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Fosi Audio BT20A Pro Amplifier Review

Rate this stereo amplifier

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 4 1.3%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 35 11.0%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 187 58.8%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 92 28.9%

  • Total voters
    318
Hi everyone!

It's a shame it can't be turned on and off remotely but I'm going with this one and add a WiFi-controllable power plug.

But the question is which power supply should I be using with my Dali Spektor 1 pair (6ohm speakers maximum 100W RMS)

Is the 48V too much or justified for the speakers?

The manufacturer specs them at 83dB 2.83V/1m

I'm going to use them at 3 meters and want to be able to reach about 90dB (with the two).
 
Hi Tanegashima,

my recommendation is to use the Meanwell LRS-200-36 or the LRS-200-48. I think it's a good compromise between lifetime of the amplifier as well as maximum power, as both have an adjustable voltage level.
 
Hi Tanegashima,

my recommendation is to use the Meanwell LRS-200-36 or the LRS-200-48. I think it's a good compromise between lifetime of the amplifier as well as maximum power, as both have an adjustable voltage level.

Thanks for the fine recommendation, but this time I'm just interested in a P&P (Pay and Play) solution and be happy with it ;). By the way, their voltage level adjust is just for small corrections, not a variable power supply.

According to the tables, I loose 9.5dB for the 3m distance, so 90 + 9.5 - 83 = 16.5dB more than the 2.83V @ 6Ohm @ 1 meter specified (1.33W), that's 60W total or 30W per channel.

30W into 6ohms needs 13.4Vrms, which is 19Vpp, which in turn need 38V single power supply.

I think I'll go with the 48V @ 5 Amps.

Tell me if I'm wrong.
 
According to Fosi the 48V power supply may impact the amplifier's lifetime, so I would stay around 40V as a compromise.
The Meanwell LRS have an adjustable range range of 10V (36V) / 17V (48V; of which 7V are useful:41-48V, otherwise exceeding the amplifier's limit), so it is a significant range.
In any case you need to have the right DC plug. Not a big deal but doesn't fulfill your criteria.
 
Thanks for the fine recommendation, but this time I'm just interested in a P&P (Pay and Play) solution and be happy with it ;). By the way, their voltage level adjust is just for small corrections, not a variable power supply.

According to the tables, I loose 9.5dB for the 3m distance, so 90 + 9.5 - 83 = 16.5dB more than the 2.83V @ 6Ohm @ 1 meter specified (1.33W), that's 60W total or 30W per channel.

30W into 6ohms needs 13.4Vrms, which is 19Vpp, which in turn need 38V single power supply.

I think I'll go with the 48V @ 5 Amps.

Tell me if I'm wrong.

Close enough, but for better accuracy, check your calculations and you should find that it would be more like 45 WPC, not 60 W.

A 36 V 8 to 10 A PS should be good but Fosi seems to have the 48 V 5A or 10 A ones to choose from. For best performance, the 10 A version is better, obviously. The 32 V one is adequate too as your requirement is only 90 dB, or 87 dB per speaker, assuming that's the highest peak in the contents you listen to.

The Mean well ones suggested seems great for specs, just not sure if they are suitable for hifi amplifiers, they likely are. If it is, then I think the LRS 350-36 would be a good choice based on its voltage and current specs.

 
According to Fosi the 48V power supply may impact the amplifier's lifetime, so I would stay around 40V as a compromise.
The Meanwell LRS have an adjustable range range of 10V (36V) / 17V (48V; of which 7V are useful:41-48V, otherwise exceeding the amplifier's limit), so it is a significant range.
In any case you need to have the right DC plug. Not a big deal but doesn't fulfill your criteria.
Where did Fosi say that the power supply they sell actually shortens the amplifier's life?
 
When I was looking for a power supply for my BT20A Pro I reached out to Fosi Audio.
Carl responded to me via mail:

"... In terms of power output, both the 48V / 4.4A and 36V / 5.9A variants should provide similar results for your amplifier.
However, there are some factors to consider when choosing between the two options.

The 36V variant may be better for the longevity of the parts used in the amplifier, as it will put less stress on the components due to the lower voltage. However, this may come at the cost of slightly reduced performance. The 48V variant may provide slightly better performance, but could potentially cause more wear and tear on the amplifier components over time.

Ultimately, the decision between the two options will depend on your priorities. If you prioritize longevity and reliability, the 36V variant may be the better choice. If you prioritize performance, the 48V variant may be the better option. ..."

