FiiO has released the USBDAC JA11, with an initial price of only $9 (69RMB) and support for PEQ DSD128 PCM384

[Jeromeof]

That "Save Settings" button is a different feature I think - maybe its like an export of the PEQ - for me just changing the values will cause them to be saved to the JA11 - try it change some values disconnect and then reconnect and see if it still has the updated values

 

[Slime]

Seems FiiO should release an update this week to fix PEQ issue, let's see!

 

[yafengabc]

If the current 1.8 firmware is set to UAC1.0, Fiio control will connection failure. Re flashing the firmware does not improve, only by flashing back the 1.7 firmware connection and changing to UAC2.0, and then upgrading to 1.8 firmware, can this problem be solved.

 

[hugwolf]

If the current 1.8 firmware is set to UAC1.0, Fiio control will connection failure. Re flashing the firmware does not improve, only by flashing back the 1.7 firmware connection and changing to UAC2.0, and then upgrading to 1.8 firmware, can this problem be solved.

yuck, thanks for the warning

 

[Z-Saber]

There's a new update for the app and a 1.9 JA11 firmware update, but proceed with caution. It bricked mine.

Edit: On the Head-Fi thread for this product, one of FiiO's support/sponsored posters suggested using a PC and trying to flash the firmware update to a device that comes up as COM. Mine showed COM3. I did so and now it seems to work again.

 

[Jeromeof]

Yes I thought it bricked mine but if you use a PC and follow the instructions very carefully about loading the right driver and selecting the right USB device in the firmware update tool it will work.

Added benefit it does also update the JCally 'clone' version also.

 

[hugwolf]

Is the PEQ now fixed?

 

[Jeromeof]

Is the PEQ now fixed?

Yes (and no) - But the 2x Frequency PEQ problem is fixed.

But I thought I was going a little crazy as "occasionally" I was not measuring the right values. I set a filter at 100Hz and sometimes the JA11 use that value then then other times it was 92Hz (just connecting and disconnecting the cable would affect it - not changing the value of the Filter saved to the cable - they never changed in this test).

I thought maybe there is something weird with my setup, so I even went back and measured my Tanchim One DSP cable (and my FreeDSP Cable) with a similar 100Hz filter.

So here are 3 of the measurements:

The yellow is the Tanchim One DSP with a 100Hz filter.
The Red and the Blue are 2 measurements from the JA11 so the blue one is correctly set to 100 (but the dB value is wrong) and the Red one is roughly 92Hz.

But the pattern I spotted (at least with my cable) for this is linked to the distortion levels - when doing the blue measurement the JA11 had terrible (audible) distortion. e.g.

Yet when doing the Red measurement (i.e. the wrong Frequency value) it had very little distortion:

So, I would be great if someone else could try - maybe it is just something odd with my cable.

 

[yafengabc]

Yes (and no) - But the 2x Frequency PEQ problem is fixed.

But I thought I was going a little crazy as "occasionally" I was not measuring the right values. I set a filter at 100Hz and sometimes the JA11 use that value then then other times it was 92Hz (just connecting and disconnecting the cable would affect it - not changing the value of the Filter saved to the cable - they never changed in this test).

I thought maybe there is something weird with my setup, so I even went back and measured my Tanchim One DSP cable (and my FreeDSP Cable) with a similar 100Hz filter.

So here are 3 of the measurements:
View attachment 383699

The yellow is the Tanchim One DSP with a 100Hz filter.
The Red and the Blue are 2 measurements from the JA11 so the blue one is correctly set to 100 (but the dB value is wrong) and the Red one is roughly 92Hz.

But the pattern I spotted (at least with my cable) for this is linked to the distortion levels - when doing the blue measurement the JA11 had terrible (audible) distortion. e.g.

View attachment 383701
Yet when doing the Red measurement (i.e. the wrong Frequency value) it had very little distortion:
View attachment 383702

So, I would be great if someone else could try - maybe it is just something odd with my cable.

I don't know why, but the frequency of EQ here has always been wrong, no matter what version it is

 

[yafengabc]

I think I have found the reason. If I set EQ using the app, the result is correct. If I adjust EQ using the web interface, the frequency will double. Even if I use the web page to view without modifying anything, the result will also double.

