Genelec 8030C Studio Monitor Review

[somebodyelse]

(Only if you can make the effort to leave from your chair and push the footswitch. If not, surely you can buy some device with a remote that push it for you )

It doesn't need to be a footswitch. Anything with latching contacts will do, like a toggle switch or one of the many wireless relay options. Or a USB controlled relay for that matter. https://www.amazon.co.uk/usb-relay/s?k=usb+relay

 

[Pancreas]

Very expensive, actually I have to finish the payment of two dental implants and should expect to mid 2025 to get it.

The decoration chief manager at home (girlfriend) was totally argument-resistant against 7050 sub.

No matter I explain her it goes lower and probably more accurate, 500€ less expensive… she still find “it looks horrible like an industrial air cooler”

Fortunately to me, she loves 8030C/G Three shape so I can be happy with at least preserving my main speakers

Genelec subs

 

[Kyle_PL]

7350 is useless for what I want as it has no remote, it has to be used as a hub, which I don't want to do.

1) "remote"? ... its controlled by GLM software (when connected to GLM kit by ethernet, and GLM kit is connected by USB to PC)
2) "hub"? Like "central control hub"? No it's not a "hub". When all system connected digitally (by AES/EBU) subwoofer, and any monitor is independent "brick". You can mute what You want. You can connect interface -> left monitor -> right monitor -> sub if You want (by AES/EBU).

ps. https://www.genelec.com/9101b-wireless-volume-controller

 

[Miguelón]

but those are bypass footswitch, that means more cable and clutter. I'd rather have an app or remote that can mute sub only

You can find probably a switch to couple with a remote. BTW, I’ve just red a post wrote by Somebodyelse with a link to this devices.

How can I quote the name of a member in ASR in such a way that he knows he was quoted?

 

[AnalogSteph]

Genelec subs

LOL, though I'm thinking more like 1930s art deco tombstone radio, like this Delco model 3201:

I'm not entirely sure why the Genelec subs are that funky looking, actually. I guess it saves on material and the designer liked his art deco? It certainly gives a very 1930s-1950s retrofuturist vibe.

 

[Kyle_PL]

I'm not entirely sure why the Genelec subs are that funky looking,

Physics. The look, they have in ... "dark place". Genelecs are ugly, but they are not for "looking".

I guess it saves on material

... Yes, because they cost $100 ... PLEASE

 

[somebodyelse]

How can I quote the name of a member in ASR in such a way that he knows he was quoted?

Start with @ followed by the member name (without a space between them) - after a few characters it will prompt with matching member names so you can pick one.

 

[Pancreas]

@somebodyelse

Can you offer me a sub with remote control technology? Kindly of course

 

[somebodyelse]

when connected to GLM kit by ethernet

GLM uses a serial connection (RS485 IIRC), not ethernet, although it does use the same cables. You daisy chain one to the next instead of staring out from an ethernet switch.

 

[Pancreas]

GLM uses a serial connection (RS485 IIRC), not ethernet, although it does use the same cables. You daisy chain one to the next instead of staring out from an ethernet switch.

Aren’t we on an 8030c non GLM thread tho?

GLM aint gonna work with my speakers

 

[Kyle_PL]

This is true - 8030c will not work.

GLM uses a serial connection (RS485 IIRC),

Thank You for this info, but ... who cares? The point is: subwoofer is not "central hub".

You daisy chain one to the next instead of staring out from an ethernet switch.

Yes.

 

[Miguelón]

Start with @ followed by the member name (without a space between them) - after a few characters it will prompt with matching member names so you can pick one.

Humm. Let’s try @somebodyelse … aha, it works!

Thanks!

 

[Pancreas]

Maybe I need the advice from @somebodyelse

 

[Miguelón]

LOL, though I'm thinking more like 1930s art deco tombstone radio, like this Delco model 3201:

I'm not entirely sure why the Genelec subs are that funky looking, actually. I guess it saves on material and the designer liked his art deco? It certainly gives a very 1930s-1950s retrofuturist vibe.

Not so far from that:

I think the design is from the same Harri Koskinen that made the monitors and barely all in Genelecs. Finnish and other Scandinavian decoration is more in the Bauhaus line than art deco IMHO.

