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Extreme Snake Oil

fpitas

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Adi777

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these are just different games with different toys.
Yes, of course, but:
I see it like this:
Company X producing cable stands,
Company Y, also producing such stands.
Company X claims that their products audibly change/improve the sound.
Company Y writes on its website that their products are made of good quality materials, but they do not mention anything about improving the sound.
Which company is honest?
I don't see problem with audio games, BUT I see the problem in the lack of honesty. That's it.
I'll add one more thing. If the buyer knows that the magic item doesn't actually improve the sound, I personally don't see anything wrong with that. It's not very smart, but it's not too bad either. On the other hand, the existence of such companies will deceive those more susceptible to audiophile gibberish.
 

Sgt. Ear Ache

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Wow, that is heavy. If I buy this fuse then there is no money left to buy the stereo gear.

pffffft! If you don't even have $10k to spend on audio gear why even bother?? :rolleyes: lol


...otoh, you could probably spend a few hundred on gear and then just plug that awesome fuse in and let it do all the audio heavy lifting for you. :cool:
 

r042wal

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Audiophilia was supposed to be a hobby for me like astrophotography, competition target pistol, HAM radio and an assortment of other categories not limited to electronics, carpentry and 3D printing. I find comradery in everything but audio.

Recently I have had to back off of many audio forums because of the 'contempt' that was brewing with members over their $300 fuses, thousand dollar interconnects, and just overall, the general bullchit and useless hype. I find it insulting from the mfg. For the end-user I just did not feel like I was a part of this community and I couldn't even 'fake it until I made it'.

I eventually concluded I was not an audiophile; I'm just a music lover.

I am about to make some new speaker cables and run some of my own tests and publish them here. I am just waiting on the vinyl pants that go on the end of the cables.

I will be looking for a critique on my method and findings which I will post in a separate thread. In a nutshell it will be 12/3 stranded cable, no shield. I will inject a 1 KHz signal down the end and attach the other end of my cable to an oscilloscope. Then I will take a laboratory grade near field probe (Com-Power PS-400), connect it to my portable spectrum analyzer and sweep the cable for any transient leakage. This should tell me if the cable is acting like an antenna and able to pick up any transient EMF or RF in or around my hearing range of my ears.

The best to all and back later.
 

HoweSound

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Taken from their advert:

"Please note: fuses are directional, so please ensure you install your fuse accordingly. If you are not sure on the correct direction, simply try it both ways- you will be able to hear the difference."

So it must work!!
 

MoreWatts

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Why fuses, when you can use a 'Swiss Digital Fuse Box', with a 'Sluggo'. This has a busy thread at Audiogon. Evidently, the 'sluggo' can be ordered in different metals, each with its own sound characteristic.

Swiss Digital Fuse Box (link to product page at 'Verifiaudiollc')​

Swiss Digital Fuse Box

To understand the Swiss Digital FUSE BOX, you need to first understand what the lowly fuses in your audio system does, and does not, do for you.

A fuse is a very simple and elegant safety device. AC Mains current flows through it on its way from your home's wall outlet to the power supply of your audio product. By design, the current flowing through it causes the fuse filament to get warm because it is, in fact, a small value resistor. It uses Ohms Law and the concept of resistance heating (just like your toaster) to protect you. As the current through it increases, the heating of the element increases, until the conducted current exceeds its current rating, when, ultimately, it burns through and opens the circuit. If you examine a typical fuse you will see that lower rated fuses have smaller internal elements than ones of a higher current rating. One can infer from that observation that smaller value fuses have higher resistance than larger, and that is, in fact, the case, as easily shown by a precision Ohm meter. But that's not the whole story, because you are measuring the fuse under "cold" conditions - with no current flowing through it. As current flows and the element heats, its resistance increases, up to the point of failure.

Now, let's examine how your audio product reacts to a fuse's natural characteristics. When you initially power on your product the current draws are high as the capacitors charge up and the active elements begin to conduct. This period is called the "inrush" and the fuse is sized to allow this amount of current to pass; the element will heat up very briefly, but soon return to a steady state or normal operations phase which is typically a much lower current value. In some cases, an equipment manufacturer might specify a “slow blow” fuse, if it knows the inrush current requirement of the product could exceed the brief capacity of a normal “fast blow” type of fuse. Regardless, the principal is the same.

