400hz are very minor.

Furthermore, what kind of a room treatment would you recommend here, I was thinking of a 10cm thick rock wool at side walls for First reflection point, and some foam panels behind my display monitor and a few on the fridge and wardrobe doors.
 

Attachments

  • 1785939277304.png
    1785939277304.png
    1 MB · Views: 54
Last edited:
I'd apply the anechoic correction first
Its a 4 inch woofer, no humps or dips <400hz from anechoic readings, and the small humps (near 2.5k and 7.5k Hz) which are given on genelecs official white paper, I believe its best to leave them as is, wont really make an audible difference. All I want is true representation of what I am listening to and sharp imaging. The only sever problem was around 120hz - 190hz.

On to FIR Filtering, do we have any guide in ASR for that. I am a newbie here and have just been using the massive contribution of @amirm in his reviews and measurements of dacs and amps while picking out parts for my previous KEF setup. Life was so much more simpler when I had those and my ears had not tasted finer audio reproduction.
 
Its a 4 inch woofer, no humps or dips <400hz from anechoic readings, and the small humps (near 2.5k and 7.5k Hz) which are given on genelecs official white paper, I believe its best to leave them as is, wont really make an audible difference. All I want is true representation of what I am listening to and sharp imaging.
I believe the 8020's Listening Window response is worth correcting for accurate playback:

Genelec 8020 (G2) Zoom PIR-LW-ON.png

At the very least, I can't think of a reason not to give the correction a try.

If it sounds worse than stock, just leave it off.


On to FIR Filtering, do we have any guide in ASR for that. I am a newbie here and have just been using the massive contribution of @amirm in his reviews and measurements of dacs and amps while picking out parts for my previous KEF setup. Life was so much more simpler when I had those and my ears had not tasted finer audio reproduction.
ASR member @OCA has a ton of FIR tutorials on his YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ocaudiophile

But it's a box that tbh I'm not sure is worth opening for Stereo nearfield setups.

I think your time would be better spent on improving the room acoustics, where I'd remove the shelf directly above the left speaker and hang up some of these felt wall panels for better RT60:
roegeteg_4_3038adce-908e-4e8d-beac-2e1ca9716c54_1300x.jpg
 
Last edited:
Are you in a student hostel? And you want to install 10cm rock wool acoustic treatment? I suppose your system would benefit from it from what I can see in the ETC. Anyway you're doing much better than what I had when I was a student and living in similar digs. I was listening to computer speakers with a cassette Walkman!

1785945334615.png


Anyway, I strongly suggest you don't do this. As @staticV3 says, you need a proper anechoic measurement. To make things worse, your correction for your left speaker is different to your right. Now, SOMETIMES this is justified, for e.g. if your speakers were manufactured by some incompetent clown from his garage who can't make a pair of speakers the same. But this is Genelec we are talking about. I am 99.9999999% sure that you are correcting measurement artefacts that high in the frequency range.

If I were you, I would correct L+R together up to about 100-200Hz. Maybe up to 400Hz, but definitely with an MMM. Leave everything above that alone. If you need to, you can apply a tilt if you find the sound too bright - but make sure you apply the same filter to both speakers.
 
I believe the 8020's Listening Window response is worth correcting for accurate playback
Good sir, the correction we are talking here with the listening window <400hz is within 2dB, for my listening levels I am pretty sure there would be no differece, but will give it a go..
1785946751610.png

there is a minor hump near 40hz, which is roughly +2dB nevertheless ill do the measurement with your moving mic method tomorrow and follow up

ASR member @OCA has a ton of FIR tutorials on his YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ocaudiophile

Thanks will check those out and give it an experiment down the line !
But it's a box that tbh I'm not sure is worth opening for Stereo nearfield setups.
Agreed, sitting hardly 80cms away direct sound is much more prominent, and the entire cabinet being so well built and acting as a minimum diffraction waveguide I am kinda blessed to not worry much about it.


I think your time would be better spent on improving the room acoustics, where I'd remove the shelf directly above the left speakers and hang up some of these felt wall panels for better RT60:
Unfortunately that is something I cannot do, I will move to a slightly larger room which is rectangular in shape in a couple of months, hopefully I wouldnt have any such immediate reflective surfaces. And to those felt pads, where all should I hang those, just the side first reflection point ( there really arent any first reflection given how close field the setup is) but if it helps with decay I am all for it. And should I bother doing anything about the flat surfaces behind me or just leave them as if, I am listening around 72-75 dB majority of the time at best, very seldom cross 80.

