Fosi CA30 Four Channel Car Audio Amp Review

[amirm]

This is a review and detailed measurements of Fosi CA30 four (4) channel car audio amplifier. It was sent to me by the company and sells for US $140.

Construction is very solid with the unit feeling much heavier and denser than it should at this price. The usual options are provided for gain and crossover. Power and speaker connectors are good quality but lack in usuability:

As you can probably tell, the screws go in at an angle. This makes it easier to see them if you are looking from the back. The problem is the screw engagement. Only the edge of it makes contact and worse yet, at the far end of the hole. With finer speaker wires, I had a heck of a time getting the screws to engage them. I must have spend 15 minutes messing with them. The edge of the screw can also saw off some the wire strands. Power connectors were not as bad but still have the same issue. Ferrules would likely help with both but I wish the the screws were 90 degrees to the incoming wire.

NOTE: Fosi asked me for private testing of this amplifier before design finalization. I charge for that service. The unit here was sent from production run without any payment or obligation.

FYI the amplifier has idle consumption of about 11 watts causing the enclosure to be fairly warm.

Fosi CA30 Automobile Amplifier Measurements
As usual, we start with our 1 khz test tone and 4 ohm load after adjusting the gain down to 22 dB:

This is respectable performance relative to other car amplifiers tested:

Noise performance again, pretty good for the class:

There is no post filter feedback so some load dependency is visible:

I asked the company why they did not implement PFFB and they said there is extreme price and hence component cost pressure in this category so they could not afford to include it.

Channel separation is again, good enough:

Same story goes for intermodulation distortion:

Power is a bit short of 100 watt spec but you can get there if you allow more distortion (as every manufacturer practices):

In almost all cases, there is a jump in distortion above 1 or so watts which you can see in my frequency vs power vs distortion:

Again, keep in mind that this is budget, car audio category we are evaluating, not home stereo.

I combined channels 1 and 2 to test power into 4 ohm, bridged:

Usually bridge mode has a distortion penalty but here, we actually improve performance! And get a very nice boost in power to boot:

I ran the same test into ~2 ohm:

Power now drops so there is a current limit. So not the best choice to drive a low impedance subwoofer.

Finally the amplifier is ready for use on power up:

Conclusions
I was surprised when Fosi told me they were aiming for car audio market. We are talking about a world where prices are less than what you buy a chunk of metal and massively exaggerated specs. Fosi improves on these with nice build quality (sans the screw terminals), with competent performance and nearly achieving its specs, depending how much distortion you let in. Better use than 4 channel is bridged stereo where you get well over 250 watts (one channel driven).

I hope Fosi produces a higher end model with full performance of their desktop products.

I am going to recommend the Fosi CA30 car audio amplifier.
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[kemmler3D]

I wouldn't say I'm impressed by the numbers here, but the price isn't bad, and my car is not too good for this amp.

 

[bachatero]

This is the only car audio amp I'd get because the competition is so downright slimy!

 

[renaudrenaud]

Now we need a Fosi tubes amp for car audio.

 

[daniboun]

Teardown and thanks Amir )
See attached file

 

[JSmith]

Thanks for the testing @amirm

A closer look;

JSmith

 

[daniboun]

For those who like amp cars... You probably know the Biketronics NC2500 based on Hypex NC500 modules ?

 

[Inertiaman]

I ran the same test into ~2 ohm:
View attachment 556635

Power now drops so there is a current limit. So not the best choice to drive a low impedance subwoofer.

FWIW, the product installation notes on the Fosi website state that the total impedance per channel in bridged mode should not go below 4 ohms. So this test case is essentially outside the manufacturers supported use cases.

 

[Inertiaman]

Good to see some competition for the excessive marketing BS that fills the automotive audio space. I'd rather have a TI TPA amplifier chip than the Infineon this uses, but presumably Fosi can't "afford" that small investment for the corresponding improvement in power and SNR.

The modest dimensions of this amplifier (7.3"x3.9"x1.9") are one of its best selling points imho. Decent specs, small size and low cost makes it a reasonable option for simple, non-intrusive upgrades of factory systems.

 

[Launagis]

Is there a way to know or measure if the power drops when two channels are driven in bridged mode? I assumed, that there are two amplifier modules with separate power supplies, but I might be wrong.

Anyway, after initial positive reviews I bought CA30 for my "scrap" portable outdoor system - 2x Tannoy I8AW (run from unbridged outputs) and two diy 10" 8ohm subs run from one bridged output. Battery is 100ah LifePO4, source is Wiim Mini (it has PEQ!). Very enjoyable little system, works like a charm.

I have an itch to get another CA30 amp, run two 15" 4ohm subs from one amp with bridged outputs and use another amp to run diy ~12" coax active. Or even passive and bridge the amp also.

Anyway, thanks for attention to this matter!

 

[Tell]

As you can probably tell, the screws go in at an angle.

It's actually quite hard to tell from these pictures. While I do like the head on pictures you take for your reviews, but sometimes (like now) having pictures taken at an angle would tell quite a lot about a product
Anyways, good review of an okay product. If I had a car and would need an amplifier for it I would definitely consider this one.

