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EverSolo Z8 DAC & Amp Review

Rate this DAC & HP Amp

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 3 0.9%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 4 1.2%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 67 19.5%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 269 78.4%

  • Total voters
    343

Attachments

  • eversolo_dac_z6.png
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Very nice stuff. But I think it would be better and cheaper pair my SMSL SH-8S with SMSL SU-9 PRO. BTW @amirm do you intent to review it?
 
Hello colleagues!

I have a question about this magnificent DAC. I loved it but I had a problem: it took me a long time plugging the Toslink cable into the optical input. So much so that a small piece broke, which acts as a "door" and prevents dust from entering.

After this, the cable was loose and the optical signal is cut every few minutes.

I have observed in the photo that @Amir took from the back of the device in his review that in the optical input is in the air (hole). In other words, that small piece has also broken when plugging in the cable.

@Amir, any guidance? (Or any of you)

Is this what has to happen? I want to know if the signal interruption was due to this or not.

Thank you for your help
 
I saw it a few days ago on the Audiophonics website, and was wondering what kind of DAC this brand could build... (I remember that, years ago, this brand was certainly the only one selling a TV Box with HDMI input, if I'm not wrong).
I thought this DAC looked good on paper, but an almost perfect one with this screen was not what I was expecting. Good job!
eversolo-dac-z8-dac-es9038pro-xmos-xu316-bluetooth-50-32bit-768khz-dsd512-mqa.jpg

A bit pricey compared to the SMSL M500 MKIII which is almost the same but costs less and has a better headphone amp.
But this one has the best screen/menu if you really want such a thing.

They also have the DAC Z6 for 469€ instead of 699€ which is the same but with:
- dual ES9068A (2 x 2ch DAC chip, instead of 1 x 8ch DAC chip for the Z8)
- 6 x RT6863S Opamps (instead of 10 x OPA1612A)
- Low Noise PS (instead of Ultra-Low Noise PS)
- 3 PCM filters (instead of 7 PCM and 4 DSD filters)
- DR 8dB lower

75302793d23b488f8a6095b88e8d30f3.jpeg
Can’t thank you enough for the horizontal analysis of the 2 products…I was wondering , not knowing much about streamers( I mostly stream tidal on desktops, so no library of music to worry about) but this company has a streamer with a similar dac in it . Was wondering was the extra cost of a few hundred dollars would add any worthwhile features for my tv which is also part of my stereo, that would be fun…or am I just complicating my life.
 
Hi I love this DAC. I am considering replacing my Yamaha WXC-50 with either a Z6 or Z8 and a WIIM Mini. I am happy with the WXC-50 sound quality but I am frustrated by Yamaha's lack of support for more modern streaming protocols (i.e Tidal Connect or AirPlay2). I would assume this pair would also sound audibly better than the WXC-50.

I was wondering whether these DACs have a 'auto on' function, i.e. once I cast to the WIIM the DAC would turn itself on detecting signal on the digital input.
It's purely 'wife factor' in play here as she's used to cast to a single device :p
 
I have a question about this magnificent DAC. I loved it but I had a problem: it took me a long time plugging the Toslink cable into the optical input. So much so that a small piece broke, which acts as a "door" and prevents dust from entering.

After this, the cable was loose and the optical signal is cut every few minutes.

I have observed in the photo that @Amir took from the back of the device in his review that in the optical input is in the air (hole). In other words, that small piece has also broken when plugging in the cable.

@Amir, any guidance? (Or any of you)
Same thing happened to me. My Toslink cable though still mates security with it so no issues. But maybe others are different. FYI you may be able to reattach the door. I think it just has two tabs which you need to force back onto the hole.
 
Same thing happened to me. My Toslink cable though still mates security with it so no issues. But maybe others are different. FYI you may be able to reattach the door. I think it just has two tabs which you need to force back onto the hole.

Hello colleagues!

I have a question about this magnificent DAC. I loved it but I had a problem: it took me a long time plugging the Toslink cable into the optical input. So much so that a small piece broke, which acts as a "door" and prevents dust from entering.

After this, the cable was loose and the optical signal is cut every few minutes.

