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Fosi v3 Mono - User Impressions | Owner's Thread

The V3 Mono review thread has stolen all the dramatic flair from this thread. Can’t have that, it’s too loud in that room and not loud enough in this one. So to resolve this I will present this and say nothing at all:
View attachment 376543

-Ed
:D You are going to need two more for the monos lol :D ... although you can switch test I suppose with both in one of the monos. Just checking this is the user's thread. yes it is, phew.

I hope you get your mono's soon ...
 
:D You are going to need two more for the monos lol :D ... although you can switch test I suppose with both in one of the monos. Just checking this is the user's thread. yes it is, phew.

I hope you get your mono's soon ...
I have two more Burson V7 Vivids sitting just waiting, so yes. Additionally, I have four Sparkos Labs SS3602 at my disposal. Given the audience here, I will simply state that in previous testing with my ZA3s, both op-amps do work fine in that amplifier. Both types also work fine in the (original, stereo) V3. I, too, cannot wait for the V3 Monos to arrive, though, so that I may confirm that both types also work fine in a V3 Mono without issues.

Is that all objective enough around here?

-Ed
 
The V3 Mono review thread has stolen all the dramatic flair from this thread. Can’t have that, it’s too loud in that room and not loud enough in this one. So to resolve this I will present this and say nothing at all:
View attachment 376543

-Ed
Now that's a funny one.

-The already inadequate heat dissipation ability is now non-existent,the chip is silently (for the time) slowly frying itself.
-No ESD/EMI protection whatsoever.
-The tight routing an engineer goes to great length to accomplish is out the window
-bypass capacitors send long good-buys from abroad (it's CRUCIAL for bypass capacitors to be as close as possible to the op-amp)
-long untwisted cables taking long walks over areas that they shouldn't.

This device is already deteriorated ,at least I hope it's connected to sacrificial speakers.
 
Now that's a funny one.

-The already inadequate heat dissipation ability is now non-existent,the chip is silently (for the time) slowly frying itself.
-No ESD/EMI protection whatsoever.
-The tight routing an engineer goes to great length to accomplish is out the window
-bypass capacitors send long good-buys from abroad (it's CRUCIAL for bypass capacitors to be as close as possible to the op-amp)
-long untwisted cables taking long walks over areas that they shouldn't.

This device is already deteriorated ,at least I hope it's connected to sacrificial speakers.
I’m not sure what you mean about the heat dissipation issue and the ESD/EMI protection. Or are you assuming that I’m actually trying to run the amp with the case open? In which case you may have been misled by my photo, which was taken prior to closing the casing up. It is currently running like this:

IMG_3138.jpeg


Furthermore, the original, stereo V3 came without any thermal interface material between the case and the heatsink. I applied some, so to a certain degree, my unit is dissipating heat better than stock.

-Ed
 
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I’m not sure what you mean about the heat dissipation issue and the ESD/EMI protection. Or are you assuming that I’m actually trying to run the amp with the case open? In which case you may have been misled by my photo, which was taken prior to closing the casing up. It is currently running like this:

View attachment 376572

-Ed
With the op-amps (and their looong connectors) cramped against the case and PCB?
Ok.

I would strongly advice anyone who wants to play with stuff like that to cut a small portion of the budget to get a nice E1DA Cosmos ADC and a couple of big resistors,install some software like Multitone analyzer or REW and learn how to measure a couple of things like noise,etc.
It's not as hard as it sounds for basic stuff and once you get there you will see how can anything affect a device.

And we're talking big time hits,like the ones taken by long distance capacitors (imagine that good engineers don't even like the distance these rolling sockets add and prefer to solder them directly on the PCB),proximity to big caps,or noise emitting sources,interference by leds,motors,various stuff a house holds,etc.

The 100dB SINAD measured in the clinical lab conditions is an utopia this way.
If you don't have a way to confirm it,well...



A small measuring rig will be the best investment in audio ever.
 
