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Full Noob seeks guidance - Which Amp?

LilSizzle

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Hello highly distinguished, educated and kind humans,

My name is LilSizzle and I want to buy an amp. Here is the story:
I've moved into solo living for the first time in years, in the middle of the forest, and I want to some killer sound for my dance practice and watching movies. Killer as in driving and has some bass I can feel. At current I have HK Go Play. So anything that is a step up from that is a win.

Speaking of which I just found a Vintage Toshiba SA-320L Amp on the side of the road and it goes well. Along with some Melbourne made vintage speakers yep I'm from Down Under Australia.

IMG_1883.JPG
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Along with this I just purchased a bunch of well cared for Polk Audio gear for $370 USD. Picking it up today.
- Floor standing - RTi A5 x 2
- Centre - CSi A4 x 1
- Book shelf - RTi A1 x 2 plus stands.
- Sub - DSW PRO 440wi

Details of the room:
- Hard wood floors
- 4metres wide x 6m long x 3m ceiling
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Wants:
- Danceable sound system - bass.
- Minimal gear in room as possible.
- Bluetooth.

Thoughts:
- Thinking 2.1- RTi A1 x 2 in unison with the Sub DSW 440wi.
- Or just 2.0 - Floor standing - RTi A5 x 2
- Will sell remaining gear to help fund an amp.

Questions - the amp:
- Either 2.1 or 2.0 Amp depending on speaker selection.
- Do I keep the Toshiba or run another amp?
- Budget for $250 AUD.
- Have been looking at Class D Amps due to small foot print:
Fosi Audio DA2120C
Fosi Audio BT30D
SMSL AD18
In Australia I've found it hard to find any TPA3255 run Class D Amps.

Open to all ideas.

Thanks for the read!

Kindly,

LilSizzle
 

Doodski

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You will require a much more powerful amp than what the Toshiba can output. The Toshiba is ~15W/ch depending on who is quoted for power spec.
 
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LilSizzle

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You will require a much more powerful amp than what the Toshiba can output. The Toshiba is ~15W/ch depending on who is quoted for power spec.
Cheers. Aight. So sell that AMP to someone who wants the Vintage Amp Vibe.
 

Doodski

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Cheers. Aight. So sell that AMP to someone who wants the Vintage Amp Vibe.
That's the best route. As per a class D amp there are peeps here @ ASR that are more aware than I of what is available presently on the market and what is good. :D
 

JSmith

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My name is LilSizzle and I want to buy an amp.
Fo shizzle LilSizzle... oh and G'day. :)

Those RTi A5's can take a decent bit of power;

  • Total Frequency Response:30 Hz → 27,000 Hz
  • Nominal Impedance:8 ohms
  • Sensitivity (1 watt @ 1 meter):90 dB
  • Lower and Upper -3dB Limits:40 Hz → 26,000 Hz
  • Recommended Amplifier Power Per Channel:20 watts → 250 watts
Since you're in Aus, you may want to take a look at the March Audio Hypex NCore class D offerings;


... or if you don't mind importing;



Or you could get a smaller Topping PA5, but that will only give you 60W per channel, which may go into clipping territory when you turn it up to "pump the bass";



JSmith
 

RickSanchez

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- Either 2.1 or 2.0 Amp depending on speaker selection.
Considering the speaker set that you purchased at a pretty low price you may want to investigate AVRs instead of stereo amps. Not that hard to find a 5.1 AVR and they're not that expensive. Better yet -- if your notion of "some bass I can feel" is on the room shaking end of the spectrum -- find an AVR that supports 5.2 (or 7.2). Eventually you may find you want dual subwoofers to drive enough bass, so you'll need an amp with dual subwoofer outputs. Not saying the Polk RTi A5's are bad speakers but they may not give you the punch you're looking for.
 

bloomdido

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Considering the speaker set that you purchased at a pretty low price you may want to investigate AVRs instead of stereo amps. Not that hard to find a 5.1 AVR and they're not that expensive.
Why would one want a 5.1 AVR for 2.1 even with two subs? You just add a sub which takes high level signal from your amp - and it can even pass the signal to your main speakers crossed over at sub frequency (well not all subs can do that but many do). And two subs would work the same way.
 

RickSanchez

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Why would one want a 5.1 AVR for 2.1 even with two subs? You just add a sub which takes high level signal from your amp - and it can even pass the signal to your main speakers crossed over at sub frequency (well not all subs can do that but many do). And two subs would work the same way.
Fair point, that's certainly an option here.

