Audiofool1Q84
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- May 21, 2021
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I even had the chance to listen to my pair on a lowly Marantz PM5005 and they still sounded amazing in an untreated room with no sub. I just love these speakers.
Imo a/b amps are impossible to tell apart within the limits of normal performance... As long as it isn't clipping ....Well, people even swear putting an amp on a stand makes an audible difference, as here https://audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/extreme-snake-oil.24765/post-1316562
So no doubt they claiming different amps sound completely different.
That might be true, however, for amps that significantly distort the signal (cough, tube amps, cough), but I would really doubt most people (except some extremely gifted audio professionals, perhaps) can tell two amps with SINAD both > 90 apart.
That room begs for a projector. An entry level HD, nothing too expensive. Paint the wall a suitable color and you won't need a screen. Enjoy the speakersboxem audio Arthur 3409/N2
MiniDsp Flex
SVS SB1000pro
Elac debut reference DBR-62
Set everything together last Monday.
Just installed the software and did the basic settings in Flex plugin.
Placed the speakers exactly where I had my previous set(JBL LSR305).
I had worked a lot on placement and listening position with my previous speakers and same sub.
I know you want measurements and not subjective listening experience.
But I don't even have the latter.
Just gave them 50 hours of playing radio in the background when I was at home.
And a pair of flac files.
Some critical listening will start this weekend.
My first impressions are....wow!
Speakers sound amazing and I am particularly pleased with their bass and surprised I don't miss accuracy given I was used to a pair of studio monitors. I could say Elac's sound more accurate to my ears during this first hours with them.
I can't imagine how these things can sound better, and Dirac or REW seem missions impossible to me as this is my first passive set up and I even struggled(and found help in this forum) to make some basic settings on outputs and crossovers on the plugin.
EQ also seems complicated but I will definitely experiment with it.
ps: only tried them in a stereo setup(toed in). Just listened them straight for 5 minutes and I hands down prefer them toed in.
I will off course try different angles and give some more time to direct positioning.
You won't get a good transition between the subwoofer and speaker without a dedicated crossover device like a mini dsp or a AV-Receiver.
The best results without a crossover is about 40 to 50 Hz as crossover frequency and the phase switch on the position where the bass is louder at the listing position.
Without a crossover and lowering room modes the bass won't be good no matter how hard you try.
That's not the only place I see for the sub, but anyway, the crossover is decided based on measurements and listening. With that said, I bet 80 Hz would work better than 60 Hz for those speakers.I have Klipsch R-10S. The speakers are 5' apart and the sub is in between (only way it works in my room). I have it at 60hz right now. I have Yamaha S501 amp, so I can't adjust much beyond just the gain/crossover. I can't tell if I should have it at 80-100 since it's between the speakers, or if 60 is probably right where I need to be?
Those can't be fixed by wall treatments. Only moving subs and seats, then EQ, helps there.And room modes is basically handled by wall treatment?
That's not the only place I see for the sub, but anyway, the crossover is decided based on measurements and listening. With that said, I bet 80 Hz would work better than 60 Hz for those speakers.
Those can't be fixed by wall treatments. Only moving subs and seats, then EQ, helps there.
I have tried with 140 Hz in a similar situation - a 100 Watt subwoofer in the middle in the same horizontal level as were Elacs. The bass boost was definitely there, a bit wider stage, but I have been disappointed with a lack of "soft texture" in lows, to which I have been accustomed with them already. So I preferred to let them without Sub for serious listening in the end... I think, that it's also heavily related to a type of filter used, and definitely measurements will finetune it further. So, the above suggested active crossover with DSP will help you more then some adviced "best" frequencies...
About 40 - 50Hz is the -3dB point of the elac in a room. With a higher crossover of the subwoofer you will most likely create a peak in the overlap of elac and sub.Why 40-50? Everything I've seen on the Elac's says about 60. Just curious. Others told me to go 100-120 if it's between the speakers, which seemed weird to me. This is for 2.1 music only. I have phase at normal, I did test with SPL. It was about the same at both normal and reverse.
What kind of "mini dsp" might you recommend on a budget? I'm new to hi-fi in this regard... I will say when I adjust the crossover on the sub itself, it doesn't seem to change much of anything. Even if I turn it to the 200 max or whatever it is, it seems everything it still playing pretty much about the same to my ears. I assume this involves buying the mini DSP and getting into room EQ'ing and into the digital EQ thing, which I've been mostly going against doing (actual diagnosed OCD person thing; that many options is a nightmare to me).
And room modes is basically handled by wall treatment? That's definitely a down the line idea. I just moved from OR to SC in May and the budget is about spent, esp. since all this equipment is new.
To avoid the subwoofer is the typical reaction of a subwoofer which isn't integrated well. And without a highpass for the speaker and a fitting lowpass for the subwoofer and some measurements and eq of room modes it won't be good enough for most people.I have tried with 140 Hz in a similar situation - a 100 Watt subwoofer in the middle in the same horizontal level as were Elacs. The bass boost was definitely there, a bit wider stage, but I have been disappointed with a lack of "soft texture" in lows, to which I have been accustomed with them already. So I preferred to let them without Sub for serious listening in the end... I think, that it's also heavily related to a type of filter used, and definitely measurements will finetune it further. So, the above suggested active crossover with DSP will help you more then some adviced "best" frequencies...
To avoid the subwoofer is the typical reaction of a subwoofer which isn't integrated well. And without a highpass for the speaker and a fitting lowpass for the subwoofer and some measurements and eq of room modes it won't be good enough for most people.
Yes the poor integration is to disturbing for music at least and the cheaper subwoofer didn't provide a way to apply room eq or a highpass of the speakers and without both it is next to impossible to integrate the subwoofer well.Is there any truth that if the sub is between the speakers a higher crossover is usually better, like from 40-60 if it were outside the speakers to 80+ if it's between the speakers instead? I read that on a few websites.
Thanks for the info. I've seen 40-50 and 80hz mentioned. Guess I'll turn it up and see what sounds better.
Are you saying the sub itself isn't a good idea for most people without EQ? I notice a huge improvement with it. It's obviously not properly tuned but it definitely adds to the experience.
Think of them as standing waves. The area in the bathtub where a wave collides with the reflection from the previous wave.Hmm ok. Never heard of room modes. Again, new to thisWill research.
Yes the poor integration is to disturbing for music at least and the cheaper subwoofer didn't provide a way to apply room eq or a highpass of the speakers and without both it is next to impossible to integrate the subwoofer well.
Outside the speakers the localization of the subwoofer can be a problem therefore the lower crossover frequency which helps. But the best crossover point is dependent on the subwoofer speaker positioning and room and can't be generalized.
A perfect system also has two subwoofer for left and right channel which are placed not to far away from the speaker. Since research has shown that the sense of the room size of the recording and envelopment of sound needs stereo subbass with its phase information.
Think of them as standing waves. The area in the bathtub where a wave collides with the reflection from the previous wave.
It's hard to say from here. Your current spot may be the best, or it may not be. You'll just need to test. Ideally, we measure with something like a MiniDSP UMIK-1.Thanks. I'm still curious where you might place the sub instead?