• Welcome to ASR. There are many reviews of audio hardware and expert members to help answer your questions. Click here to have your audio equipment measured for free!

Fosi Audio ZA3 Amplifier Review

Rate this amplifier:

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 15 3.3%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 62 13.7%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 256 56.8%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 118 26.2%

  • Total voters
    451
I've a questions, if anybody can help with any it'd be much appreciated.

1/. The load dependency into 6 Ohms, is this something you'd actually notice, if so what effect will it have on the sound and will it be lessened if you're using a pair as mono blocks as opposed to a single one in stereo mode.

2/. Not sure if anyone's done this .... If you use 2 in mono mode, how would you set up a trigger from your streamer to switch them both on / off and what would I need .... I'll be using a Blusound Node which I'm guessing is 3.5mm out, when I did this a year or so ago from a WiiM Pro it needed to be a mono cable to get it to work.
Would I need a mono splitter and then 2 x's mono cables

3/. Amps distort more the higher the volume goes, if they're left at full volume and you're using the streamer to adjust, because the amps are set to full, does it have any negative affect at lower volumes or does the distortion only occur when the amp's actually being driven harder.
 
3/. Amps distort more the higher the volume goes,
Actually, no. They only distort more if you drive them into clipping. They might actually have less distortion at medium levels than low levels.
if they're left at full volume and you're using the streamer to adjust, because the amps are set to full, does it have any negative affect at lower volumes
No not really. Unless you are reducing volume digitally at the streamer so excessively and so losing information.
or does the distortion only occur when the amp's actually being driven harder.
No, distortion doesn't increase as the amplifier is being driven harder, unless you drive it into clipping. Even if you do drive it into clipping you will, for the same volume level, get the same distortion from overdriving it whether you feed it a low level signal and turn the volume up to compensate or feed it a high level signal with the volume turned down to compensate.

mt recommendation is to make a compromise. Play loud music at maximum output level from the streamer and slowly turn up the amplifier volume until it is as loud as you will ever want to listen. Then leave the volume knob alone (even tape it into place) and make subsequent volume adjustments digitally on the streamer.
 
Actually, no. They only distort more if you drive them into clipping.
Many (most?) amps have increasing distortion before clipping, as seen on the power vs. distortion plot for the ZA3:
index.php

Up to ~10W the THD+N is dominated by noise, so the line falls linearly as power increases. From ~10W to ~90W distortion dominates and rises with power, hence the upward slope. At ~90W we reach clipping, and distortion rises sharply. It's rare to see a plot where noise dominates all the way to clipping - a linear downward slope all the way to the sharp rise at clipping.
 
Many (most?) amps have increasing distortion before clipping, as seen on the power vs. distortion plot for the ZA3:
index.php

Up to ~10W the THD+N is dominated by noise, so the line falls linearly as power increases. From ~10W to ~90W distortion dominates and rises with power, hence the upward slope. At ~90W we reach clipping, and distortion rises sharply. It's rare to see a plot where noise dominates all the way to clipping - a linear downward slope all the way to the sharp rise at clipping.
How careless of me in not making the distinction between noise and distortion in the interests of providing a simple and helpful answer :)
 
What's astonishing exactly? A chip amp, in a tiny aluminium can, with an off-the-shelf SMPS. I don't see anything remotely astonishing about it. Personally, I think it's way overpriced for what it is (or isn't)

How grown men can get excited about an "amplifier" lacking pretty much everything that makes an amplifier remotely useful is beyond me.

One set of speakers- not switchable
No headphone socket
No tone controls
No filters
No loudness
No tone defeat
No signal routing options
No processor loops
No remote control
No muting
No phono stage
Only two inputs- LOL what a joke.

All of these things (except remote) were standard on ~USD$100 integrated amplifiers in the 70s/80s/90s and into the 2000s.
And then there was Bob Carver, who disagrees with everything you listed as necessary or standard and his products pretty much make this look like a toy, but then Bobs stuff was meant to be big and for grown ups who had space, money and no need to upgrade unless he came out with a new model that had more watts. Some things are forever and then there's Chip amps, I only own 1 amp that was made after 2000 and I'm willing to bet anyone would want to trade their chip amps for the amps I have yet I wouldn't do the opposite. It reminds me of the joke, what's the difference between a guy who owns a Corvette and the guy who owns the Mustang? The Corvette guy never dreams of owning a Mustang.