Where the fuse becomes important of course, is from a safety perspective. If there is some fault in the product that causes the current draw to exceed the fuse rating. Under that condition the fuse will continue to heat so long as the excess current draw is maintained, forcing it ultimately to blow, as we described above.

While good as a safety device, the characteristics of a fuse are not optimum for audio performance. First of all, the existing fuse in your piece of equipment is replace by a solid copper rod (named “SLUGGO”) which has negligible resistance and can pass currents you are unlikely to see in any audio product – certainly more than a hundred Amps – before heating (please be sure to read the safety implications of using SLUGGO in your own product.)

The Swiss Digital FUSE BOX is designed to eliminate all of the drawbacks of a common fuse.

First of all, the existing fuse in your piece of equipment is replace by a solid copper rod (named “SLUGGO”) which has negligible resistance and can pass currents you are unlikely to see in any audio product – certainly more than a hundred Amps – before heating (please be sure to read the safety implications of using SLUGGO in your own product.)

Second, the FUSE BOX itself is placed in the power cord between your product and the wall. It measures current flow to your product MAGNETICALLY without introducing any additional source resistance and then feeds this data to the internal microcomputer which determines if that current is “allowed” per the program it is running that emulates your specific fuse value as well as slow blow or fast blow type. If the microcomputer determines the current profile exceeds specifications it will immediately open the ultra-low resistance contacts of the internal high-power relay, disconnecting the load, and eliminate any further current draw.

“Resetting” FUSE BOX to its rated value requires that it be disconnected from the wall for a minimum of 15 seconds. You must also examine your equipment for problems before trying again. FUSE BOX blowing again indicates your product has a problem, just as it would using a traditional fuse.

FUSE BOX is the realization of what a Fuse should be and all of the safety protocols that go along with this design. Two years of work went into FUSE BOX. We know it works and we know it’s safe IF YOU FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS. Lastly, we hope you’ll try it.


North America

1 x FUSE BOX 110 volt BUY NOW
2 x FUSE BOX 110 volt BUY NOW
3 x FUSE BOX 110 volt BUY NOW

FUSE BOX WITH PIGGY TAIL 1 Footer

1 x FUSE BOX with 1 x Piggy Tail BUY NOW
2 x FUSE BOX with 2 x Piggy Tail BUY NOW
3 x FUSE BOX with 3 x Piggy Tail BUY NOW
$395.00
 

MoreWatts

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I'm a little bummed that a 'thread merge' diluted discussion about the 'phono cartridge heater' upthread. Audiophiles have come up with several novel approaches to start house fires. What does the cartridge heater do to a wood body cartidge? :facepalm:
 
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Steven Holt

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Look, they work, otherwise there wouldn't have been an audible improvement. Science doesn't know everything.
You have to be careful! As one of our technical experts, they will probably quote this in their next ad campaign!!
 

Punter

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While good as a safety device, the characteristics of a fuse are not optimum for audio performance. First of all, the existing fuse in your piece of equipment is replace by a solid copper rod (named “SLUGGO”) which has negligible resistance and can pass currents you are unlikely to see in any audio product – certainly more than a hundred Amps – before heating (please be sure to read the safety implications of using SLUGGO in your own product.)
So you replace the fuse with a copper rod that will pass 100A...... so far, top idea. Then you entrust the job of the fuse to an inline mystery box........ So when the fire inspector finds the source of the blaze that levelled your house by finding the 100A+ "fuse" in your amp.... Your response will be "the little silver box with the badly fitted label was being the fuse!" Yeah, that'll fly :)
 

MoreWatts

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We know it works and we know it’s safe IF YOU FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS. Lastly, we hope you’ll try it.
It's UL/CE certified, right? The label must be on the underside of the device. And why do I read that as "this will be the last thing you try...?"

[This post certified me as an ASR 'Senior Member', with 300 posts! Although I've felt like one for awhile now.] :cool:
 
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egellings

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I pulled this from copper.org:

"A noble metal, copper gives your system unequaled reliability and longevity. The pure copper used in building wire is described by corrosion specialists as noble metal. This means it is not subject to galvanic corrosion when connected to other, less noble metals and alloys. Copper wiring will also resist corrosion from moisture, humidity, industrial pollution and other atmospheric influences – to insure safe, trouble-free performance for the life of your system."
I though noble metals were those that did not oxidize much, if at all, like gold or platinum.
 

restorer-john

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r042wal

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My hobby makes me so sad but I love the music :rolleyes:
 

Tranquility Bass

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Tranquility Bass

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Why fuses, when you can use a 'Swiss Digital Fuse Box', with a 'Sluggo'. This has a busy thread at Audiogon. Evidently, the 'sluggo' can be ordered in different metals, each with its own sound characteristic.

