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Emotiva Ultra Sub 12 died

Matias

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My sub won't turn on and since this model is 10+ years old (this is my 2nd board, I changed in 2014), Emotiva said they have no replacement parts, so I am left to deal with it. Great.

I don't identify who built this board to order a replacement, and the size is not exactly the same as the others listed on parts express. Mine is 23.8 width x 22.8 height cm.
https://www.parts-express.com/speaker-components/subwoofer-plate-amplifiers

I just wished I could replace it with a Hypex Fusion FA501, it would be perfect.
https://www.hypex.nl/product/fusionamp-fa501/158

Any ideas what I can do?

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Seems to be built by a Canada something company.

IMG_20210125_142422.jpg
 
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Matias

Matias

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Pdxwayne

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Both of my Emotiva Ultra Sub 12 lasted only 5 years. So you did well!

Anyway, years back I drilled out a hole on the plate and connected the speaker's wire directly to an external amp. That is one other option you can consider.
 
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Matias

Matias

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Why not stick the hypex plate amp in a box and run it outside of the sub. Just leave the old broken plate amp where it is?

Anyway, years back I cut out a hole and connected the speaker's wire directly to an external amp. That is one other option you can consider.

In fact I have ordered a 6 channel power amplifier to use with my HT and 1 channel of the NC502MP was going to be unused (1x 500W in 4 ohms). Maybe I should just drill a hole and extend the inner cable to the new power amplifier then. But I would rely 100% on the AVR low pass as the power amp will deliver full range to the subwoofer.

Plan C: check that and caps are not bulging and if they are replace them.
Nothing visually bulging or burned that I can see.
 
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Pdxwayne

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In fact I have ordered a 6 channel power amplifier to use with my HT and 1 channel of the NC502MP was going to be unused (1x 500W in 4 ohms). Maybe I should just drill a hole and extend the inner cable to the new power amplifier then. But I would rely 100% on the AVR low pass as the power amp will deliver full range to the subwoofer.


Nothing visually bulging or burned that I can see.
If you want independent volume, low pass, and phase control, you can get something like this and built a custom box to host it:
https://www.parts-express.com/Yung-...d4UGhd1Og1eogryJnw_cxqmYa8pFSOLBoCoI4QAvD_BwE
 

Rick Sykora

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Did you check the fuse? Does it make any sound, etc.?
 
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Matias

Matias

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Matias

Matias

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Id just get a crown amp and use it as external amp
If I go external amp I will use the extra channel I have unused on my new multichannel power amp.
 

MusicNBeer

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10 years is good for those plate amps. Donate it to your local landfill. You could cut a piece of MDF to its size and put nice binding posts for an external amp, if you have an extra amp to use. If not, I'd just buy a new sub.
 

restorer-john

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Let's fix it!

I dunno what's wrong with people these days, advocating disposing of everything. :facepalm:

Firstly, it's an SMPS/amp single board and assume everything is live. Be careful and keep one hand in your pocket at all times.

Step 1:
Unplug, remove and continuity check the 3.15A M205 fuse in the IEC socket. A failed SMPS will take out that fuse instantly.
Step 2:
Check your primary side SMPS components, especially any NTC varistors, inline low value resistors and the bridge rectifier.

Report back.
 
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Matias

Matias

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Actually this sub is from 2011 and had a first amp plate that died on 2014. Emotiva back then sent me a new one, and this new one died now. So it lasted about 3 years and 6 years. Not so great reliability.

@restorer-john Thanks for helping me troubleshoot. I agree fixing would be ideal, reusing the box and driver second best, and disposing it all dead last option. Later I can check the fuse continuity with my multimeter alright. But disoldering the amp parts and testing them each this is way above my capacities. :)
 

restorer-john

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Later I can check the fuse continuity with my multimeter alright.

If the fuse is obviously blown, then forget the continuity test of course. Sometimes (quite often actually) fuses can appear fine (visually) but are open circuit (hidden failure under the end cap).
 
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Matias

Matias

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Ok, tested continuity and the fuse is fine. I suspect the power supply may have died of overvoltage on the mains. The sub is rated 120V and my mains were doing 131V the day it died...
 

restorer-john

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What is interesting is the single Panasonic capacitor that looks like it has been replaced previously. The rest of the electrolytics are pick and place- it's a different brand and hand soldered. I think the board you received as a replacement was a rework.

pana.JPG
 
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Matias

Matias

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If only they had chosen some standard of the shelf modules or amp boards, like an ICEpower for example, and added their crossover board before it... Would have been a lot easier to unscrew and replace.
 

Rick Sykora

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While I generally agree with @restorer-john on fixing if you can, given that this amp is not pristine and not working, would not spend any time on it. Even if you have someone that could do for you, I suggest you replace.

Adapting another plate amp or doing an external subwoofer amp seems best. Can always try the spare amp/amp channel route, but found that (without good LP filter), may confuse some room eq operation. If my older Onkyo hears subwoofer producing higher frequencies, it thinks it is not a subwoofer! I fixed with a minidsp 2x4 for $100, so may be another possibility for you.

Hope this helps. Good luck!
 
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