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Genelec 8361A Review (Powered Monitor)

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  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 9 1.2%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 5 0.7%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 37 4.8%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 716 93.4%

  • Total voters
    767
Yep, that cheap switch, or similar, would be enough.
Just route the digital signal to the AES/EBU input.
You shouldn't even need an impedance transformer.
:)

P.S. Can the 9320A be controlled remotely?
A remote control or through the software on the computer?
Thanks
I don't use a remote, but I'm not certain if there is one to link in with the 9320A. I don't believe so though.

However, if you have GLM 5 on your computer, you can control volume etc from that. My Dell XPS-15 is linked into the 9320A by usb and does a good job here.


Sorry, I should also have said that the cheaper option wouldn't really work in my set-up as I use one coax input for the DAB on my tuner and the optical final (fourth) input for the FM/AM on that same tuner (the latter linked through an analogue to optical converter). Hence, I do need all four inputs of the RDL. Others obviously might not, and then they'll literally be quids in. :)
 
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A WiiM Pro Plus and an optical switch, (optical/coax converter if needed) would suffice me thinks.

Gives someone a analog input with a good ADC, coax input, optical input (expandable with switch) and excellent streamer to boot.

*edit forgot a remote included with the Plus
 
A WiiM Pro Plus and an optical switch, (optical/coax converter if needed) would suffice me thinks.
Personally I need a USB interface to connect to the computer (Apple).
The Genelec controller does that too.
A more expensive alternative would be a RME ADI-2/4 Pro SE.

P.S. There are, of course, very cheap USB-S/PDIF interfaces and more expensive USB-AES/EBU interfaces, but none of them also have both analog and digital inputs like the Genelec controller or the RME.
 
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Personally I need a USB interface to connect to the computer (Apple).
The Genelec controller does that too.
A more expensive alternative would be a RME ADI-2/4 Pro SE.
I was thinking feeding the suggested into the Genelec controller would do?

I feed my optical switch into my ADI-2 fsr BE. Because I’m crazy, three optical ports get my phono outputs and a the fourth a WiiM Mini. Coax from my Denon cd/dvd into RME. A second computer can also be fed via my PUC on AES.

Lotsa ways to meet our individual needs less expensively I guess.
 
Personally I need a USB interface to connect to the computer (Apple).
The Genelec controller does that too.
A more expensive alternative would be a RME ADI-2/4 Pro SE.

P.S. There are, of course, very cheap USB-S/PDIF interfaces and more expensive USB-AES/EBU interfaces, but none of them also have both analog and digital inputs like the Genelec controller or the RME.
And, of course, the 9320A offers the studio level addition of the Genelec 8550A head-monitors. Promising a new high point in headphone monitoring.
 
<snip>

P.S. There are, of course, very cheap USB-S/PDIF interfaces and more expensive USB-AES/EBU interfaces, but none of them also have both analog and digital inputs like the Genelec controller or the RME.
I only wanted point out the RDL switch box >$1k w/tax US presented for the posters @Dgob use case (as originally stated) switched a few optical sources and a coax. The alternative I proposed is able to do that. Granted it doesn’t have “studio level” “DNA” but the bits will be the same, no? Pro Plus also provides an additional analog in to digital converter if of interest and remote switching.

May be helpful for others looking to feed signals in and format convert no matter the digital capable monitor in a cost effective manner.
 
I only wanted point out the RDL switch box >$1k w/tax US presented for the posters @Dgob use case (as originally stated) switched a few optical sources and a coax. The alternative I proposed is able to do that. Granted it doesn’t have “studio level” “DNA” but the bits will be the same, no? Pro Plus also provides an additional analog in to digital converter if of interest and remote switching.

May be helpful for others looking to feed signals in and format convert no matter the digital capable monitor in a cost effective manner.
Hi Muddywaters, I see your point and reference around DNA. Here is more where I was trying to go with my reference:

In essence, selectors are more about choosing, and switchers are about routing

When it comes to hi-fi audio systems, a digital selector is more likely to leave the digital signal untouched. This is because a selector's primary role is to choose the input source without altering the signal itself. It's designed to pass the chosen signal through as-is, maintaining its original quality and integrity.

A digital switcher, while it can also route signals, often includes additional processing or features, such as converting formats or managing multiple outputs. These extra steps could potentially affect the original digital signal.

For audiophiles, a high-quality digital selector or even a passive selector (with no active components) is often preferred to ensure the signal remains as pure and untouched as possible.
 
Hello Dgob, interesting semantics;

"selectors are more about choosing, and switchers are about routing"

Easy to verify if any harm came to any bits nowadays with the help around here at ASR.

Before switching my routing or is that routing my switching? I will trust but verify. ;) For about a quarter of the cost with return privileges on Amazon anyone can find out if it works or not and address concerns over potentials, and signal integrity that audiophiles need worry about.
Hi Muddywaters, I see your point and reference around DNA. Here is more where I was trying to go with my reference:

In essence, selectors are more about choosing, and switchers are about routing

When it comes to hi-fi audio systems, a digital selector is more likely to leave the digital signal untouched. This is because a selector's primary role is to choose the input source without altering the signal itself. It's designed to pass the chosen signal through as-is, maintaining its original quality and integrity.

