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Fosi Audio BT30D Pro review

Running fine with HMP100s.... Sounds surprising great with a turntable and the X1 preamp
 
unfortunately all pictures in this thread are broken and only links are visible. are these externally linked?
 
I have a question about Impedance on this amp. Our ventilated amp cut the bass side out during an event. Almost surely overheating. Easy to reset toggling power but have to stop the music. Anyway, talking to my friend here who has the same amp (in a distant location) he has said that his idles cooler and operates (in use, not just idling) cooler. I mentioned that I am curious to see how his amp runs when he brings it next time and if it also cuts out ain the same tropical location. I suspect that my amp runs hotter than the average BT30D Pro. He said, "well, his runs cooler because, while he has the identical subwoofer (same driver model anyway, but different box) his is an 8 ohm whereas mine is in 4ohm, so he believes his BT30D pro will also have the same issue connected to a 4 Ohm sub.

Considering that this amp is rated for 2-8 ohms and comes with a somewhat low V power supply (for the 3255 chip), I had chosen a 4 ohm sub to allow for that and now am wondering if it was not wise. I had thought that an 8 ohm sub, all else being equal, would be less suited and have to draw harder on the voltage of the PS to get the same SPL., but now I wonder.

I have tried and tried to really sort out the impedence thing but again, the best I can tell, lower impedance, at same SPL will draw more current but less voltage than higher impedance. So that they will both use the same watts FOR A GIVEN SPL? Yes, 4 ohm is able to draw more power (watts) but it can also deliver a higher SPL so adjusting to same SPL compensates? In either case, we are going to turn up the sub to give a full sound and stop there. Basically on mine, we run the sub at 12-1 o'clock for both crossover and level.

Without asking for a full reiteration of the usual impedance explanations, does anybody have an opinion - did I optimize or not for THIS amp? What impedance sub are most people running on this?
 
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I have been communicating with Fosi about ventilation for this unit as we had a scare during a party where the sound dropped way down and it had to rest before it would play again, which then repeated. I suspected it was actually a power brownout not the amp and it appears that was the problem as the amp has performed well at several more dance parties since. Though we now point a 6" fan onto the amp case to be sure. I am interested in finding out if some passive ventilation would be a good idea and also wanted to hear from Fosi what the limit for an improved power supply would be with some ventilation holes in the case. Fosi has been very helpful but at some point, the person helping me changed and became less so. They would not confirm if the 36V voltage limits were due to ventilation or components. Well, they sorta said, "both".

BUT, looking over the specifications, I found that while Fosiaudioshop.com (where I bought it) sells this as a TPA3255 amp, the manual for the amp lists it as a 3251 based product. I then found the TI marketing info for the 52xx series - TI New audio amplifiers - showing that the 3251 IS a lower output chip than the 3255 so now the 36V limit makes sense. It's the amp's limit because it's not using 3255s. The TPA3255 has an 18-53.5V PS range while the TPA3251 has a 12-36V PS range.

So, it's good to know what these amps are actually built with, especially since they are misrepresented on the product page. Still a great amp, but not what I thought I was buying. On the product page, they advertise a 5255 based amp with specifications of a 5255 but that seems to be false given the voltage limit and the chip specified in the user manual.
Product page - Claims dual TPA3255
User manual - Describes as TPA3251

Cheers

Yes this thing can get HOT! From experience, if you run it with a passive sub, 6ohm all-around and sensitivity 87db or lower, it will probably burn up in short time at long listening periods and/or high volume. Here's what I did to modify the case and it seemed to help a lot:

 
+1 for matching high pass filter on this unit. Until then its utility is seriously compromised.
 
