Genelec 8340 + 7350

[srrxr71]

Oh yes you are spot on! Genelec's Grade report is amazing, it wowed and educated enough to do some more research and proper measurements. I was quickly able to find the problematic areas in my room with the help of my Grade report. I realized that monitors these expensive work best in treated rooms. The bass traps alone made a huge difference and I also moved the speakers and the sub several times until I got everything sound nice and tight.

You are also right about localization. I was initially offered a pair of the 7360s, sadly I thought I only needed one until I ran sine waves sweeps. I quickly learned from a prominent mix engineer that for audiophile/critical listening, having two subs is the way to go for sure. The said engineer was running a pair of PSI 17Ms and a pair of their A125 Subs. I heard the system myself and I can say the cohesiveness alone makes it worth it.

So I found this little gem which was life changing. One interesting thing is that time of flight delay.

So I had to adjust it in ways that seem irrational until you do some math. Genelec says even 1ms error will collapse the soundstage. By experimenting with that number I found this is true.

Getting back to math. Please correct me if I’m wrong. So if the speed of sound is 330m/s then in millisecond sound would travel 0.33m or approximately 1 foot.

These adjustments are in hundredths of millseconds. I had to adjust my right monitor delay by 0.38ms. That’s roughly about 5”. Sounds about right too (passes the smell test). After I did that the image actually followed the pattern. Maybe it’s not exactly in the position that it shows but it’s even and consistent on both sides.

For level I used this and an SPL meter at the listening position (basically the genelec mic and the GLM dB number on the bottom left).

Another thing is ensuring the tonality is same between both monitors. I had to adjust angulation of toe in and downwards angulation. I use the genelec 8000-409b stands which are too high even the lowest position for domestic listening situations.


After I got it right I couldn’t get to sleep and stayed up until 3am listening to my handiwork. Hehe.

 

[Scielienta]

With 8340 without subwoofer, try manual shelving in GLM after the GLM calibration , lowering everything above 100 Hz and print - 5 dB .
That way you get a frequency response thats prefered in Harmans investigations. Try it and see If you need a subwoofer. This trick can be done with every SAM speaker.

View attachment 222279

Last week I tried it and now it is much better than before. Subwoofer requirements still there but the results after playing with the freequency response is quite noticeable. Thank you for the advice!

 

[Scielienta]

I have the 8340 and 7360 system. I hope you have solved this issue but if you haven't - biggest thing improvement you can do is your room acoustics. I invested in room treatment and the difference is night and day. I would say, start with bass traps, get good quality and as much as you can. Make sure to fill all corners, then also treat the side walls. You will hear a difference! The Adams are not in the same league as the Genelecs - I wouldn't trust their bass response.

I definetely will buy some acoustic panels and start to apply in my room very soon. Every person recommend room treatment before moving on to buy subwoofer. Eventually I will buy 7350 or 7360 but would like to fix my room acoustics to see the results. Have you ever heard the 7350 before decided to buy 7360?
Still have the Adam T5V and its price performance ratio is unbeateable but it is not in the same leauge as Genelec as you said.

 

[Tangband]

Last week I tried it and now it is much better than before. Subwoofer requirements still there but the results after playing with the freequency response is quite noticeable. Thank you for the advice!

Nice to hear ..
The prefered Harman bass tilt is very real.
You could also go in manually edititing GLM and set all corrections to half of the values that GLM suggested . An example - If GLM sets -16 dB at 45 Hz , you print - 8 dB instead. Dont change anything else than halving every value.
In certain cases the sound might get a bit better, or the opposite.

Owners of 7350 or 7360 should also try lower the crossovers to 55 Hz , and put every correction for GLM in the bass to zero.

 

[NiagaraPete]

Hello,

I’ve got a pair of Genelec 8340 with GLM kit for my 4 by 4 meter home studio and after calibration with the GLM kit I am quite impressed by the result so far, but I have a problem with the bass response. 8340 has ability to go down to 38hz on paper which is lower than any monitor that I had before, but somewhat I can’t feel/hear the power of lower frequencies like i used to hear with my old Adam T5V. I have non treatment room that there are only couple of foams on the wall where my monitors placed 5cm away from them. Also my monitors sitting on acoustic foams on my desk. Now I am planning to do some acoustic treatment but still want to get subwoofer.