Oh I lied I forgot I have 2 of those 50w x2 +100w amps that cost under $4 with 2x $7 - 24v 20A psus and they've been used about the same time it takes to connect the wires to them. Sure they're great for $11 but it's really just $11 wasted since every other amp puts them to shame, even amps with less power like an old 50w x2 BGW 150 that cost me $25 and I have 5 of them laying around in case I need a temporary fill in. These tiny amps are just goofy, the weight of the speaker wires and the XLR cables is enough to drag them off the table top and crash on the floor. I've had that happen countless times just while they were stored. Do you use double sided tape to hold them in place or do you tie a string on them to retrieve them from the back of the cabinet when you need to change the volume, which should be done using an upstream device .

I'm sorry but this tested amp has useless features that make no sense and they could be selling just an amp for less and make other tiny items to go between them like a crossover with tiny knobs or digital numbers all operated by a single dial that you push 10 times to get to the next setting. This all reminds me of testing out a miniDSP which I found to be useless and annoying to even try to use. But to each his own, I like to come and see the newest tiny amp everyone is getting excited about and find out if the last best thing at this price stayed working past its warranty. I'll wait till they get to a point where there's no more big wows and each one is basically the same, that's when they have perfected it and it's worth switching over.

I never had any weight problems with any of my home amplifiers and I sure am glad that others have gotten rid of their large speakers and large amps and heavy amps used for live shows over the years, I'll never run out of room for those big and heavy pieces especially when they're practically giving it away. I like to read how people get rid of quality gear and regret it 2 years later. But then I'm not hen pecked and allow my woman to boss me around either.

I comend the work Amir does here, I realize that he can do this now since the size and weight to ship these tiny things is negligible compared to shipping a 75lb power amp built before 2000. If he wasnt verifying builders claims I doubt anyone would be buying these things. The manufacturers owe him for his service, he alone has been the one constant that people can turn to to see how things are taking shape in the recent changes in audio, well at least for the very cheap minded people who are trying to create the impossible with a $200 budget.

I would never expect to see more tests of older amps because it's not practical and testing old gear doesn't drum up sales to keep this industry going, besides, all the best stuff is huge and heavy, not really geared to shipping for test purposes and much of it has such high output that it will be difficult to test since 2 and 1Ω tests would need to be done to get a clear idea of its potential.

I never considered anything with tone controls, selectable inputs, volume and a balance control to be an amplifier, that's s receiver minus the tuner, any pre amp with an amp section is receiver. Notice how popular they are within the audiophile world? I won't even look at the ads if I see more than an voltage input setting on anything but pre amp.
 
So got this amp here. Right of the start a big WTF... Is it correct that by design this Amp goes into OFF state when powered on by a smart plug? Tested, Amp on -> smart plug off -> smart plug on -> Amp off...... The amp needs to sit in a place I can't reach the device and nevertheless is set to a specific unity gain.
Before I bought it I'm made sure to find some feedback on this and it should power on from user feedback. There're X amount of iteration of those china amps on the market where they fiddle around silently so nobody knows what he/she gets.... My guess I have got an old version?
Is there are hack to correct this behavior? If not I'm selling it right away.
 
So got this amp here. Right of the start a big WTF... Is it correct that by design this Amp goes into OFF state when powered on by a smart plug? Tested, Amp on -> smart plug off -> smart plug on -> Amp off...... The amp needs to sit in a place I can't reach the device and nevertheless is set to a specific unity gain.
Before I bought it I'm made sure to find some feedback on this and it should power on from user feedback. There're X amount of iteration of those china amps on the market where they fiddle around silently so nobody knows what he/she gets.... My guess I have got an old version?
Is there are hack to correct this behavior? If not I'm selling it right away.

I've not used a smart plug so can't help with that I'm afraid but it you wat it to switch on / off, does whatever you're feeding into it have a 12v trigger out, if so just get a 3.5mm male to male mono cable. I have a splitter out of a Bluesound Node and 2 x's cable as I'm using 2 x's ZA3's as mono blocks and it works a treat.
 
Last edited:
So got this amp here. Right of the start a big WTF... Is it correct that by design this Amp goes into OFF state when powered on by a smart plug? Tested, Amp on -> smart plug off -> smart plug on -> Amp off...... The amp needs to sit in a place I can't reach the device and nevertheless is set to a specific unity gain.
Before I bought it I'm made sure to find some feedback on this and it should power on from user feedback. There're X amount of iteration of those china amps on the market where they fiddle around silently so nobody knows what he/she gets.... My guess I have got an old version?
Is there are hack to correct this behavior? If not I'm selling it right away

