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Genelec 8361A Review (Powered Monitor)

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That's exactly what is NOT recommended by Genelec because of SBIR (cancellations), have a look here.
Instead, leave the speakers where they are and move the couch towards the middle of the room. Not exactly to the center because typically this area is dominated by cancellations, while at the back wall you will be sitting in a bass dominant area. Also by reducing the distance to the speakers the sound will be less influenced by the room (better early vs. late sound ratio, currently marked red in the report).
Regarding the absorbers this looks fine to me. I have placed several smaller absorbers and also GIK bass traps at the ceiling of the back wall in my small office and reduced RT60 a lot. I remember a quote by an acoustician who said better apply too much absorption than too little.
Thank you for everyone‘s comments so far.
I tried various placements of the speakers up to 120 cm away from walls, but ended up with Genelecs recommendation of placing close to the wall, not the least because this sounded the best, in particular bass extension, but gave better GLM measurements. Now they are about 13 cm from the wall which is as close as possible due the feet of the stands not allowing closer positioning to the wall.
Any more comments as to GIKs approach? Too much bass absorption, not enough absorbers, placement only on the rear wall ok, etc.?
Again, thank you in advance for your feedback, I appreciate it.
 
Here's the guidance directly from Genelec. I previously stated ~1m from wall - I should have been more precise and recommended > 1.1m. Regardless, having Genelecs in three rooms in my own home and having experimented with on-front-wall vs away-from-front-wall placement, I stand by my earlier recommendations. However, each user should experiment and place according to preferences and measurements.
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Here's the guidance directly from Genelec. I previously stated ~1m from wall - I should have been more precise and recommended > 1.1m. Regardless, having Genelecs in three rooms in my own home and having experimented with on-front-wall vs away-from-front-wall placement, I stand by my earlier recommendations. However, each user should experiment and place according to preferences and measurements.
View attachment 401771
Could you please provide a link to the page or document that you took that picture from? I’d like that additional content for follow up reading.
 
Could you please provide a link to the page or document that you took that picture from? I’d like that additional content for follow up reading.

It's a few places online. A version without the subwoofer, but identical with regard to the main monitor, appears in the Genelec 8340A user/setup manual - Figure 5 on the web page linked just below - though I would guess the company might have used the same image in other models' manuals as well (including, I assume, the manual for the subwoofer itself):

 
 
Could you please provide a link to the page or document that you took that picture from? I’d like that additional content for follow up reading.
Be aware that's the guidance for using subs, without subs the guidance is close to wall, as previously suggested. Close to wall with DSP sounds best to me, more headroom, less cancellations.
 
I don't have subs with my 8351b's, and they definitely sound best close to the front wall in my approximately 19' x 15' (5.8M x 4.6M) room.

Genelec's recommended range for close-to-wall placement is slightly confusing because their minimum recommended distance of 5 cm/2 in is obviously from the rear of the speaker to the wall, while their maximum recommendation of 60 cm/23.5 inches appears to be from the front of the driver or baffle based on their drawings and diagrams. So for the minimum distance to wall from the baffle, you have to add the individual speaker's depth to that 5cm minimum.

For my 8351b's that results in a minimum distance of about 32cm, whereas for the deeper 8361a's that results in a minimum distance of about 40cm. So the actual range for close-to-wall placement isn't very large: 32-60cm for the 8351, giving a range of only 28cm; and 40-60cm for the 8361, giving a range of only 20cm.

In my case I have tried the 8351b at both ends of that range, and for reasons I don't understand, I prefer them in my room with the front baffles about 50cm from the wall - a few cm closer to the front doesn't seem to make any difference, but when I push them back so they are at or near that minimum of 32cm from the wall, I subjectively have found that the sound got noticeably worse.

When I run GLM, I have a notable null around 110Hz, but after a lot of experimentation with placement I have determined that it's SBIR from the side walls - the measured bass response at my listening position is surprisingly invariant when I move the speakers a few cm forward or back, and even when I adjust their toe-in by a few degrees. I have even temporarily removed my ceiling treatments, front-wall treatments, and rear-wall treatments in various permutations, and none of that has impacted that 110Hz situation.