A digital switcher, while it can also route signals, often includes additional processing or features, such as converting formats or managing multiple outputs. These extra steps could potentially affect the original digital signal.

For audiophiles, a high-quality digital selector or even a passive selector (with no active components) is often preferred to ensure the signal remains as pure and untouched as possible.

I've had occasion to buy and use a RDL piece of gear that solved a problem in the past (analog) for me I'm not knocking the equipment I'm sure it's solid and robustly built. Looks professional too. I'm just a home user.

You do bring up a good point though about ensuring that the added "features" the WiiM provides such as peq, eq and room correction capabilities aren't engaged, if so desired. Easily accomplished via phone or pad.

Good listening to you sir!
 
Hello Dgob, interesting semantics;

"selectors are more about choosing, and switchers are about routing"

Easy to verify if any harm came to any bits nowadays with the help around here at ASR.

Before switching my routing or is that routing my switching? I will trust but verify. ;) For about a quarter of the cost with return privileges on Amazon anyone can find out if it works or not and address concerns over potentials, and signal integrity that audiophiles need worry about.


I've had occasion to buy and use a RDL piece of gear that solved a problem in the past (analog) for me I'm not knocking the equipment I'm sure it's solid and robustly built. Looks professional too. I'm just a home user.

You do bring up a good point though about ensuring that the added "features" the WiiM provides such as peq, eq and room correction capabilities aren't engaged, if so desired. Easily accomplished via phone or pad.

Good listening to you sir!
I assume we're talking about lexical semantics here. :)

I suppose an analogy could be the distinction between a tunnel (selector) and a train (switcher/router) that goes through that tunnel. Although I must admit uncertainty about its applicability in this particular instance.
 
I have now spent many hours listening to 8361a, 8351b and 8331a in different rooms. The sixes are just much better in my opinion. The ability to effortlessly carry so much bass nearfield (1.8m) is remarkable. The 700w racetrack woofer delivered coaxially is a thing of engineering beauty. My experience listening to bass-heavy rock, pop, metal is much more enjoyable on the 8361a.

I don't mean this to be a full comparison. Each 'One' has a place. If you like bass and can pick any of them, the 8631a is a no brainer. Stretching your budget to reach the sixes is worthwhile imo. (Within your economic limits of course.)
 
Mort

Try it directly, for example. through an impedance converter to connect the bluray player to the coax connector of the 83xx genelec, you can find a whole new OUTER DIMENSION again! and a new audio heaven, I mean the amount of audio data on bluray discs is often multiples of what the music industry gives in bit rates in lossless formats on streaming services.

Bluray movies and music are something completely incomprehensible joy how pure the SOUND QUALITY is as an experience to experience from digital genelecs completely digitally!
 
Try it directly, for example. through an impedance converter to connect the bluray player to the coax connector of the 83xx genelec, you can find a whole new OUTER DIMENSION again! and a new audio heaven, I mean the amount of audio data on bluray discs is often multiples of what the music industry gives in bit rates in lossless formats on streaming services.

Bluray movies and music are something completely incomprehensible joy how pure the SOUND QUALITY is as an experience to experience from digital genelecs completely digitally!
Ha. Now you are just trolling us. You'll be horrified to know I'm feeding them directly from a Wiim Ultra spdif coax.
 
Mort

I'm not really scared!!! I'm giving suggestions on how to increase the audio quality to a greater experience. It's worth trying the bluray player connection at the back. It's time to enjoy many sources.

I have, Genelec pairs 1237a, 8340, and 8260a and 7071a subwoofer. And 9320a control unit. and a pair of Neurik 110/75 impedance converters for AES/EBU cables and coax connections. And i have eversolo dmp 6 master edition + apple tv 4

I'm not trolling anything on this forum, I'm just telling the truth.
 
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Mort

It is not worth listening to flat sound for a long time, glm enables thousands of thousands of different sound editing music experience styles. The sound can be further improved with GAIN/Q/HZ adjustments and even more tightened up the sound quality/character size and atmosphere and credibility, and melody towards realism with manual adjustments like this. It is not worth being satisfied with that single first measurement when it comes to room correction at all, because you have much more finer possibilities than you can ever grasp on a tray.

GLM software is a real cornucopia when it comes to thousands of different editing, so it is impossible to get bored with your genelecs even in the long term

Let's all just be brave to step onto new paths of experience.
 
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I have now spent many hours listening to 8361a, 8351b and 8331a in different rooms. The sixes are just much better in my opinion. The ability to effortlessly carry so much bass nearfield (1.8m) is remarkable
But you could get that same bass sensation with the 8351b in a room smaller than yours and/or closer to the front wall?
 
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That said, someone could get that same bass sensation with the 8351b if used in a room smaller than yours and closer to the front wall?
We're talking subtleties for sure. With small subs they are challenging to distinguish at 90-95db.
 
I'm trying a change using a genelec 8260 with an apple tv.

The speaker stands are homemade with a cardboard roll about 1.5cm thick and a few different colored fabrics riveted to the mdf boards. I like the burgundy and gray combination.

Is it bad?
 

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