Since I wanted to have a passively cooled power supply and the 200W are sufficient for me, I chose the LRS 36V. Currently I use it for my BT30 Pro (two speakers + passive sub) that accepts max. 36V.
 
When I was looking for a power supply for my BT20A Pro I reached out to Fosi Audio.
Carl responded to me via mail:

"... In terms of power output, both the 48V / 4.4A and 36V / 5.9A variants should provide similar results for your amplifier.
However, there are some factors to consider when choosing between the two options.

The 36V variant may be better for the longevity of the parts used in the amplifier, as it will put less stress on the components due to the lower voltage. However, this may come at the cost of slightly reduced performance. The 48V variant may provide slightly better performance, but could potentially cause more wear and tear on the amplifier components over time.

Ultimately, the decision between the two options will depend on your priorities. If you prioritize longevity and reliability, the 36V variant may be the better choice. If you prioritize performance, the 48V variant may be the better option. ..."

Since I wanted to have a passively cooled power supply and the 200W are sufficient for me, I chose the LRS 36V. Currently I use it for my BT30 Pro (two speakers + passive sub) that accepts max. 36V.

They, fosi Audio, gave you a generic answer to your question. The answer I gave in my post was for specific use cases, taking into account of the OP's speaker impedance.
So, in reality, the fact is, 4 ohms nominal speakers typically may have impedance dip to below 3 ohm, even 2.5, 2 ohms.. So in that case, the 36 V 5.9 A would likely perform better. I gave a slightly more technical answer, because this is a science centric forum, otherwise I would stick with Watts and avoid talking in terms of voltage and current altogether lol..

Power = V^2/|Z|, but also = I^2*|Z|

Assuming an 8 ohm resistive load, 48 V, 4.4 A will give you about 211 W.
whereas the 36 V 5.9 A will give you about 212 W

So in terms of W, they are the same, but again, W is not a good way to look at it, the fact is, 4 ohm nominal speakers with dips to below 3 A, could demand much higher current than 8 ohm nominal speakers, all else being equal, so the 36 V 5.9 A power supply is the preferred one. Your choice..:) The 36 V will potential perform better in sound quality, and put less stress on the amp, the 48 V one would lose on both counts. However, the opposite could be true for 8 ohm nominal speakers depending on how close your actual demand is, to the rated output. If you only push to say 30% of the rated output, then just flip the coin, or still take the 36 V one is you are concerned about the little better longevity of the amp.
 
Thanks for the fine recommendation, but this time I'm just interested in a P&P (Pay and Play) solution and be happy with it ;). By the way, their voltage level adjust is just for small corrections, not a variable power supply.

According to the tables, I loose 9.5dB for the 3m distance, so 90 + 9.5 - 83 = 16.5dB more than the 2.83V @ 6Ohm @ 1 meter specified (1.33W), that's 60W total or 30W per channel.

30W into 6ohms needs 13.4Vrms, which is 19Vpp, which in turn need 38V single power supply.

I think I'll go with the 48V @ 5 Amps.

Tell me if I'm wrong.
To achieve 16.5 dB you need about 80Wrms on your speakers. So 2x80=160W+35W(loss)=195W minimum
The TPA3255 achieves your 80W at a minimum of 31V DC. R=4Ohm
A 13.4 Vrms, it is not 19 Vpp but 37.8Vpp.

Power supply theoretically 36V 200W
The amplifier will not get as hot and will last longer.
 
Does the amp have any capacitors that can't handle the 50V?

I've checked the NE5532 opamps and they are rated only for -22V to +22V, or 44 volts, 4 volts short of 48V.

That's not a problem for me, they are cheap components and easy to substitute, I was already thinking of replacing them with an Analog Devices Opamp.
 
Does the amp have any capacitors that can't handle the 50V?

I've checked the NE5532 opamps and they are rated only for -22V to +22V, or 44 volts, 4 volts short of 48V.

That's not a problem for me, they are cheap components and easy to substitute, I was already thinking of replacing them with an Analog Devices Opamp.

Do you have the schematic diagrams of the amp? Without that, we don't know what voltages are applied to the pampas and the various capacitors. The 48 VDC you are referring to, I assume, is just the rated output voltage of the power supply.
 
Do you have the schematic diagrams of the amp? Without that, we don't know what voltages are applied to the pampas and the various capacitors. The 48 VDC you are referring to, I assume, is just the rated output voltage of the power supply.
No, but I don't see any circuit for DC-DC conversion in the pictures.