Conversely, I can easily shift the frequency of that 110Hz null by placing the speakers closer to or farther from the side walls. But the only way to actually reduce or eliminate the problem is to move them closer to the side walls, pushing the relevant frequency up high enough that the speakers are more directional there, reducing or eliminating the reflected sound and therefore the null.

But in that scenario the speakers are so far apart from each other relative to my listening distance that it causes a lot of other problems. And to be completely honest, that 110Hz null is so narrow (and its magnitude is significant but not crazy) that I can't even hear it during normal music playback.

This is also one of several reasons I haven't bothered with subs: if I had a stubborn null that was in the 50-80Hz range and that I could reliably detect during normal listening, I'd be all in for one or two subs. But 110Hz seems a bit high for that fix to me, and I'm not at all interested in paying a huge amount of money for a pair of W371a's. I'm happy with the bass performance as-is.

As for my listening distance, I'm about 60% of the way back in my room when measured from speaker baffles to the rear wall of the room - or about 2/3 of the way back if you measure from front wall to rear wall. I used to listen from slightly farther back but I felt a nagging perception of being too far away from the perceived plane of the performance and I much prefer the experience now that I've moved my listening seat forward by about 30cm from where it was originally.

YMMV of course.
 
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Thanks again for your posts. While there have been plenty of comments on correct speaker placement, hardly any as to GIK’s approach to my room situation as per my original post. Let’s assume for the purpose of discussion that my speaker placement is fine (it is in fact according to Genelecs recommendation close to the wall, speakers cannot be moved closer to each other as screen for Beamer is between them and the couch should not really be closer to the speakers), so we can focus on room treatment, that would be great.
So, is GIK’s suggested treatments ok? Enough/too much bass traps, enough/too much absorbers, any diffusers necessary, what would a more minimal approach look like/
Looking forward to your opinions and suggestions that are very welcome. Maybe with your help I can get my room ready for some serious listening over X-mas.
 
Thanks again for your posts. While there have been plenty of comments on correct speaker placement, hardly any as to GIK’s approach to my room situation as per my original post. Let’s assume for the purpose of discussion that my speaker placement is fine (it is in fact according to Genelecs recommendation close to the wall, speakers cannot be moved closer to each other as screen for Beamer is between them and the couch should not really be closer to the speakers), so we can focus on room treatment, that would be great.
So, is GIK’s suggested treatments ok? Enough/too much bass traps, enough/too much absorbers, any diffusers necessary, what would a more minimal approach look like/
Looking forward to your opinions and suggestions that are very welcome. Maybe with your help I can get my room ready for some serious listening over X-mas.

I can't give you terribly specific feedback on their particular recommendations for your room, but for what it's worth I can share my own absorber/room treatment experiences, using a mix of absorbers including GIK panels:

- I have 2x GIK 2x4 foot panels on my ceiling, about halfway between the speakers and my listening position. Each panel is 6 inches thick, and they are hung from the ceiling with approximately 3-inch long brackets, creating an air gap between the top/back of each absorber and the ceiling. My understanding is that when you create such an air gap between an absorber and the ceiling or wall, you slightly increase the lower range of the frequencies the panel can absorb. I have found these absorbers highly effective in reducing reflections and enhancing a perception of sharpness and focus in the soundstage and individual voices and instruments. This perception is not just based on my memory from before they were installed. I also removed them once to see if it made any difference and the difference was obvious to me. Still subjective, so take this with a grain of salt. But that was my experience.

- I also have 2x of the same GIK panels on the front wall, behind the speakers. When I have removed them I have experienced a slightly different and inferior quality to the sound, but I am far less confident in this than I am in the effect of the ceiling panels. I have also tried moving these panels around, shifting them side to side along the back wall so they are directly behind the speakers, more to the side of them, and so on - zero perceived difference, and very little difference in room measurements with a mic and correction software. I also have quarter-circle "triangle" bass traps in the corners, and as far as I can tell they don't seem to make things better or worse (I inherited them so I figured why not try them, and I've just left them there as they look kind of nice to me - never underestimate the mind-calming effect of a room treatment that you can take a "who cares" attitude about :) ).

