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Deleted member 72219
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Honestly, bro-dawg probably just yoinked an op-amp (swap). It's not hard to do, even with an IC extractor.
-Ed
-Ed
Gotcha.
Yeah from what I could gather from all the available reviews, the V3Ms get a bit warmer than their other models.
Can you explain this more?"a bit warmer" - my both the units have broken this barrier already, but I use in totally ventilated position for complete air flow it might need.
I just meant mine are running more than warmer (more like a bit hot) as so much that I do want to put them in proper ventilated place.Can you explain this more?
That's great insight to have!I just meant mine are running more than warmer (more like a bit hot) as so much that I do want to put them in proper ventilated place.
Can this be an issue- I don’t know but probably not. (*** My AVRs have been running hot but still work even after 2 years ***).
But they, Fosi v3 mono, do their job very well that running a bit hot doesn’t bother me much, but doesn’t mean it won’t others.
While saying warm or a bit hot are subjective, a quick comparison for me is Fosi ZA3 which runs just warm in comparison.
I have close pictures of the unit as well as PSU here:Anyone know the model # for the Fosi 48V 10A power supply?
Note some photos show the HuntKey HKA30048063-7D, which is actually a 48V 6.3A.
It is not uncommon.(The Kickstarter page is not showing the model number... there is some chance they will change or tweak the power supply before shipping)
Cause of amp death: Greasy sausage fingers.Erin tortured that poor little amp to death, and Z has been poking around in it with his greasy sausage fingers.
If another reviewer smashes 2 more units with a hammer, you're gonna tell us '4 out of 20 died'?
Given how cheap these amps are, how quick the tech is improving, the time/cost associated with the aftermarket thermal paste, the potential to messing up the unit and the likelihood of never needing it, why would anyone go down this path?The place for Arctic Silver would be between the chip and the heat spreader block as the heat transfer is over a small area. The much larger area between the heat spreader and the case is less critical, and the rubbing removing the thermal paste is probably helps in avoiding there being too thick a layer of paste.
Thank you! @Fosi Audio. Could you please post the same information for the 5A power supply? I'm interested to see if the ripple spec is equally good. Impressive!This is a follow-up on the 48V/10A power supply. Our supplier Huntkey has provided us with a test report for this power supply, along with a video of the actual test, which you can review below. This power supply can indeed operate stably at a 10A current.
Noise & ripple test also included. @SMen
View attachment 368520View attachment 368521View attachment 368522View attachment 368523
Probably a five minute job that provides cheap insurance if one is concerned about the thermal dynamics of the V3 mono, if not, party on.Given how cheap these amps are, how quick the tech is improving, the time/cost associated with the aftermarket thermal paste, the potential to messing up the unit and the likelihood of never needing it, why would anyone go down this path?
Considering one of the "rewards" to kickstarters is an op amp chip, many of us might be "poking" around in it with our sausage fingers, so the anecdote about Z is noteworthy. Not at all a serious concern, unless quite a few others mention the same issue.Erin tortured that poor little amp to death, and Z has been poking around in it with his greasy sausage fingers.
If another reviewer smashes 2 more units with a hammer, you're gonna tell us '4 out of 20 died'?
No, do not use Arctic Silver. It is outdated, has a short working life and is conductive. Use MX-4 or MX-6 which guarantees a 8 year working life, lower thermal resistance than Arctic Silver and it is not conductive.Might be worth applying something like Arctic Silver. It's used for CPUs and claims to have superior temp reduction capabilities than generic heatsink grease.
Well, I've got the best part of a 14g tube of Noctua paste so I'll be using that if I take the Zeos punt and swap my op-amps.
Is good stuff although it does not have the 8 year guarantee rating. I have used Noctua in a pinch and it performed very well for a PC overclock.Noctua
Replacing the rubber feet with small heatsinks seems a futile effort to me. Placing a metal sheet across the top will reflect the heat back and will stop air flow that is cooling the case and interior of the amp. If you want to cool it very effectively make sure nothing is on top of the unit and there is free air flow all around the amp. If you want even better cooling then get a small fan and have it blow over, under or across the amp.Earlier today I was looking at small heatsinks I could use instead of the supplied rubber feet. I figured getting more air circulation under the amps and more effective case surface area can only help. Would 5mm slab of metal sheet sat on top of the amps help too?
I have an unopened tube of TF8 I was planning on using. Is thr mx-6 much better. I mean it's only $10 for a 4g tube, but if the TF8 fits the bill I'll use it . Also it's probably going 2 years old, but unopened.No, do not use Arctic Silver. It is outdated, has a short working life and is conductive. Use MX-4 or MX-6 which guarantees a 8 year working life, lower thermal resistance than Arctic Silver and it is not conductive.
EDIT: Arctic Silver Ceramique is very outdated and is not conductive but has a short life and not very good thermal conductivity.
I have not read test reviews comparing the Thermalright TF8 to the MX-4 or MX-6 so I can't speak to that. There are no ratings for thermal conductivity for the MX-4 and MX-6 so I can't use those to compare with the Thermalright TF8. Thermalright has been a great provider of very good product for my overclocking adventures over the years and so I have trust in it but I don't see that 8 year working guarantee again.I have an unopened tube of TF8 I was planning on using. Is thr mx-6 much better. I mean it's only $10 for a 4g tube, but if the TF8 fits the bill I'll use it . Also it's probably going 2 years old, but unopened.
I ended up getting a denon x3300w for 200 CAD that has a full set of preouts so problem solved. Thanks!Having the Yamaha's Line level signal be amplified by the built-in Amp, then brought back down to Line level via the adapter, then once again amplified to Speaker level by the Fosi, sounds extremely inefficient.
Instead, I'd try to modify the Yamaha by adding RCA Line outputs myself.
There's a service manual available online which guides you through the disassembly process and contains detailed block diagrams and PCB schematics.
Thank you. They do 'heat sink' into the case I guess, and ZA3 has more space in the case.I just meant mine are running more than warmer (more like a bit hot) as so much that I do want to put them in proper ventilated place.
Can this be an issue- I don’t know but probably not. (*** My AVRs have been running hot but still work even after 2 years ***).
But they, Fosi v3 mono, do their job very well that running a bit hot doesn’t bother me much, but doesn’t mean it won’t others.
While saying warm or a bit hot are subjective, a quick comparison for me is Fosi ZA3 which runs just warm in comparison.