Yes. You'll need to send the Left output from the preamp into two ins on the amplifier, and then out to the treble and bass binding posts separately.
Biamping like this won't make a big difference in sound unless you're really starved for power. But with this setup you're only one step away from pulling out the passive crossovers entirely and going active. If you take the preout into something like
this Dayton crossover, physically remove the crossover from your speakers and wire the tweeter and the woofer directly to their respective binding posts, you can get a far bigger advantage, because you're now doing the crossover in the digital space prior to amplification, and connecting the amp directly to the drivers, which is much more efficient and allows much more fine-grained control over crossover, EQ, and things like correcting for time alignment of your tweeter and woofer.