Genelec 8331 : Trinnov VS GLM Genelec (page3)

[patoulol]

Hello,

 

[staticV3]

Technically, best sound with the 8331A will be achieved using the AES/EBU input, which neither the Motu nor the Focusrite provide.

An inexpensive solution would be Computer->SMSL PO100 Pro->Coax to AES cable->8331A.

The PO100 Pro provides volume control on your computer via UAC2.

You can find even cheaper USB to AES converters on places like eBay and AliExpress, but I do not know if they support UAC2 volume control.

With how inexpensive they are, I'd just give them a try:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004414698168.html

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006145951871.html

 

[patoulol]

Thank you

what is UAC2? Windows sound control?

Do you have a link to buy coaxial cable to AES?

 

[staticV3]

what is UAC2? Windows sound control?

USB Audio Class 2.

It's a USB spec that enables things like hardware volume control via USB commands.

If your USB device supports UAC2 hardware volume control, then the default volume slider/control in Windows and macOS will automatically switch to controlling UAC2.

If your USB device does not support UAC2 hardware volume control, then in macOS, volume will be locked to 100%.

In Windows, volume control will continue working in normal applications like Spotify, Chrome etc, but as soon as you use ASIO or Wasapi Exclusive, volume will be locked to 100%.

If your USB device supports UAC2, then volume control will always work even when using ASIO or Wasapi Exclusive.

 

[EERecordist]

Congratulations!

You might look at the Genelec GLM - Genelec Loudspeaker Management system. It allows room calibration with a calibrated microphone. It is a system that can grow to a sub and more channels. Your dealer should be able to advise.

 

[AnalogSteph]

There is a whole bunch of suitable interfaces in this price range - it would be useful to know what kind of system you have and what the application is going to be. Some interfaces work better on a Mac than on Windows or vice versa, and some drivers will work fine in a DAW but be finicky in general use.

If you're the volume pot type, I might also look at a Tascam US-2x2HR (or UAA Volt 1), but if you don't mind an encoder the Audient iD4 MkII should be a good one as well.

 

[Matthias McCready]

My monitors take AES inputs, I just purchased a USB/AES converter off of Ebay, $40 shipped. It works great - at some point when I get around to it, I will probably use a stream deck as a volume control, so far I have gotten by without that though.

 

[patoulol]

Thank you for your answers.

I use a Windows 10 (no mac)
my target : listen to music with deezer and foobar

I'm afraid of breaking my speakers with the Windows PC contrôle volume.

an error happens quickly.

 

[Matthias McCready]

Thank you for your answers.

I use a Windows 10 (no mac)
my target : listen to music with deezer and foobar

I'm afraid of breaking my speakers with the Windows PC contrôle volume.

an error happens quickly.

As the Genelecs are both active and a commercial audio tool, rest assured that there is a lot of driver protection going on under the hood, I would not worry about blowing them up.

As far as interfaces go, since your speakers have AES inputs - that is probably the best way to get in - not because more conversions would be readily audible with todays equipment, but for the sake if simplicity and cost - staying digital is easier and cheaper.

That being said I had a dickens of a time finding something budget friendly that was AES - lots of professional products have AES outputs, heck I use AES every day at work, but for my mixing setup at home I don't need a $10k digital console or an expensive RME device. Most devices I found that had AES outputs were $1k plus, which seems somewhat absurd when it is all 1's and 0's anyways! It is digital, so it either works as advertised or it REALLY doesn't!

Hence I ended up with a $40 ebay option, note the particular one I recieved was happy as clam with mac, but with Windows it did not work out of the box - I opened it up and saw a chip number --- which so happened to be an expensive Emotive unit, and they had a driver for Windows on their website. So some a little digging might be required if you go that route

 

[patoulol]

As the Genelecs are both active and a commercial audio tool, rest assured that there is a lot of driver protection going on under the hood, I would not worry about blowing them up.

As far as interfaces go, since your speakers have AES inputs - that is probably the best way to get in - not because more conversions would be readily audible with todays equipment, but for the sake if simplicity and cost - staying digital is easier and cheaper.

That being said I had a dickens of a time finding something budget friendly that was AES - lots of professional products have AES outputs, heck I use AES every day at work, but for my mixing setup at home I don't need a $10k digital console or an expensive RME device. Most devices I found that had AES outputs were $1k plus, which seems somewhat absurd when it is all 1's and 0's anyways! It is digital, so it either works as advertised or it REALLY doesn't!

