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Fosi Audio V3 Amplifier Review

Rate this amplifier:

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 10 1.9%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 44 8.5%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 241 46.6%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 222 42.9%

  • Total voters
    517
seems to me 'too weak' to be used with a 10A power supply without taking the risk of its 'destruction'.
It isn't. As pointed out further up this thread (or in another - I can't remember) it is only conducing for a few milleseconds while the capacitors charge up. After that a relay closes, and all the current goes through the relay.
 
You must be right because everything seems to be going well for the person concerned :rolleyes:

By the way: if the amplifier works as you say then there is a problem with the relay and or its circuit...
... and perhaps other things: it is not really reassuring, but I am convinced that your intervention will have reassured everyone.

Kind regards.

PS: I would like to point out that you wrote '... once the amp is turned on...'

So it would have to turn on first, wouldn't it?

FOSI V3 MONO.png



Maximum switching power.jpg

It's the 'DATASHEETS' that 'speak', not me.

PS (2): You know when I see a MONO amp with 3 OPAMPs for a circuit that uses the TPA 3255 chip then I'm already wondering since you can do the same thing with only 1 OPAMP.

Why make it simple when you can make it complicated ?

DIAGRAM.jpg
 
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It's the 'DATASHEETS' that 'speak', not me.
It's a shame you don't understand how to interpret them then.

That chart is allowable switching current, not on state current (to minimize risk from arcing when the contacts open/bounce - why AC currents can be higher). You'll note it switches on when the capacitors are charged and the current is close to zero, And it switches off half a second or so after power has been removed and there is no current at all. When the contacts are closed there is no voltage across them, and the only limit to current is the carry current rating, based on the contact resistance.
 
I just happily continue on using 5A power bricks with my Fosis and Aiyimas...they don't seem to cause me any trouble...

I think most of these small Damps are being promoted generally as being able to handle more current than they are really suited for, which is a shame. They seem to work perfectly well in the lower power ranges, for the most part...
 
So everything is fine since you say it:

this amplifier is perfect and I will go back to study ;)
 
PS (2): You know when I see a MONO amp with 3 OPAMPs for a circuit that uses the TPA 3255 chip then I'm already wondering since you can do the same thing with only 1 OPAMP.

Why make it simple when you can make it complicated ?

View attachment 412885
Why not? Because it won't work properly with at least 2 varieties of balanced output, and probably has a 'Pin 1 Problem.'
 
In my opinion it is not necessary to find a solution such as repairing the tool, we should say not to put it on the market because it is unreliable.
I have many electronics from 1976 that still work today without problems.
 
I'm searching for a backup amp in case my 22+ year old NAD fails. I purchased a Fosi V3 stereo with 32V 5A PSU based on reviews. I chose 32V for long term reliability. I don't need tons of power but I'm used to excellent sound quality. I'll admit I havn't read all 150 pages of this thread, so I'm hoping some experts here will help:
1. Is the V3 great out of the box or does it need to 'run-in' for best sound quality? Does run-in involve just being powered or does it need to get warm delivering power to a load, if so for how long?
2. Is there concensus on the best value substitute opamps for improved sound quality?
Thanks in advance!
 
I'm searching for a backup amp in case my 22+ year old NAD fails. I purchased a Fosi V3 stereo with 32V 5A PSU based on reviews. I chose 32V for long term reliability. I don't need tons of power but I'm used to excellent sound quality. I'll admit I havn't read all 150 pages of this thread, so I'm hoping some experts here will help:
1. Is the V3 great out of the box or does it need to 'run-in' for best sound quality? Does run-in involve just being powered or does it need to get warm delivering power to a load, if so for how long?
2. Is there concensus on the best value substitute opamps for improved sound quality?
Thanks in advance!
Run-in for amps is a myth. They work or they don't. Plug in, turn on, and enjoy!

With the V3, you will find that the audio volume pot means you will have the volume knob higher than you are used to, but you have more control over softer volumes. A real plus in my view.

Most of us here feel that the op-amp swapping is equivalent to chasing rainbows. I did try swapping the stock ones (5532) for another chip type (4562s?) - could not really hear a difference. Later, Burson Audio sent me some free V5 and V6 op-amps to test and review - same thing. I didn't get oscillation, but I didn't hear any difference. Others, as you have no doubt read, have a semi-religious experience with changes. It's just a question of your curiosity and your pocketbook, probably more so than your ears. Not sure if Sparkos or others have a return policy, but that would be one way to find out if they do...
 
