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Has anyone tried Redco Audio speaker cables yet?

Jeff M.

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Dec 30, 2023
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Hello and good morning everyone. So here are the cables am looking at from redco audio 12/2 C-2 cable. They look Identical to the Mogmai speaker cables W3031 just a lot cheaper and they use tissue paper to fill in the void between the out side cable and the Jacket. Mogmai uses a plastic rope filler and is (0.18µH/Ft). The Redco Audio is 35pf/pf. So let’s be honest will I ever tell a difference between these cables?

So here is the second cable am looking at from Redco Audio. The 12/4 4C Cables. The Mogmai cable is the W3014 cables 0.6µH/m(0.18µH/Ft) and the Redco Cables at 35pf/pf. Same as up above. redco uses tissue paper to fill in the gaps of the wire and Mogmai uses a cotton cloth between the wires now. They look very similar and Identical. So can anyone let me know if there would be a slight difference in sound ? Am I just paying for a name brand or should I get the Redco brand and call it a day? Thanks Jeff
 
Hello and good morning everyone. So here are the cables am looking at from redco audio 12/2 C-2 cable. They look Identical to the Mogmai speaker cables W3031 just a lot cheaper and they use tissue paper to fill in the void between the out side cable and the Jacket. Mogmai uses a plastic rope filler and is (0.18µH/Ft). The Redco Audio is 35pf/pf. So let’s be honest will I ever tell a difference between these cables?

So here is the second cable am looking at from Redco Audio. The 12/4 4C Cables. The Mogmai cable is the W3014 cables 0.6µH/m(0.18µH/Ft) and the Redco Cables at 35pf/pf. Same as up above. redco uses tissue paper to fill in the gaps of the wire and Mogmai uses a cotton cloth between the wires now. They look very similar and Identical. So can anyone let me know if there would be a slight difference in sound ? Am I just paying for a name brand or should I get the Redco brand and call it a day? Thanks Jeff
You have been here long enough to know the answer to that Q. Any wire made following the most basic of design and manufacturing will have no audible differences. Full stop.
 
You have been here long enough to know the answer to that Q. Any wire made following the most basic of design and manufacturing will have no audible differences. Full stop.
Well you got me. I can’t pull a fast one on you WillBrink . I ended up ordering the redco 12/2 C-2 only 25 feet of it. I only make 8 foot cables or less. I will make the cables and dress them up with Tecflex covering. This is for my dad’s speaker 2 way speakers I built him 18 years ago coming up. He will surely enjoy them.
 
Redco’s zip-style speaker wire looks a lot like the Mogami/Soundrunner wires with the same numbers from days past. W8114, W8112, etc.
 
Hello and good morning everyone. So here are the cables am looking at from redco audio 12/2 C-2 cable. They look Identical to the Mogmai speaker cables W3031 just a lot cheaper and they use tissue paper to fill in the void between the out side cable and the Jacket. Mogmai uses a plastic rope filler and is (0.18µH/Ft). The Redco Audio is 35pf/pf. So let’s be honest will I ever tell a difference between these cables?

So here is the second cable am looking at from Redco Audio. The 12/4 4C Cables. The Mogmai cable is the W3014 cables 0.6µH/m(0.18µH/Ft) and the Redco Cables at 35pf/pf. Same as up above. redco uses tissue paper to fill in the gaps of the wire and Mogmai uses a cotton cloth between the wires now. They look very similar and Identical. So can anyone let me know if there would be a slight difference in sound ? Am I just paying for a name brand or should I get the Redco brand and call it a day? Thanks Jeff
Get whatever you want. But I am curious why you are concerned about inductance and capacitance for common speaker cables, since the speaker's reactance likely greatly dominates the reactive impedance, and why you are comparing Mogami's inductance to Redco's capacitance?

The only things that I watch for in cheaper cables are (1) I do not want CCA and (2) some cheap cables are undersized as @amirm has measured (e.g. 12 AWG more like 14 AWG, sometimes with a thick insulation layer to hide the lack of copper).
 
With a few legacy or boutique amplifiers, total capacitance might matter.
For a few loudspeaker with very low high frequency impedance (think Apogee or some electrostatics), total inductance might matter.
 
With a few legacy or boutique amplifiers, total capacitance might matter.
For a few loudspeaker with very low high frequency impedance (think Apogee or some electrostatics), total inductance might matter.
I understand that, but he's comparing Mogami inductance to Redco capacitance... Seems like he should compare both, or at least the same parameter. Whatever.
 
Just buy lamp cord by the foot.

For sound, yes.

But lamp cord is what Christmas lights are made of and somehow they get tangled easily!

I have found that some of the nicer but not expensive brands lay down more nicely with less memory in the jacket, etc.

There is definitely the difference between buying upgraded cables for sound (not recommended) versus upgraded cables for the ability to hug the corners of walls or furniture easily (my preference).
 
I understand that, but he's comparing Mogami inductance to Redco capacitance... Seems like he should compare both, or at least the same parameter. Whatever.
Yes this is correct. I was wondering if it made a difference? From what am reading and the responses am getting it’s non sense. So that takes care of that question about wire.
 
Yes this is correct. I was wondering if it made a difference? From what am reading and the responses am getting it’s non sense. So that takes care of that question about wire.
Inductance and capacitance are two "opposite" parts of reactance. Inductors have rising impedance with frequency, so in series with the signal (that is usual for cables), will reduce high frequencies. Capacitance impedance falls with frequency, so in parallel with the load (e.g. speaker, again the usual expression for cables), will also reduce high frequencies. Usually you want to compare the inductance and/or capacitance of one cable to another; comparing inductance to capacitance is apples to oranges (at least).