My suggestion of an AVR for this situation was based on:
  1. [from the OP] "Minimal gear in room as possible."
    • Depending on what the OP wants to do now -- and in the future -- an AVR is a single device that can manage a lot of speakers and connections.
  2. [from the OP] "Bluetooth."
    • Most AVRs have Bluetooth and/or Airplay2 and/or something similar. Amps do not.
  3. [from the OP] "I just purchased a bunch of well cared for Polk Audio gear for $370 USD"
    • I'm not certain that the OP is going to limit themselves to 2.0, 2.1, or 2.2. In addtion to the mains and a sub they bought a center channel and two satellites. At least with the AVR they have the option to easily use all of them if they want to do surround.
  4. Room EQ.
    • To your point the OP could manage the crossover point via a sub, at least one that has the feature to feed mains.
    • But if the OP wants to integrate all of their speakers into the room they're going to want to do EQ. A measurement mic + REW + DSP (or software EQ) is one way to go, but room correction via an AVR is usually good enough to get decent results ... at least far better results than not doing any room correction at all.
 

JayGilb

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This should be an interesting thread to watch.

That old Toshiba probably doesn't have enough power to drive your left/right front speakers efficiently and they can handle 250 watts.
Maybe you can sell it and since it was a roadside find, it's all profit.

The SMSL AD18 has sub outs and 80 watts RMS. Your speakers aren't terrible efficient (90 db), but I'm guessing it should drive them pretty loud.
The Fosi Audio DA2120C is even more powerful and also has sub outs.
The Fosi Audio BT30D has powered sub speaker outputs which you don't need, so I wouldn't purchase that one since you're paying for circuitry that you most likely will not utilize.

Either the SMSL AD18 or the Fosi Audio DA2120C should work well for your needs.

Nice looking apartment, but I can foresee a lot of echo until it is fully furnished.
 
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LilSizzle

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Fo shizzle LilSizzle... oh and G'day. :)

Those RTi A5's can take a decent bit of power;


Since you're in Aus, you may want to take a look at the March Audio Hypex NCore class D offerings;


... or if you don't mind importing;



Or you could get a smaller Topping PA5, but that will only give you 60W per channel, which may go into clipping territory when you turn it up to "pump the bass";



JSmith
Hello cuzzy bro, as in my cousin brother. Thank you for the hot tips and words. From what I can see those amps are regrettably outside of my budget. Is there anything in the $250 AUD mark found on amazon.com.au that you would suggest?

For sizzle.

LilSizzle.
 
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LilSizzle

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Considering the speaker set that you purchased at a pretty low price you may want to investigate AVRs instead of stereo amps. Not that hard to find a 5.1 AVR and they're not that expensive. Better yet -- if your notion of "some bass I can feel" is on the room shaking end of the spectrum -- find an AVR that supports 5.2 (or 7.2). Eventually you may find you want dual subwoofers to drive enough bass, so you'll need an amp with dual subwoofer outputs. Not saying the Polk RTi A5's are bad speakers but they may not give you the punch you're looking for.
A good point. I had a big search around and found an Integra Amplifier dtr-7.8 for $200 AUD, about $130USD that has decent power per channel. Only problem no Bluetooth:
• 7 x 160 Watts/Channel at 6Ω
• 7 x 130 Watts/Channel at 8Ω

I'm going to run a single subwoofer at most as the space is relatively small and my neighbours are a distance away, though I still wish to respect their audio amenity. :)
 
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LilSizzle

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Why would one want a 5.1 AVR for 2.1 even with two subs? You just add a sub which takes high level signal from your amp - and it can even pass the signal to your main speakers crossed over at sub frequency (well not all subs can do that but many do). And two subs would work the same way.
I'm a little baby when it comes to understanding what this means. I'll do some research if it starts to apply.
 
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LilSizzle

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Fair point, that's certainly an option here.

My suggestion of an AVR for this situation was based on:
  1. [from the OP] "Minimal gear in room as possible."
    • Depending on what the OP wants to do now -- and in the future -- an AVR is a single device that can manage a lot of speakers and connections.
  2. [from the OP] "Bluetooth."
    • Most AVRs have Bluetooth and/or Airplay2 and/or something similar. Amps do not.
  3. [from the OP] "I just purchased a bunch of well cared for Polk Audio gear for $370 USD"
    • I'm not certain that the OP is going to limit themselves to 2.0, 2.1, or 2.2. In addtion to the mains and a sub they bought a center channel and two satellites. At least with the AVR they have the option to easily use all of them if they want to do surround.
  4. Room EQ.
    • To your point the OP could manage the crossover point via a sub, at least one that has the feature to feed mains.
    • But if the OP wants to integrate all of their speakers into the room they're going to want to do EQ. A measurement mic + REW + DSP (or software EQ) is one way to go, but room correction via an AVR is usually good enough to get decent results ... at least far better results than not doing any room correction at all.
1. Minimal in stature as well as in number is the go.
2. I've found second hand amps in the $250AUD range no Bluetooths.
3. Totally going to stick with 2.0 or 2.1 - the plan is to resell or gift the remainder.
4. That is above my pay grade at the moment. :)
 
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LilSizzle

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This should be an interesting thread to watch.

