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Genelec 8361A Review (Powered Monitor)

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hvbias

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Assuming you're not using a sub, Genelec actually recommends you place their monitors close to a wall; even so much as having flush mount solutions.

Any bass boost can be corrected in the same way you've mentioned.

"A monitor with a flat frequency response in free space produces up to 6 dB higher sound level when placed against a solid wall. In a corner (two walls) this gain can be 12 dB. With three boundaries (corner close to ceiling) the gain can be +18 dB. This can be particularly seen at low frequencies."

So from the sound of it GLM does make the correction like Kii and D&D does via DSP?
 

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Sancus

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Saw one that was curved that looked amazing. I don't know who sells it, and I saw it just once, and didn't save the image, but if anyone knows what I'm talking about, please post it.

You might be thinking of this company: https://www.facebook.com/mygstands/

I don't know if they still exist though. Their website sure doesn't.

12901070_631745656991079_2565842650303730614_o.jpg
 

KaLam1ty

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"A monitor with a flat frequency response in free space produces up to 6 dB higher sound level when placed against a solid wall. In a corner (two walls) this gain can be 12 dB. With three boundaries (corner close to ceiling) the gain can be +18 dB. This can be particularly seen at low frequencies."

So from the sound of it GLM does make the correction like Kii and D&D does via DSP?
GLM is Genelec's room EQ solution, so yes. That's the main purpose of it, at least.

You might be thinking of this company: https://www.facebook.com/mygstands/

I don't know if they still exist though. Their website sure doesn't.

12901070_631745656991079_2565842650303730614_o.jpg

I was also curious about their stands for a time, but I don't believe they're around anymore. I did stumble upon another company that has a similar make, https://www.solid-tech.net/product/wave-stand-for-genelec-speakers/. But as expected, the cost to ship is quite abhorrent if you're not in EU.

Supposedly, they're working on getting a US retailer, but I haven't heard much on this.

Truly first world problems when there's quite a difficultly in finding anything non-custom, just for some massive speakers lol...
 

galanakop

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Note that AFAIK, Amir doesn't plan to compare the Genelec 8361A vs KH420 side-by-side any more, since he shipped back the 8361A to me and hasn't gotten to the KH420 yet (understandably, he has a big queue). This doesn't mean the KH420 review isn't forthcoming; just don't expect the KH420 review's subjective portion to include a side-by-side comparison to the 8361A.

I suspect the KH420 will also sound fantastic. By the measurements, it's almost identical performance in every respect except that the KH420 has a little more upper midbass power while the 8361A has more deep bass power, and of course the Genelec being coaxial has much better vertical off-axis performance which will permit a wider range of placements and listener positions than the KH420.


I use generic RCA(m) -> XLR(m) cables to connect the analog preamp outputs from my Denon AVR-X3700H to my Genelec's, and it works great! What I was describing before was using the same cables to connect digital SPDIF RCA outputs to the Genelec digital AES/EBU XLR inputs, which also works great! Just make sure you feed the inputs into the appropriate analog vs digital XLR input into the Genelec speaker, and it should Just Work ™ :) As far as I know, Denon doesn't have any digital outputs, so just feed all the (analog) preamp outputs into the Genelec analog inputs, and you should be all good!


Same here -- these Genelec Ones are IMO the perfect LCR speakers since they're truly coaxial in every sense and allows you to use the same speaker (for Left, Center, and Right) with much greater positioning and orientation flexibility than any other product.


Yes, you will be covered :) A pair of 8361A's will be more than sufficient to fill that room with amazing power from 30-20khz. If you get lucky with room modes, depending on your placement you may even get them flat down to 20-25hz but I wouldn't bet my life on it until testing in-room. In terms of mids and treble, either the 8351 or 8361 (which use the same midrange and tweeter) are more than powerful enough for anything ever in a room that size.


I'm not sure exactly what you mean by the Genelecs being "old fashioned" speakers which "have to be pulled out from the front walls"? The Genelec manuals don't seem to warn against placing them near walls (in fact they seem to encourage it!), and indeed I have my 8361A's just a few inches from the rear walls -- and they sound fantastic.



Regarding stands for the 8361A, I have commented earlier that I really like simply placing the 8361A's on art exhibit pillars, which can be ordered in virtually any diameter and height. I know the Genelec Ones are aesthetically polarizing, but I personally find them quite beautiful, and on pillars look like a modern art exhibit :)

I use the same Genelec stands you mention (well technically mine are K&M, but they're the same thing just rebranded for Genelec) for my rear 8351B's and they work great, but aren't particularly beautiful or space-efficient due to the massive square base-plate (whereas I find cylindrical pillars more aesthetically pleasing and also more space-efficient -- but maybe that's just me).
good morning echopraxia.
Thanks for the answers.
Have you connected the genelec of your signature on the Denon AVR-X3700H ???
 

echopraxia

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good morning echopraxia.
Thanks for the answers.
Have you connected the genelec of your signature on the Denon AVR-X3700H ???
Yes of course, that’s what I meant in my post you quoted, when I said “I use generic RCA(m) -> XLR(m) cables to connect the analog preamp outputs from my Denon AVR-X3700H to my Genelec's, and it works great!”