 

[somebodyelse]

@somebodyelse

Can you offer me a sub with remote control technology? Kindly of course

Neumann KH-750 is the only one I can think of, and isn't cheap. Neumann's software can switch the bypass over the network, or you can use https://github.com/schwinn/khtool

If you don't want to use a wired remote switch with one of the subs with a footswitch/bypass switch input you could use something like:

• a 433MHz remote relay with a keyfob style remote
• a ZigBee relay if you use ZigBee for home automation
• a WiFi/Bluetooth relay controlled by phone app

Most of the relays have 3 contacts: Common (COM), Normally Open (NO) and Normally Closed (NC). You would connect this to a 1/4" TS plug, probably sleeve to COM and tip to NO but check the sub manual to be sure. The relay modules above also need a power supply (not supplied). They're just from a quick search of Amazon - many others are available and may have the PSU supplied or built in.

 

[EasyC]

Neumann KH-750 is the only one I can think of, and isn't cheap. Neumann's software can switch the bypass over the network, or you can use https://github.com/schwinn/khtool

If you don't want to use a wired remote switch with one of the subs with a footswitch/bypass switch input you could use something like:

• a 433MHz remote relay with a keyfob style remote
• a ZigBee relay if you use ZigBee for home automation
• a WiFi/Bluetooth relay controlled by phone app

Most of the relays have 3 contacts: Common (COM), Normally Open (NO) and Normally Closed (NC). You would connect this to a 1/4" TS plug, probably sleeve to COM and tip to NO but check the sub manual to be sure. The relay modules above also need a power supply (not supplied). They're just from a quick search of Amazon - many others are available and may have the PSU supplied or built in.

Maybe I need the advice from @somebodyelse

I think there are some subs with a remote. One that I know of, Eve Audio, tried it out once and it has some nice features: Eve TS108.
The footswitch doesn't bother me, so I went for the 7050C. I like the looks - for a studio/work environment anyway.
Footswitch also turns off high-pass filter by the way.

 

[Pancreas]

I think there are some subs with a remote. One that I know of, Eve Audio, tried it out once and it has some nice features: Eve TS108.
The footswitch doesn't bother me, so I went for the 7050C. I like the looks - for a studio/work environment anyway.
Footswitch also turns off high-pass filter by the way.

TS107 has the same remote

 

[pehu63]

Aren’t we on an 8030c non GLM thread tho?

GLM aint gonna work with my speakers

IIRC, the genelec 7360 would work nicely with the 8030, as it has an integrated low pass filter. And GLM for the bass. As explained elsewhere, compensation below Schroeder frequency should be sufficient, with good speakers. Surely the 7360 is above my desired budget. Not sure anymore, but I think the 7350 does not have the low pass filter that would be needed for the 8030.

I use the ADAM t10s (400 euro), with REW measured corrections in an arylic player with DSP (60 euro). Cheap and very good sound, but not compatible with the neighbors. The ADAM has contact sound to my neighbors via the floor, used the footswitch to turn it off for now. Need to find a trick to isolate the sub from the floor. I did test on full power, before the adding the sub, nothing to hear.

 

[Miguelón]

IIRC, the genelec 7360 would work nicely with the 8030, as it has an integrated low pass filter. And GLM for the bass. As explained elsewhere, compensation below Schroeder frequency should be sufficient, with good speakers. Surely the 7360 is above my desired budget. Not sure anymore, but I think the 7350 does not have the low pass filter that would be needed for the 8030.

I use the ADAM t10s (400 euro), with REW measured corrections in an arylic player with DSP (60 euro). Cheap and very good sound, but not compatible with the neighbors. The ADAM has contact sound to my neighbors via the floor, used the footswitch to turn it off for now. Need to find a trick to isolate the sub from the floor. I did test on full power, before the adding the sub, nothing to hear.

I have the same fear, before buying a sub is no way to know the impact to the neighbors downstairs. I suppose one can use same kind of decoupling elements than those of speakers…

Floor stands will be nice, same as those of the monitor but less heigh

 

[Jake C]

Hey, great review! I'm curious why there was no waterfall plot. I think that is one of the most important visualizations when judging performance. Thanks!