- I also have some custom-made panels that consist of 6" thick rockwool inside stretch jersey (aka t-shirt material) pillow cases. These fit snugly into openings in some Ikea Billy bookcases I have, which are along the room's back wall. So that's 6" of absorption plus about 4" of air gap behind them inside the bookcases. I made these because the back corners of my room cannot physically accommodate corner traps (the entry door is in one back corner, and the room's one window is in the other). I have no idea if these have any effect, because I'm too lazy to take them out and then move a ton of books into the resulting empty spaces.

- I used to have a different brand's (Audimute, I think) 2" thick, 2x4 foot panels on the side walls - one on each side wall at the first reflection point, mounted with 2-inch standoff brackets for a 2 inch air gap. These definitely impacted the sound - however, after a long time of being hesitant to try removing them, I finally did based on Amir's and others' comments in various discussions here, and I found that removing them had no discernible effect on soundstage precision and focus - but removal did result in a widening of the perceived soundstage, which was very nice. So I've left them off.

- I have one of those same 2" thick 2x4 panels on the front wall in the center, between the speakers and above my equipment cabinet. I've listened with and without it many times and I always end up feeling like vocals and other center-panned elements are slightly more forward, focused, and realistic-sounding with the panel than without. Could very well be placebo, but again, it looks okay, breaks up the otherwise-blank expanse of wall I look at when listening, and at worst does no harm sonically. So I've kept it there.

- Finally, when my room was first built, it had dreadful flutter echo. It was truly awful. Then the wall to wall carpet was laid - nothing especially thick, not even any pile, just a berber-style with a standard pad underneath. That made a huge difference - as in without any other room treatment the carpet all by itself made the room a very decent (if not yet ideal) listening space.

So my personal takeaway is twofold:

1. It is essential - and very easy - to eliminate audible flutter echo, and in general to reduce midrange and treble reverberations to a significant degree, so you can enjoy a nice proportion of direct sound and experience a nicely focused soundstage. This can be done pretty easily with carpet, furniture, pillows, heavy curtains, absorber panels, and so on - pretty much anything at all.

2. It is much more difficult to meaningfully absorb bass frequencies in a typical home listening space. You might be able to achieve some good taming of bass room modes with thick aborbers 6 inches or thicker, plus perhaps some air gaps in your installation. But my sense is that you might need a lot of them, and it might help to have limp-membrane absorbers and/or absorber/diffusers rather than thick broadband absorbers, as by the time you get enough of the latter in the room, you might end up over-absorbing midrange and treble frequencies.

Hope this is of some use!
 
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Not an expert by any means, but the GIK suggestion looks reasonable. Controlling the first reflections is important and relatively easy. On the other hand, as @tmtomh says the difficulty of taming bass room modes is hard to overstate. I have the GIK 17" bass traps, and though they definitely help, you can still see room modes. Another line of bass traps in the floor to ceiling corner would not IMHO be crazy.
 
Thanks again for your posts. While there have been plenty of comments on correct speaker placement, hardly any as to GIK’s approach to my room situation as per my original post. Let’s assume for the purpose of discussion that my speaker placement is fine (it is in fact according to Genelecs recommendation close to the wall, speakers cannot be moved closer to each other as screen for Beamer is between them and the couch should not really be closer to the speakers), so we can focus on room treatment, that would be great.
So, is GIK’s suggested treatments ok? Enough/too much bass traps, enough/too much absorbers, any diffusers necessary, what would a more minimal approach look like/
Looking forward to your opinions and suggestions that are very welcome. Maybe with your help I can get my room ready for some serious listening over X-mas.
This is somethingI can help with as we do a lot of acoustic treaments. It is a loaded question and it depends a little bit on goals.

