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Edifier MR4 Review (Budget Monitor)

Rate this speaker:

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 27 7.9%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 91 26.5%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 171 49.9%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 54 15.7%

  • Total voters
    343
Does anyone knows how much electricity does MR4 pull when idling on monitor/red mode? Because I never turn it offU

I measured around 5W at 230V. Unfortunately they do not go automatically into idle.

Thats more than the ADAM T7V which only takes 2 W per speaker!
 
From what I know, idle and stand by are two different things. The Adams may have a stand by feature that shuts off the amplifier. Idle means having the amp ON but not playing anything. I don't know if the Edifiers really have a stand by mode that turns off the amp after a while or they just stay idle.
 
I measured around 5W at 230V. Unfortunately they do not go automatically into idle.

Thats more than the ADAM T7V which only takes 2 W per speaker!
Which, mind you, also is very little even by the standards of Class D / SMPS equipped monitors. Genelec 8020Ds and 8030Cs are spec'd at ≤3 W.

5 W per speaker still isn't bad. My old K+H O110s (all analog with 2x50 W AB amps) consume 10.5 W each, and if anything idle power consumption on newer Neumann KH120 models is up from there, although the current KH120 IIs have auto-standby which drops their spec'd 15 W to 0.3 W. In an age where you might see an entire PC + monitor idling at 30 W or less, these numbers become relevant. If I were to get some KH310s @ 24 W each, they would easily consume as much power as the rest of my PC setup. I try not to run my monitors too much needlessly as-is. They're on a small switched power strip mounted underneath the desk that is easily reached from my sitting position (a simple, robust and inexpensive solution that should easily last for years if you buy something of decent quality).
 
Which, mind you, also is very little even by the standards of Class D / SMPS equipped monitors. Genelec 8020Ds and 8030Cs are spec'd at ≤3 W.

5 W per speaker still isn't bad. My old K+H O110s (all analog with 2x50 W AB amps) consume 10.5 W each, and if anything idle power consumption on newer Neumann KH120 models is up from there, although the current KH120 IIs have auto-standby which drops their spec'd 15 W to 0.3 W. In an age where you might see an entire PC + monitor idling at 30 W or less, these numbers become relevant. If I were to get some KH310s @ 24 W each, they would easily consume as much power as the rest of my PC setup. I try not to run my monitors too much needlessly as-is. They're on a small switched power strip mounted underneath the desk that is easily reached from my sitting position (a simple, robust and inexpensive solution that should easily last for years if you buy something of decent quality).
thanks for the updates.


since only one speaker has the electronic - it would be only 2.5W per speaker (for the MR4). unfortunately if you power them hard off and on again, they stay off and you need to manually switch them back on again.

some other input equipment from me:

My older audioengine 5+ still take 18W idle - but i think its AB.

topping PA II is at 8.5W.

Powerfull game computers still idle around ~60W, idle power optimized desktop ~ 10W (w.o. monitor though). Still trying to get my home server < ~5W.
 
From what I know, idle and stand by are two different things. The Adams may have a stand by feature that shuts off the amplifier. Idle means having the amp ON but not playing anything. I don't know if the Edifiers really have a stand by mode that turns off the amp after a while or they just stay idle.

those numbers for both being idle - means that the power if you play music at low volume.

AFAIK both do not have standby.
 
Does anyone knows how much electricity does MR4 pull when idling on monitor/red mode? Because I never turn it off.
I measured using one of those in-line plug-in thingies the goes between the wall socket and the device plug.
It showed just over 2w in use and standby. This with 240v/50Hz UK power.
 
I measured using one of those in-line plug-in thingies the goes between the wall socket and the device plug.
It showed just over 2w in use and standby. This with 240v/50Hz UK power.
If it exceeds 0.5W in standby it shouldn't be on sale in the EU, and probably not in the UK either (I don't think we've diverged on that one). If it was a networked speaker it would be allowed to draw more in standby. Are you sure it was in standby not just idle? I do have an oldish TV that takes a couple of minutes between putting it in standby and the power consumption dropping, which fooled me when I first measured it.
 
Does anyone knows how much electricity does MR4 pull when idling on monitor/red mode? Because I never turn it off.

0.1 watt when off/standby
3.9 watts when on without playing music
4.0 watts when playing music at a decent level (80~85dB @ 1m)
 
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If it exceeds 0.5W in standby it shouldn't be on sale in the EU, and probably not in the UK either (I don't think we've diverged on that one). If it was a networked speaker it would be allowed to draw more in standby. Are you sure it was in standby not just idle? I do have an oldish TV that takes a couple of minutes between putting it in standby and the power consumption dropping, which fooled me when I first measured it.
Of course, you are correct. That 2w was only measured in use and 'idle' (no signal going to it) but not actually standby.
My apologies for misleading and causing additional effort to point out my error.
 
Has anyone come up yet with a base EQ for the "v2" of the MR4s? Mine has that 3k peak, and I haven't found a good EQ for them so far. I don't have a measurement mic, they're absurdly expensive here (Brazil), so having a having a starting point would be great.
 