I don’t use the Denon’s Audyssey for room correction though, as I find GLM produces results that sound far better, in addition to providing more control to tune the target curve to my liking.

For this reason I plan to later upgrade to huge Genelec subwoofers (7382A) even though they cost 2-3x that of comparable performing subwoofer products from e.g. JTR or Rythmik, since GLM does such a good job integrating the subwoofer with the mains that the amount of tuning and fiddling it saves me makes it worth the cost.
 
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Trell

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Yes of course, that’s what I meant in my post you quoted, when I said “I use generic RCA(m) -> XLR(m) cables to connect the analog preamp outputs from my Denon AVR-X3700H to my Genelec's, and it works great!”

I don’t use the Denon’s Audyssey for room correction though, as I find GLM produces results that sound far better, in addition to providing more control to tune the target curve to my liking.

For this reason I plan to later upgrade to huge Genelec subwoofers (7382A) even though they cost 2-3x that of comparable performing subwoofer products from e.g. JTR or Rythmik, since GLM does such a good job integrating the subwoofer with the mains that the amount of tuning and fiddling it saves me makes it worth the cost.

One feature I would miss from Audyssey is Dynamic EQ when listening at lower volume. It would be very nice if it could be used without enabling Audyssey.

Do you use Audyssey calibration to set level and distance?
 

CMB

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I was also curious about their stands for a time, but I don't believe they're around anymore. I did stumble upon another company that has a similar make, https://www.solid-tech.net/product/wave-stand-for-genelec-speakers/. But as expected, the cost to ship is quite abhorrent if you're not in EU.

Supposedly, they're working on getting a US retailer, but I haven't heard much on this.

Truly first world problems when there's quite a difficultly in finding anything non-custom, just for some massive speakers lol...
Personally, as much I can consider spending 10K EUR on a pair of good speakers; I feel ripped of when asked to pay a price of >1K or even only about 500 EUR for what I consider to be just a piece of formed metal, tubes and screws.

Some buy already a decent pair of speakers for that price.

I join Echopraxia on the exhibit stands idea.
For me and my living room, it will be plain oak wood for 250 Eur and if I dont like it anymore I can easely recycle to a stool or feed the chimney.
 

Pearljam5000

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Personally, as much I can consider spending 10K EUR on a pair of good speakers; I feel ripped of when asked to pay a price of >1K or even only about 500 EUR for what I consider to be just a piece of formed metal, tubes and screws.

Some buy already a decent pair of speakers for that price.

I join Echopraxia on the exhibit stands idea.
For me and my living room, it will be plain oak wood for 250 Eur and if I dont like it anymore I can easely recycle to a stool or feed the chimney.
The best stand for the money
speakerstandafter-8qlvmcqfGuJ3VY49dC6OVnjFh1eq9i14.jpg
 

DSJR

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You think those tooled up stands for several hundred dollars are expensive, take a look at Tontraega stands in Europe for conventional box speakers - black painted thin wood 'pillars,' a loving story on how special they are, slivers of veneer to level them or prevent rocking and they sell for a thousand Euros a pair and people buy them despite them costing 25% or so of the speakers they're supporting. A UK 'competitor' sold nice wooden stands at £350pr I remember and when these European wonders became noticed, the prices all but doubled very quickly - didn't affect sales though apparently... (Loads wrong with that pictured 'system choice' below, but that's for another time...)

 
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FrantzM

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Personally, as much I can consider spending 10K EUR on a pair of good speakers; I feel ripped of when asked to pay a price of >1K or even only about 500 EUR for what I consider to be just a piece of formed metal, tubes and screws.

Some buy already a decent pair of speakers for that price.

I join Echopraxia on the exhibit stands idea.
For me and my living room, it will be plain oak wood for 250 Eur and if I dont like it anymore I can easely recycle to a stool or feed the chimney.
+1 On that< I would ook into monoprice catalog. They have some good speaker stands

I am surprised no one has mentioned SoundAnchors.. They used to be audiophile favorites perhaps with the audiophile price too,


Peace
 
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Jimshoe

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I ordered a pair of 8361s in white in December and am expecting them in March.

Whilst waiting I have ordered a pair of custom stands from Custom Design.

They are a pair of these but with top plates to match the size of the 8361 iso-pod and a base plate the same width and depth as the speaker itself. Both top and base plates are steel (not glass as per the picture) and the whole stand is finished in RAL 9010 - the same white Genelec use for the 8361.

When they land I'll post pictures.

Doug
 

Pearljam5000

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I ordered a pair of 8361s in white in December and am expecting them in March.

Whilst waiting I have ordered a pair of custom stands from Custom Design.

