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Experiencing a power cycle audible pop sound on Genelec speakers

When I lower from 48hz to 44hz on Scarlett/windows, the mouse noise is gone, but the whole volume and experience from my speakers goes down considerably lol

So is possible that my motherboard is not powerful enough or having ground loop issues at 48hz may be too much for it?

Unfortunately, 44hz does not get rid of the pop when starting windows.
 
I still think is my PC and some ground loop issue coming from motherboard/psu as whether I use speakers or headphones, I get weird noises when I use the mouse wheel, hover over links, highlight words, open windows start menu, etc, you need to increase the volume to hear it well
Do you have a USB port on your front header that you could try? One that is wired from the PC motherboard but not an actual slot in the rear of the motherboard?
 
Do you have a USB port on your front header that you could try? One that is wired from the PC motherboard but not an actual slot in the rear of the motherboard?

I tried that before I even made all these threads. I tried lots of things. I just purchased a Motu from amazon to test on. If I have the same issues with it, then I have my answer that the issue is from my PC, so i'll buy new PC regardless of the pop, is about time i usually buy computers every 5 years
 
I tried that before I even made all these threads. I tried lots of things. I just purchased a Motu from amazon to test on. If I have the same issues with it, then I have my answer that the issue is from my PC, so i'll buy new PC regardless of the pop, is about time i usually buy computers every 5 years
I had the "hear my mouse moving" problem when I connected my desktop speakers from the 3.5mm rear port of my motherboard. It went away when I plugged it into the headphone port near the "on" switch at the front of the case. The motherboard had VRM problems.


Excerpt:
Interference from your GPU's VRMs and fans can cause humming/buzzing/clicking audio artifacts, especially under load or when the fans spin up. It's not an uncommon issue.
 
I'll try this.

I managed to make one speaker go to sleep town by simply disconnecting its cable from the interface lol

This tells me as long as the interface is switched on, due to keeping internal clock synced, it will never let the speaker go to sleep. So even if I manage to get rid of the pop when turning on PC somehow, my speaker will never go to sleep unless I manually switch off the interface lol

back to square zero

Another problem as mentioned before is if you turn on the Genelec with a power strip rather than the buttons on the back, it makes a pop and when you turn off a thump. Supposedly, as it bypasses the speaker soft start/shutdown.

So I don't know what to do now.

The only solution seem to leave everything on 24/7
Or shut everything off in the proper sequence, which has been explained in one of your earlier threads.
 
Or shut everything off in the proper sequence, which has been explained in one of your earlier threads.
Thus the Thread Renaming! Hint hint, wink wink…Try the Veal, we’ll be here all week ;)
 
All this tells me my issue is either my computer or my electricity lol

I think is the computer ground loop issue with the motherboard

Do you get a pop if the speakers are on and you turn off or on the interface via switch in the back?
There is always something when you have an interface tied to a PC or a PC itself as the source. There is just so much going on in there. If its just a relatively low-level thump or pop, I wouldn't worry about it. It only does it once when you turn it on, and when you turn it off. The real problem is if its a) loud enough to be a concern for your hearing or disturbing others at odd hours, or b) its so bad that it risks damaging something. A great example is my old SBZ soundcard that would thump so bad on powerup that if the speaker amp was left on it would not only put it into protection, but also cause the PC to start endlessly boot-looping if the amp was left on. I got an AE7 and thankfully its properly designed, but there is still a small tick at start-up and then a small thud when it powers down. Getting rid of it completely will be hard. Really its only if its actually loud enough to pose issues do you need to worry. From your video, to me that is pretty much as good as it will ever get with a PC, and radically better than I thought it would be. In my case I genuinely worried about it blowing the speakers or the sub at power-up, or even nuking the motherboard.
 