Run-in for amps is a myth. They work or they don't. Plug in, turn on, and enjoy!

With the V3, you will find that the audio volume pot means you will have the volume knob higher than you are used to, but you have more control over softer volumes. A real plus in my view.

Most of us here feel that the op-amp swapping is equivalent to chasing rainbows. I did try swapping the stock ones (5532) for another chip type (4562s?) - could not really hear a difference. Later, Burson Audio sent me some free V5 and V6 op-amps to test and review - same thing. I didn't get oscillation, but I didn't hear any difference. Others, as you have no doubt read, have a semi-religious experience with changes. It's just a question of your curiosity and your pocketbook, probably more so than your ears. Not sure if Sparkos or others have a return policy, but that would be one way to find out if they do...
Thanks for the reply. The 5532 is a 45 year old design, no doubt TI has upgraded it for modern processes but initial specs remain. I was hoping for proven modern value IC suggestions?
 
Thanks for the reply. The 5532 is a 45 year old design, no doubt TI has upgraded it for modern processes but initial specs remain. I was hoping for proven modern value IC suggestions?
I'll let others chime in here - you're going to get a full range of opinions on it. The question is whether one can truly hear a difference.
 
I'm searching for a backup amp in case my 22+ year old NAD fails. I purchased a Fosi V3 stereo with 32V 5A PSU based on reviews. I chose 32V for long term reliability. I don't need tons of power but I'm used to excellent sound quality. I'll admit I havn't read all 150 pages of this thread, so I'm hoping some experts here will help:
1. Is the V3 great out of the box or does it need to 'run-in' for best sound quality? Does run-in involve just being powered or does it need to get warm delivering power to a load, if so for how long?
2. Is there concensus on the best value substitute opamps for improved sound quality?
Thanks in advance!
I spent a long time running in my V3 stereo, marvelling at the improvements, but when I bought a second, brand new V3, I couldn’t tell them apart. Funny the way perception works.

That probably doesn’t bode well for my op amp recommendations, but at the end of the day, most op amps cost a few pounds only, and it’s fun! I have enjoyed 2134s in the V3, and I have Muses 02 in at the moment which cost £15 each. Are they revelatory- no but I felt there was a slight improvement over the originals, without any evidence to back this up.
 
Oh my goodness. If you do a web search you will find literally hundreds of threads about this. Here are a few links I got.


It's endless...
 
Oh my goodness. If you do a web search you will find literally hundreds of threads about this. Here are a few links I got.


It's endless...
I hoping for expert CONCENSUS for the V3 5532s?
 
I hoping for expert CONCENSUS for the V3 5532s?
I just don't think you are going to get to any consensus on this. There are many who feel that Fosi and Aiyima should not even have made the products with sockets, that it's a bit of a marketing gimmick, just like the overstated power figures. They can upsell customers though for the more expensive power supplies and the different op-amps. They do better in the end by playing to the never-ending "tweaking" and "refinement" that most of us are prone to.

I read a lot of threads on this after my first Aiyima A07 arrived...the 4562's were inexpensive to try, and so I did. The Burson ones were free to me, so I tried those.

There a lot of folks who feel the Muse and Sparkos op-amps sound different, those seem to get the most ink. The newest Burson 7 op-amps are sized to fit these smaller cases, where the 6 series was too high.

I think this is mostly a matter of your ears and your pocketbook. Try one and see if you feel there's a positive effect? And if you can return them, all the better, or you can of course sell them off as well.
 
I just don't think you are going to get to any consensus on this. There are many who feel that Fosi and Aiyima should not even have made the products with sockets, that it's a bit of a marketing gimmick, just like the overstated power figures. They can upsell customers though for the more expensive power supplies and the different op-amps. They do better in the end by playing to the never-ending "tweaking" and "refinement" that most of us are prone to.

I read a lot of threads on this after my first Aiyima A07 arrived...the 4562's were inexpensive to try, and so I did. The Burson ones were free to me, so I tried those.

There a lot of folks who feel the Muse and Sparkos op-amps sound different, those seem to get the most ink. The newest Burson 7 op-amps are sized to fit these smaller cases, where the 6 series was too high.