They are a pair of these but with top plates to match the size of the 8361 iso-pod and a base plate the same width and depth as the speaker itself. Both top and base plates are steel (not glass as per the picture) and the whole stand is finished in RAL 9010 - the same white Genelec use for the 8361.

When they land I'll post pictures.

Doug
Why is it taking them so long lol
 
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q2klepto

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Question - I already have 4x Monolith 15" Subs for my Home Theater with KEF Metas as the LCR

I'm thinking of swapping in the 8361a's for the METAs - what would be the best way to maximize integration with these subs?

Room is 20x13.5x8 or 2160 sf3 - listening distance about 10ft away
I'm expecting the 4xMonoliths to go down to sub 10hz in room and distortion to be < 5% @ 95db
  • Cross all of them at around 80-100hz. I dont think localization will be that important with the number of subs?
  • Do the LCR at full range and cross them at around 30-40hz, each with its own dedicated sub - and have the one "left over" sub for LFE < 30hz for LCR and 80-100hz for the surrounds/atmos

The 8361a's are pretty beefy and can go down to 30hz, i wonder if i should go for the 8351bs instead ...but i like the headroom the big ones might give me

Thoughts?
 

abdo123

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Question - I already have 4x Monolith 15" Subs for my Home Theater with KEF Metas as the LCR

I'm thinking of swapping in the 8361a's for the METAs - what would be the best way to maximize integration with these subs?

Room is 20x13.5x8 or 2160 sf3. I'm expecting the 4xMonoliths to go down to sub 10hz in room and distortion to be < 5% @ 95db
  • Cross all of them at around 80-100hz. I dont think localization will be that important with the number of subs?
  • Do the LCR at full range and cross them at around 30-40hz, each with its own dedicated sub - and have the one "left over" sub for LFE < 30hz for LCR and 80-100hz for the surrounds/atmos

The 8361a's are pretty beefy and can go down to 30hz, i wonder if i should go for the 8351bs instead ...but i like the headroom the big ones might give me

Thoughts?
Very simple. You seal all the ports on the 8361A to get the most extension out and then you do nearfield measurements and cross at the F3 of the 8361A.

This is assuming that the room treatment is porportional to the amount of money you’re spending on speakers and you barely have any modal issues anymore.

Otherwise i would cross at 80Hz.
 

q2klepto

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Very simple. You seal all the ports on the 8361A to get the most extension out and then you do nearfield measurements and cross at the F3 of the 8361A.

This is assuming that the room treatment is porportional to the amount of money you’re spending on speakers and you barely have any modal issues anymore.

Otherwise i would cross at 80Hz.


I understood some of this lol

The room will have substantial treatment 17 2'x4'x3" rockwool absorbers, 2 corner bass traps, 12 2x2' bidirectional diffusers and a 10' x 21" x 27" bass trap

im afraid itll be too much but i guess ill REW it up
 

abdo123

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I understood some of this lol

The room will have substantial treatment 17 4x8x3" rockwool absorbers, 2 corner bass traps, 12 2x2' bidirectional diffusers and a 10ft x 21" x 27" bass trap

im afraid itll be too much but i guess ill REW it up
With that kind of budget you kind of want to build fake walls out of porous absorption material and use tuned membrane absorbers on top of the fake walls for the frequency range below 100Hz. Don’t bother with 3’inch thick stuff it’s kind of useless.

Basically if you need the 4 subs to reduce the seat to seat variation in the sub-bass frequencies then you cross them high at 80Hz. If not, you cross them at their natural -3dB point once the ports are sealed.

Once everything arrives feel free to make a dedicated thread and tag me on it.
 

q2klepto

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With that kind of budget you kind of want to build fake walls out of porous absorption material and use tuned membrane absorbers on top of the fake walls for the frequency range below 100Hz. Don’t bother with 3’inch thick stuff it’s kind of useless.

Basically if you need the 4 subs to reduce the seat to seat variation in the sub-bass frequencies then you cross them high at 80Hz. If not, you cross them at their natural -3dB point once the ports are sealed.

Once everything arrives feel free to make a dedicated thread and tag me on it.

Too late lol already ordered the 17 absorbers (5 for front screen wall, 4 on side walls, diffusers on ceiling)

i think theyll cover anything 500hz+, while the bass traps cleans up the rest
 

abdo123

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Too late lol already ordered the 17 absorbers (5 for front screen wall, 4 on side walls, diffusers on ceiling)

i think theyll cover anything 500hz+, while the bass traps cleans up the rest
No worries, it’s very easy to get the rough end of a deal when the salesman is very determined to make money by selling you their ‘one size fits all’ products instead of giving you genuine advice that might push you away from their products.

I’m not going to spend time explaining why these things aren’t the best purchase out there, but basically for a home cinema you want it to be a reflection free zone for the entire spectrum. You have like 11 drivers already scattered around the room that will provide plenty of ambiance on their own if necessary.
 
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