See the link in my signature for several articles with examples of cables. In practice, unless you have a particularly poor amplifier/speaker combination as @Speedskater said, or a very long wire run, the only thing that matters with speaker cables is their resistance. Frequency-dependent (reactive) parts of the cable are buried by other things, mainly the speaker, and also the amplifier's output impedance. A non-issue for the vast majority of us; buy the biggest gauge that makes sense for you and be done with it.

IME/IMO/etc. - Don
 
Frequency-dependent (reactive) parts of the cable are buried by other things, mainly the speaker, and also the amplifier's output impedance.
Also the end users hearing... by 30 years of age, HF roll off has started, by 40 its much worse and by 50 it's "all over [red] rover"

As I have posted elsewhere, we are all mainly old geezers in this hobby so why bother with chasing stuff you cant hear..maximize your system to what you can hear.

I was interested in some GAN amp's that only accepted digital inputs and didnt have a DAC stage (so was an interesting way to set up a system). I mentioned this in a thread about the amps and some guy started trolling me... saying I was an idiot, couldn't I see from the independant measurements that it has a HF rolloff starting at something like 19k.

The guy couldnt understand that it didnt matter, at my age I cant hear above 14khz BUT the appeal was it would remove one (major) domain of conversion (being D->A) that would potentially help for the stuff I could hear.

So my system would simply be PC->DDC->AMP->SPEAKERS (volume controlled via PC app).

Peter
 
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Inductance and capacitance are two "opposite" parts of reactance. Inductors have rising impedance with frequency, so in series with the signal (that is usual for cables), will reduce high frequencies. Capacitance impedance falls with frequency, so in parallel with the load (e.g. speaker, again the usual expression for cables), will also reduce high frequencies. Usually you want to compare the inductance and/or capacitance of one cable to another; comparing inductance to capacitance is apples to oranges (at least).

See the link in my signature for several articles with examples of cables. In practice, unless you have a particularly poor amplifier/speaker combination as @Speedskater said, or a very long wire run, the only thing that matters with speaker cables is their resistance. Frequency-dependent (reactive) parts of the cable are buried by other things, mainly the speaker, and also the amplifier's output impedance. A non-issue for the vast majority of us; buy the biggest gauge that makes sense for you and be done with it.

IME/IMO/etc. - Don
Awesome explaintion of what I was trying to post about wires. You Hit the nail on the head. Thanks for sharing your experiences with wire. I also like buy the biggest gauge that makes sense and be done with it.
 
Inductance and capacitance are two "opposite" parts of reactance. Inductors have rising impedance with frequency, so in series with the signal (that is usual for cables), will reduce high frequencies. Capacitance impedance falls with frequency, so in parallel with the load (e.g. speaker, again the usual expression for cables), will also reduce high frequencies. Usually you want to compare the inductance and/or capacitance of one cable to another; comparing inductance to capacitance is apples to oranges (at least).

See the link in my signature for several articles with examples of cables. In practice, unless you have a particularly poor amplifier/speaker combination as @Speedskater said, or a very long wire run, the only thing that matters with speaker cables is their resistance. Frequency-dependent (reactive) parts of the cable are buried by other things, mainly the speaker, and also the amplifier's output impedance. A non-issue for the vast majority of us; buy the biggest gauge that makes sense for you and be done with it.

IME/IMO/etc. - Don
Awesome explaintion of what I was trying to post about wires. You Hit the nail on the head. Thanks for sharing your experiences with wire. I also like buy the biggest gauge that makes sense and be done with it.
Also the end users hearing... by 30 years of age, HF roll off has started, by 40 its much worse and by 50 it's "all over [red] rover"

As I have posted elsewhere, we are all mainly old geezers in this hobby so why bother with chasing stuff you cant hear..maximize your system to what you can hear.

I was interested in some GAN amp's that only accepted digital inputs and didnt have a DAC stage (so was an interesting way to set up a system). I mentioned this in a thread about the amps and some guy started trolling me... saying I was an idiot, couldn't I see from the independant measurements that it has a HF rolloff starting at something like 19k.

The guy couldnt understand that it didnt matter, at my age I cant hear above 14khz BUT the appeal was it would remove one (major) domain of conversion (being D->A) that would potentially help for the stuff I could hear.

So my system would simply be PC->DDC->AMP->SPEAKERS (volume controlled via PC app).

Peter
That makes sense. As we get older (me included) the hearing is not as sharp as it use to be. I can only hear to 20khz I think? with test tones and headphones but, in a hearing test only to 15khz. Sometimes I can hear it if the tweeter is tingy or bright sound which to me is not normal or natural.
 
Question? So I’m looking to install some in wall speaker wire. 10 gauge with a CL3 rating. It’s going to be over 50 feet and maybe near 100 feet? I will be installing it under the sub flooring of the bed room running it from one side to the other side. So am cancerned about the metal in the drop ceiling and all the other metal and wires and pipes that it my Father En-laws morse code wires and antenna outside it go above all those stuff through the subfloors woods bracing. So If it’s 50 feet or more should I be concerned if it’s not shielded? I don’t want it to pick up any RF or anything else? I have never done this kinda wiring before so am asking for some advice and help please. Am redoing the main bedroom and I can do this now. Please let me know what you think? Thanks Jeff
 
HAM radio interference is a rare but possible problem.
So twisting a zip-cord type loudspeaker cable (2 or 3 times per foot) is a good plan.
 
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