OP
- Thread Starter
- #21
Arrow is out of stock with a minimum order of 50. TME is cheaper, but also out of stock.
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Finding the Right DSP Box for Subwoofer Crossover and PEQ
- Thread starter maverickronin
- Start date
Arrow is out of stock with a minimum order of 50. TME is cheaper, but also out of stock.
OP
- Thread Starter
- #22
I've been experimenting with the BLU-160 and I'm more or less happy so far.
Re-IPing and reprogramming it was quite simple. Actually too simple, since there's not any security on these things at all. Anyone on the same subnet can just hijack it with their own instance of Audio Architect. No password, so not even a need for a factory reset.. Better VLAN these off very tightly at your church or whatever.
On the plus side, the software was very well behaved otherwise and neither it or the device have attempted to phone home.
I tested all inputs and outputs and everything worked.
I've replaced the 4 stock fans with with Noctua NF-A4x20 5V. It's quieter now and I can't really hear it over the air purifier I always have running anyway.
I ran a few quick sanity tests with Arta and my old Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 1st gen. The BLU-160's full output is too hot for the 2i2's line in, but with what I could get the 2nd harmonic was about -95dB if you properly ran it into another balanced in and only -75dB or so if you just take one leg to use it single ended. Not SOTA, but not an audible problem
Latency was excellent as well. Using Oblique Audio's RTL Utility, adding the BLU-160 (in 96kHz processing mode) the loop added just a bit over 1ms to the 2i2's own loopback. Fortunately mine came with the rev. B analog in cards which have lower latency than the original rev. A.
What is disappointing is the noise level, although I did expect it. Running it into my Drop THX 789 on the negative gain setting still had hiss with sensitive headphones so there's not going to be any messing around with the control logic and GPIO to replicate all the functionality of my ADI-2 DAC. It added hiss to my speakers well but fortunately it's only audible at less than a foot or so.
Re-IPing and reprogramming it was quite simple. Actually too simple, since there's not any security on these things at all. Anyone on the same subnet can just hijack it with their own instance of Audio Architect. No password, so not even a need for a factory reset.. Better VLAN these off very tightly at your church or whatever.
On the plus side, the software was very well behaved otherwise and neither it or the device have attempted to phone home.
I tested all inputs and outputs and everything worked.
I've replaced the 4 stock fans with with Noctua NF-A4x20 5V. It's quieter now and I can't really hear it over the air purifier I always have running anyway.
I ran a few quick sanity tests with Arta and my old Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 1st gen. The BLU-160's full output is too hot for the 2i2's line in, but with what I could get the 2nd harmonic was about -95dB if you properly ran it into another balanced in and only -75dB or so if you just take one leg to use it single ended. Not SOTA, but not an audible problem
Latency was excellent as well. Using Oblique Audio's RTL Utility, adding the BLU-160 (in 96kHz processing mode) the loop added just a bit over 1ms to the 2i2's own loopback. Fortunately mine came with the rev. B analog in cards which have lower latency than the original rev. A.
What is disappointing is the noise level, although I did expect it. Running it into my Drop THX 789 on the negative gain setting still had hiss with sensitive headphones so there's not going to be any messing around with the control logic and GPIO to replicate all the functionality of my ADI-2 DAC. It added hiss to my speakers well but fortunately it's only audible at less than a foot or so.
OP
- Thread Starter
- #23
Wow. I can't believe it's been almost a year, but I finally got my subs built and installed.
I got 4 of the Dayton Ultimax 12" kits and put them back to back to make two dual opposed subs. The force canceling lets me reclaim some space by putting shelves on top of them.
So far I've just made an LR48 crossover at 80hz and set the levels by ear but they are already pretty good. Have two really is great as just switching one on and off reveals that they are working together to suppress a really annoying room mode. I have them opposite each other at as close to mid-wall as the rest of the room will allow
Hopefully I'll have time this weekend to take some measurements with REW to set the delays and levels properly and generate a PEQ for the remaining room modes.
Maybe I'll eventually get into MSO if I'm still not satisfied.
I got 4 of the Dayton Ultimax 12" kits and put them back to back to make two dual opposed subs. The force canceling lets me reclaim some space by putting shelves on top of them.
So far I've just made an LR48 crossover at 80hz and set the levels by ear but they are already pretty good. Have two really is great as just switching one on and off reveals that they are working together to suppress a really annoying room mode. I have them opposite each other at as close to mid-wall as the rest of the room will allow
Hopefully I'll have time this weekend to take some measurements with REW to set the delays and levels properly and generate a PEQ for the remaining room modes.
Maybe I'll eventually get into MSO if I'm still not satisfied.
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