Emotiva XPA-DR2 Review (Stereo Power Amplifier)

[beefkabob]

My understanding is that soundstage is mainly about speaker directivity and room interactions.

 

[MakeMineVinyl]

I like tubes for voltage gain. Very linear

In my situation with very efficient horns, tube power amplifiers are working well within their linear capabilities. For more demanding speaker loads - more typical ones - tubes begin to reach their linearity limits. In those situations more obvious coloration of the signal begins to take effect. At that point, subjectivity begins to assume greater importance over objective measurements.

 

[MakeMineVinyl]

My understanding is that soundstage is mainly about speaker directivity and room interactions.

It is. The more directivity a speaker has, the more of the imaging (or lack thereof) of the recording is getting directly to your ears. With wider dispersion speakers, the room begins to create its own 'imaging' which usually increases the apparent size of the soundstage. I generally regard this as a distortion, just as surely as any other alteration which is indiscriminately impressed on the signal is a distortion. But obviously many people like the effect and there's nothing wrong with that.

Truthfully, the number of recordings which possess good, enveloping imaging is the minority. Good recordings which are rich in the phase relationships which can take the image out of the physical plane of the speakers, can do so to the extent of making the listener believe that surround speakers are in use. With speakers which are highly directional, purely binaural recordings which are intended for headphones can be very successfully reproduced.

 

[Steve D]

Imaging and Soundstage are totally dependent on timing and amplitude. Your room is definitely the largest source of distortions in these areas. Reflections and standing waves can destroy a stereo image. Speakers and their placement play a slightly secondary roll to the room. Speakers are the highest distortion components in the chain.

That being said, it all matters because all distortions and degradation are cumulative and eliminating or minimizing all the distortions possible will improve the soundstage. To anyone who thinks soundstage and imaging are not phase and amplitude dependent, what happens to the image and soundstage when you turn a balance control off center?

 

[MakeMineVinyl]

A test I do to determine how much a room is influencing imaging is to play mono pink noise, but with one of the speakers out of polarity. In systems where the room is heavily influencing the imaging, this out of polarity pink noise will sound like a large amorphous blob, but very much in line with the plane of the speakers. In systems with very little contribution from the room, the pink noise will image very strongly right in front of, or at, the listener's position, and in some cases will appear to come from slightly overhead.

It can be interesting to use this technique to help determine speaker placement and toe-in.

 

[Steve D]

A test I do to determine how much a room is influencing imaging is to play mono pink noise, but with one of the speakers out of polarity. In systems where the room is heavily influencing the imaging, this out of polarity pink noise will sound like a large amorphous blob, but very much in line with the plane of the speakers. In systems with very little contribution from the room, the pink noise will image very strongly right in front of, or at, the listener's position, and in some cases will appear to come from slightly overhead.

It can be interesting to use this technique to help determine speaker placement and

A test I do to determine how much a room is influencing imaging is to play mono pink noise, but with one of the speakers out of polarity. In systems where the room is heavily influencing the imaging, this out of polarity pink noise will sound like a large amorphous blob, but very much in line with the plane of the speakers. In systems with very little contribution from the room, the pink noise will image very strongly right in front of, or at, the listener's position, and in some cases will appear to come from slightly overhead.

It can be interesting to use this technique to help determine speaker placement and toe-in.

Interesting tip! Therefore, if the room has little interaction, it should sound and image similarly to the same test through headphones. I will give it a try on my three setups.

 

[MakeMineVinyl]

Interesting tip! Therefore, if the room has little interaction, it should sound and image similarly to the same test through headphones. I will give it a try on my three setups.

I think the imaging of out of polarity pink noise on headphones can be sort of similar, however with very little room interaction while using speakers, it will sound almost like mono pink noise, but it will be right in front of you, or perhaps a bit overhead. It will very strongly do this if your speakers are directional enough (like full range horns), if your room boundaries are well away from the sides and rear of the speakers, and the listening position is well away from the back wall. In other words, the rule of thirds. Its almost like this technique can be used as a 'focusing aid'.

Speakers which have very wide dispersion to the point where its impossible to isolate the direct sound from reflected sound and the room is highly reverberant will have less ability to throw the image strongly to the listening position.

I've never seen this technique mentioned anywhere. But try it; it can be useful.

 

[Steve D]

Again great tip! Especially, for anyone who has not addressed the issue of room acoustics/speaker placement and their interactions. Getting this right is by far the most important thing. I have heard $2000 systems in a great room sound way better than five figure systems, in a bad room, with bad speaker placement or both.

 

[MakeMineVinyl]

Again great tip! Especially, for anyone who has not addressed the issue of room acoustics/speaker placement and their interactions. Getting this right is by far the most important thing. I have heard $2000 systems in a great room sound way better than five figure systems, in a bad room, with bad speaker placement or both.

Let us know how it goes. If it works well for you, perhaps this could be the topic of a new thread.

I might add that time coincidence between the speaker drivers amplifies this effect. My horns are aligned so that the drivers are physically co-incident in the vertical plane and my crossovers (active) are 4th order Linkwitz-Riley.

 

[Steve D]

Let us know how it goes. If it works well for you, perhaps this could be the topic of a new thread.

I might add that time coincidence between the speaker drivers amplifies this effect. My horns are aligned so that the drivers are physically co-incident in the vertical plane and my crossovers (active) are 4th order Linkwitz-Riley.

I will let you know. I feel that my room is as good as it is currently going to get. I have some sidewall glass and a slightly longer dimension on the other side wall. I too spent many hours time aligning my driver's to my seated ear position and symmetrical placement (within 2 millimeters) and with toe-in. It makes a big difference. I agree it is almost like focusing binoculars. It's amazing how it snaps into place!