 

[TonyJZX]

whats to stop you from buying say... FOUR of these for 7.1 channels

the s/w looks like it allows multiple examples to exist in a pc

you just need some software to decode atmos

i agree this seems to have enough power for the avg headset

the SQ is amazing for $90

but hold on - it only cost me $9!

to my subjective ear its closer to the CS43131 than AKM's Velvet Sound™ (i'm kidding here)

its a very clean clear sound

i have noticed some oddities i cant work out

some headphones wont work on it in win10 -the o/s detects the JA11 device but it does not recognise that there's a headphone or audio 'endpoint' to send audio to

BUT it works fine in android!

i think its because i think the ANC headphones i use may have some wacky OFF physically state to work as a 3.5 input

i'm on v1.8 and fiio's support is great and so is their win10 app driver

fiio should send this in for testing - i cannot imagine a bigger bargain in out chosen sport


i spend more on a big mac value meal

 

[yafengabc]

Yes (and no) - But the 2x Frequency PEQ problem is fixed.

But I thought I was going a little crazy as "occasionally" I was not measuring the right values. I set a filter at 100Hz and sometimes the JA11 use that value then then other times it was 92Hz (just connecting and disconnecting the cable would affect it - not changing the value of the Filter saved to the cable - they never changed in this test).

I thought maybe there is something weird with my setup, so I even went back and measured my Tanchim One DSP cable (and my FreeDSP Cable) with a similar 100Hz filter.

So here are 3 of the measurements:
View attachment 383699

The yellow is the Tanchim One DSP with a 100Hz filter.
The Red and the Blue are 2 measurements from the JA11 so the blue one is correctly set to 100 (but the dB value is wrong) and the Red one is roughly 92Hz.

But the pattern I spotted (at least with my cable) for this is linked to the distortion levels - when doing the blue measurement the JA11 had terrible (audible) distortion. e.g.

View attachment 383701
Yet when doing the Red measurement (i.e. the wrong Frequency value) it had very little distortion:
View attachment 383702

So, I would be great if someone else could try - maybe it is just something odd with my cable.

I think I have reproduced your problem. When I first inserted the load into JA11 and then plugged it into the computer, JA11 was normal. If I unplug the load at this time and then insert it into JA11, the testing will become very poor.

My other fake JA11 (Franson T2pro) does not have this issue. I feel that the possible difference is that if JA11 unplugges the load (eg IEM), the PC will not be able to recognize JA11 until the load is reinserted, while the other fake JA11 (T2 pro) will continue to work (even if the load is unplugged), which may be a problem caused by JA11 mode switching.

 

[yafengabc]

I also found an issue, which is that my VIVO phone can automatically switch the sampling rate. If my player plays audio at 44.1kHz, the signal received by JA11 will also be 44.1kHz, but there will be audible noise (similar to a slight popping sound when modifying EQ). Sampling rates of 48KHZ and above do not have this issue. If the player is set to exclusively use USB devices, there will be no problem playing 44.1KHz audio.
My other phone, when USB device exclusive is not set, will SRC from 44.1KHz to 48KHz, so there is no output state of 44.1KHz when non USB device exclusive is used, so there is no such problem.
Additionally, KA11 JM30 (43131) and several CX31993 USB Dango devices did not detect this issue.

 

[Jeromeof]

I also found an issue, which is that my VIVO phone can automatically switch the sampling rate. If my player plays audio at 44.1kHz, the signal received by JA11 will also be 44.1kHz, but there will be audible noise (similar to a slight popping sound when modifying EQ). Sampling rates of 48KHZ and above do not have this issue. If the player is set to exclusively use USB devices, there will be no problem playing 44.1KHz audio.
My other phone, when USB device exclusive is not set, will SRC from 44.1KHz to 48KHz, so there is no output state of 44.1KHz when non USB device exclusive is used, so there is no such problem.
Additionally, KA11 JM30 (43131) and several CX31993 USB Dango devices did not detect this issue.

Yes I think the bug I am seeing with the incorrect PEQ Frequency values and the distortion - is also related to a mismatch in the sampling rates. so I was seeing a 100Hz filter being applied at roughly 92Hz - doing a little bit of maths = 44.1/48 => 91.8 so this is definitely related.