 

[PristineSound]

I remembered in the 90's, car audio was a thing, a big thing. We would admire the cool kids who's car had a subwoofer box in the trunk, upgraded speakers and separate amp. Back then, everything was modular, with standard DIN and double DIN size.

But nowadays, it's near impossible to upgrade your car audio but on the other hand, cars comes with better audio systems.

I have a Subaru Forester, it comes with a Harman system with an integrated sub in my trunk.

 

[JohnBooty]

Now we need a Fosi tubes amp for car audio.

The glowing vacuum tubes could be mounted externally to function as auxiliary turn signals or fog lights.

 

[Cadillacofminds]

I remembered in the 90's, car audio was a thing, a big thing. We would admire the cool kids who's car had a subwoofer box in the trunk, upgraded speakers and separate amp. Back then, everything was modular, with standard DIN and double DIN size.

But nowadays, it's near impossible to upgrade your car audio but on the other hand, cars comes with better audio systems.

I have noticed fewer cars with aftermarket speakers, I guess this has a great deal to do with that. Another thing I think I've noticed is people going for a PA type sound, super loud mids without bothering trying to have bass. Maybe though that's because motorcycle sound systems are making up a larger part of the annoyingly loud and bad music on the road. The other day someone turned his system on and I had this interesting split second feeling that a cop was speaking through his car's PA system

 

[JohnBooty]

I remembered in the 90's, car audio was a thing, a big thing. We would admire the cool kids who's car had a subwoofer box in the trunk, upgraded speakers and separate amp. Back then, everything was modular, with standard DIN and double DIN size.

But nowadays, it's near impossible to upgrade your car audio but on the other hand, cars comes with better audio systems.

I have a Subaru Forester, it comes with a Harman system with an integrated sub in my trunk.

Ugh, yeah. I upgraded the stereo in my Ford Fusion and I had to replace the entire "infotainment system" including climate controls. The replacement unit is kind of buggy and not very attractive.

But I also agree with your other point. Factory audio is often noooot bad these days.

I think manufacturers FINALLY realized that it's a huge selling point and satisfaction driver and it can be cheap to implement. Class D power is clean and cheap. DSP EQ corrections are also cheap. No reason for a stock system to sound bad these days.

 

[DearSX]

Picked one up for my car, Raw-Cat the Youtuber measured it also. . Its an old Toyota with a small alternator. Got it with a warranty just in case. $140 total. The efficient design and compact size will allow me hide it and power my four speakers well. Thanks for the test Amirm.

 

[jhaider]

Power and speaker connectors are good quality but lack in usuability:
View attachment 556620
As you can probably tell, the screws go in at an angle. This makes it easier to see them if you are looking from the back. The problem is the screw engagement. Only the edge of it makes contact and worse yet, at the far end of the hole. With finer speaker wires, I had a heck of a time getting the screws to engage them. I must have spend 15 minutes messing with them. The edge of the screw can also saw off some the wire strands. Power connectors were not as bad but still have the same issue. Ferrules would likely help with both but I wish the the screws were 90 degrees to the incoming wire.

Maybe they’re trying to force best practices. IME bare wire is trouble. Loose strands migrate. Always use ferrules. Ferrules will be clamped down just fine by an angled screw.

I remembered in the 90's, car audio was a thing, a big thing. We would admire the cool kids who's car had a subwoofer box in the trunk, upgraded speakers and separate amp. Back then, everything was modular, with standard DIN and double DIN size.

But nowadays, it's near impossible to upgrade your car audio but on the other hand, cars comes with better audio systems.

I have a Subaru Forester, it comes with a Harman system with an integrated sub in my trunk.

Yeah, I’m surprised there’s much market for car audio still, for the reasons you mention. And not just brand new cars. Even my old 2014 Lexus CT200h (2nd gen Toyota Prius in nicer clothes) would have been such a PITA to upgrade that, even though it sounded terrible, the time to DIY or cost to pay for the upgrade meant that the JBL C608GTi set I bought from Scott Buwalda for it never left its box.

 

[amirm]

Maybe they’re trying to force best practices. IME bare wire is trouble. Loose strands migrate. Always use ferrules.

I had to cut my admittedly large speaker terminal ferrule! That was a 10 minute struggle. I would push it in, screw the thing down only to realize at the tail end it would push the ferrule out! At the angle it is, it bits all the way at the end of that hole, hence this issue.

 

[jhaider]

I had to cut my admittedly large speaker terminal ferrule! That was a 10 minute struggle. I would push it in, screw the thing down only to realize at the tail end it would push the ferrule out! At the angle it is, it bits all the way at the end of that hole, hence this issue.

That is bad design. When I read “angled” my thought was, good, it’ll catch one of the ribs on a crimped ferrule and push the connector inwards. Looks like it’s the opposite though.

 

[GWolfman]

I had to cut my admittedly large speaker terminal ferrule! That was a 10 minute struggle. I would push it in, screw the thing down only to realize at the tail end it would push the ferrule out! At the angle it is, it bits all the way at the end of that hole, hence this issue.

That’s a pain! Hopefully they rework it for the higher-end models in the future.

Thanks for the review!