Anyway, the Aliexpress store wasn't sending my unit so I went with Amazon Spain and the 36V version. The maximum volume is still okay and in normal listening gives me the bass/treble adjustments I want (I'm only using a little bit of treble for my speakers).

Now comes the hard part... the CD!
 
Since you seem to be listening, I want to give you this suggestion that nobody seems to think about.
For 200 it would be enough, maintaining these amplification characteristics, to insert a display, two or three analog inputs (we are all full of DACs anyway) and A HIGH PASS FILTER OPTION for the loudspeakers, with RCA sub output.
You would probably sell thousands just among forum users.
And if with these characteristics it were possible to make the response independent of the load, I would put

Thank you for your response. I don't doubt you have tested it. -For how long and with what power output?

I know most class D amps integrated into thousands of utilities like soundbars, subwoofers, bluetooth speakers, TV's etc. Here the thought process seems to be something along the lines that the duty cycle of use is low enough so no cooling is necessary.

I think differently of a dedicated amplifier which advertised power output is just high enough that the use case can be to drive decent speakers and thus pulling more power.
Many subwoofer plateamps are also fully closed. No vents. Seems strange to me and I cannot quite accept it. Kind of something wrong.
 
I have one of these arriving soon. I also have a fosi audio P3 preamplifier. If I buy another bt20a pro can I hook them both up to the P3?
 
Hello All,

My wife wanted sound on her desktop for Zoom meetings. We installed a TB10D Fosi amplifier. That cute little thing does an amazing job with computer soundcard audio.

I have a extra LG V60 cell phone loaded audio files that I use over bluetooth in my car for road trips.

Yesterday for a black Friday discount I ordered a BT20A PRO. The amplifier arrived on my doorstep this morning equipped with the orange knob. It made me smile.

Now I am in the process of hooking things up to see how bluetooth audio works on my desktop.

Thanks DT
 
I bought a BT20 pro 6 month ago and the volume knob is begining to be "noisy" in my speaker ... Somebody know the rotary potentiometer reference for something similar but better ! I hope this should be a simple DIY repaired ... Thanks
 
It is for modern desktop use where you have just a DAC feeding it, powering a pair of bookshelf speakers.

The original Fosi BT20a and the BT20a Pro also play well with the long forgotten "Power Tower" class of loudspeakers.

As a broke, divorced, unemployed pandemic person, I bought a pair of 1990s Polk RT1000P loudspeakers. They were $100 and even had the deluxe cherry veneer finish. The built in 35 watt amplifier did the heaving lifting while the Fosi powered the 8 ohm, 90 db sensitivity, bookshelf "top" of the loudspeakers.

Digital over the air "TV" audio, Roku streaming, 256 kb AAC iPhone, and CDs were converted to analog by a $13 Muso DAC.

The whole setup has zero snob appeal, but it works.

With the upgraded BT20a Pro, I'll be using the pre-out to integrate a curb pickup 1990s MB Quart D1000si subwoofer that is being serviced to add some real bass to the system,
 
OK, I'm a bit thick. I'm having a hard time getting my head around this whole topic. I feed my signal from my PC through a DAC, and then from RCAs out the back of the DAC into a Yamaha amp that weights 9847.4 pounds and is about half the size as a Ford truck factory. I then have two tall-boy speakers attached to the amp, and thats it.
But now I can lug the yamaha to a landfill and replace it with this dinky thing and it will power my speakers? Is this for real? Surely I'm missing something...
 
OK, I'm a bit thick. I'm having a hard time getting my head around this whole topic. I feed my signal from my PC through a DAC, and then from RCAs out the back of the DAC into a Yamaha amp that weights 9847.4 pounds and is about half the size as a Ford truck factory. I then have two tall-boy speakers attached to the amp, and thats it.
But now I can lug the yamaha to a landfill and replace it with this dinky thing and it will power my speakers? Is this for real? Surely I'm missing something...
Not exactly. What model of Yamaha amp do you have?
 
Not exactly. What model of Yamaha amp do you have?
OK, I'm in my office now...but already I gather that's not how it works. So still run the signal through a traditional amp, and then through this baby on the way to the speakers? Or vice-versa, from my music source through this and into the amp (if my amp can't hack the speaker load on its own)? Anyway, thanks for quick response. I'm going to catch a train, but I hope to hear (in brief) what I'm missing...
 
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