So got this amp here. Right of the start a big WTF... Is it correct that by design this Amp goes into OFF state when powered on by a smart plug? Tested, Amp on -> smart plug off -> smart plug on -> Amp off...... The amp needs to sit in a place I can't reach the device and nevertheless is set to a specific unity gain.
Before I bought it I'm made sure to find some feedback on this and it should power on from user feedback. There're X amount of iteration of those china amps on the market where they fiddle around silently so nobody knows what he/she gets.... My guess I have got an old version?
Is there are hack to correct this behavior? If not I'm selling it right away.
I use smart plugs and a 12-volt battery in a holder to simulate a continuous trigger. This allows the za03 to switch on easily via a smart plug. ;)
 
I want to share my experience with the Za3, which, unlike the mono v3s, has a major issue that isn't highlighted enough in any of the reviews you'll find.
Only a very few meet the specifications using an input lower than 0.775V (stated with clipping at about 1.2 V).
This means that if you have a source with a standard fixed output of 2V, it will sound out of spec—quite bad.
Therefore, take the reviews with a grain of salt, as many seem extremely detailed but lack some basic technical fundamentals.
It generally sounds neutral and transparent, but with some even harmonics that sweeten it a bit.
The issue of load dependence at these levels is almost imperceptible and could actually be beneficial depending on the speakers it's paired with.
Listening is so subjective that it's difficult to give a definitive recommendation based on different speakers and environments.
Personally, I bought it to try it out, and I think it sounds better than many AB amps I've tried with my setup (mostly English ones) when played within its ideal range.
Therefore, my advice is to carefully understand your system and listening environment and choose the device that best suits your needs, both in terms of power and musicality.
 
I want to share my experience with the Za3, which, unlike the mono v3s, has a major issue that isn't highlighted enough in any of the reviews you'll find.
Only a very few meet the specifications using an input lower than 0.775V (stated with clipping at about 1.2 V).
This means that if you have a source with a standard fixed output of 2V, it will sound out of spec—quite bad.
Therefore, take the reviews with a grain of salt, as many seem extremely detailed but lack some basic technical fundamentals.
It generally sounds neutral and transparent, but with some even harmonics that sweeten it a bit.
The issue of load dependence at these levels is almost imperceptible and could actually be beneficial depending on the speakers it's paired with.
Listening is so subjective that it's difficult to give a definitive recommendation based on different speakers and environments.
Personally, I bought it to try it out, and I think it sounds better than many AB amps I've tried with my setup (mostly English ones) when played within its ideal range.
Therefore, my advice is to carefully understand your system and listening environment and choose the device that best suits your needs, both in terms of power and musicality.
This post says the ZA3 has an underreported “major issue” and that using “a source with a standard fixed output of 2V…will sound out of spec—quite bad.” The implication is that Amir failed to mention a serious flaw in reviewing and recommending the ZA3.

I don’t possess the technical knowledge to understand if this dire scenario is something I need to worry about in my setup, or if if I’m merely experiencing unnecessary and unwanted audio-forum FUD as I try to process this claim — it sounds bad!

I’m using a Schiit Saga 2 preamp (specs here) to feed my Fosi ZA3 amp via balanced cables. The Saga 2 has three output gain settings: Passive, Active Low Gain, or Active High Gain. My speakers are MoFi SourcePoint 8 and a SVS SB-1000 Pro subwoofer. The system sounds great to me, and I have no problem producing volume as loud as I can tolerate without apparent distortion .

Should I care or be concerned about this post’s criticism of the ZA3!?
 
This post says the ZA3 has an underreported “major issue” and that using “a source with a standard fixed output of 2V…will sound out of spec—quite bad.” The implication is that Amir failed to mention a serious flaw in reviewing and recommending the ZA3.

I don’t possess the technical knowledge to understand if this dire scenario is something I need to worry about in my setup, or if if I’m merely experiencing unnecessary and unwanted audio-forum FUD as I try to process this claim — it sounds bad!

I’m using a Schiit Saga 2 preamp (specs here) to feed my Fosi ZA3 amp via balanced cables. The Saga 2 has three output gain settings: Passive, Active Low Gain, or Active High Gain. My speakers are MoFi SourcePoint 8 and a SVS SB-1000 Pro subwoofer. The system sounds great to me, and I have no problem producing volume as loud as I can tolerate without apparent distortion .

Should I care or be concerned about this post’s criticism of the ZA3!?
Gain-staging properly is important no matter the component. The ZA3’s low input sensitivity is easily handled in a number of different ways. First of all if your source has its own volume control, especially its own volume cap, or even better a separate output voltage setting (for example WiiM Ultra which has a digital volume cap as well as adjustable output voltage), you can just lower that. Additionally benefits include more usable volume control range.