 

[marcheloka]

whats to stop you from buying say... FOUR of these for 7.1 channels

the s/w looks like it allows multiple examples to exist in a pc

you just need some software to decode atmos

i agree this seems to have enough power for the avg headset

the SQ is amazing for $90

but hold on - it only cost me $9!

to my subjective ear its closer to the CS43131 than AKM's Velvet Sound™ (i'm kidding here)

its a very clean clear sound

i have noticed some oddities i cant work out

some headphones wont work on it in win10 -the o/s detects the JA11 device but it does not recognise that there's a headphone or audio 'endpoint' to send audio to

BUT it works fine in android!

i think its because i think the ANC headphones i use may have some wacky OFF physically state to work as a 3.5 input

i'm on v1.8 and fiio's support is great and so is their win10 app driver

fiio should send this in for testing - i cannot imagine a bigger bargain in out chosen sport


i spend more on a big mac value meal

Wait can you please elaborate on this idea? Seems very good to me in the first glance. I am looking for a way to setup 4.0 sound from my PC to watch movies, preferably using active speakers, but the money i need to put into audio interface and xlr cables is killing me while i am comparing that money put into something not really helpful instead of putting it into better speakers (im in 100$ for used speaker bracket so every $ counts)

if you suggest i could somehow send digital signal to front pair of speakers and didigal signal to rear pair of spekaers and then use ja11 or something as dac there by the speakers then that would be amazing. would that be possible? Do i need some sound cards for my laptop to output front stereo digital signal and rear stereo digital signal separately?

 

[Palladium]

Wait can you please elaborate on this idea? Seems very good to me in the first glance. I am looking for a way to setup 4.0 sound from my PC to watch movies, preferably using active speakers, but the money i need to put into audio interface and xlr cables is killing me while i am comparing that money put into something not really helpful instead of putting it into better speakers (im in 100$ for used speaker bracket so every $ counts)

if you suggest i could somehow send digital signal to front pair of speakers and didigal signal to rear pair of spekaers and then use ja11 or something as dac there by the speakers then that would be amazing. would that be possible? Do i need some sound cards for my laptop to output front stereo digital signal and rear stereo digital signal separately?

IINW if you are using windows that's not gonna work. They would be exposed as 4 separate sound cards and Windows only allows you to output on only one at any given time.

 

[MCH]

Wait can you please elaborate on this idea? Seems very good to me in the first glance. I am looking for a way to setup 4.0 sound from my PC to watch movies, preferably using active speakers, but the money i need to put into audio interface and xlr cables is killing me while i am comparing that money put into something not really helpful instead of putting it into better speakers (im in 100$ for used speaker bracket so every $ counts)

if you suggest i could somehow send digital signal to front pair of speakers and didigal signal to rear pair of spekaers and then use ja11 or something as dac there by the speakers then that would be amazing. would that be possible? Do i need some sound cards for my laptop to output front stereo digital signal and rear stereo digital signal separately?

Member @Mister_magister did something like this with apple dongles and a Linux htpc:

Thread '5.1 Home theatre on apple dongles for that sweet sweet audiophile gore' https://audiosciencereview.com/foru...s-for-that-sweet-sweet-audiophile-gore.43979/

 

[marcheloka]

IINW if you are using windows that's not gonna work. They would be exposed as 4 separate sound cards and Windows only allows you to output on only one at any given time.

yeah maybe that would be possible to work aroung. a week ago i was looking for a solution to output movie audio to 2 pairs of headphones at the same time. and it worked using one pair of bluetooth headphones and one pair of wired headphones. i just downloaded voiceemeter (https://vb-audio.com/Voicemeeter/banana.htm) and it works - i listen to movie on my wired iems and my wife listens on tws bluetooth earbuds. Maybe i could use something similiar to send 4.0 movie sound to 2 separate stereodongles like ja11?

 

[marcheloka]

Hello guys i just tried to upgrade my firmware on JA11 to 1.9 using android app. The update stopped after a second and did not continue for another 15 minutes. After unplugging and plugging the dongle again it is not seen by a device. What do i do? Do i need to use windows tool to bring it back to 1.8 or just make it 1.9 using windows?

 

[gufkl]

Hello guys i just tried to upgrade my firmware on JA11 to 1.9 using android app. The update stopped after a second and did not continue for another 15 minutes. After unplugging and plugging the dongle again it is not seen by a device. What do i do? Do i need to use windows tool to bring it back to 1.8 or just make it 1.9 using windows?

If i remember correctly you can just upgrade to v1.9, no need to downgrade first.