I am considering to get Genelec 7350 subwoofer but I have read that it is integrated with 8320 and 8330, so that does it mean it won’t work well with the 8340? Is anyone using 8340 + 7350 combo? Would be nice to hear your experience before proceed further. 7360 is integrated well with 8340 but it is doubled the price of 7350, so if it is sufficient enough, I would like to buy 7350.


Thank you

5 cm is very close to the wall. Move them out a bit. There are placement guides on the Genelec site.

 

[Scielienta]

5 cm is very close to the wall. Move them out a bit. There are placement guides on the Genelec site.

That’s what I did after post my question on here. Thank you

 

[NiagaraPete]

That’s what I did after post my question on here. Thank you

Did it help? With my Genelec’s I’ve found they need some room.

 

[Scielienta]

Did it help? With my Genelec’s I’ve found they need some room.

Well, I have installed couple of foams to the wall where I put my monitors, so I after move out a bit I didn’t notice any change tbh, but room treatment is must as far as I learned.

 

[YSC]

Did it help? With my Genelec’s I’ve found they need some room.

I think 5cm is exactly what genelec recommend to place them.. as close as possible to put them to the wall to move the affected frequency to bass and then use tone or eq control the boost

 

[NiagaraPete]

I think 5cm is exactly what genelec recommend to place them.. as close as possible to put them to the wall to move the affected frequency to bass and then use tone or eq control the boost

That is the absolute bare minimum.

 

[NiagaraPete]

I think 5cm is exactly what genelec recommend to place them.. as close as possible to put them to the wall to move the affected frequency to bass and then use tone or eq control the boost

I found with my 8050b's that 25cm works best for me. I listen near field most often.

 

[srrxr71]

Nice to hear ..
The prefered Harman bass tilt is very real.
You could also go in manually edititing GLM and set all corrections to half of the values that GLM suggested . An example - If GLM sets -16 dB at 45 Hz , you print - 8 dB instead. Dont change anything else than halving every value.
In certain cases the sound might get a bit better, or the opposite.

Owners of 7350 or 7360 should also try lower the crossovers to 55 Hz , and put every correction for GLM in the bass to zero.

So far I have added +2dB under 100Hz and -2dB over 1500Hz to get a Harman curve.

I’m wondering if that makes sense.

My subs (2x 7360) are crossed over at 100Hz for 2 reasons.

1. The monitors have dips around 100Hz which i’m hoping the stereo subs can work over. However I feel like when my ceiling acoustic panels show up that problem might be solved. Then I may be able to crossover at 55Hz.

2. My mains are 8341s. With acoustic panels and even otherwise I suppose I play my music loud. Even at 105dB. The panels do reduce perceived music volume. I can at times see my 8341s clipping. For that reason and perhaps to reduce intermodulation distortion I wish to let the subs handle most of the bass. However it’s hard to tell which driver/frequency range is causing the clipping. It could be the midrange drivers and not the woofers. It’s rare enough that I don’t wish I got the 8351s instead. I like the smaller look of the 8341s it helps keep them “disappeared”.

However, what you wrote has given me food for thought. Doesn’t hurt to try.

My left 7360 has a huge bump of 10dB at 35Hz. I bet there are people who pray for that. It sounds so powerful but not exactly accurate. However accurate might be considered anemic by some people. The +2dB boost has helped a lot but more bass isn’t a bad thing.

The right 7360 has a huge bump centered around 90Hz. That one i’m glad is corrected.

I suppose I could play with the parametric equalizer on the left one and give it a nice upward slope towards the bottom.

If I had the W371s I would not hesitate for a moment to take the crossover to 55Hz.

If Genelec would throw us a small bone and give them any discount it would be beyond tempting to order. But as it stands I’ll be reasonable and avoid that expense as my system sounds incredible already.