I have a Fos BT30D Pro and a Wharfedale SW150 subwoofer. It has both high level speaker outputs and RCA low level input (see attached image)
. The subwoofer outputs on the BT30D are specced for passive subwoofers - could I safely connect these to the SW150 and would the SW150 still need power from its internal amp? Or, am I better off using the line out on the BT30D to the RCA input on the SW150? (I'm new to this kind of setup - not sure what would be best)
 

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Why not sell a version with all of the upgrades already installed?
Sparkos, 48 volt 10 amp power supply...
 
could I safely connect these to the SW150 and would the SW150 still need power from its internal amp? Or, am I better off using the line out on the BT30D to the RCA input on the SW150?
Your subwoofer will use its internal amp regardless of which input you use — if you use the high level input, the signal will pass through a circuit that reduces it before it’s amplified again. I’d use whichever is more convenient for you.
 
Tenho uma dúvida sobre a impedância deste amplificador. Nosso amplificador ventilado desligou o grave durante um evento. Quase certamente foi superaquecimento. É fácil reiniciar desligando e ligando, mas é preciso parar a música. Enfim, conversando com um amigo que tem o mesmo amplificador (em um local distante), ele disse que o dele funciona mais frio em repouso e também em uso (não apenas em repouso). Mencionei que estou curioso para ver como o amplificador dele se comporta quando ele o trouxer da próxima vez e se também desligará no mesmo local tropical. Suspeito que meu amplificador esquente mais do que um BT30D Pro comum. Ele disse: "Bem, o dele funciona mais frio porque, embora ele tenha o mesmo subwoofer (mesmo modelo de driver, mas caixa diferente), o dele é de 8 ohms, enquanto o meu é de 4 ohms, então ele acredita que o BT30D Pro dele também terá o mesmo problema conectado a um subwoofer de 4 ohms."

Considerando que este amplificador é classificado para 2-8 ohms e vem com uma fonte de alimentação de baixa voltagem (para o chip 3255), escolhi um subwoofer de 4 ohms para compensar essa impedância, mas agora me pergunto se não foi uma escolha sábia. Eu imaginava que um subwoofer de 8 ohms, em condições iguais, seria menos adequado e exigiria mais da fonte de alimentação para atingir o mesmo nível de pressão sonora (SPL), mas agora estou em dúvida.

Tentei de tudo para entender a questão da impedância, mas, pelo que pude perceber, uma impedância mais baixa, com o mesmo nível de pressão sonora (SPL), consome mais corrente, mas menos tensão do que uma impedância mais alta. Então, ambas usarão a mesma potência (watts) PARA UM DETERMINADO SPL? Sim, 4 ohms consegue consumir mais potência (watts), mas também pode fornecer um SPL mais alto, então ajustar para o mesmo SPL compensa? De qualquer forma, vamos aumentar o volume do subwoofer para obter um som encorpado e parar por aí. Basicamente, no meu sistema, configuramos o subwoofer entre 12 e 1 hora, tanto para o crossover quanto para o nível.

Sem pedir uma repetição completa das explicações usuais sobre impedância, alguém tem uma opinião: otimizei ou não para ESTE amplificador? Qual a impedância do subwoofer que a maioria das pessoas usa com ele?
Buenos dias al perecer la salida del subwoofer se desactiva como proteccion nomas , es como si por mucho consumo la fuente cae la tension y el amplificador desactiva la salida, creo que con una fuente de 10a no tendra problema. Sobre la impedancia cuanto mas alta sea menos potencia va tener en la salida, ejemplo 200w 2ohm , 100w 4ohm y 50w 8ohm, a simples modo 100w en 2ohm consume lo mismo que 100w en 8ohm, solo que el amplificador no fornece la misma potencia si aumenta la impedancia de salida
 
Yes this thing can get HOT! From experience, if you run it with a passive sub, 6ohm all-around and sensitivity 87db or lower, it will probably burn up in short time at long listening periods and/or high volume. Here's what I did to modify the case and it seemed to help a lot:


It appears there are, or were, two versions of this amp. One has bottom mounted heat spreader and one has top mounted large heat sink.
This video is about the heat spreader version. Is it no longer relevant due to the new version with heat sink?
 

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