Wondering what the difference is between the 8 model and the 6 model which is cheaper by a bit
Try here: - https://www.eversolo.com/Product/allProduct.html
You should get everything you need to know there
Wondering what the difference is between the 8 model and the 6 model which is cheaper by a bit
Well. 2 whole EverSolos..Wondering what the difference is between the 8 model and the 6 model which is cheaper by a bit
Any one here owns the z6 and confirm this? >>> it says on their web site it's got VU meter as well and it appears the major difference from the z8 is the dac chip.Try here: - https://www.eversolo.com/Product/allProduct.html
You should get everything you need to know there
NiceWell. 2 whole EverSolos..
Can’t thank you enough for the horizontal analysis of the 2 products…I was wondering , not knowing much about streamers( I mostly stream tidal on desktops, so no library of music to worry about) but this company has a streamer with a similar dac in it . Was wondering was the extra cost of a few hundred dollars would add any worthwhile features for my tv which is also part of my stereo, that would be fun…or am I just complicating my life.I saw it a few days ago on the Audiophonics website, and was wondering what kind of DAC this brand could build... (I remember that, years ago, this brand was certainly the only one selling a TV Box with HDMI input, if I'm not wrong).
I thought this DAC looked good on paper, but an almost perfect one with this screen was not what I was expecting. Good job!
A bit pricey compared to the SMSL M500 MKIII which is almost the same but costs less and has a better headphone amp.
But this one has the best screen/menu if you really want such a thing.
They also have the DAC Z6 for 469€ instead of 699€ which is the same but with:
- dual ES9068A (2 x 2ch DAC chip, instead of 1 x 8ch DAC chip for the Z8)
- 6 x RT6863S Opamps (instead of 10 x OPA1612A)
- Low Noise PS (instead of Ultra-Low Noise PS)
- 3 PCM filters (instead of 7 PCM and 4 DSD filters)
- DR 8dB lower
Same thing happened to me. My Toslink cable though still mates security with it so no issues. But maybe others are different. FYI you may be able to reattach the door. I think it just has two tabs which you need to force back onto the hole.I have a question about this magnificent DAC. I loved it but I had a problem: it took me a long time plugging the Toslink cable into the optical input. So much so that a small piece broke, which acts as a "door" and prevents dust from entering.
After this, the cable was loose and the optical signal is cut every few minutes.
I have observed in the photo that @Amir took from the back of the device in his review that in the optical input is in the air (hole). In other words, that small piece has also broken when plugging in the cable.
@Amir, any guidance? (Or any of you)
Same thing happened to me. My Toslink cable though still mates security with it so no issues. But maybe others are different. FYI you may be able to reattach the door. I think it just has two tabs which you need to force back onto the hole.
Hello colleagues!
I have a question about this magnificent DAC. I loved it but I had a problem: it took me a long time plugging the Toslink cable into the optical input. So much so that a small piece broke, which acts as a "door" and prevents dust from entering.
After this, the cable was loose and the optical signal is cut every few minutes.
I have observed in the photo that @Amir took from the back of the device in his review that in the optical input is in the air (hole). In other words, that small piece has also broken when plugging in the cable.
@Amir, any guidance? (Or any of you)
Is this what has to happen? I want to know if the signal interruption was due to this or not.
Thank you for your help
Thank you amirm, rozel for your help.Over the years I've learnt that you don't force these things. People ought to know there is an up/down + right/wrong way to insert a Toslink cable but after you've studied the cable end and the DAC's socket, you should be able to work things out and the plug will easily "click" into position. And the cover can be repositioned should it come detached. I don't use Toslink / Coaxial as you are limiting the quality of Hi-Res music - USB whatever the type ( B or C) is the way to go imho. @GUILLE - have you checked if your cable end plug entering the DAC, has been damaged or not? This could be the culprit.
I don't think the cable has a peg with the right shape, with the trapezoid shape steep enough. Perhaps optical cables with non-metallic pins are less aggressive.
BUT THE PIN CAN BE PUT IN BOTH POSITIONS......
I wish I could answer you but with reference to my Audio Technica ATH-MX 50's, which are similarly sounding to the HD650's. There's more than enough power from the amp to drive mine but I think your headphones are a bit more power hungry. I'm sure there will be someone who can answer you more ably than II have a hd650 (my main headphone) and if you had to choose between the Z8 and topping DX 70 pro . is the z8 powerful enough for driving it ?
I usually listen to soundtracks / jazz / rock / blues / electro / 8bit ...
I also would use the rca output for my Triangle AIO active speakers .
I like the fact that on the Z8 you can update via the usb input.
It all depends on how loud you need it to be. I explained this in the review:I have a hd650 (my main headphone) and if you had to choose between the Z8 and topping DX 70 pro . is the z8 powerful enough for driving it ?
Zidoo Z8 Listening Tests
I started listening using Sennheiser HD650 headphone. I was pleasantly surprised that there was enough volume for average to somewhat above average listening levels.