Hence I ended up with a $40 ebay option, note the particular one I recieved was happy as clam with mac, but with Windows it did not work out of the box - I opened it up and saw a chip number --- which so happened to be an expensive Emotive unit, and they had a driver for Windows on their website. So some a little digging might be required if you go that route

Is this the same ebay product that @staticV3 shared above? if I get bored digitally, how do I connect the two Genelecs together?

 

[Joachim Herbert]

As suggested by @staticV3 use a DDC like the PO100 pro and a cable like the Casa-T SPDIF>AES to connect PC and speakers.

If you care for "analog" volume control you might want to look at GLM (which you should get anyway) plus Genelecs neat heavy metal volume control.

This gives great visual and tactile feedback of volume setting and provides optimized volume control according to Genelec.

Edit: My 8361a started up with 100 percent volume two or three times. No damage done except my wife was pretty much shocked (as was I).

 

[staticV3]

I'm afraid of breaking my speakers with the Windows PC contrôle volume.

It's easy enough to safely test if your DDC has UAC2 volume control.

Use software like REW to create a sine tone (250Hz for example) at low amplitude (e.g. -60dBFS).

Put the .wav file into Foobar, set the output to Wasapi Exclusive, then hit play.

While the test tone is playing, try changing the volume using Windows' default volume control. If the amplitude of the test tone changes with it, then your DDC supports UAC2.

BTW, using GLM or the dip switches and knob on the back of the 8331A, you can set the sensitivity of your monitors so that even with the DDC set to full volume (0dBFS Peak), the monitors will have comfortable loudness.

That way, it's impossible to get a "volume shock" if you set volume in Windows to max by accident.

 

[patoulol]

As suggested by @staticV3 use a DDC like the PO100 pro and a cable like the Casa-T SPDIF>AES to connect PC and speakers.

If you care for "analog" volume control you might want to look at GLM (which you should get anyway) plus Genelecs neat heavy metal volume control.

This gives great visual and tactile feedback of volume setting and provides optimized volume control according to Genelec.

Edit: My 8361a started up with 100 percent volume two or three times. No damage done except my wife was pretty much shocked (as was I).

Thank you again!

ouch it will increase the bill

Why do I have to buy the GLM?

I'm not a fan of the equalization for a near field listening because you hear less of the acoustics of the room

 

[patoulol]

It's easy enough to safely test if your DDC has UAC2 volume control.

Use software like REW to create a sine tone (250Hz for example) at low amplitude (e.g. -60dBFS).

Put the .wav file into Foobar, set the output to Wasapi Exclusive, then hit play.

While the test tone is playing, try changing the volume using Windows' default volume control. If the amplitude of the test tone changes with it, then your DDC supports UAC2.

BTW, using GLM or the dip switches and knob on the back of the 8331A, you can set the sensitivity of your monitors so that even with the DDC set to full volume (0dBFS Peak), the monitors will have comfortable loudness.

That way, it's impossible to get a "volume shock" if you set volume in Windows to max by accident.

ah ok I understand

I have an umik microphone

 

[staticV3]

I have to buy the GLM?

No.

If you want a physical volume knob, then you can get a generic USB or Bluetooth knob. It'll also control UAC2 hardware volume if your DDC supports it.

 

[staticV3]

I have an umik microphone

Not required to test UAC2 or set your 8331A's sensitivity, but nice to have nonetheless.

 

[Grotti]

Thank you again!

ouch it will increase the bill

Why do I have to buy the GLM?

I'm not a fan of the equalization for a near field listening because you hear less of the acoustics of the room

GLM would be mandatory for me with a monitor like this. When you don't want to use or upgrade later on it's ok, but it seems to me like buying a car with four-wheel drive and to just use two-wheel drive

 

[patoulol]

GLM would be mandatory for me with a monitor like this. When you don't want to use or upgrade later on it's ok, but it seems to me like buying a car with four-wheel drive and to just use two-wheel drive

ok I'll buy it then

 

[patoulol]

to recap

SMSL PO100 Pro
Casa-T SPDIF>AES
GLM
Génélec 9310BM

 

[patoulol]

I didn't understand how to connect the speakers together if I switch to digital Is there a cable?