Bass! This is loaded topic to begin with. In general, bass traps have pros and cons and it is one possible solution for some bass problems but not the only solution. First solution is Listener placement. We talk a lot about room modes but forget problemsome room modes happen at certain locations in the room. Simple solution is don't put the listeners in any of these bad areas, which are theoretically at the 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 points of any dimension. I say theoretically because most people don't have the perfect sealed, rectangular room. In room open to other areas, etc they can happen at other areas. If you have built a dedicated room then these can be easily predicted where they happen. If your seating is in a good location with no major frequency dips caused by room modes then bass traps are not needed for most and you can fix the roblem with EQ. Without subwoofers this is a little trickier because you will get a different bass responses whether the right speaker is playing the bass, the left speaker is playing the bass or both are playing the bass. Using sub(s) is beneficial to get consistent bass. One sub is fine if you only care about one listening postion. Find a good location for that one seat, good location for sub and then EQ. If you want consistent bass in multiple listening locations multiple subs are needed.

What if you can't place your seating in good locations? Here is where bass traps can help. The problem with bass traps is to do them right they can take up a lot of space in the room and they do decrease overall bass output. So, subs with extra headroom is often needed. Typically with bass traps we build them into risers and behind false walls. Are the GIK bass traps a good solution for your room is tough to say without measurements at your seating location. I would bet money GIK uses bass traps in all their designs. Here are some comments from Floyd Toole in his home without bass traps. You don't need SFM but will take more manual tweaking between the subs. Post #508

As far as acoustic treatments on the walls and ceiling. This is quite variable depending on goals. You can truly sculpt your imaging and soundstage. Some generalizations. The practice of treating first reflections with absorption is not that simple anymore. As the poster above noted when he removed them his soundstage became so much wider. As a generalization it depends on the off axis response of your speakers and where tresponse will be at the first reflection. What research has show is the reflections can add to our enjoyment of the material if that reflection is similar to the on axis response. So speakers with good off axis response you might not treat the first reflection, possibly use diffusion or a combo panel which can absorb some frequency range and reflect or diffuse others. A speaker with poor off axis response at the first reflection point is often treated with absorption or a combo panel. This was common years ago when speakers typically didn't have good off axis response. Most speakers have poor off axis response in the vertical dimension so carpet on the floor and absorption panels on the ceiling is common. Your speakers being coaxials do not have poor off axis response in the vertical dimension. So something different might be done on the ceiling or nothing at all. I would bet GIK put absorption on the ceiling routinely not taking your speakers into consideration.

Other comments, Speaker Boundary Interference Response (SBIR). The diagrams shown for speaker placement do not show all the methods dealing with SBIR. SBIR will cause a dip in frequency response because the reflected wave off the wall will collide with the direct wave and cancel out that frequency. Moving the speakers more than a meter from the wall is done assuming the crossover is 80hz (or 85hz with Genelec) to the sub. The further the speaker is moved from from the wall the lower in frequency that dip will occur. Moving them more than a meter means that dip will happen lower than 80hz. Then having the sub closer than 1 meter mean you will not get a dip in the overall response. However, if you are not using a sub you will still get that dip, just lower than 80hz depending how far from the wall.

To correct SBIR without a sub it is typically easier to put your speaker closer to the wall with acoustic treatment on the wall behind the speaker. The closer the speaker is to the wall the higher in frequency the dip will occur. Make sure you use absorption thick enough to try and absorb the sound at that frequency. If you put the speaker very close the speaker might block the relfected sound wave. Another method is mount your speakers into a baffle wall.

Lastly where do we place acoustic treaments and how much? a very loaded question and customers have different preferences. It is still beneficial to use some treatments or have something on walls/ceiling so the room is not very reverberrant. It doesn't have to be at first reflection points on the side wall or ceiling. Behind your projector screen is a good place to put some absorption. Some on the side walls scattered if not trying to absorb firt reflections. Almost always we will put some on the back wall at the first reflection point. Usually, it is not as pleasant to hear the reflections coming from behind us, so that is often absorbed but diffusion can also work. Placing these acoustic treatments we can sculpt the imaging and soundstage. Do you want greater envelopment? More focus in the front soundstge? etc. If you have various panels you can definitely play with them and see what you prefer.
 