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I have another isse now that I just noticed. I increased the volume on the interface, whenever I use the wheel on the mouse, I hear a buzz noise, every time, like a mosquitoes coming from the speakers, it even happens when I hover the mouse over links, sometimes it happens even when i move the mouse tho not often

happens when use the mouse wheel to scroll up and down websites

I actually muted all windows sounds, it still happens
I would say the most likely suspect here is your PC monitor. When you scroll, you are basically modulating the data on the HDMI cable at an audible rate with each detent-click of the mouse wheel (or anything that alters the monitor image at a rate that's within the audible range), and this is heard in the speakers if the monitor generates a lot of noise internally from refreshing and such. To rule it out, try shutting off the monitor while scrolling, and see if it stops. Obviously replacing the PC wont help much. Better HDMI cables can bring it down, as well as more separation. In my case a better cable and some mods to my Schiit headphone amp that was picking it up and allowing it to be heard in the speakers solved it, and brought complete silence. But lets isolate the source first before firing up the parts cannon.
 
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It's the same on some laptops, it's the usb 5v being modulated by other usb activity.
 
It's the same on some laptops, it's the usb 5v being modulated by other usb activity.
It can be that as well, or maybe even the RF signal from the mouse. Easy enough to isolate by turning off each one of the suspected devices in turn while repeating the input that causes the interference. Id probably start with the monitor, then try a different mouse, and if it remains then its probably coming from within the PC itself and making its way out to the interface and speakers. At least it does it consistently since intermittent EMI problems are much harder to deal with since you don't know right away if you have fixed it, yet.
 
I would say the most likely suspect here is your PC monitor. When you scroll, you are basically modulating the data on the HDMI cable at an audible rate with each detent-click of the mouse wheel (or anything that alters the monitor image at a rate that's within the audible range), and this is heard in the speakers if the monitor generates a lot of noise internally from refreshing and such. To rule it out, try shutting off the monitor while scrolling, and see if it stops. Obviously replacing the PC wont help much. Better HDMI cables can bring it down, as well as more separation. In my case a better cable and some mods to my Schiit headphone amp that was picking it up and allowing it to be heard in the speakers solved it, and brought complete silence. But lets isolate the source first before firing up the parts cannon.

Its not making the noise anymore, I don't know why. I did have an app called F.lux. I uninstalled it yesterday maybe that was causing it
 
Of course, I can do the sequence, is just annoying having to reach out to the back of BOTH speakers every time. If the Motu interface, doesn't solve my issue, I'll have no choice but just do the sequence cause I'm running out of options
 
Its not making the noise anymore, I don't know why. I did have an app called F.lux. I uninstalled it yesterday maybe that was causing it

It would be nice to know if this program either caused or exposed the problem you had. Perhaps reinstall the same version of the program and see if you can reproduce your problem?

If you can't reproduce the problem after a reinstall that just means that you could not reproduce it, not that the program was not the cause or exposed an underlying problem. Welcome to the world of debugging and testing software.
 
Of course, I can do the sequence, is just annoying having to reach out to the back of BOTH speakers every time. If the Motu interface, doesn't solve my issue, I'll have no choice but just do the sequence cause I'm running out of options

I've the MOTU M2 (first version) and that one did not make my Genelec 8330A pop when disconnecting the USB cable or turning power on/off on the M2 (it as a power switch) when I used it. I believe I wrote that in an earlier reply to you in one of your threads.
 
I had Marshall fridge, yes fridge, (https://marshallfridge.com/), and whenever the compressor turned on, the Genelecs pop. I sadly returned the fridge.
Just move the load to the other rail at the main. That would have been easier. Your refer is still turning on and off. Can you hear it? I bet you can.
The pop was just a message from the music gods. LOL

Regards.
 
Just move the load to the other rail at the main. That would have been easier. Your refer is still turning on and off. Can you hear it? I bet you can.
The pop was just a message from the music gods. LOL

Regards.
I think I tried a extension cord too from other socket. And I also got replacement before I finally returned it (also tried it in two rooms). But to be honest I am not 100% sure did the message from the music gods come through wire or by air. I am not expert on this, could it be an EMP/EMF that fridge's, I guess non-slow start, compressor was emitting, which was then picked up by Genelecs?
 
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