Just bought a used for 2 weeks MR4 for around 79USD (converted from 1 USD = 16500 IDR). In Indonesia it come with 3 years warranty. Used it for a near field listing, place between laptop stand. I don't know which version that I got, but I tried the PEQ from


and also tried peq from post #8 https://audiosciencereview.com/foru...-mr4-review-budget-monitor.29068/post-1014112

I prefer the sound with peq from post #8. But the sound without EQ is already very good for me. Compare to Edifier R1280 that I own for not long, the MR4 is definitely much better by a large margin.

If you use EqualizerAPO and tried the EQ, better put the preamp to -4.8. In my windows if I don't put preamp lower than -4db, the woofer will distort even playing in medium volume. I haven't got time to do in room measurement, will post it here if I've done it.
 
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If you use EqualizerAPO and tried the EQ, better put the preamp to -4.8. In my windows if I don't put preamp lower than -4db, the woofer will distort even playing in medium volume.
The "Avoid Clipping" function in PEACE is very handy for determining the appropriate amount of pre-gain.
 
Has anyone come up yet with a base EQ for the "v2" of the MR4s? Mine has that 3k peak, and I haven't found a good EQ for them so far. I don't have a measurement mic, they're absurdly expensive here (Brazil), so having a having a starting point would be great.
same.. i tried the measured v1 recommended eq and it made the treble even worse, mind to share your current eq? i think my v2 has 3-4k peak too, i tried eqing it by ear but sometimes depending on the sound/loudness it hurts my ears because its too piercing
 
It actually looks OK? I've used it before and it sounded like one person was split in two and speaking in two different places, pretty bad. Did I not understand something in this article?
 
It actually looks OK? I've used it before and it sounded like one person was split in two and speaking in two different places, pretty bad. Did I not understand something in this article?
seem like left and right speaker out of phase, make sure you plug the cable correctly between the right and left speaker.
 
same.. i tried the measured v1 recommended eq and it made the treble even worse, mind to share your current eq? i think my v2 has 3-4k peak too, i tried eqing it by ear but sometimes depending on the sound/loudness it hurts my ears because its too piercing

currently, i'm using this EQ (+some filters for resonances that i caught in my room by ear, but they're not included here), which is purely based on the “v2” measurements. it worked really well for me to avoid ear fatigue and honestly has been a lifesaver for mixing in my untreated room.

Preamp: -6.9 dB
Filter 1: ON PK Fc 60 Hz Gain 6.9 dB Q 1.3
Filter 2: ON PK Fc 660 Hz Gain -0.7 dB Q 2.0
Filter 3: ON PK Fc 830 Hz Gain 0.9 dB Q 2.0
Filter 4: ON PK Fc 2400 Hz Gain 1.0 dB Q 2.0
Filter 5: ON PK Fc 3100 Hz Gain -2.5 dB Q 2.0
Filter 6: ON PK Fc 4300 Hz Gain 0.9 dB Q 2.0
Filter 7: ON PK Fc 8000 Hz Gain -0.8 dB Q 2.0
Filter 8: ON PK Fc 10000 Hz Gain 2.1 dB Q 2.0
Filter 9: ON PK Fc 12000 Hz Gain -1.9 dB Q 1.3
Filter 10: ON PK Fc 13000 Hz Gain -1.4 dB Q 2.0

Edit: using Crinacle's tool, which allows bigger Q values, i also got this EQ. it's essentially the same thing, just another approach to it, so you can choose whichever one makes more sense to you.

Preamp: -6.8 dB
Filter 1: ON PK Fc 60 Hz Gain 7.8 dB Q 1.3
Filter 2: ON PK Fc 72 Hz Gain -3.6 dB Q 4.0
Filter 3: ON PK Fc 880 Hz Gain 0.9 dB Q 3.4
Filter 4: ON PK Fc 1100 Hz Gain -0.7 dB Q 4.9
Filter 5: ON PK Fc 2400 Hz Gain 0.7 dB Q 5.0
Filter 6: ON PK Fc 2900 Hz Gain -0.9 dB Q 4.8
Filter 7: ON PK Fc 3300 Hz Gain -1.6 dB Q 3.6
Filter 8: ON PK Fc 4300 Hz Gain 1.1 dB Q 5.0
Filter 9: ON PK Fc 7900 Hz Gain -1.0 dB Q 4.9
Filter 10: ON PK Fc 13000 Hz Gain -2.8 dB Q 3.1
 
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currently, i'm using this EQ (+some filters for resonances that i caught in my room by ear, but they're not included here), which is purely based on the “v2” measurements. it worked really well for me to avoid ear fatigue and honestly has been a lifesaver for mixing in my untreated room.

