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GoldenEar Triton Reference vs. T66

lc6

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I am interested in opinions about GoldenEar Triton Reference vs. T66 speakers.

The Reference was introduced back in 2017 and has now been discontinued. There is still a 9-12 month stock of it being sold out; prices range from $7k to $9k for a factory-boxed pair. With plenty of replacement parts available, warranty and post-warranty support should not be an issue. Many objective measurements of this speaker are available, but I trust this one the most:
NRC Measurements: GoldenEar Technology Triton Reference Loudspeakers
In particular, the listening window frequency response (FR) shows the bass extending to about 27 Hz at -3 dB (with the subwoofer level dial set to 12 o'clock):

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Presumably, the bass response could be improved a bit by setting the dial to 1 o'clock or higher (see below).

The T66 was introduced in 2023, so it is in current production. It sells for about $7k per new pair (depending on whether in black or red), so its price is comparable to that of the Reference. Measurements performed at the same facility:
NRC Measurements: GoldenEar T66 Loudspeaker
Its listening window FR with the sub knob set to 12 o'clock shows the bass extension to about 33 Hz at -3 dB. The upper mid-range dips more than in the Reference:

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The T66 on-axis FR with the dial set to 1 o'clock shows an extension to about 31 Hz at -3 dB:

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The T66 is smaller and lighter, has a metal instead of a wood base, and a metal grille instead of a sock, so it is easier to maneuver. But I like the deeper and more powerful base, smoother FR, and 2.4 dB higher sensitivity of the Reference (not a big fan of separate subs). So, based on the data, which way to go?
 
Personally, I would find the MTM layout of either the Reference or T66, and the resulting directivity error off-axis, deeply dissatisfying at this asking price, and would therefore not buy either of them.
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The frequency response of their AMT tweeter also looks really messy and in need of some further RnD
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If I had to pick one though, I'd go with the Reference for its more extended bass response.
 
Personally, I would find the MTM layout of either the Reference or T66, and the resulting directivity error off-axis, deeply dissatisfying at this asking price, and would therefore not buy either of them.
View attachment 408448
Source

The frequency response of their AMT tweeter also looks really messy and in need of some further RnD
View attachment 408447
Source

If I had to pick one though, I'd go with the Reference for its more extended bass response.
The response of the tweeter has the "fuzz" because of reflections from the rather large grille (i.e. isn't not the driver itself). it's unclear what the audible artifacts of this are.
 
Keep in mind that the NRC measurements of bass below about 100 or 150Hz are not guaranteed to be accurate. They might be, or they might not be. So take them with a grain of salt.
 
The response of the tweeter has the "fuzz" because of reflections from the rather large grille (i.e. isn't not the driver itself). it's unclear what the audible artifacts of this are.
and without the grill being removable on the Tritons one cannot confirm what all the issues are with the speaker. I found the highs muddy on the similar 1.R
 
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Even though the crossover to the side firing woofers in those speakers is below 100 Hz, I found when I placed the very similar 1.R in my room that music with fundamentals near the crossover lacked cohesion or seemed to be coming from the sides of the speaker. I can't explain it better than that but it sucked. They went back.
 
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If you can find a good deal on 2 towers and 2 subs and integrate them well, that would probably work better. So for example, Revel 226 (when on sale) and pair of SVS 1000 pro ported (or similar but more value) would likely perform better. There are obviously other brands to choose from. Perhaps underestimating the Golden ear subs, but then I guess SVS 2000 pro ported.

I really like the idea of passive speaker with active sub in enclosure that is not too imposing, but they have not done it well enough. But then when going active, why not go all the way active and save even more space from speaker contamination.
 
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