GoldenEar Triton Reference vs. T66

[lc6]

I am interested in opinions about GoldenEar Triton Reference vs. T66 speakers.

The Reference was introduced back in 2017 and has now been discontinued. There is still a 9-12 month stock of it being sold out; prices range from $7k to $9k for a factory-boxed pair. With plenty of replacement parts available, warranty and post-warranty support should not be an issue. Many objective measurements of this speaker are available, but I trust this one the most:
NRC Measurements: GoldenEar Technology Triton Reference Loudspeakers
In particular, the listening window frequency response (FR) shows the bass extending to about 27 Hz at -3 dB (with the subwoofer level dial set to 12 o'clock):

Presumably, the bass response could be improved a bit by setting the dial to 1 o'clock or higher (see below).

The T66 was introduced in 2023, so it is in current production. It sells for about $7k per new pair (depending on whether in black or red), so its price is comparable to that of the Reference. Measurements performed at the same facility:
NRC Measurements: GoldenEar T66 Loudspeaker
Its listening window FR with the sub knob set to 12 o'clock shows the bass extension to about 33 Hz at -3 dB. The upper mid-range dips more than in the Reference:

The T66 on-axis FR with the dial set to 1 o'clock shows an extension to about 31 Hz at -3 dB:

The T66 is smaller and lighter, has a metal instead of a wood base, and a metal grille instead of a sock, so it is easier to maneuver. But I like the deeper and more powerful base, smoother FR, and 2.4 dB higher sensitivity of the Reference (not a big fan of separate subs). So, based on the data, which way to go?

 

[staticV3]

Personally, I would find the MTM layout of either the Reference or T66, and the resulting directivity error off-axis, deeply dissatisfying at this asking price, and would therefore not buy either of them.

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The frequency response of their AMT tweeter also looks really messy and in need of some further RnD

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If I had to pick one though, I'd go with the Reference for its more extended bass response.

 

[Chris Brunhaver]

Personally, I would find the MTM layout of either the Reference or T66, and the resulting directivity error off-axis, deeply dissatisfying at this asking price, and would therefore not buy either of them.
View attachment 408448
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The frequency response of their AMT tweeter also looks really messy and in need of some further RnD
View attachment 408447
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If I had to pick one though, I'd go with the Reference for its more extended bass response.

The response of the tweeter has the "fuzz" because of reflections from the rather large grille (i.e. isn't not the driver itself). it's unclear what the audible artifacts of this are.

 

[Beave]

Keep in mind that the NRC measurements of bass below about 100 or 150Hz are not guaranteed to be accurate. They might be, or they might not be. So take them with a grain of salt.

 

[cavedriver]

The response of the tweeter has the "fuzz" because of reflections from the rather large grille (i.e. isn't not the driver itself). it's unclear what the audible artifacts of this are.

and without the grill being removable on the Tritons one cannot confirm what all the issues are with the speaker. I found the highs muddy on the similar 1.R

 

[cavedriver]

Even though the crossover to the side firing woofers in those speakers is below 100 Hz, I found when I placed the very similar 1.R in my room that music with fundamentals near the crossover lacked cohesion or seemed to be coming from the sides of the speaker. I can't explain it better than that but it sucked. They went back.

 

[Oddball]

If you can find a good deal on 2 towers and 2 subs and integrate them well, that would probably work better. So for example, Revel 226 (when on sale) and pair of SVS 1000 pro ported (or similar but more value) would likely perform better. There are obviously other brands to choose from. Perhaps underestimating the Golden ear subs, but then I guess SVS 2000 pro ported.

I really like the idea of passive speaker with active sub in enclosure that is not too imposing, but they have not done it well enough. But then when going active, why not go all the way active and save even more space from speaker contamination.

 

[Mark K]

I've seen BRX and older Trion Three on sale and been wondering purchase of these plus a decent subwoofer will make the trick for my hometheater.

 

[Morpheus]

I once heard the Reference at a dealer they had a good deal on an used pair and was really interested in them . Came away very unimpressed and still kept my old Kef 205 Reference. Almost everything was already better then ( imaging and overall clarity especially) and with some judicious PEQ in Roon even the bass is much better defined and has very good extension, if you have a good stout amp ( ML n29, 50watts 8ohms class A and 100watts at 4ohm, 45sqmt room). I listen from very quiet in the middle of the night to 86 to 95 db average when I am really enjoying and am alone, and the amp is enough. Those GEs sounded a bit...home cinema, some boom and tizz, not much music.

 

[lc6]

Thanks to all who provided their opinions on this topic. I ended up getting a pair of Triton References instead of T66s. Only a few hours of listening, with speakers not in their final positions, so no in-room measurements yet. So far, I am quite impressed (although I would never claim to have golden ears ). Vocals sound very clear and natural. There does not appear to be any treble exaggeration (as shown in the top octave in the NRC graphs) or distortion. With the factory default setting of 12 o'clock on the back dial, the bass is forceful but not boomy (which I was afraid of given the ample built-in amplification, three woofers + four passive radiators). However, the sub-bass reproduction (e.g. in Terje Isungset's Fading Sun track) is not as strong as I expected. The soundstage extends well to the sides of the speakers and, with a good recording, they tend to acoustically vanish (although not entirely). The center reproduction is dead on. They are about 6 dB more sensitive than my previous towers, so at the same source volume level they play substantially louder.

One of my concerns was about the amount of idle and phantom power they consume. When their signal detectors are activated and built-in amps are in ready-to-play mode, they consume about 18 W in total. When they are inactive, the total power consumptions drops down to 7 W. These figures include several Watts drawn by another piece of equipment in network-monitoring standby mode. So, I will likely not need a remotely controlled relay to disconnect them from the power outlet when not in use.

 

[Chris Brunhaver]

Well, that fading sun track has a note at 25 Hz and these are tuned just about 30 Hz. With the high pass filter and limiting and PR alignment roll-off being pretty steep etc., 25 Hz is about 10 dB down. This is still very good but don't expect much, if anything below 30 Hz out of these.