 

[MakeMineVinyl]

I will let you know. I feel that my room is as good as it is currently going to get. I have some sidewall glass and a slightly longer dimension on the other side wall. I too spent many hours time aligning my driver's to my seated ear position and symmetrical placement (within 2 millimeters) and with toe-in. It makes a big difference. I agree it is almost like focusing binoculars. It's amazing how it snaps into place!

Shortening the speaker to listener distance is a good way to reduce room contribution too.

 

[beefkabob]

I'm not a fan of headphones for anything but casual music listening. I find that, minus the room, music loses a lot of life. Just give me some room correction is all.

 

[Steve D]

I'm not a fan of headphones for anything but casual music listening. I find that, minus the room, music loses a lot of life. Just give me some room correction is all.

I agree Bob. Headphones are good for listening for details or when you need to not bother others but not the same. A good stereo set up has so much more life and impact.

 

[Platinum Highs]

I have owned the Emotiva DR2 and a pair of Hypex 2K monoblocks. The DR 2 is a bright sounding amp with raspy treble. I could easily hear the distortion during music playback.

My basic Crown XLI 3500 amp sounded better than the Emotiva DR2. Given the price, the Hypex 2K monoblocks were the most disappointing of all. The highs with them were refined, however they sounded recessed.

 

[Platinum Highs]

I want to post a quick follow up here. I recently purchased a pair of Emotiva DR1 model monoblocks. I must say they sound much better than the Emotiva DR2 stereo amp that I owned last year. The mids and highs show no signs of compression or raspiness like the DR2. They are the best sounding amos I've ever owned and I've owned over fifty amps.

And they sound much better than the Hypex NC2K amps that I owned. It just goes to show why I will never go by measurements alone when making a purchase.

 

[joeliu2003]

Just adding my experience.

Went with a DR2 for my EVO4.4 towers about a month ago. It was loud…and relatively clear, but thank to this forum I decided to order a Audiophonics two channel to compare.

I can say after listening for a couple of days with the Audiophonic S600NC — there is just no going back. Absolutely zero distortion even at very loud (95 db +) listening levels.

Will happily be returning my DR2.

Thanks again all for this great resource!!

 

[theswede]

Adding my 2c as well with a DR3 and an XPA-G3 amongst others, firstly I don't get how the DR would measure that bad. I tested mine when it arrived and compared it to an older Rotel class AB and they both measured at around -80 to -90db distorsion iirc with the DR amp on its lower rail voltage and I should say perfectly enjoyable in that state. Not so much on the higher rail voltages which adds distortion at higher frequencies but imho is only noticeable if you listen to music.

So all in all, if you are looking for a home theater setup the DR amps are pretty smart, most of the time the amp will stay cool on its lower rails and sound good while also being able to deliver crazy dynamics in action scenes etc. They are hard to beat in that respect and the added distorsion with the rails switching is not an issue in movies. For music you usually stay on the lower rails unless your speakers are very ineffective.

The XPA-G3 though is maybe acceptable for movies etc but not music in my setup (I am assuming they sat right at the rail switching at my typical volume level for music) so they have been repurposed as sub amps which they are really good at btw.

Right now I am testing the Hypex NC400 to understand if they can replace my DR3, I am only a few weeks in and even though they are very impressive in many ways they are not objectively overall superior in my setup so I would not swap them for the DR3 just yet.

 

[joeliu2003]

Adding my 2c as well with a DR3 and an XPA-G3 amongst others, firstly I don't get how the DR would measure that bad. I tested mine when it arrived and compared it to an older Rotel class AB and they both measured at around -80 to -90db distorsion iirc with the DR amp on its lower rail voltage and I should say perfectly enjoyable in that state. Not so much on the higher rail voltages which adds distortion at higher frequencies but imho is only noticeable if you listen to music.

So all in all, if you are looking for a home theater setup the DR amps are pretty smart, most of the time the amp will stay cool on its lower rails and sound good while also being able to deliver crazy dynamics in action scenes etc. They are hard to beat in that respect and the added distorsion with the rails switching is not an issue in movies. For music you usually stay on the lower rails unless your speakers are very ineffective.

The XPA-G3 though is maybe acceptable for movies etc but not music in my setup (I am assuming they sat right at the rail switching at my typical volume level for music) so they have been repurposed as sub amps which they are really good at btw.

Right now I am testing the Hypex NC400 to understand if they can replace my DR3, I am only a few weeks in and even though they are very impressive in many ways they are not objectively overall superior in my setup so I would not swap them for the DR3 just yet.

@theswede I understand the passable for movies assessment. I’d think that many users are setup for double duty movies & music so are looking for an amp that can handle both well.

I’m curious what the Hypex setup is lacking in your testing. I find the form factor and the clarity at higher levels (95+ db) to be far superior to my now returned DR.

 

[theswede]

@theswede I understand the passable for movies assessment. I’d think that many users are setup for double duty movies & music so are looking for an amp that can handle both well.

I’m curious what the Hypex setup is lacking in your testing. I find the form factor and the clarity at higher levels (95+ db) to be far superior to my now returned DR.

I find the top end to sound slightly distorted with the hypex which is not the case with the DR (at lower volumes) or my old Rotel for example. It's not always a problem though but this youtube clip of birds highlights the issue in my case:

Keen to understand if others can play this with the bird chirps being (subjectively) 100% clean using the Hypex NC400.

I can probably tweak the freq response above 5-10khz to make the Hypex work and overall improve subjective performance over the DR but as I said I am still evaluating.