Flux

[Omar Cumming]

I think we are way over complicating a rather simple question!

Cheers

 

[Thorskin]

I think we are way over complicating a rather simple question!

Cheers

Lol, I think so, I am not understanding any/most of it, but I welcome people to discuss it nonetheless, it seems like a interesting discussion.
I am not going to be doing any SMD work atm, mostly point to point or through hole like DonH56 has said.
I did not even know people use hot air guns to solder but from the few videos i have seen it looks like a great method for certain applications.

I got some 60/40 Loctite 362 rosin cored solder (aka multicore?) from ebay , I dont think it is RMA or RA but it should be good for now to practice with.
The 63/37 would have been a good choice but it was a pretty big spool I had to get, for some reason it is hard to buy 63/37 in the UK. Actually most leaded solder is more difficult to get here.
I will probably buy some 63/37 RMA/RA solder eventually though.
I also bought some cheap solid rosin flux to experiment with, maybe I will dilute some in some iso for a liquid form.

 

[Thorskin]

1) Your chosen solder wire is fine. I prefer kester mainly because I found its flux core more effective.

2) use the RA paste and stay away from "No clean". No clean flux really needs cleaning since they are conductive. Rosin is totally fine to leave uncleaned and will offer extra protection.

Thanks, I actually went for a different solder that I hope will be fine for now (I will still probably get the 63/37 anyway later). If I enjoy the hobby enough I might even get some Kester 44 63/37 although I wish it came on smaller spools.

I decided to stay away from No clean flux like you said and just got a small tub of Rosin that some people really like, should be interesting to experiment with, although the rosin core will probably be enough like others have said.

 

[Dumdum]

Oh really? So many videos say its super important even if you use rosin cored solder.
I could try just using rosin core solder for now and get some flux if I struggle.

I’ve never used flux other than for plumbing I’m an auto electrician by trade and have 25 yrs soldering

 

[mansr]

The 63/37 would have been a good choice but it was a pretty big spool I had to get, for some reason it is hard to buy 63/37 in the UK. Actually most leaded solder is more difficult to get here.

63/37 is preferable since that's a eutectic alloy, meaning it has a single, well-defined melting point (183 °C). 60/40 isn't fully melted until 190 °C. In the intervening interval, it is in a plastic state which increases the risk of bad joint.

You can get lead based solder from Farnell or RS. Just remember to wash your hands, and don't touch your face.

 

[DonH56]

I’ve never used flux other than for plumbing I’m an auto electrician by trade and have 25 yrs soldering

Chances are the solder you've used for electrical repairs has rosin (flux) in the core.

63/37 is preferable since that's a eutectic alloy, meaning it has a single, well-defined melting point (183 °C). 60/40 isn't fully melted until 190 °C. In the intervening interval, it is in a plastic state which increases the risk of bad joint.

You can get lead based solder from Farnell or RS. Just remember to wash your hands, and don't touch your face.

And, don't breathe the fumes! Hard to avoid, but try. A little desktop or USB fan on low positioned to create a very gentle breeze (one you can barely feel) blowing the fumes away can be helpful. And wear safety glasses, especially starting out, for those moments when you inadvertently flip solder all over. Oh, and wear old shirt and pants... Buy some clamps to hold stuff and to keep from melting half the insulation off the wires whilst learning. Heat the wire, not the solder. Etc. -- There are probably some good introductory pamphlets as well as books you can buy. Weller used to have some nice handouts, check out their website.

 

[Dumdum]

Chances are the solder you've used for electrical repairs has rosin (flux) in the core.

Of course it has rosin in the core, clearly this guy was talking about needing separate flux and my response was to this specific point hence me quoting it, but thanks for the life lesson... haha... thanks captain obvious

 

[Thorskin]

Buy some clamps to hold stuff and to keep from melting half the insulation off the wires whilst learning.

Wow I did not even think that the clamps did this! I just thought they only held things for me. Thanks for the tip

Ill be shopping for my assortment of components to make a CMoy soon, ill buy some 63/37 solder along with it, and some solder wick as i forgot to get that, ill most likely need something like that

 

[DonH56]

Of course it has rosin in the core, clearly this guy was talking about needing separate flux and my response was to this specific point hence me quoting it, but thanks for the life lesson... haha... thanks captain obvious

You're welcome, but I was more concerned about the newbies who might not realize that most common electrical solder includes flux in the core. I've been soldering for some 50 years, but had to learn in the beginning like everyone else, and did not know what solder was or how to use it. Did not think of it as a "life lesson", however. It did start me down a career path, so maybe it was.

 

[Rigel]

It is like a universal constant, which deserves an in-depth study. The welding smoke always goes towards us ...

The additional flux for a normal solder is not necessary, logically it already incorporates tin, but for me it is useful for other cases where it can be inconvenient or we simply do not want to add more tin to the solder for whatever reasons.
Separating very close welds with very close tracks or pins, also helps to improve the penetration or spread of tin in narrow areas, or with surfaces that are not very clean, improve the appearance of the weld, etc. I can live without it, but it costs little and sometimes one misses it.

What I do think is more important when welding, is how much heat is transferred and in what way to the element that we want to weld to get the right temperature.
Sometimes it is convenient to play with the heat resistance of the element to be welded and the mass of the soldering iron tip to heat an area enough, but not the closest, or just cool it. Tolerance of the component to temperature, if the element to be welded has more or less mass, also the greater or lesser amount of heat that can transfer the soldering iron tip according to its size / mass and not only the power. Greater or lesser amount of contact surface to improve heat transfer or simply because it needs to be adapted to the size of the weld, etc.

