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Harman Avr-75 wont go in standby mode

stumper3819

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Hi guys,
I use an old Japan made Harman Avr-75 in a secondary system. The other day it would not respond to remote or power on at all, just sat in standby. Somehow I got it to power on with main power button on front panel, thats the only way it will power on/off. All functions seem to work from panel, nothing from Harmony or factory remote. The 4 fuses I was able to locate are all good, unfortunately thats about the limit of my electrical abilities. I know its from 1998, but its well built and besides I'm cheap and I like it. Any input would be appreciated, Thanks
 

restorer-john

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Is it in a room with CFL or LED lighting? Try operating it by remote with all the lights off.
 
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stumper3819

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Thanks for the response John, but that didnt do it. When pressing the power button on panel, its amber for a few seconds, then goes green, seemingly bypassing standby. You can hear it engage. I found manual online, did processor reset, knowingly losing my settings, all to no avail, lol. Like I said, panel controls seem to work, I can control volume from laptop. Just an inconvenience. Gives me flashbacks of have to get up to turn the TV channels.
 

Doodski

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To clarify. It would not turn on with the remote(s) and then it would not turn on with the front panel power control and then it suddenly turned on using the front panel power control?
 
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stumper3819

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It is always left in standby/amber. Yesterday it would not respond to remote, new batteries. Power on panel when pressed would be totally off or when engaged standby/amber. In my flustered state, pressing buttons, I believe it was the RF button, it engaged, light went green, and display came on. Still wont respond to either remote, and power button give me totally off or when pressed, temporary amber then green and display is on.
 

Doodski

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If I take a educated guess you might have a issue with the front panel control printed circuit board and being a older receiver there might be bad solder in the power supply regulation and at the amplifier sections too. There are service manuals available for this model online. The bad news is that unless you have experience troubleshooting electronics this one is going to be a troublesome repair because of the sophistication of the unit. My best suggestion is if you want to inspect the PCBs for bad/overheated solder, cracked PCBs or intermittent connections at the front panel PCB then go for it. This unit was fairly expensive back in the day and you might want to take it to a experienced technician to avoid damaging the unit yourself if you are not experienced with this sort of stuff. There will be specialized tools req'd like screwdrivers, a magnifier, soldering iron, solder, solder flux, a sine wave oscillator for testing the unit and a oscilloscope is very handy too for this sort of stuff too. If you don't have access to specialized tools and stuff then find a techy to do the repair.
 
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stumper3819

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Thanks for the help Doodski, I have the cover off and its extremely clean, but there are a ton of boards like you suggested. It was made in Japan in 1998, I think I paid 400 on Ubid, but I believe retail was over a grand like you thought. The panel controls work, it is used mostly to stream Amazon music, so laptop can control volume. It would probably cost more to get fixed then its worth, plus I'm not sure where I could take it. Those small tech shops have mostly disappeared. I'll suffer for now, it would be like losing an old friend, lol..Thanks again guys
 

Lawrence

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Thanks for the help Doodski, I have the cover off and its extremely clean, but there are a ton of boards like you suggested. It was made in Japan in 1998, I think I paid 400 on Ubid, but I believe retail was over a grand like you thought. The panel controls work, it is used mostly to stream Amazon music, so laptop can control volume. It would probably cost more to get fixed then its worth, plus I'm not sure where I could take it. Those small tech shops have mostly disappeared. I'll suffer for now, it would be like losing an old friend, lol..Thanks again guys
 

Lawrence

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If your remote is the type that has a small window where invisible light [u can't see it] comes out when you push a button. 1- put in new batteries,2-take cell phone set to take a picture, aim remote at camera phone, see the remote on the phone, push button on remote, if working you should see a brief burst of light on the screen of the phone.
 
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stumper3819

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After combing through my manual better, it seems my receiver is functioning properly. It is supposed to power up fully with the panel power button. Once powered up, pressing the remote power button places it in standby. Since neither the OEM or Harmony remote can communicate with it, I'm thinking I possibly have a bad IR sensor. There is an in and out for remote control on back panel. Not sure if it would work, or what I need. The jacke are small. Anyone with ideas or input would be appreciated. Thanks
 

Doodski

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After combing through my manual better, it seems my receiver is functioning properly. It is supposed to power up fully with the panel power button. Once powered up, pressing the remote power button places it in standby. Since neither the OEM or Harmony remote can communicate with it, I'm thinking I possibly have a bad IR sensor. There is an in and out for remote control on back panel. Not sure if it would work, or what I need. The jacke are small. Anyone with ideas or input would be appreciated. Thanks
The IN & OUT @ the rear panel are usually for remote control of peripheral gear like a CD player or cassette deck. Generally they come in 3.5mm size. It is possible that the receiver has a remote input for a IR sensor so that the receiver could be mounted in a cabinet with the IR sensor outside the cabinet.
 
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stumper3819

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That is correct, the manual states that is the intended purpose. Looking on Amazon they seem to be hit or miss with the reviews..amazon.com/dp/B014EDRH3G/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B014EDRH3G&pd_rd_w=vUgIw&pf_rd_p=39cbbe7c-8911-4076-85fd-8e024260e5ce&pd_rd
 

Doodski

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That is correct, the manual states that is the intended purpose. Looking on Amazon they seem to be hit or miss with the reviews..amazon.com/dp/B014EDRH3G/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B014EDRH3G&pd_rd_w=vUgIw&pf_rd_p=39cbbe7c-8911-4076-85fd-8e024260e5ce&pd_rd
Something along the lines of these is what is required.
 
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stumper3819

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I bought the cable matters one near the bottom of page for 10 bucks a little while ago. It had the best reviews, if they were real. lol I really appreciate the help Doodski, Thanks
 
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