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FiiO K7

Optical usually has a lower max sample rate, USB can go higher, that's the main advantage. Toslink usually you want to set to 96/24 or below, some stuff will do 192 but other stuff won't. Original spec was 48/20 but 96/24 is 100% reliable over it with anything I have used. But it is an issue that you can't play 192/24 native content over most Toslink, you need to downsample. This isn't a problem, but it does mean you can't use exclusive mode in Tidal for example, it will play the 96/24 and below tracks normally but if a 192/24 one comes on you'll just get silence. I guess you could use exclusive mode if you set Tidal to "HiFi", where Tidal downsamples on their side but then you wouldn't get the 96/24 stuff either.

Optical jitter may be worse but I doubt to the point it matters. You won't likely hear any of this stuff, I do not believe personally in Hi-Res, but it's one of the reasons people pick USB over optical. If you have some sort of ground loop or electrical noise issue optical will break the electrical connection and can be cleaner, I have used it in exactly this sort of situation, where if there was ANY copper connection between two devices (even an unrelated one I wasn't using) I'd get noise, but it would go away with the optical. If you have this issue, any of USB, coax SPDIF or analog RCA connections usually create the same problem, optical fixes it.

None of these "issues" with optical are really a problem, it's just some differences that might impact how you use your setup. I largely standardised on 96/24 with Windows shared audio because I was using Toslink, not actually as my primary DAC connection (which was USB) but for a secondary one. So just leaving it at 96/24 was simpler. I don't tend to use exclusive mode anyway as (1) with overears I pretty much always EQ (2) with IEMs I don't but exclusive mode has high risk of blasting your eardrums out at 100% volume, and the Tidal app volume control is very bad, keyboard it jumps in 10% increments and it's much harder to get to the right level with an IEM.

Optical in my experience will also go further, spec is 10m and you can I believe even push that. I had a 5m Toslink cable feeding a DAC that far away and that works flawlessly. While USB Audio, for me, at least on the particular cable I tried it with, wouldn't work over a 3m cable. Cable worked fine for regular USB, but not audio. 2m cable from the same brand worked flawlessly.
 
Sorry if this has been asked before, I have searched though the forum and reviews but I cant seem to fgind an answer?
In my case I have both a 560s unblanced and a hifiman planar on 4.4 balanced.
What happens if I plug in both 4.4 balanced AND unbalanced at the same time?
does the k7:
1) output to balanced only?
2) output to unbalanced only?
3) output to both
4) output to neither/blowup/end of the world?

If it is 3, as I suspect, then
a) does the k7 deliver the max power to both or do they share the power? does it sound as good?
b) can I switch between them on the unit, I see no switches to do this?

Bonus:
Can I record, such as audacity, from the line in? that is to say, does the line in appear as a recording device in windows?

Thanks in advance for any help?
 
output to both
Thanks.
I assume it shares the power?
Sounds about the same.?
Only way to avoid this would be to keep plugging in and unplugging headphones as needed I assume?
No hidden switch to flick between the headphones outputs?
 
Full power on both.
Yes unplugging headphones the only way or switch to speakers obviously.
 
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Tested for you... Audeze LCD-XC from 4.4mm balanced. And Oppo PM3 from 3.5mm SE. At the same time.

Both planers sound fine. The PM3s need a touch more on the knob to match volume. Besides, they are harder to drive.

BTW...
1. I got used to the sensitive volume control. Not a problem.
2. Testing with a borrowed 12v Linear power supply, and there is an overall improvement. Like a thin veil lifted.
Bass is "tighter" (fast transients?). Vocal and cymbals are noticeably clearer. Now, I have a 12v LPS on order from Aliexpress.
 
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Doesn't the K7 have the volume increment problem on the knob?
It would be nice to have a more useful range when on high gain. However I quickly adapted to making very small adjustments in the 10:00 to 11:30 range.

Loving the sound quality with the K7 (using a LPS).
 
I just got a FiiO K7 today, which I'm using as a DAC. I like the sound a lot. It's slightly bass-boosted, but not in a bad way.
Peaks are all at exactly 0dB:
1664675086-Multitone.jpg
 
Optical usually has a lower max sample rate, USB can go higher, that's the main advantage. Toslink usually you want to set to 96/24 or below, some stuff will do 192 but other stuff won't. Original spec was 48/20 but 96/24 is 100% reliable over it with anything I have used. But it is an issue that you can't play 192/24 native content over most Toslink, you need to downsample. This isn't a problem, but it does mean you can't use exclusive mode in Tidal for example, it will play the 96/24 and below tracks normally but if a 192/24 one comes on you'll just get silence. I guess you could use exclusive mode if you set Tidal to "HiFi", where Tidal downsamples on their side but then you wouldn't get the 96/24 stuff either.