I wish Genelec would do Black Friday deals. My credit card on the other hand does not. End game level though.

 

[Tangband]

So far I have added +2dB under 100Hz and -2dB over 1500Hz to get a Harman curve.

I’m wondering if that makes sense.

My subs (2x 7360) are crossed over at 100Hz for 2 reasons.

1. The monitors have dips around 100Hz which i’m hoping the stereo subs can work over. However I feel like when my ceiling acoustic panels show up that problem might be solved. Then I may be able to crossover at 55Hz.

2. My mains are 8341s. With acoustic panels and even otherwise I suppose I play my music loud. Even at 105dB. The panels do reduce perceived music volume. I can at times see my 8341s clipping. For that reason and perhaps to reduce intermodulation distortion I wish to let the subs handle most of the bass. However it’s hard to tell which driver/frequency range is causing the clipping. It could be the midrange drivers and not the woofers. It’s rare enough that I don’t wish I got the 8351s instead. I like the smaller look of the 8341s it helps keep them “disappeared”.

However, what you wrote has given me food for thought. Doesn’t hurt to try.

My left 7360 has a huge bump of 10dB at 35Hz. I bet there are people who pray for that. It sounds so powerful but not exactly accurate. However accurate might be considered anemic by some people. The +2dB boost has helped a lot but more bass isn’t a bad thing.

The right 7360 has a huge bump centered around 90Hz. That one i’m glad is corrected.

I suppose I could play with the parametric equalizer on the left one and give it a nice upward slope towards the bottom.

If I had the W371s I would not hesitate for a moment to take the crossover to 55Hz.

If Genelec would throw us a small bone and give them any discount it would be beyond tempting to order. But as it stands I’ll be reasonable and avoid that expense as my system sounds incredible already.

I wish Genelec would do Black Friday deals. My credit card on the other hand does not. End game level though.

About loudspeaker position before using GLM: Always start with setup of your two 8341 ( or any other speaker ) in the room without subwoofers. Make sure they play good bass from listening position without subwoofers. Put them on a stand about 60-63 cm from the floor . Play with the distance to frontwall, and the distance between both speakers until they sound optimal with music, listening in stereo. Then put your two Genelec 7360 directly on each inside of the L and R speaker, push the subwoofers backwards against the wall , and turn them on - now do the GLM calibration.
—————-

This can be done after the calibration:

You could also try different crossover frequencies for your speakers . If you put your speakers on individually mode , you can use the HP filter at 80 Hz for 8341 and set the LP filter for subwoofers at 75 Hz . It might sound better , or not .
Always remember that if the sound is better without any GLM correction , then the corrections are to many or to big . This is easy to correct manually in GLM .

If you have a speaker - to wall - to listener reflection below 80 Hz thats not a fundamental room resonance ( resonance = wall to wall many times ) then its best to set that correction to zero and it will sound better.
—————-

How to optimize digital gain structure with external digital volume control at the source:

If you havent tested this yet - further improvement in SAM monitors can be done with a digital signal into the speaker , using a computer and a DDC with spdif or AES/EBU electrical digital output, daisychaining all four speakers. The group sensitivity ( can be edited and seen when you save the info to the speakers in GLM ) should be set at 0. Use the volume slider in GLM instead to lower the signal - the slider can be set to -25 dB and then saved into the speakers if you want to use an external digital volumecontrol from your computer or other digital source. The GLM volume slider is AFTER the dsp crossover and using this instead of lowering group sensitivity ( apparently before the dsp crossover ) will give you a better sound quality with a digital source.

This video is much better than the owners manual :

A bunch of DDC:s tested here :

PHIREE U2S 2019 & Douk Audio U2 Review and Measurements (Digital USB to S/PDIF Interfaces)

PHIREE U2S 2019 & Douk Audio U2 Review and Measurements (Digital USB to S/PDIF Interfaces) Update March 2022: Added comparison with the Douk Audio U2. Here is a quick review of the PHIREE U2S 2019 digital interface. This is basically some USB to S/PDIF converter that allows you to get USB...

www.audiosciencereview.com

Edit: I use my 8340 and 7350:s with a DDC with spdif 75 Ohm output and have no problems with dropouts in sound.