Secondly the ZA3 has its own attenuator, the volume pot. If you use some upstream device for (remote) volume control, you can cap input voltage with the volume control of the ZA3 simply by turning it to zero, playing your very quietest track from upstream with upstream volume maxed out, and then slowly turning volume back up on the ZA3 until it is as loud as you ever want to hear it, and then never touching the ZA3’s volume again (use upstream volume control daily).
 
Should I care or be concerned about this post’s criticism of the ZA3!?
All this means is that the ZA3 cannot receive 2V with its volume knob turned up all the way and still play cleanly.

That's because with its maximum gain of 26dB, 2V at the input would turn into 400W @4Ω and the ZA3 can only output 140W.

The solution is simple. Don't use the ZA3 with the volume knob turned to maximum and you can listen safely and undistorted with 2V input or more.

Individually, there's nothing wrong with feeding the ZA3 2V or more and there's also nothing wrong with using it at max volume. You just can't do both at the same time.
 
choose the device that best suits your needs, both in terms of power and musicality.
Music is musical. Devices are not.

Hi. Welcome to the forum. Just by way of an introduction, you'll realise from the forum name that we are science-based in the way we evaluate audio reproduction gear. It means we are different from many of the other forums you might have visited, and the frequently used descriptive words— such as "musicality" but also stuff like 'air’, 'veils’, 'dark’, "PRAT“, etc.— are viewed as undefined, and not useful, or just irrelevant: EG PRAT. Electronics does not have anything that can influence the pace/rhythm or timing of music.

Devices have the characteristics of noise, distortion, frequency response— and for amplifiers— output impedance (which can impact frequency response in the way it interacts with your speakers).

Most devices have such low levels of defect in these areas that they are audibly transparent (the human ear is unable to detect the defects). At this point, they basically sound the same.

Sorry if this comes across as a lecture— it is not intended that way— just to help you find your way around more easily.

Again— welcome to the forum.

Some people like to introduce themselves here.

Not mandatory though.
 
I have my WiiM Pro Plus set to output 2V and also have the ZA3 at full volume. I'm using Polk S15 speakers. I use the WiiM for volume control obviously.

I also bought the Aiyima 48V 10A power supply to power the ZA3.

It sounds ok to me even at higher volumes.
 
I have my WiiM Pro Plus set to output 2V and also have the ZA3 at full volume. I'm using Polk S15 speakers. I use the WiiM for volume control obviously.

I also bought the Aiyima 48V 10A power supply to power the ZA3.

It sounds ok to me even at higher volumes.
You’re probably still not putting anywhere near 2V into the ZA3. Polk S18 have a rated sensitivity of 88dB at 8ohms; they’re hitting 88dB at 1meter distance with only 1watt!

With ZA3 volume maxed, what volume level do you go up to in the WiiM, and did you set any digital volume cap percentage?
 
Using an out-of-spec voltage simply attenuates the signal through the Za3.
Which, considering the relatively inexpensive implementation, isn't exactly ideal.
I've also done extensive testing using the XLR input, and indeed, the sound becomes increasingly muddy as the input voltage increases.
Coming from vintage gear, it was fairly easy for me to understand the problem, having previously owned also a QUAD 303 that had nearly the same sensitivity (0.5V considered audiophyl input par excellence).
Therefore I believe that the issue is more generational than anything else.
All my sources are always been line-level, as I prefer to have them connected directly to the amplifier, or, in extreme cases, use a preamp.
I tend to stick to the 0.6/0.65 input range with excellent results.
I recommend you try it.
 
You’re probably still not putting anywhere near 2V into the ZA3. Polk S18 have a rated sensitivity of 88dB at 8ohms; they’re hitting 88dB at 1meter distance with only 1watt!

With ZA3 volume maxed, what volume level do you go up to in the WiiM, and did you set any digital volume cap percentage?

I capped at 80% in the WiiM. Also very rarely get beyond 50 volume level in the WiiM.
 
I capped at 80% in the WiiM. Also very rarely get beyond 50 volume level in the WiiM.
I have no experience with the WiiM Pro+.
But from what I've read, the output can be set to 2 V, 1 V, 800 mV, or 500 mV.
Personally, I'd keep it at 0.5 V, even lowering the WiiM's SINAD (well below the audible threshold), but ensuring it remains within ideal operating range with the ZA3.

[WiiM Pro Plus]
Line Out Revel
2 Vrms - SINAD 111.7
1 Vrms - SINAD 109.4
0.8 Vrms - SINAD 107.6
0.5 Vrms - SINAD 103.8
 
Back
Top Bottom