I really appreciate your feedback and guidance. Thank you
 
Are you in a student hostel?
yup ! 10 cm in thickness, I can make a pair of 1.5ft by 3ft by 10cm panel for not much money here, and there are plenty of rock wool being sold as excess from custom installations where I live. And I am an engineer of sort, can do some minor wood work and DIY it.
Anyway you're doing much better than what I had when I was a student and living in similar digs.
ha, thanks it took me over 6 years to get where I am now, been a pretty long and good journey.

Yes I have removed out the adjustments >400hz though they did not really make much of a difference to begin with, mabe it was slightly different in the higher volume levels but im sure its adding in unwanted distortions, away they go now. I will do the MM on the morrow and follow up.

the individual L and R correction was for in room L and R differences, not the speaker itself, while playing around with a sin wave frequency generator with L and R channels individually I noticed certain frequencies being in a slightly different level, maybe it was my head ? so I gave it a try and it sounded super messed up.
sound too bright
Too bright? I find it just perfect, I was listening back to some live recordings of a concert I attended, and it sounded exactly as I could remember it, minus the dynamicness aspect of it. I feel they give it as a standard layout, but its usually the bigger monitors where people run across it being a little too bright for long sessions
manufactured by some incompetent clown from his garage

Lol, we are talking about hand assembled in Finland speakers, which come burnt in and invdividually tested. I believe only surgical instruments and medicines will have better tolerances than these people. Before purchasing this I tested the 8020, 30, 40, 50, 8851 and couple of models in Dyn audio Adam, Eve and Barefoot. What suprised me was how every speaker made by genelec sounded the same, ditto. Only low frequency extension and headroom improved, and a better resolving drivers with the 83x1 series. But the low end texturing and juicy vocals and the lack of any kind of sibilance and perfect control of highs was in the same level even on my 8020, loving these more by the day. Very well refined and engineered cabinets and simple drivers.
 
Good sir, the correction we are talking here with the listening window <400hz is within 2dB, for my listening levels I am pretty sure there would be no differece, but will give it a go..
Ah no, anechoic loudspeaker correction I'd always do full-range, up to 20kHz.

Just copy the full-range correction presets created by Maiky76 into your config. Perhaps A/B his LW correction against Score correction and no correction to find the best for you. But that's that.

Then in-room bass response correction <400Hz on top.
 
Then in-room bass response correction <400Hz
Ive did this and got the following measurements:

try one.jpg

Without any corrections
Post correction RTA.jpg

post correction,

And here was the before and after

post result.jpg

(Blue: <400 + anechoic, Red: Just <400 correction)
LW correction
sounded a bit better, will need to spend more time with it to get a clear idea on whats better for me.


And, while going bass correction with the RTA data is it supposed to look like this by any chance?

1786000125117.png
 
Then in-room bass response correction <400Hz on top.
Bass texturing went to a whole different league now, and is clearly visible on the reduced distortion from the measurements . Many thanks and god bless
 
And, while going bass correction with the RTA data is it supposed to look like this by any chance?

1786000125117.png
Is it supposed to look like what?

If you mean the graph that's barely on screen, click on the down arrow to close the waterfall graph:
1786000125117~2.jpg

Then use the scroll bar to center the SPL graph:
1786000125117~3.jpg
 
If you mean the graph that's barely on screen, click on the down arrow to close the waterfall graph:
1786000125117~2.jpg
no no, I meant if the spl values is fine if it appears that low, I wa sused to seeing everything around 70-80dB, I later matched target level value automatically and did the eq,
Without any corrections
Post correction RTA.jpg
I take it that this is the most Ill be able to get without adding in some bass traps aka the felt pads on the side walls and maybe something behind the monitors, the dip at 280hz is the only concern now. Thank you for the help so far!
 
no no, I meant if the spl values is fine if it appears that low, I wa sused to seeing everything around 70-80dB, I later matched target level value automatically and did the eq,
RTA->Cog wheel->Appearance:
Screenshot 2026-08-06 165808.jpg
 
RTA->Cog wheel->Appearance:
View attachment 549656
gottcha,

1786029013716.png

Also what do you think of this, AI generated, but from a quick chat in GPT it seems like this will be a improvement in decay times, and have a even dampening upto 250hz and , the immediate panels behind the speakers would help with the phase cancellation happening at around 275hz. I presume I should skip with the side panels, as my listening triangle is pretty small, and the right speaker are firing into the kitchen corridor a the left speaker firing into the bed cubicle respectively, and with the directivity being pretty tight on the these helps in this case. I looked into the dispersion type panel you recommended, but I feel trapping would work more beneficial in a nearfield setup. What say you..

P.S. out of curiosity what are you running as your main setup now @staticV3
 
Back
Top Bottom