 

[paudio]

Were the T5V positioned differently than the 8340s? They are both rear ported. Have you quantified which frequencies are lacking compared to the T5Vs? The suck out/room mode could be corrected with repositioning within the room?

 

[Scielienta]

Were the T5V positioned differently than the 8340s? They are both rear ported. Have you quantified which frequencies are lacking compared to the T5Vs? The suck out/room mode could be corrected with repositioning within the room?

I have both 8340 and T5V but it is hard to answer your question because my T5Vs are connected in to my dj controller and never felt to corrected due to purpose of use. But T5V respond more aggressively when I place them close to the wall. Bass become muddy and boomy.
Hope someone will answer your question properly.

 

[srrxr71]

About loudspeaker position before using GLM: Always start with setup of your two 8341 ( or any other speaker ) in the room without subwoofers. Make sure they play good bass from listening position without subwoofers. Put them on a stand about 60-63 cm from the floor . Play with the distance to frontwall, and the distance between both speakers until they sound optimal with music, listening in stereo. Then put your two Genelec 7360 directly on each inside of the L and R speaker, push the subwoofers backwards against the wall , and turn them on - now do the GLM calibration.
—————-

This can be done after the calibration:

You could also try different crossover frequencies for your speakers . If you put your speakers on individually mode , you can use the HP filter at 80 Hz for 8341 and set the LP filter for subwoofers at 75 Hz . It might sound better , or not .
Always remember that if the sound is better without any GLM correction , then the corrections are to many or to big . This is easy to correct manually in GLM .

If you have a speaker - to wall - to listener reflection below 80 Hz thats not a fundamental room resonance ( resonance = wall to wall many times ) then its best to set that correction to zero and it will sound better.
—————-

How to optimize digital gain structure with external digital volume control at the source:

If you havent tested this yet - further improvement in SAM monitors can be done with a digital signal into the speaker , using a computer and a DDC with spdif or AES/EBU electrical digital output, daisychaining all four speakers. The group sensitivity ( can be edited and seen when you save the info to the speakers in GLM ) should be set at 0. Use the volume slider in GLM instead to lower the signal - the slider can be set to -25 dB and then saved into the speakers if you want to use an external digital volumecontrol from your computer or other digital source. The GLM volume slider is AFTER the dsp crossover and using this instead of lowering group sensitivity ( apparently before the dsp crossover ) will give you a better sound quality with a digital source.

This video is much better than the owners manual :

A bunch of DDC:s tested here :

PHIREE U2S 2019 & Douk Audio U2 Review and Measurements (Digital USB to S/PDIF Interfaces)

PHIREE U2S 2019 & Douk Audio U2 Review and Measurements (Digital USB to S/PDIF Interfaces) Update March 2022: Added comparison with the Douk Audio U2. Here is a quick review of the PHIREE U2S 2019 digital interface. This is basically some USB to S/PDIF converter that allows you to get USB...

www.audiosciencereview.com

Edit: I use my 8340 and 7350:s with a DDC with spdif 75 Ohm output and have no problems with dropouts in sound.

So I use a topping D10b as my DDC and it’s great. Been fully digital since almost the beginning of getting my 8341s.


I’ll have to try different crossover points after I treat my ceiling. I think that’s where all the 90-110Hz dips are coming from.


On the topic of not correcting under 80Hz, it’s pretty interesting and likely going to yield more pleasurable listening. I’m not that confident yet but I can tell when calibration is off the bass sounds so powerful. I have +10dB boosts at 30Hz on one sub and 60Hz on the other.

So far I’ve just given 0-200Hz a +3dB shelf. These are great studio monitors but for home listening giving that boost make everything sound sweeter.

