Yes we can and its not even about if we care or not. Its about what we are getting for the price, if someone sells something for $3k claiming its the best there is and in reality its not even better than any mediocre $100 whatever type of gear it is who is more full of shit, the guy claiming that its the best when its not or the guy saying science matters most even if people or some people wouldnt even notice a difference (but they could spend less money).
Well, not any better according to our ceased-to-be-audibility-correlated-several-decibels-ago measurements, to be strict. Much like asking if one infinity is larger than another, asking if one inaudibility is better than another seems a bit odd to me, at a listener level. Now, if a firm advertises a product as having best-in-class or best-in-world measurements and it doesn't, that's an entirely different matter, misleading or deceptive advertising being caught out is a major merit to independent testing.
But, for a lot of the $1000+ products that're measured here and perform poorly, the manufacturer's specs and marketing didn't claim incredible - or in many cases even "better than mediocre" - performance in the first place. If folks buy them, presumably they're not expecting extremely low nonlinearities, and I'm not entirely clear on what makes it more reasonable to complain about a $3000 DAC that measures like a $50 unit which doesn't equally well support complaining about a $2000 pro audio interface not using the DACs and ADCs from a $100 unit and a housing made from 50 troy ounces of silver¹, when all devices involved don't have audibly differentiable levels of noise or distortion with the speakers and program material we actually use.
¹: and if you're interested in such a product, please make your voice heard, because I may not know a lot about silver, but I can learn.