Preamp: -6.9 dB
Filter 1: ON PK Fc 60 Hz Gain 6.9 dB Q 1.3
Filter 2: ON PK Fc 660 Hz Gain -0.7 dB Q 2.0
Filter 3: ON PK Fc 830 Hz Gain 0.9 dB Q 2.0
Filter 4: ON PK Fc 2400 Hz Gain 1.0 dB Q 2.0
Filter 5: ON PK Fc 3100 Hz Gain -2.5 dB Q 2.0
Filter 6: ON PK Fc 4300 Hz Gain 0.9 dB Q 2.0
Filter 7: ON PK Fc 8000 Hz Gain -0.8 dB Q 2.0
Filter 8: ON PK Fc 10000 Hz Gain 2.1 dB Q 2.0
Filter 9: ON PK Fc 12000 Hz Gain -1.9 dB Q 1.3
Filter 10: ON PK Fc 13000 Hz Gain -1.4 dB Q 2.0

Edit: using Crinacle's tool, which allows bigger Q values, i also got this EQ. it's essentially the same thing, just another approach to it, so you can choose whichever one makes more sense to you.

Preamp: -6.8 dB
Filter 1: ON PK Fc 60 Hz Gain 7.8 dB Q 1.3
Filter 2: ON PK Fc 72 Hz Gain -3.6 dB Q 4.0
Filter 3: ON PK Fc 880 Hz Gain 0.9 dB Q 3.4
Filter 4: ON PK Fc 1100 Hz Gain -0.7 dB Q 4.9
Filter 5: ON PK Fc 2400 Hz Gain 0.7 dB Q 5.0
Filter 6: ON PK Fc 2900 Hz Gain -0.9 dB Q 4.8
Filter 7: ON PK Fc 3300 Hz Gain -1.6 dB Q 3.6
Filter 8: ON PK Fc 4300 Hz Gain 1.1 dB Q 5.0
Filter 9: ON PK Fc 7900 Hz Gain -1.0 dB Q 4.9
Filter 10: ON PK Fc 13000 Hz Gain -2.8 dB Q 3.1
Did you measure the speakers yourself or use measurements from this thread?
Regardless I like these EQ settings.
 
Did you measure the speakers yourself or use measurements from this thread?
Regardless I like these EQ settings.
i didn't measure them myself, i got the measurements from this specific comment, which should be the "v2", considering the boost around 3k:

 
Filter 10: O

currently, i'm using this EQ (+some filters for resonances that i caught in my room by ear, but they're not included here), which is purely based on the “v2” measurements. it worked really well for me to avoid ear fatigue and honestly has been a lifesaver for mixing in my untreated room.

Preamp: -6.9 dB
Filter 1: ON PK Fc 60 Hz Gain 6.9 dB Q 1.3
Filter 2: ON PK Fc 660 Hz Gain -0.7 dB Q 2.0
Filter 3: ON PK Fc 830 Hz Gain 0.9 dB Q 2.0
Filter 4: ON PK Fc 2400 Hz Gain 1.0 dB Q 2.0
Filter 5: ON PK Fc 3100 Hz Gain -2.5 dB Q 2.0
Filter 6: ON PK Fc 4300 Hz Gain 0.9 dB Q 2.0
Filter 7: ON PK Fc 8000 Hz Gain -0.8 dB Q 2.0
Filter 8: ON PK Fc 10000 Hz Gain 2.1 dB Q 2.0
Filter 9: ON PK Fc 12000 Hz Gain -1.9 dB Q 1.3
Filter 10: ON PK Fc 13000 Hz Gain -1.4 dB Q 2.0

Edit: using Crinacle's tool, which allows bigger Q values, i also got this EQ. it's essentially the same thing, just another approach to it, so you can choose whichever one makes more sense to you.

Preamp: -6.8 dB
Filter 1: ON PK Fc 60 Hz Gain 7.8 dB Q 1.3
Filter 2: ON PK Fc 72 Hz Gain -3.6 dB Q 4.0
Filter 3: ON PK Fc 880 Hz Gain 0.9 dB Q 3.4
Filter 4: ON PK Fc 1100 Hz Gain -0.7 dB Q 4.9
Filter 5: ON PK Fc 2400 Hz Gain 0.7 dB Q 5.0
Filter 6: ON PK Fc 2900 Hz Gain -0.9 dB Q 4.8
Filter 7: ON PK Fc 3300 Hz Gain -1.6 dB Q 3.6
Filter 8: ON PK Fc 4300 Hz Gain 1.1 dB Q 5.0
Filter 9: ON PK Fc 7900 Hz Gain -1.0 dB Q 4.9
Filter 10: ON PK Fc 13000 Hz Gain -2.8 dB Q 3.1
i tried yours but it was still too harsh, so heres mine
 

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i tried yours but it was still too harsh, so heres mine
that's a bit weird. the 60Hz boost counterbalances the overall harshness at a 75-85db loudness for me. from what i've heard here, your EQ feels kinda dark to me, like it lacks character, which is not really ideal for proper mixing translation in my case. i believe you might be overly sensitive to the 3-4k region, as much as i am to 15k. consider utilizing a Harman Room target instead. louder bass should neutralize harshness, ideally. worst case scenario, a darker monitor might be the go-to for a future upgrade, assuming you might not be very comfortable with a flatter frequency response. if you have any IEMs, have you tried using Crinacle's 5128 IEF Preference 2025 target? it's a very good test to equalize your IEMs to check if it sounds overly harsh for you, since the 3k region has a considerable boost.
 
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