Killingbeans
Major Contributor
Well the vivid for some reason looks ridiculous to me..
It does look like some sort of blob creature. I'm not super keen on the design either.
Well the vivid for some reason looks ridiculous to me..
yea.. the Giya G1 and 2 looked amazing, while this... er..It does look like some sort of blob creature. I'm not super keen on the design either.
That's what I said:It does look like some sort of blob creature. I'm not super keen on the design either.
.. if speakers were built by Barbapapa
yea.. the Giya G1 and 2 looked amazing, while this... er..
Well that was kinda the point of my quoted section. For the 8030C the "down low" spec is actually "Long term max SPL ≥96 dB".
We can check if this spec makes sense by looking at the 8331A. The "long term" spec for the 8331A is 99dB. If we look at that S&R THD test and average the values from 50-100hz we get 96.17dB for 50-100hz. That makes sense. The S&R test is a bit more stringent, because it sets a max of 10% THD and is anechoic. Spec is in half space and goes up to the limiter, which no doubt allows higher SPLs than 10% THD for low bass.
So the Genelec specs are a good real world estimate. You can expect 1 8030C to max out at ~96dB @ 1m in half space for tracks with a good amount of bass, and you'll only get close to 104dB with a sub or with a track that has very little bass.
Just wondering. If won lottery even if not with w371 why not going 8341/51 with a 7350/60? That would be my end game setup in dreamIn have a set of 8030C in a 35m2 living room. In my experience, max sound pressure is sufficient. Personally, I don't like to play louder than 90db (says SPL meter on my phone and tablet). I tend to max out around 85db, and that is quite loud, with some headroom. The 8030 does that just fine. Please note that in my situation, the "room modes" add some DB's to the lower bass where the 8030's output is limited. Room modes are corrected with a DSP, using REW and umik-1.
To me, only improvement could be, deeper bass. Below 50hz, the 8030 drops off. Should I win a lottery, I guess there will 8340's.
With respect to the looks, I very much like the looks of the 8030 model, directly mounted on a thin mike stand, without isopod. The sound quality, the bass compared to the size, these 8030's look like miracles to me.
LolJust wondering. If won lottery even if not with w371 why not going 8341/51 with a 7350/60? That would be my end game setup in dream
Just wondering. If won lottery even if not with w371 why not going 8341/51 with a 7350/60? That would be my end game setup in dream
A looong time ago I saw a presentation from a former chief architect from Intel. Some funny comments about the Pentium 4 power consumption aside ("you can't compete with charcoal"), he said about Nvidia's business outlook in gaming:
I guess he did not consider bitcoin mining and ML back then....
- "At some point, your eyes don't get any better", implying ... not good.
So, why not the 8341/51 with w371? Well, at some point, your ears do not get any better ;-) Also, the living room does not get bigger, unless of course, the lottery also caters for that. Other thing about 8341/51, the looks are less compatible with my living room.
I think the 8330 vs 8331 would show the price difference for coaxial 3way and 2way more appropiately, the difference between 8330 and 8030 is what you buy for GLM, I'd say if you prefer using UMIK and REW to DIY with 3rd party sw EQ you better off save up a lot of money going 7050/7040+8030I'm still wondering how much is the Ones series better than the 8000 series considering the huge price difference View attachment 182754View attachment 182755
It isnt GLM or DIRAC, but an $100 UMIK-1 and free REW download gets you 80% of the way to try out room correction. I think that is pretty close to weekend experimentation territory (understanding budgets may differ). Perfect with the 8030c as long as you use a PC as a source or can hook up a PC/laptop for the duration of the experiment.I wonder how big the improvement is going to either GLM or Dirac. Both bring in costs, not something I regularly do as "Friday afternoon experiment". IIRC, the minidsp dirac live can be had for about 500 euro.
It isnt GLM or DIRAC, but an $100 UMIK-1 and free REW download gets you 80% of the way to try out room correction. I think that is pretty close to weekend experimentation territory (understanding budgets may differ). Perfect with the 8030c as long as you use a PC as a source or can hook up a PC/laptop for the duration of the experiment.
If it's at all helpful, the early roll off switch on the 8030 gives a 12dB/oct LR slope centered at 85Hz. You only need to find a sub with a 12dB/oct lowpass filter; there's no need to look for one that offers a highpass because the speakers can do it.
No expert but my own use pairing with the 7040A I am engaging both the -4dB bass tilt which counters the boundary gain and the bass roll off to make it work best without ~100-200hz humpSubwoofer crossover newbie question...
In the graph below, is this Genelec 8030 'Bass Roll-Off' setting (bottom green line) close enough to an 85Hz LR (or LR2?) high-pass at 12dB/octave?
It looks about -3dB at 85Hz. Wouldn't it be -6dB at 85Hz for an LR 12dB?
View attachment 183238
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The subwoofer I will probably get (SVS SB-1000 Pro) has low-pass slope adjustment (6dB, 12dB, 18dB, 24dB) as well as PEQ.
I will try using this Genelec Bass Roll-Off DIP switch for the 85Hz (?) high pass. On the SVS subwoofer, can anyone suggest what crossover low-pass settings should theoretically level this high-pass?
I'm a bit surprised you need those two 8030 switches in addition to the default high-pass filter of the 7040. I would have guessed the 3 together would have taken it down too much between 50 - 200Hz. I am learning (will be my first sub). I'll get a mic and REW at some point but I don't want to get an external crossover if possible.No expert but my own use pairing with the 7040A I am engaging both the -4dB bass tilt which counters the boundary gain and the bass roll off to make it work best without ~100-200hz hump
Same here before I got the umikI'm a bit surprised you need those two 8030 switches in addition to the default high-pass filter of the 7040. I would have guessed the 3 together would have taken it down too much between 50 - 200Hz. I am learning (will be my first sub). I'll get a mic and REW at some point but I don't want to get an external crossover if possible.
I considered the 7040 but I'm hoping I can get extra value and extension from the SVS SB-1000 Pro by sacrificing balanced i/o and the Genelec-Genelec integration.
not sure, but with the UMIK1 I can optimize as which is best without EQ, which works fine for meThe 8030 manual says, "Bass Roll-Off control: –4 dB step @ 55 Hz"
That doesn't seem to match the graph either, unless it means -4dB from the -3dB tolerance point (-7dB total at 55Hz) or something.
Maybe they chose that because it adds up with the woofer's natural roll-off to something like a standard high-pass slope that can be matched with subwoofers.