Genelec 8010A Powered Studio Monitor Review

[Miguelón]

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I need to correct myself. My pair of 8010A's is perfectly level-matched. It was the room interference of one speaker sitting in a corner, the other not, which made the stereo center shift. Using a DSP to pan is a feasible solution, and I wouldn't touch the trim pots at the backs, as there is no need.

What a quality product. Thanks, Genelec!

[Edit: The measurements were done with the top of the woofer's rim as reference point, at ca. 50 cm distance, gated. The microphone was sitting below the tweeter, and on its axis the high frequencies would be less attenuated.]

Corners are not trustable

 

[sheeple]

Despite the good news in respect to the level matching, I have a persisting issue with one of the speakers:

At very low levels, it crackles. If a song has got a fade-in or a fade-out, the very low level parts will not be played and at some level the speaker plays or does not play, it appears as if there was a threshold which it must cross before it lets sound pass through. Once the levels of the playback material is higher, it plays cleanly.

The other speaker does not have the issue. I disabled ISS on both, enabled it again, it makes no difference. The gain switch was set to -10 dB on both.

Any hints how to solve this?

 

[LTig]

Despite the good news in respect to the level matching, I have a persisting issue with one of the speakers:

At very low levels, it crackles. If a song has got a fade-in or a fade-out, the very low level parts will not be played and at some level the speaker plays or does not play, it appears as if there was a threshold which it must cross before it lets sound pass through. Once the levels of the playback material is higher, it plays cleanly.

The other speaker does not have the issue. I disabled ISS on both, enabled it again, it makes no difference. The gain switch was set to -10 dB on both.

Any hints how to solve this?

First make sure that it is the speaker and not the source , by exchanging left and right speaker. If the problem stays with the speaker it should be sent to Genelec for repair.

 

[sheeple]

It does not appear to be the speaker, as I have already switched cables/channels and the low volume input "gate" on-off crackle remains on the same speaker.

I hoped there was an explanation what causes this behaviour that would safe me from sending them in for now.

 

[sheeple]

I took a look inside to see if something does not look alright. Everything is proper.

The issue does not appear when the speaker is receiving the audio signal from the 3.5 audio jack of my workstation computer. So maybe it is an issue of my streamer hardware, a Raspberry Pi and its DAC HAT from Hifiberry. I imagine it's got something to do with voltage.

Pics (don't know why they appear rotated sideways here, not so on my system):

 

[AnalogSteph]

The issue does not appear when the speaker is receiving the audio signal from the 3.5 audio jack of my workstation computer. So maybe it is an issue of my streamer hardware, a Raspberry Pi and its DAC HAT from Hifiberry. I imagine it's got something to do with voltage.

How exactly do both setups differ in terms of cabling? Could it be a case of poor contact?

I see all DIP switches are in the OFF position - is that how you normally use these? I find it hard to think of a scenario where you would not have the "SENSITIVITY -10 dB" switch on, otherwise the input is absurdly sensitive. Your problem might be a hyperactive ISS (auto-standby) with too small a power-off time constant due to a bad solder joint or whatnot, so you can also try flipping ISS DISABLE and see whether that makes any difference.

 

[sheeple]

Hi, thanks for the input.

It appears to be an electronics incompatability between the Raspberry DAC HAT and the Genelec 8010A's. Instead of the HAT I checked with an USB DAC (Focusrite 2i2) and the Genelec still reproduces input with the volume control on LMS set to 1% and CamillaDSP to -10 dB. CamillaDSP defines the peaks during playback as ca. -87 dB, while with all volume controls set to maximum, which is not a proper setting as it causes overload distortion, 90% on LMS would be correct to allow headroom for EQ, it reaches -4 dB. At this low levels while sometimes only peaks are reproduced and the lower volume sections remain silent, there is no crackle.

I am not educated in electronics, but I assume the DAC HAT cuts the current when certain low levels are reached and this causes the tweeter diaphragm to move in an uncontrolled way, sort of the occasional pop when the speaker is connected to mains. I don't know if this can be solved, would need to ask the developer of the HAT Hifiberry but they are seemingly a too small team to micromanage very specific customer issues.

The dip switch positions where changed during dissasembly, for playback I don't use ISS and I listen at -10 dB sensitivity setting to reduce hiss.

Edit: As usual, the problem was sitting in front of the screen. Issue is solved.

 

[dziemian]

Are these speakers capable of being surround speakers for home cinema or should I go with 8020? I love the small size though

 

[LTig]

Are these speakers capable of being surround speakers for home cinema or should I go with 8020? I love the small size though

This depends on the main speakers (LRC). If those are 8010 then yes. If they are 8020 maybe if you don't play too loud. Any bigger mains no.

 

[dziemian]

My mains are Neumann KH120A plus 4 x 12" capable subs. I want to add a pair of surrounds to this setup. 1.5m distance from the listening position to the surrounds and 3m from the mains. No center channel.

 

[LTig]

I think you'll need 8020 or KH80 as surrounds, despite the shorter distance.

 

[soundofsilence]

Why would someone use active speakers for surround sound? How do you even bypass?

 

[staticV3]

Why would someone use active speakers for surround sound? How do you even bypass?

Bypass what?

 

[soundofsilence]

the powered amp outputs

 

[staticV3]

the powered amp outputs

either you buy an AVP, or you use Speaker to Line converters (or you modify your AVR by tapping into the internal Line signal).

 

[Mort]

either you buy an AVP, or you use Speaker to Line converters (or you modify your AVR by tapping into the internal Line signal).

Mini DSP works as a pre without the amps.

 

[staticV3]

Mini DSP works as a pre without the amps.

Flex HT, WiiM Ultra, Arvus H1-D, Nuprime H16
..all of these I would count as AVPs in this scenario (fully aware that they dont pass video)

 

[montyliam]

My mains are Neumann KH120A plus 4 x 12" capable subs. I want to add a pair of surrounds to this setup. 1.5m distance from the listening position to the surrounds and 3m from the mains. No center channel.

The 8010 should be fine at this level. I have them around 1m away and can play at reference level without issues (the 8010 are -10db compared to the other channels due to the close proximity).

 

[dziemian]

The 8010 should be fine at this level. I have them around 1m away and can play at reference level without issues (the 8010 are -10db compared to the other channels due to the close proximity).

What is your reference level and crossover point with subs?

 

[montyliam]

What is your reference level and crossover point with subs?

THX reference level. Crossover is 120hz LR4 to subs, any lower and they start to struggle.