I think this is mostly a matter of your ears and your pocketbook. Try one and see if you feel there's a positive effect? And if you can return them, all the better, or you can of course sell them off as well.
Thanks for your further thoughts. There's a YT vid on this with music samples. The comments are illuminating, the general concensus is 5532 is good (rare Philips preferred), the OPA2604 is better, with a few outliers preferring (expensive) discretes. I believe Fosi bought the entire stock of OPA2604AP (DIP) & charges an arm & leg.
There's a discussion of fake 5532s but I believe I saw a post where Fosi showed a TI invoice for 5532s, that dispelled the myth. There are OPA2604AQ ceramic DIPs available on Ali but they could be fakes too.
 
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Thanks for your further thoughts. There's a YT vid on this with music samples. The comments are illuminating, the general concensus is 5532 is good (rare Philips preferred), the OPA2604 is better, with a few outliers preferring (expensive) discretes. I believe Fosi bought the entire stock of OPA2604AP (DIP) & charges an arm & leg.
There's a discussion of fake 5532s but I believe I saw a post where Fosi showed a TI invoice for 5532s, that dispelled the myth. There are AQ ceramic DIPs available on Ali but they could be fakes too.
Yeah, Fosi did jump in and show that was a bogus claim. Their internals are good. The main gripe is some early units had 50V power caps inside, pretty close/too close if one was using a 48v power brick. Since I use 32v and 36v bricks, that doesn't concern me. I think all the current ones have 63v power caps.

When I bought my 4562's, I got from Mouser or Digikey, even though they are inexpensive, there do seem to be eBay and Amazon fakes out there. I think there are fake Muse op-amps out there too.

With Sparkos or Burson, you just order direct, of course.

I just remembered, I did get one early chip-type amp set that caused oscillation, but I shut down in time. Don't remember what the code was. The 4562s seem to work fine. Fosi is good about answering direct questions about ones that are OK to use, beyond what's on their web site.
 
Hello :)

Concerning OPAMPs, I am not going to address here SUBJECTIVE considerations that are often linked to a kind of 'myth', 'fashion', various opinions concerning listening or even commercial orders...

I will try to remain OBJECTIVE (my goal is not to convince but to inform) first by observing the circuit used and then by relying on the manufacturers' data concerning the OPAMPS.

The circuit used has capacitors at the inputs of the OPAMPS for two reasons:

- a bipolar OPAMP creates OFFSET if these input impedances are not identical then we use these 'ARTEFACTS' to remedy it, even if it does not correct the OFFSET totally...

- the manufacturer, thanks to this 'TECHNICAL PIROUETTE', will be able to offer a device at a much lower cost price to gain more margin (a NE5532 DIP8 costs about 0.50 euros at MOUSER)

That being said, another important parameter is the value of this input resistor (actually it's impedance).

Here is a comparative table from TEXAS INSTRUMENTS to observe the behavior of BIPOLAR OPAMP and FET according to the input resistance. It will be noted that after a certain value, it is obvious that a FET OPAMP will be preferable to a BIPOLAR OPAMP.

Comparison OPAMP BIPOLAR-FET.jpg


The additional advantage of an OPAMP FET is that it will not create OFFSET if the input resistors are not identical:

we can then do without capacitors, i.e. a 'simplified' circuit without having the various 'effects' of an additional component on the signal.

It can be added that a chemical type capacitor will not work properly if it does not have a minimum potential difference across its terminals, which is the case here while an 'MKP' type capacitor (e.g. WIMA MKS2) is perfectly designed for this use.

Here is another comparison table that shows the 'THD+N' according to the value of the input resistor ->

OPAMP Comparison.jpg


The reading being done, I leave you 'alone' to judge but I will simply indicate that the OPA1642 (double version of the OP1641) is modern and with a very reasonable cost while the OPA827 is of older technology (although excellent) and only exists in a single version, which implies using two of them on a 'special' adapter whose overall cost will be much higher.

So finally, here is the modified diagram as it should be after observing my remarks ->

DIAGRAM FOSI AUDIO V3 STEREO + MOD V2 (15 -12 -2024).jpg


I simply added 220pF capacitors 'close' to the OPAMPs (the slots are empty on the PCB) which allow for an improved FFT such as the one I proposed for the O-NOORUS D1 amp because the circuitry is comparable almost in every way.


Additional addition:

The OPA1656 is also a very good choice that remains just as affordable while in the following table the OPAMPs OPA2828 (double opa828) and OPA2156 are starting to enter a much higher 'price range'.

OPAMP.jpg


Have a nice day ;)
 
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