One problem I have is wall resonance near the subs. So i’m going to cover the walls with a monster bass trap and put the subs in front of them. I don’t know if this is a good idea. It will hopefully resolve the wall resonances but I know it will rob SPL. After I get that done I’ll experiment with cutting some of the corrections down. Either in half or just get rid of them.

My subs are currently placed as you suggested.

As for height unfortunately they are on the Genelec 8000-409B stands which are too tall and I have to point them down. If the stands were lower it might take those dips into a lower band.

Although I heard that lowering the GLM volume helps it seems some members have found the power amp section runs at full power all the time. People say they hear a hiss no matter what they select on the GLM volume. Ideally I would minimize volume control in the digital source and use the GLM volume control. Let the DSP operate on the full 16 or 24 bits as the case may be. I have Windows pad the bits when I use my PC as a source. Using an iPhone as a source I want to keep it maxed out. In fact the main volume control i’m using is the Blusound Node. Not a great idea. I have an extension to the GLM volume control and maybe I should just mount it near my listening chair again.

My main issue at this point is with the treatments my maximum listening position SPL is not as high as I would like it to be but I think the solution is simple. Either sit closer or just learn to appreciate what is already a large enough SPL.

This concept that your end game system must be able to blow the roof off the house its just certain moments that one wants that or bragging rights.

The concept of letting under 80Hz run free is interesting and my brief experience with it says that there is some subjective improvement with it. I do like tight bass though but that’s more of a recording studio sound if i’m diving into mixes. For just listening pleasure probably it’s better to let it run free. As long as it doesn’t cloud my midrange why not have powerful deep bass especially if the room is giving it to me for free? Lots to think about.

Edit: It seems there is continuum between the studio sound and the what we grew up in Hi-Fi systems. The uncalibrated sound is like excellent Hi-Fi the studio sound is excellent and controlled. I think the middle point is where you can still make out the bass guitar notes without difficulty but with as much of the Hi-Fi bass as possible.

 

[soundspy]

it should be, and when utilizing boundary gain I can get the 7040A rated 30hz @-6db to in room flat 27hz, I believe the 22hz -6db 7350 in nearfield usage with boundary gain can get the 20 hz flat

Hi! I’m waiting for my 8331 to be delivered but still hesitant about my sub choice. 7350 vs 7360. Small treated room, 40 square meter. Can you please elaborate what do you mean by boundary gain? Right now, I feel 7350 is the right one for me. I don’t need big SPL but was worried about that the 7350 is “only” 22Hz so this made me curious. Thanks a lot!!

 

[YSC]

Hi! I’m waiting for my 8331 to be delivered but still hesitant about my sub choice. 7350 vs 7360. Small treated room, 40 square meter. Can you please elaborate what do you mean by boundary gain? Right now, I feel 7350 is the right one for me. I don’t need big SPL but was worried about that the 7350 is “only” 22Hz so this made me curious. Thanks a lot!!

When you push the sub really close to the wall, it will have around 6db boost due to the reflected sound is mostly in phase with the bass note, so wave addition making it 4-6db louder than in anechoic chamber, as such you can just use eq like GLM to tame it back down to level, but the 22-20 hz roll off from 7350 shoul be boosted enough that it can do 18-20hz in room.

For my own exp even the 7040 have enough bass for what o wanted. The extra few hz, even missing won’t make you feel like missing any content 99% of the time

 

[mkt]

In-room measurement of 8331s LRC, 8320 SR/SL and 7350 sub in a small (tiny) 5.1 setup. Seems fine unless you want more SPL

 

[soundspy]

When you push the sub really close to the wall, it will have around 6db boost due to the reflected sound is mostly in phase with the bass note, so wave addition making it 4-6db louder than in anechoic chamber, as such you can just use eq like GLM to tame it back down to level, but the 22-20 hz roll off from 7350 shoul be boosted enough that it can do 18-20hz in room.

For my own exp even the 7040 have enough bass for what o wanted. The extra few hz, even missing won’t make you feel like missing any content 99% of the time

Thanks, thats good information. I am pretty sure I will be happy with the 7350. Cheers