I think you many not be considering the biggest factor regarding volume. The volume falls 6 dB with every doubling of distance. The most common use for the 8010s is desktop use at <1 meter distance. The benefit of the mid-sized and larger Genelecs isn't really that you want to blow out your ears, but rather a benefit of distance. Genelec has a speaker distance guide (https://www.genelec.com/correct-monitors). While it doesn't have the 8010, you can see that the 8320 @ 1 meter, 8330 @ 1.5 meters, 8340 @ 4 meters and 8350 @ 10 meters all have 94-95 dB long-term spl. That is the difference, the 8010 has very limited volume headroom at 3-5 meters or more. Not everyone is buying these to place on top of a mixing console. This can be further exasperated in a room where the speakers will lack boundry reinforcement by being placed away from the back wall or where all of the demension of the room are long enough to not get bass reinforcement at usable frequencies.Reading these opinions makes me wonder just how loud people crank their monitors. I got 4 8010s for a quadrophonic home studio set up and I have to say they can get plenty loud. They have a surprising amount of low-end clarity, but they are definitely not showing me the very-low to sub-bass spectrum of my mixes. That's to be expected. This is why I came here to look for recommendations on a sub.
You don't really want hi-fi subwoofer for mixing, but pro audio subwoofer that has balanced stereo inputs and balanced stereo output. You connect DAC / audio interface to subwoofer. The signal gets split - low passed to subwoofer itself and high passed to speaker outputs. That way you don't add a big bump to bass frequency response, but rather extend it to lower frequencies and the overall sound should stay balanced and neutral.Buy 8030Cs now and then get an SVS SB-1000 or whatever later if you feel like it.
Fair point. My home studio is quite small and the listening distance is indeed <1 meter. I suppose I just felt someone had to speak out in favor of the 8010s. They are surprisingly good in a small home studio like mine, and once I get a sub I think I'll be totally satisfied. Incidentally I'm looking at the Genelec 7040A. I was hoping for a more affordable option, but the 7040A is the only design that seems compact enough to still allow my whole studio to be packed into a suitcase.I think you many not be considering the biggest factor regarding volume. The volume falls 6 dB with every doubling of distance.
Well, if your B2031As conform to the measurements that @sweetchaos found posted here...Not to dissuade you, but Genelec are not the the only fish in the sea. I found the bass lacking with the 8030c compared to the much cheaper Behringer B2031A. There was relatively similar sound otherwise, with the Genelec being brighter and the Behringer being somewhat flatter or duller sounding (which I prefer, especially as the volume goes up). Ultimately, there wasn't a whole lot of difference according to my ears, but the difference there was (in the bass) I considered significant.
Whoops. Usually you'd be including some dropper resistors in series to bring input voltage down under these circumstances. Considering such blatant disregard for part limitations, they actually seem to be quite reliable.The voltage input to the regulators is over 40V on both of the amplifiers in the speakers, which is 5v higher than 7915 maximum rating of 35v - this is Behringer being cheap.
I have one where the bass driver is cutting in and out. I presume an amplifier problem of some kind, but yeah it is 10+ years old, so still pretty good value, I suppose.Yeah I like speakers like the 2031 over smaller ones + sub my self, I prefer everything coming from the same spot.
My only concern about behringers is their life span and whether the amps will fail. Plenty of reports of this but most are very old, like 10 years at least. I wish they still sold the passive model.
I don't have anything to measure them in room and I did suggest they lean rather more towards the dull than lively, but I still set mine at -2db on the treble. I found the -2db treble tilt on the Genelec still too bright.Well, if your B2031As conform to the measurements that @sweetchaos found posted here...
...relative woofer and tweeter levels do not seem to be set quite right straight out of the factory. At least I think it's too much of a coincidence that there is a shelving down of ~4 dB right around crossover. That's too much even for the slight tilt up that follows. Not sure what happened there, maybe the tweeter type changed or something. The treble tilt looks similar to what was addressed here via either EQ or modification. I guess having a measurement mic and the schematics on hand will not hurt when getting these.
Yes and no. Harman's sample is too limited and concentrated around direct radiating speakers. Sloping down means also narrowing of beamwidth, which is on itself another variable one might want to control. With a waveguide that keeps the angle constant for the tweeter, the rule of a flat on axis, sloping in-room response does not seem to be correct. There would be too much overall HF energy. One can therefore attenuate the on-axis response to retain a natural reproduction of the frequency spectrum.Hasn't research from Harmon shown that many people prefer a sloping response speaker to a flat one? YMMV, but absent a decent mic to set up EQ, I'd rather live with a slightly dull speaker than a slightly lively one, given I find listener fatigue sets in easily for me whenever there is an excess of highs.
Well, if your B2031As conform to the measurements that @sweetchaos found posted here...
...relative woofer and tweeter levels do not seem to be set quite right straight out of the factory. At least I think it's too much of a coincidence that there is a shelving down of ~4 dB right around crossover. That's too much even for the slight tilt up that follows. Not sure what happened there, maybe the tweeter type changed or something. The treble tilt looks similar to what was addressed here via either EQ or modification. I guess having a measurement mic and the schematics on hand will not hurt when getting these.
Whoops. Usually you'd be including some dropper resistors in series to bring input voltage down under these circumstances. Considering such blatant disregard for part limitations, they actually seem to be quite reliable.