The V3 Mono review thread has stolen all the dramatic flair from this thread. Can’t have that, it’s too loud in that room and not loud enough in this one. So to resolve this I will present this and say nothing at all:
View attachment 376543

-Ed

EDIT: For clarification purposes, because it seems multiple people don’t realize it, this picture was taken prior to closing the entire amp back up. It is being operated in the normal manner:
View attachment 376576
Wow - even if those opamps were able to improve the sound in any way (they are not) then the adapters will destroy the carful PCB layout created by the engineers. At best they might just provide a path for noise and cross talk pickup. At worst, they'll destroy amp stability.
 
I have two more Burson V7 Vivids sitting just waiting, so yes. Additionally, I have four Sparkos Labs SS3602 at my disposal. Given the audience here, I will simply state that in previous testing with my ZA3s, both op-amps do work fine in that amplifier. Both types also work fine in the (original, stereo) V3. I, too, cannot wait for the V3 Monos to arrive, though, so that I may confirm that both types also work fine in a V3 Mono without issues.

Is that all objective enough around here?

-Ed
You sure will have livened this thread up!

I'm coming back to my oft repeated thought here that the monos allow for blind testing. I think your Sparkos Labs SS3602 might fit to take the connector factor out of the equation?

I'm wondering though, if, (when I can muster up the energy) two cable runs to two speakers playing in mono from each amp (i.e. each amp connects to two speakers and I switch between the two) will work, not increase the ohms or such. I don't see why it should given we have speakers with 3 or 4 units. The two I would be using are directly coupled to the main drive (Triangle Titus from a while back).

My intent is to disprove to myself that I found before :D.

I don't think I will muster up the energy for quite while.
 
Wow - even if those opamps were able to improve the sound in any way (they are not) then the adapters will destroy the carful PCB layout created by the engineers. At best they might just provide a path for noise and cross talk pickup. At worst, they'll destroy amp stability.
With the op-amps (and their looong connectors) cramped against the case and PCB?
Ok.

I would strongly advice anyone who wants to play with stuff like that to cut a small portion of the budget to get a nice E1DA Cosmos ADC and a couple of big resistors,install some software like Multitone analyzer or REW and learn how to measure a couple of things like noise,etc.
It's not as hard as it sounds for basic stuff and once you get there you will see how can anything affect a device.

And we're talking big time hits,like the ones taken by long distance capacitors (imagine that good engineers don't even like the distance these rolling sockets add and prefer to solder them directly on the PCB),proximity to big caps,or noise emitting sources,interference by leds,motors,various stuff a house holds,etc.

The 100dB SINAD measured in the clinical lab conditions is an utopia this way.
If you don't have a way to confirm it,well...



A small measuring rig will be the best investment in audio ever.
Either way it was merely an experiment just to prove that it can function that way. I just swapped in a pair of the Sparkos units to play with. These did not necessitate using the crazy wire extensions.

-Ed
 
My units have arrived and I’ve come immediately to inform other buyers/owners that the units do not come with thermal interface material between the heatsink and enclosure from the factory:

IMG_3163.jpeg


-Ed
 
My units have arrived and I’ve come immediately to inform other buyers/owners that the units do not come with thermal interface material between the heatsink and enclosure from the factory:

View attachment 377143

-Ed
interesting, seems that they have modified the PCB a little bit, at least they changed the output SMD resistors for those two chunky through hole. Can you post a pic of the upper side? thanks
 
My units have arrived and I’ve come immediately to inform other buyers/owners that the units do not come with thermal interface material between the heatsink and enclosure from the factory:

View attachment 377143

-Ed
If I understand correctly, should there be thermal paste here? I have never bought or applied thermal paste. Fosi should be aware of the "terriers" (in case of any language issues this is a compliment) on this forum! "Dogged investigators". Perhaps we don't need to worry but someone who knows will no doubt chip in.

Perhaps @Guddu 's original ones in the first post here did not have thermal paste.
 
My units have arrived and I’ve come immediately to inform other buyers/owners that the units do not come with thermal interface material between the heatsink and enclosure from the factory:
Question: If they had put thermal goop on it would scrape off a good bit when you slid out the chassis to inspect or roll op amps right?