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This is my first post here. I currently have a pair of 8361s set up in my listening room for an in home demo. I have owned and heard many excellent speakers over the years. I have a different perspective from many members here in that I have a soft spot for bbc inspired speakers as well as quad es. I listen mostly to classical music. I agree that 8361s have a remarkable amount of clean, excellent, well integrated bass. astounding really for a speaker of their size. They can play much louder than I would ever care to listen. They certainly appear to have no distortion and to be exceptionally clear at all volumes. The detail presented is amazing. I really can hear things on recordings that I had missed before. I have no doubt that they are everything Amir says and that their designers wanted. Nevertheless, my experience is that the speakers are poorly suited for classical or other acoustic music. I think that strings sound harsh and piano brittle. Depsite the excellent measurements and clear virtues of the speaker, the e string on a violin is artificial sounding to me, harsh, unpleasant and cold. I find myself dreading the high notes. The beauty of live acoustical music is just not conveyed by these speakers In my room. The speakers are incredibly impressive, but do not companionable.

Now, all of this is without equalization. I have a GLS system arriving today, and it may improve things. I understand that I am posting a contrary view here. I do not doubt that these speakers are surely all they are intended to be for non-acoustic music, but they produce a sound, at least without eq, that is little like real acoustic instruments. I also understand that most here will take me to be an out of touch subjectivist ignoring the objective measurements. I do not intend to be anti-scientific or disrespectful in any way, but merely to report my short experience experience listening to the speakers. I hope that eq will fix the problems, for the many virturpes of the speakers are obvious, but I would not call them musical speakers, at least for classical music. Do others here who listen to classical music disagree?
So much truth in your words:
Science or no science - at my friend Peter in Cologne with his large Altec Lansing 604 loudspeakers and the tweeter horn (all from the 60s!) it simply sounds better than at my home with the monitors (albeit passive and (hopefully!) more “musical” sounding than Genelec!) and the scientifically proven flatter frequency response.
300 liters of volume and a 15 inch full range driver + Horn-tweeter + 2 large dipole subwoofers are just not that easy to beat with modern studio gear! Peter is just closer to an electrostatic headphone experience than me. Simply more information at the listening position. More live - less „HiFi“!!!
 
How is everyone physically lining up their 8361a?

I am using mine with the Genelec stands and isopod coupling. With all the curves of the speaker, I find it difficult to line up in any plane vusually.

With GLM, one speaker had big issues 100-250Hz from floor bounce - worked out it was tilted forward, but I could not realky see that from listening position 2.5m away. Staring at them, the OCD in me can not quite work out if the are pointing directly at me or are angled in multiple planes.
 
not going to happen, they focus on sustainability and beryllium is the opposite of that on just about every level, also it's toxic to work on or when overheated
Also they are into real/sensible engineering and thus as it should don't care about unobtainium audiophile materials and pseudoengineering as whether the first break up mode of a tweeter is at 40 vs 30 kHz.
 
Also they are into real/sensible engineering and thus as it should don't care about unobtainium audiophile materials and pseudoengineering as whether the first break up mode of a tweeter is at 40 vs 30 kHz.
That's what Focal is claiming
I don't know if it's true but beryllium sounds a bit different to me then other tweeters :
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That's what Focal is claiming
I don't know if it's true but beryllium sounds a bit different to me then other tweeters :View attachment 404789View attachment 404790
Exactly, typical audiophile terms like transients, microdetails and faster. ;) About your personal experience as I have written to you already a couple of times, you always hear the total loudspeaker, so mainly frequency response and directivity and Focal tends to design for a wider directivity on their tweeters (with usually also a discontinuity to their mids or midwoofers). A similar sized Genelec or Neumann usually has higher directivity there but also less of a discontinuity.
 
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