That old Toshiba probably doesn't have enough power to drive your left/right front speakers efficiently and they can handle 250 watts.
Maybe you can sell it and since it was a roadside find, it's all profit.

The SMSL AD18 has sub outs and 80 watts RMS. Your speakers aren't terrible efficient (90 db), but I'm guessing it should drive them pretty loud.
The Fosi Audio DA2120C is even more powerful and also has sub outs.
The Fosi Audio BT30D has powered sub speaker outputs which you don't need, so I wouldn't purchase that one since you're paying for circuitry that you most likely will not utilize.

Either the SMSL AD18 or the Fosi Audio DA2120C should work well for your needs.

Nice looking apartment, but I can foresee a lot of echo until it is fully furnished.
Yes, as you say Toshiba off to the marketplace.

The Fosi DA2120C seems to be the starting point for me: small physically, can drive the speakers, offers a sub-line out, Bluetooth.

If others have other recommendations of similar priced yet a better amp to be found in Australia for $250 ish. Please suggest it up!

Yeah, the photos are from before moving in!
 

JohnBooty

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@LilSizzle This is a long topic but two things about "watts"

1. Manufacturers play very loose with these specs. They may say "160W" but it might mean the amp can only output 160W for a fraction of a second, at very high distortion. Class D amps' power output is routinely overstated by 2x or more. Amplifiers/receivers from reputable manufacturers tend to be more realistically rated.
2. This is counterintuitive, but to get twice the "loudness" you actually need 10x the (honestly rated) watts.

Along with this I just purchased a bunch of well cared for Polk Audio gear for $370 USD. Picking it up today.
- Floor standing - RTi A5 x 2
- Centre - CSi A4 x 1
- Book shelf - RTi A1 x 2 plus stands.
- Sub - DSW PRO 440wi

The easiest way to integrate the sub is a standard home theater style receiver. It doesn't need to be super powerful since the sub will be providing the bass. A fairly low end 5.1 model from some established brand (Sony, etc) should do the trick.

edit: I just checked amazon.com.au and "standard home theater style receiver" doesn't seem to be a thing there, at least on Amazon. Something like the Denon S540BT, recommended here, would be great if available where you live. Perhaps a bit pricey but here in the States that sort of thing's plentiful on the used market.
 
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LilSizzle

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@LilSizzle This is a long topic but two things about "watts"

1. Manufacturers play very loose with these specs. They may say "160W" but it might mean the amp can only output 160W for a fraction of a second, at very high distortion. Class D amps' power output is routinely overstated by 2x or more. Amplifiers/receivers from reputable manufacturers tend to be more realistically rated.
2. This is counterintuitive, but to get twice the "loudness" you actually need 10x the (honestly rated) watts.



The easiest way to integrate the sub is a standard home theater style receiver. It doesn't need to be super powerful since the sub will be providing the bass. A fairly low end 5.1 model from some established brand (Sony, etc) should do the trick.

edit: I just checked amazon.com.au and "standard home theater style receiver" doesn't seem to be a thing there, at least on Amazon. Something like the Denon S540BT, recommended here, would be great if available where you live. Perhaps a bit pricey but here in the States that sort of thing's plentiful on the used market.
Thanks mate.

Yeah, in Australia with the currency exchange something like that hits about $700 AUD.

I'm considering getting a second hand piece of kit and adding a bluetooth adaptor to it.

Here is what I've found used:
- Integra Amplifier dtr-7.8 $200 AUD - remote
- Kenwood KR V 7080 $40 AUD - no remote
- Pioneer VSX-D714 $50 AUD - no remote
- Pioneer VSX-D710s $150 AUD - remote
- Denon AVR-3806 $135 AUD - No remote

Anyone of those you'd suggest based upon watts n ohms?
 
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Doodski

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Thanks mate.

Yeah, in Australia with the currency exchange something like that hits about $700 AUD.

I'm considering getting a second hand piece of kit and adding a bluetooth adaptor to it.

Here is what I've found used:
- Integra Amplifier dtr-7.8 $200 AUD - remote
- Kenwood KR V 7080 $40 AUD - no remote
- Pioneer VSX-D714 $50 AUD - no remote
- Pioneer VSX-D710s $150 AUD - remote

Anyone of those you'd suggest based upon watts n ohms?
I would be interested in the Integra. It is 4Ohm rated and has good power. Keeping in mind it is a surround sound receiver and might need a small fan on top if you are going to run it hard.
 

Chrispy

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The Integra looks to be the best of the bunch. I was going to suggest adding not bluetooth particularly, but something that can work on wifi instead...
 
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LilSizzle

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The Integra looks to be the best of the bunch. I was going to suggest adding not bluetooth particularly, but something that can work on wifi instead...
Open to suggestions on the WIFI/Bluetooth business.
 
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