Swiss Digital Fuse Box (link to product page at 'Verifiaudiollc')​

Swiss Digital Fuse Box

To understand the Swiss Digital FUSE BOX, you need to first understand what the lowly fuses in your audio system does, and does not, do for you.

A fuse is a very simple and elegant safety device. AC Mains current flows through it on its way from your home's wall outlet to the power supply of your audio product. By design, the current flowing through it causes the fuse filament to get warm because it is, in fact, a small value resistor. It uses Ohms Law and the concept of resistance heating (just like your toaster) to protect you. As the current through it increases, the heating of the element increases, until the conducted current exceeds its current rating, when, ultimately, it burns through and opens the circuit. If you examine a typical fuse you will see that lower rated fuses have smaller internal elements than ones of a higher current rating. One can infer from that observation that smaller value fuses have higher resistance than larger, and that is, in fact, the case, as easily shown by a precision Ohm meter. But that's not the whole story, because you are measuring the fuse under "cold" conditions - with no current flowing through it. As current flows and the element heats, its resistance increases, up to the point of failure.

Now, let's examine how your audio product reacts to a fuse's natural characteristics. When you initially power on your product the current draws are high as the capacitors charge up and the active elements begin to conduct. This period is called the "inrush" and the fuse is sized to allow this amount of current to pass; the element will heat up very briefly, but soon return to a steady state or normal operations phase which is typically a much lower current value. In some cases, an equipment manufacturer might specify a “slow blow” fuse, if it knows the inrush current requirement of the product could exceed the brief capacity of a normal “fast blow” type of fuse. Regardless, the principal is the same.

Where the fuse becomes important of course, is from a safety perspective. If there is some fault in the product that causes the current draw to exceed the fuse rating. Under that condition the fuse will continue to heat so long as the excess current draw is maintained, forcing it ultimately to blow, as we described above.

While good as a safety device, the characteristics of a fuse are not optimum for audio performance. First of all, the existing fuse in your piece of equipment is replace by a solid copper rod (named “SLUGGO”) which has negligible resistance and can pass currents you are unlikely to see in any audio product – certainly more than a hundred Amps – before heating (please be sure to read the safety implications of using SLUGGO in your own product.)

The Swiss Digital FUSE BOX is designed to eliminate all of the drawbacks of a common fuse.

First of all, the existing fuse in your piece of equipment is replace by a solid copper rod (named “SLUGGO”) which has negligible resistance and can pass currents you are unlikely to see in any audio product – certainly more than a hundred Amps – before heating (please be sure to read the safety implications of using SLUGGO in your own product.)

Second, the FUSE BOX itself is placed in the power cord between your product and the wall. It measures current flow to your product MAGNETICALLY without introducing any additional source resistance and then feeds this data to the internal microcomputer which determines if that current is “allowed” per the program it is running that emulates your specific fuse value as well as slow blow or fast blow type. If the microcomputer determines the current profile exceeds specifications it will immediately open the ultra-low resistance contacts of the internal high-power relay, disconnecting the load, and eliminate any further current draw.

“Resetting” FUSE BOX to its rated value requires that it be disconnected from the wall for a minimum of 15 seconds. You must also examine your equipment for problems before trying again. FUSE BOX blowing again indicates your product has a problem, just as it would using a traditional fuse.

FUSE BOX is the realization of what a Fuse should be and all of the safety protocols that go along with this design. Two years of work went into FUSE BOX. We know it works and we know it’s safe IF YOU FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS. Lastly, we hope you’ll try it.


North America

1 x FUSE BOX 110 volt BUY NOW
2 x FUSE BOX 110 volt BUY NOW
3 x FUSE BOX 110 volt BUY NOW

FUSE BOX WITH PIGGY TAIL 1 Footer

1 x FUSE BOX with 1 x Piggy Tail BUY NOW
2 x FUSE BOX with 2 x Piggy Tail BUY NOW
3 x FUSE BOX with 3 x Piggy Tail BUY NOW
$395.00
Surely this doesn't pass safety standards ?? Also it is based on a false premise because most transformer primary windings exhibit much higher resistance than the fuse.
 
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