Optical jitter may be worse but I doubt to the point it matters. You won't likely hear any of this stuff, I do not believe personally in Hi-Res, but it's one of the reasons people pick USB over optical. If you have some sort of ground loop or electrical noise issue optical will break the electrical connection and can be cleaner, I have used it in exactly this sort of situation, where if there was ANY copper connection between two devices (even an unrelated one I wasn't using) I'd get noise, but it would go away with the optical. If you have this issue, any of USB, coax SPDIF or analog RCA connections usually create the same problem, optical fixes it.

None of these "issues" with optical are really a problem, it's just some differences that might impact how you use your setup. I largely standardised on 96/24 with Windows shared audio because I was using Toslink, not actually as my primary DAC connection (which was USB) but for a secondary one. So just leaving it at 96/24 was simpler. I don't tend to use exclusive mode anyway as (1) with overears I pretty much always EQ (2) with IEMs I don't but exclusive mode has high risk of blasting your eardrums out at 100% volume, and the Tidal app volume control is very bad, keyboard it jumps in 10% increments and it's much harder to get to the right level with an IEM.

Optical in my experience will also go further, spec is 10m and you can I believe even push that. I had a 5m Toslink cable feeding a DAC that far away and that works flawlessly. While USB Audio, for me, at least on the particular cable I tried it with, wouldn't work over a 3m cable. Cable worked fine for regular USB, but not audio. 2m cable from the same brand worked flawlessly.

The Fiio BTA30 Pro in DAC mode has an annoying startup lag of around half a second with optical in, unless when used with a PC hack that continually sends an inaudible sound signal to prevent it from going into soft standby. Usability issues like this are waaaaaay more important than few dBs of jitter or SINAD etc.

So far the only DAC vendor I used who gets USB, SPDIF and BT all working without issues out of the box is only Topping.
 
How does this compare to the slightly more expensive Topping DX5 Lite in terms of power and low noise floor etc, will mainly use the SE to my headphones and IEMs, I own the DX5 Lite now and like it, but was looking to get something cheaper but as good all-in-one package for work.
 
Doesn't the K7 have the volume increment problem on the knob?
This is a clever way to allow lower volumes to ramp up slowly, for example when driving sensitive earphones (IEMs). Good design feature.
 
This is a clever way to allow lower volumes to ramp up slowly, for example when driving sensitive earphones (IEMs). Good design feature.
Apart from the ramping up slowly, there's also a very noticeable lag. To be honest, it's not a particularly pleasant volume control to use, IMO, it's one of the worse features of the device. I could live with it but I never loved that bit. And a large part of why you get something like this, to be honest, is the knob, it's important to the user experience. K5 Pro was also a digital control but more normally calibrated and no discernable lag.
 
What happens when you instantly want to decrease the volume, like someone enters your room? You have to wait a bit? For how long? I am used to controlling the volume digitally, it is not possible to control the volume on Windows anymore, like in volume settings or on Youtube video?
 
What happens when you instantly want to decrease the volume, like someone enters your room? You have to wait a bit? For how long? I am used to controlling the volume digitally, it is not possible to control the volume on Windows anymore, like in volume settings or on Youtube video?
position the K7 somewhere where you can reach it and a flick of the wrist on the volume knob, or just pause on your interface? and I just checked and Windows 10 is allowing me to control the volume also? (not using exlusive mode tho)

any of these methods seem fairly instantaneous to me, but I'm old so ymmv.
 
What happens when you instantly want to decrease the volume, like someone enters your room? You have to wait a bit? For how long? I am used to controlling the volume digitally, it is not possible to control the volume on Windows anymore, like in volume settings or on Youtube video?
The delay really isn't that bad, less than a second. Only would be slow if you were blasting NSFW content on your speakers while people are home, but I would hope that isn't the case.

For the RCA outputs in the back for speakers, you can either use it as a LO(lineout) with full output, or a pre-amp and control some of the volume there. My speakers have a separate volume knob that I use so I used my K7 in LO. Didn't want to use the preamp with a certain volume along with my speaker's volume set to another level, and then accidentally switch to LO and blast my speakers.

You can still control your volume digitally. You'll probably want to leave Windows volume at max, and then control each app's audio separately. Only time where that doesn't work is in exclusive mode, but that prevents any app from playing audio except for the one that is in exclusive mode. In this situation, you can only control volume through the K7 or if your speakers has its own volume knob.
 
Ordered Creative G8 dac for gamer audience, wonder how it compares to Fiio K7, it's cirrus logic 43198 vs AKM 4493seq. Still keeping k5 ESS on a side, unless some friend asks to sell it, not selling it yet, lol
 
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