We should get word from Fosi if it was supposed to be pre-pasted, but if you want thermal paste it is probably better to put it on yourself just before your final op/amp switch. Am I wrong?
 
Question: If they had put thermal goop on it would scrape off a good bit when you slid out the chassis to inspect or roll op amps right?

We should get word from Fosi if it was supposed to be pre-pasted, but if you want thermal paste it is probably better to put it on yourself just before your final op/amp switch. Am I wrong?
I wipe any current TIM off and reapply it any time I enter the enclosure. This is a habit I have from years ago as I was a computer overclocker during my young days and any time you remove the heatsink (or in my case water block) from the CPU or GPU, you must redo the TIM for proper efficiency.

interesting, seems that they have modified the PCB a little bit, at least they changed the output SMD resistors for those two chunky through hole. Can you post a pic of the upper side? thanks
At the moment have the system playing/am listening to music. Maybe later I will dig back into them for a photo, but I will need the spare time to be able to open them up, take the photos, and then completely redo the TIM, since I don’t half-ass these things.

That’s assuming someone else doesn’t beat me to it.

-Ed
 
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The gain with the balanced input of V3 Mono is dramatically lower than gain at maximum volume/minimum attenuation on ZA3’s balanced input, regardless whether ZA3 is set to stereo or mono. I run a subwoofer (SVS SB-3000) that is separately fed from a preamp simultaneously with the power amps, and I had to turn the subwoofer’s volume setting down ~15db in the DSP control app to level match after swapping amps.

-Ed
 
The gain with the balanced input of V3 Mono is dramatically lower than gain at maximum volume/minimum attenuation on ZA3’s balanced input, regardless whether ZA3 is set to stereo or mono. I run a subwoofer (SVS SB-3000) that is separately fed from a preamp simultaneously with the power amps, and I had to turn the subwoofer’s volume setting down ~15db in the DSP control app to level match after swapping amps.

-Ed
PFFB in action. 20 Vs 26dB.
 
Tubers mentioned the Mono V3 is lack behind Topping PA7 Plus in the way of soundstage and details?? Your thought please?? the design of PA7 Plus doesn't attract me at all.
 
Tubers mentioned the Mono V3 is lack behind Topping PA7 Plus in the way of soundstage and details??
Which reviews do you mean? I’ve seen all of them and cannot remember this being mentioned at all. It also doesn’t make much sense as soundstage is determined by the speakers, not the amp, especially as channel separation can’t get any better than with mono amplification.
 
Which reviews do you mean? I’ve seen all of them and cannot remember this being mentioned at all. It also doesn’t make much sense as soundstage is determined by the speakers, not the amp, especially as channel separation can’t get any better than with mono amplification.
This - sound stage is in the recording, and the way the speakers manage dispersion in the room.

Amplifiers / DACs etc don't influence it at all.
 
Which reviews do you mean? I’ve seen all of them and cannot remember this being mentioned at all. It also doesn’t make much sense as soundstage is determined by the speakers, not the amp, especially as channel separation can’t get any better than with mono amplification.
This tuber mentioned it in 10:35 , when he compared V3 mono to PA7 Plus.


for me , DSP, PEQ, Speaker Setup can fix soundstage with any kind of speakers !! Anyway, it’s very common that most pro audio tubers tell this Dac has deeper, wider, crunchier, darker, wider soundstage than others (implementations design, quality capacitor, clock). Speakers, XO maker is my casual hobby. The only the same is the chipset itself because AKM is AKM and ESS is ESS. Like a man is a man but some are rich, some are poor.

For me, amplifiers influence sound .. !! You cannot say my McIntosh amplifier produce same sound level to your Fosi V3 mono ! :facepalm: Or your Fosi sounds the same with ayima A07. In that case, we just stick with 1 power amplifier ! No class A,B, AB H, E or tube amplifiers .. your statement is really non-sense !
 
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