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Fail with Maop 11.2 matched pair

All right, spend the weekend with adding the subwoofer and learned a lot. And failed a lot... also recognised that I am not good in buying gear in regards of getting the functionality I was thinking of ...

First, measuring position with the mark audios is the key. +/-5cm closer and the highs (+10khz) are there or not!

Second, the audient id14 mk2 has only stereo mirrored to six outputs. Even the headphone output can not be used with another signal.
So no chance for a high pass filter for the stereo amp via macbook + audient.
Maybe I will change the audient for another interface. Maybe, because even with not having the supposed functionality the quality of the inputs is really amazing for me.

Third, getting the svs pro version gave handy features and protected me from crawling under the table 100 times.. not knowing that the pro version has no high pass filter as the classic had, when using cinch line through, just gave me another moment of "why me".

So the maop first played in 2.1 with the svs sb 1000 pro via the audient using the 1+2 for the stereo amp and the mirrored 3+4 outputs form the audient for the sub.
As I switched to connect the stereo amp also to the sub the sound became better. Measured phase, etc. but simply plugging the amp to the sub improved the sound in regards of clarity. If not plugged to the sub, polarity changed a lot too.

My delay measurement s where not useful with rew... Was not able to get reasonable numbers for the sub.

Using the cinch input / output of the svs, and some eqs is giving a good result. Still the bass is not as sharp as it was with the yamaha hs8 or the hard core eq pushed maops.

In search for more clarity in the bass sound, I am looking for solutions. It is not as tight and sharp sounding as I hoped for.

I tried, plugging the bass ports. This helped to get some effect similar to a high pass, as the speakers do not perform well on the listening position without a lot of +EQ in the lower than 100hz area. And the whole bass peak between 40 - 60 hz from the speakers got removed that way.

So I wonder if, a true high pass via another interface would give a big improvement?
On the other hand, I would lose the improving of delay, etc. that appears by using the cinch out of the svs to the stereo amp.

Next weekend I will try, if I cut off the signals below 20hz (right now it goes down to 16hz adjusted to house curve with eq) and above 20.000hz, if this could improve the clarity of stage and sound.

Also setting the sub (right now on laminate floor) on a heavy stone plate could lower the vibrations in the floor and improve the sound of the sub, or?

To be honest I would struggle to provide the 'best' answer since there are so many variables here...

One thing is for sure: getting all your speakers on a separate channel (any of these shall work for that purpose) and measuring/setting correct delay values (along with proper lowpass and high-pass filters) will provide the best possible experience one can have with a subwoofer.
A correct high-pass would also take the burden off of your main speakers and that will definitely be audible (it even made a huge difference with my 15" Fane full range drivers...)
 
To be honest I would struggle to provide the 'best' answer since there are so many variables here...

One thing is for sure: getting all your speakers on a separate channel (any of these shall work for that purpose) and measuring/setting correct delay values (along with proper lowpass and high-pass filters) will provide the best possible experience one can have with a subwoofer.
A correct high-pass would also take the burden off of your main speakers and that will definitely be audible (it even made a huge difference with my 15" Fane full range drivers...)
Nope... it does not work, as Motu M4 3&4 outputs volume can't be controlled simultaneously with 1&2.

Has anyone actually running a four channel output system on mac with eq filters for each channel?
 
Nope... it does not work, as Motu M4 3&4 outputs volume can't be controlled simultaneously with 1&2.
Where did you get this info from?
The Master volume can control all channels. I have had several multichannel pro audio interfaces and all of them worked like this - I am sure the M4 works the same way
 
Where did you get this info from?
The Master volume can control all channels. I have had several multichannel pro audio interfaces and all of them worked like this - I am sure the M4 works the same way

It is standing on my desk, so real life experience.
 
That is very strange - I am currently running a 4-channel system in my home office with an RME Digiface and an 8-channel system using a UDIO-8
Previously I have had a Focusrite Clarett 4pre and then a Universal Audio Apollo Twin X
All of these worked fine (under Windows 11)

I will let others comment from a Mac perspective but I would be surprised...
 
That is very strange - I am currently running a 4-channel system in my home office with an RME Digiface and an 8-channel system using a UDIO-8
Previously I have had a Focusrite Clarett 4pre and then a Universal Audio Apollo Twin X
All of these worked fine (under Windows 11)

I will let others comment from a Mac perspective but I would be surprised...
With macOS there are already a view posts in this forum with the same issue. I should read more than the review before getting new equipment...
 
I've always done 200hrs of acoustic music at gradually increasing volumes (I know I know). The MarkAudio website lists the following info

Running in: Carefully run the drivers at low volume using light music (NO artificial signal generation of any-kind) for the first 100 hours. After this period, gradually increase to normal listening volumes with the introduction of music that contains some bass. The driver will reach optimal performance at around 800 hours of play time.


I am a sample size of one, but I've done 5 Mark Audio builds and the only one I had problems with was the one that I didn't follow the break in instructions. It actually bent the cone as in the cone deformed (rippled) .
Please tell me how not following break-in procedures caused the cone to bend? What is the break-in procedure you are referring to? I will be honest, the cone was not bent by lack of break-in.

The Markaudio statements about the importance of break-in follow a troubling pattern of spouting falsehoods that are spread around this industry.

Speaker break-in does happen, but it is typically on the order of 1%, and in fact larger changes happen due to voice coil temperature changes during normal operation. Even room temperature changes cause larger parametric changes in a driver than this non-issue of break-in. And the actual tiny changes called break-in occur in the first few moments of operation. The actual audible changes are below hearing threshold in most cases. And drivers do not need break-in to operate safely. I am not talking about opinions, I am talking about measured changes.

Saying that a driver needs to be broken in to avoid damage is one of the more extreme opinions I have heard regarding speaker break-in. It does get stated from time to time, but is not factual and is an incredible distraction. For instance, there are legions of people on various forums who will not listen to their speakers until they have been stressed for many hours, often following the recommendation to run two speakers out of phase while facing each other (to minimize the radiated sound). This is a recipe for wearing out your drivers. In fact, drivers just need to be played, they will typically see Fs reduce by a small amount, and Qms change as well resulting in nearly zero change in actual output or frequency response. Again, these changes are smaller than the changes caused by room temperature variations, or relative humidity changes.
 
If is the surface or the length of the carpet the problem?

No good. Green carpet colours the sound. You need a neutral colour. Or if you want a lively sound, go with a Persian.
 
FYI @MusicIsADream the measurements for my MAOPs:
 
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