Genelec 8020B repair

[lsndnst]

Thank you and I will try this. Maybe the capacitor defect because of the heat of the power amplifier. This is only quite a little distance.

 

[Eskil]

Repair experience on Genelec 8020D:
Hi, just bought a pair of 8020D's cheap, where one was defect.
The defect turned out to be that both SMD mounted fuses on the PCB were burned, there is a normal primary fuse and a secondary fuse after the power supply. Both are marked F something on the PCB.
All electronics, SMPS, analog filters (NE5532, TL072, TL074), gain trimmers, PCB cooled TI 2CH BTL class-D amp with pre-filter feedback TPA3118 is on the same small PCB.

 

[itaki]

Just wanted to add a confirmed data point here for anyone finding this thread with a Genelec 8030B showing weak or no bass while the tweeter still works.

The fix in my case was replacing the single 22µF 6.3V SMD electrolytic capacitor — nothing else. I initially replaced all six caps on the board (five 1µF 50V and one 22µF 6.3V) based on a YouTube repair video, but after doing the same repair on my second unit by swapping only the 22µF cap, it worked immediately. The other caps tested fine out of circuit.

Replacement part: Panasonic EEE-FC0J220R (22µF 6.3V, 4.0mm diameter SMD) from Digi-Key. Make sure you get the 6.3V version — the footprint on the board is small and a higher voltage rating won't fit.

You'll need a hot air rework station to remove the original without lifting the pads. A cheap JCD 8898 combo unit (~$22 on AliExpress) works fine for this job.

 

[kees2]

Just wanted to add a confirmed data point here for anyone finding this thread with a Genelec 8030B showing weak or no bass while the tweeter still works.

The fix in my case was replacing the single 22µF 6.3V SMD electrolytic capacitor — nothing else. I initially replaced all six caps on the board (five 1µF 50V and one 22µF 6.3V) based on a YouTube repair video, but after doing the same repair on my second unit by swapping only the 22µF cap, it worked immediately. The other caps tested fine out of circuit.

Replacement part: Panasonic EEE-FC0J220R (22µF 6.3V, 4.0mm diameter SMD) from Digi-Key. Make sure you get the 6.3V version — the footprint on the board is small and a higher voltage rating won't fit.

You'll need a hot air rework station to remove the original without lifting the pads. A cheap JCD 8898 combo unit (~$22 on AliExpress) works fine for this job.

I could not be happier with the previous post from Itaki. I had a weak bass issue on my Genelec 8030A. I took out the 22uF capacitor and measured it with those crappy 20$ component testers. It said: 137uF with 24% loss factor and ESR of 11ohms. Obviously, complete nonsense values. I replaced it with a through hole component (fixed it with hot glue) and I am back with a proper bass coming from my beloved 8030's. Probably need to replace the other unit as well

 

[YSC]

I could not be happier with the previous post from Itaki. I had a weak bass issue on my Genelec 8030A. I took out the 22uF capacitor and measured it with those crappy 20$ component testers. It said: 137uF with 24% loss factor and ESR of 11ohms. Obviously, complete nonsense values. I replaced it with a through hole component (fixed it with hot glue) and I am back with a proper bass coming from my beloved 8030's. Probably need to replace the other unit as well

how old was your 8030A when this happens?

 

[LTig]

IMy electronics friend decides to follow all the traces and draw a schematics from it. This is a tremendous work! It allows us to understand each part of the system, the DIP switches and even the unmarked calibration potentiometers. As the speaker has no firmware you can understand its features just by looking at the schematics and the components datasheets.
[..]
You can find the full schematics in "output.pdf" file attached.

Thanks a lot to you and your friend for the hard work, it's very much appreciated. Although my 8020a from 2006 still work great it's good to know how to possibly fix them.

 

[LTig]

You'll need a hot air rework station to remove the original without lifting the pads. A cheap JCD 8898 combo unit (~$22 on AliExpress) works fine for this job.

l found several offers for this rework station at AliExpress, one called JCD 8898 and several others called just 8898, for prices between € 20 and € 50. They look identical except for the name plate. Do you know whether they are indeed identical?

 

[kees2]

how old was your 8030A when this happens?

About 15 years. Bought them brand new in, I guess, 2010

 

[itaki]

how old was your 8030A when this happens?

Mine are from 2010. Used hard for 8 years and then decommissioned to my personal workstation for the last 8 or so which get's a lot less volume and playtime.

 

[YSC]

Mine are from 2010. Used hard for 8 years and then decommissioned to my personal workstation for the last 8 or so which get's a lot less volume and playtime.

right, but 2010 till 2022-2026 is pretty amazing already. for home use at low volume I am hoping it could last even longer. the price once divided by the usage time is really bang for the buck.

 

[itaki]

right, but 2010 till 2022-2026 is pretty amazing already. for home use at low volume I am hoping it could last even longer. the price once divided by the usage time is really bang for the buck.

lol, I was thinking that 15 years for a speaker was poor performance. In all honesty, if Genelec had paid a whopping $0.06 more per capacitor for those 22s this thread wouldn't exist.

 

[YSC]

lol, I was thinking that 15 years for a speaker was poor performance. In all honesty, if Genelec had paid a whopping $0.06 more per capacitor for those 22s this thread wouldn't exist.

It could be viewed both ways, maybe coz I am mostly a PC building geek, electronics rarely last like 10 years, so IMO for half a grand cost it's fair enough. But sure, for a brand like genelec one would more likely expect it to last forever.