 

[mansr]

You're welcome, but I was more concerned about the newbies who might not realize that most common electrical solder includes flux in the core. I've been soldering for some 50 years, but had to learn in the beginning like everyone else, and did not know what solder was or how to use it. Did not think of it as a "life lesson", however. It did start me down a career path, so maybe it was.

Isn't soldering something everybody just learns, like tying one's shoelaces?

 

[DonH56]

Maybe when we were young...

 

[Rigel]

Forgive the language if I don't explain myself well. I use google translator.

I give you some examples of what we have commented in case you see it interesting.

Sometimes what needs to be soldered is a large connector such as a PL for RF, a battery terminal or the like with enough mass to heat and that enough heat is needed to heat it and it is necessary to use a soldering iron of enough watts with a big tip, or even of gas or really small things like SMD components.

A few years ago, I was dedicated to the liquid cooling of computers and at that time, I wanted to measure certain physical variables in these systems with a data acquisition system. Temperatures, static pressure, flow etc.
Among them, the real-time temperature of the core through the internal diode of the processor, that of the bottom of the processor with an NTC and that of the IHS also with another NTC to see the temperature gradients. For example, each different software program executed, generates a specific temperature pattern over time that can identify it. Or variations of various degrees of temperature in msec.

For this assembly use copper wire as a tip to solder a really small NTC. Depending on the size of the wire and its length, for example, the amount of heat to be supplied can be modulated. At that time I did not have a soldering station and still do not have one.
In these cases, lighting and a magnifying glass are also important. Especially when we start to have a certain age.

I put a link of the assembly.

http://www.devilmaster.org/sections.php?op=viewarticle&artid=44&page=10

 

[Doodski]

Forgive the language if I don't explain myself well. I use google translator.

I give you some examples of what we have commented in case you see it interesting.

Sometimes what needs to be soldered is a large connector such as a PL for RF, a battery terminal or the like with enough mass to heat and that enough heat is needed to heat it and it is necessary to use a soldering iron of enough watts with a big tip, or even of gas or really small things like SMD components.

A few years ago, I was dedicated to the liquid cooling of computers and at that time, I wanted to measure certain physical variables in these systems with a data acquisition system. Temperatures, static pressure, flow etc.
Among them, the real-time temperature of the core through the internal diode of the processor, that of the bottom of the processor with an NTC and that of the IHS also with another NTC to see the temperature gradients. For example, each different software program executed, generates a specific temperature pattern over time that can identify it. Or variations of various degrees of temperature in msec.

For this assembly use copper wire as a tip to solder a really small NTC. Depending on the size of the wire and its length, for example, the amount of heat to be supplied can be modulated. At that time I did not have a soldering station and still do not have one.
In these cases, lighting and a magnifying glass are also important. Especially when we start to have a certain age.

I put a link of the assembly.

http://www.devilmaster.org/sections.php?op=viewarticle&artid=44&page=10

That's some serious DIY OC stuff

 

[Rigel]

Yes, it was fun and I learned a lot

 

[mansr]

In general, one should use as large a tip as is practical, a smaller one suffering more cooling by the thing being soldered. With good temperature regulation, there is no such thing as too much power. Too little power, on the other hand, causes excessive temperature drop at the tip, reducing heat transfer and increasing the time required to complete the joint, in turn increasing the risk of damaging components.

 

[raindance]

Get a powerful enough soldering iron with controllable temperature, if you can, so you can accommodate leaded and unleaded rosin core solder. I use a Weller with tips that can be easily changed; the tip controls the temp.

 

[mansr]

Get a powerful enough soldering iron with controllable temperature, if you can, so you can accommodate leaded and unleaded rosin core solder. I use a Weller with tips that can be easily changed; the tip controls the temp.

Is that the magnetic regulation type? Those are better than no regulation, obviously, but I wouldn't recommend them for sensitive work. Electronic regulation can react more quickly and permits continuously adjustable temperature. A decent control unit will vary the power as necessary (not just on/off) to maintain a tip temperature close to the requested.

Like with many things, it can be tempting to get something cheap if one doesn't expect to use it much. To an extent, that makes sense, but going too cheap will only make for unnecessary difficulty. Anyone intending on doing soldering work regularly, if infrequently, should at least get something good enough to avoid cursing every time.

 

[Rigel]

Effectively, the soldering iron tip, acts as a quick heat buffer.

Also in agreement regarding the minimum quality of the soldering iron / tip. Some tips either wear prematurely or the coating they have, the tin does not impregnate the tip as it should and the typical balls are formed on its surface.

The tip should look like it is "wet" from the tin. In this case, it improves the thermal contact and therefore heat transfer.

I personally prefer to have a simple but quality welder, than a bad adjustable station. In fact, I've only had soldering stations at work. At home I have never had the need to have any. I only have three welders of different power / size. Maybe I'll buy one.

 

[Thorskin]

In general, one should use as large a tip as is practical, a smaller one suffering more cooling by the thing being soldered. With good temperature regulation, there is no such thing as too much power. Too little power, on the other hand, causes excessive temperature drop at the tip, reducing heat transfer and increasing the time required to complete the joint, in turn increasing the risk of damaging components.

I am getting the TS80 soldering iron which is said to be quite good, (probably OTT for me but I need something I can use with a battery pack.)
How do I know what temperature to use? My iron has a chisel tip like the one in the middle of this picture

, I was thinking of getting a conical tip (the TS-B02) for it but the TS80 tips are like £15-20 each!
I would prefer to save that money if you think the chisel tip is good enough.