I have observed in the photo that @Amir took from the back of the device in his review that in the optical input is in the air (hole). In other words, that small piece has also broken when plugging in the cable.

@Amir, any guidance? (Or any of you)

Is this what has to happen? I want to know if the signal interruption was due to this or not.

Thank you for your help

Over the years I've learnt that you don't force these things. People ought to know there is an up/down + right/wrong way to insert a Toslink cable but after you've studied the cable end and the DAC's socket, you should be able to work things out and the plug will easily "click" into position. And the cover can be repositioned should it come detached. I don't use Toslink / Coaxial as you are limiting the quality of Hi-Res music - USB whatever the type ( B or C) is the way to go imho. @GUILLE - have you checked if your cable end plug entering the DAC, has been damaged or not? This could be the culprit.
 
Over the years I've learnt that you don't force these things. People ought to know there is an up/down + right/wrong way to insert a Toslink cable but after you've studied the cable end and the DAC's socket, you should be able to work things out and the plug will easily "click" into position. And the cover can be repositioned should it come detached. I don't use Toslink / Coaxial as you are limiting the quality of Hi-Res music - USB whatever the type ( B or C) is the way to go imho. @GUILLE - have you checked if your cable end plug entering the DAC, has been damaged or not? This could be the culprit.
Thank you amirm, rozel for your help.

I know that USB is the preferred way not to lose quality. I use the Chromecast as a streamer for convenience but not exclusively.

Rozel, I know that the Toslink plug has a Top/Down position to connect. I have tried the same cable on another dac of inferior quality and I have the same problem. However, in this case the signal is not interrupted BUT THE PIN CAN BE PUT IN BOTH POSITIONS......

I don't think the cable has a peg with the right shape, with the trapezoid shape steep enough. Perhaps optical cables with non-metallic pins are less aggressive.

I have returned the cable and the Z8, but I am not satisfied. I loved the sound of this dac. I will go back to another Z8 and I will proceed carefully, since Amir had similar problems but did not report signal interruptions.

I'll report youthe results.
 
I don't think the cable has a peg with the right shape, with the trapezoid shape steep enough. Perhaps optical cables with non-metallic pins are less aggressive.
BUT THE PIN CAN BE PUT IN BOTH POSITIONS......

Most cables, even cheap ones, here in the UK to be fair, are designed to fit in the socket only one way. I suggest it's your cable at fault, probably caused by you trying to push it in the wrong way and which at the same time dislodged the socket cover
 
I have a hd650 (my main headphone) and if you had to choose between the Z8 and topping DX 70 pro . is the z8 powerful enough for driving it ?
I usually listen to soundtracks / jazz / rock / blues / electro / 8bit ...

I also would use the rca output for my Triangle AIO active speakers .

I like the fact that on the Z8 you can update via the usb input.
 
I have a hd650 (my main headphone) and if you had to choose between the Z8 and topping DX 70 pro . is the z8 powerful enough for driving it ?
I usually listen to soundtracks / jazz / rock / blues / electro / 8bit ...

I also would use the rca output for my Triangle AIO active speakers .

I like the fact that on the Z8 you can update via the usb input.
I wish I could answer you but with reference to my Audio Technica ATH-MX 50's, which are similarly sounding to the HD650's. There's more than enough power from the amp to drive mine but I think your headphones are a bit more power hungry. I'm sure there will be someone who can answer you more ably than I
 
I have a hd650 (my main headphone) and if you had to choose between the Z8 and topping DX 70 pro . is the z8 powerful enough for driving it ?
It all depends on how loud you need it to be. I explained this in the review:
Zidoo Z8 Listening Tests
I started listening using Sennheiser HD650 headphone. I was pleasantly surprised that there was enough volume for average to somewhat above average listening levels.
 
yes, that is the tricky part :)
above average, without loosing power .
For example when watching a movie and some explosions have like a very low frequency (like a shockwave) or an car / spaceship engine.

but like you said / wrote : "...I am thinking burst level of power is more than the average I measure above"
so it means it could handle this type of stuff :)

I feel like it is a though choice between the z8 and dx7 pro :D
 
ok I increased my budget a little and might splunge for the RME ADI-2 DAC v2
 
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