Edifier MR4 2.0 vs Presonus Eris E3.5 vs Mackie CR3-X

[jtk9412]

First, I don't have much knowledge about speakers. So if you say buy this, I will listen you for sure. I am interested in music producing but since I am not even an amateur, I don't really care about the speakers being flat, etc. I just want to buy something reliable overall.

I only have 3 different products to choose between ant nothing else. It is because some of other speakers are not in stock/available or overpriced in here.

I decided to get a Mackie CR3-X, then I saw some topics about some people whining over the physical quality. As what I understand, CR3-X has a plastic switch behind and it might break pretty easily, even if you don't use it. I also saw some writings about its power unit or something. Some people were losing their products to that failure.

Then I started researching Presonus Eris E3.5 and unlike Mackie CR3-X, I didn't see a community complaining over the exact problems. However I didn't like the bass quality of Eris E3.5 after watching some comparison videos. I came across Erin's videos and saw that I can make it sound a bit better by tweaking the knobs behind the speaker.

Then I saw Edifier MR4 2.0, it was in stock. I compared the sound of Presonus Eris E3.5 and this one and MR4 sounded way better in my opinion. I watched some reviews for this product and I ordered an MR4 2.0 (can cancel my order). I made sure to watch Erin's review and he was OK with this product when you compare it with Presonus Eris E3.5 and Mackie CR3-X.

I also heared that if you buy an Edifier MR4 2.0, you will also need to get a subwoofer. Is it still necessary? As what I heared from comparison videos, this speaker still has better bass than Eris E3.5 anyway. Is it really going to be worse than my Logitech Z313 2+1 in terms of bass?

Please keep in mind that those 3 are my only options and all of them has the same price in here. I will be using those daily for typical daily stuff like listening music, watching movies and maybe music producing just once a month. Since I am upgrading from Logitech Z313, it is going to make a big difference anyway. I just want something reliable because I don't like to upgrade my gear every year or so.

 

[3125b]

Those are all flawed speakers, but the MR4 are clearly the best.

 

[fieldcar]

I know you said that you have no other options, but if you're in the USA, I'd wait for the JBL 305P mkii to go on sale again for $99/ea. It happens almost every black friday, usually at bandh.com , adorama.com , or musiciansfriend.com have the deal.

 

[jtk9412]

Those are all flawed speakers, but the MR4 are clearly the best.

Is is still going to be a big upgrade from Z313 2+1, even without any subwoofer?

I know you said that you have no other options, but if you're in the USA, I'd wait for the JBL 305P mkii to go on sale again for $99/ea. It happens almost every black friday, usually at bandh.com , adorama.com , or musiciansfriend.com have the deal.

I'm not living in the US. They sell a pair of any of those models for 160 dollars, including everything. Believe me or not, those 3 are the cheapest options in here. If I wanted to buy the JBL one you mentioned, I would have to pay 300 dollars for each speakers, 600 dollars a pair. So I am really, like really limited.

I will buy one of those 3 for 160 dollars (without any subwoofer) or a Logitech Z533 2+1 for 125 dollars. Which one would you prefer? Is MR4 going to be a better option than my Logitech Z313 2+1, even without a subwoofer?

 

[fieldcar]

Which one would you prefer?

The MR4 is still the best option. It may not dig as deep as the Logitech speakers with the sub, but that's where you can just start EQ'ing with Peace EQ.

 

[jtk9412]

The MR4 is still the best option. It may not dig as deep as the Logitech speakers with the sub, but that's where you can just start EQ'ing with Peace EQ.

I also found a brand new M-Audio BX5 D3 for the same price. Is MR4 still going to be a better option over this one?

 

[fieldcar]

I also found a brand new M-Audio BX5 D3 for the same price. Is MR4 still going to be a better option over this one?

The M-audio is probably slightly better, but has a low frequency extension of only 90Hz (F3) instead of the edifier's 65Hz (F3). Both require a subwoofer if it was my setup. Any chance you can get Kali speakers? The LP-6 V1 & V2 goes down to 45Hz, but they are in the $200-400USD range. But you wouldn't get immediate urge to upgrade with the Kali's.

M-Audio BX5 D3 | Active Monitor | Measurements, Teardown & Subjective Impressions

The M-Audio BX5 D3 is rather ubiquitous among budget studio monitors, so I thought it only fitting that I purchase a unit and publish the first complete set of measurements. This monitor typically retails for approximately €80 but I paid only €60 for this particular unit, so it has the...

www.audiosciencereview.com

 

[jtk9412]

The M-audio is probably slightly better, but has a low frequency extension of only 90Hz (F3) instead of the edifier's 65Hz (F3). Both require a subwoofer if it was my setup. Any chance you can get Kali speakers? The LP-6 V1 & V2 goes down to 45Hz, but they are in the $200-400USD range. But you wouldn't get immediate urge to upgrade with the Kali's.

M-Audio BX5 D3 | Active Monitor | Measurements, Teardown & Subjective Impressions

The M-Audio BX5 D3 is rather ubiquitous among budget studio monitors, so I thought it only fitting that I purchase a unit and publish the first complete set of measurements. This monitor typically retails for approximately €80 but I paid only €60 for this particular unit, so it has the...

www.audiosciencereview.com

Kalis are 600 dollars for a pair sadly. As I said, I am not planning to get a subwoofer, if I can make my Z313's subwoofer to work with the speaker I get, then I will use it but nothing more. What I understand is that MR4 is going to be a little bit better option since the speakers itself can make 65Hz instead of 90Hz, right?

 

[fieldcar]

Kalis are 600 dollars for a pair sadly.

Dang. Oh well.

What I understand is that MR4 is going to be a little bit better option since the speakers itself can make 65Hz instead of 90Hz, right?

Yeah. Deeper bass on the MR4.

 

[Eetu]

Edifier MR4 and then install EqualizerAPO to EQ the response based on the Klippel data. EQ settings here.

 

[jtk9412]

Edifier MR4 and then install EqualizerAPO to EQ the response based on the Klippel data. EQ settings here.

I could not figure out how to apply those settings by copying and pasting, is there any documents or videos that I can watch?

 

[Eetu]

I could not figure out how to apply those settings by copying and pasting, is there any documents or videos that I can watch?

Try this file, should be formatted EQ APO friendly.

You can also just add Parametric EQ peak filters and type the frequency, gain and Q values manually.

 

[jtk9412]

Try this file, should be formatted EQ APO friendly.

You can also just add Parametric EQ peak filters and type the frequency, gain and Q values manually.

It just seems like this, I don't know if I am missing something.

 

[AnalogSteph]

The M-audio is probably slightly better, but has a low frequency extension of only 90Hz (F3) instead of the edifier's 65Hz (F3).

Only if your level reference is the M-Audio's midbass hump, which is silly. By 400 Hz to 15 kHz average, f3 is more like 65 Hz, so basically the same for both, and the M-Audios have substantially better level handling. I reckon one could flatten out things down to 60 Hz without having to apply silly amounts of EQ, and get ~56 Hz f3 and 48 Hz f10.

The MR4 will plug right into a PC line-out or other line out though, whereas that would be likely to be giving you issues with ground loops with the M-Audios, which are typical IEC Class I (earthed) constructions, so that would have to be addressed appropriately.

It just seems like this, I don't know if I am missing something.
View attachment 241217

You're braver than most attempting to tackle EQ APO "barefoot". It is generally used with PEACE as a GUI.

 

[jtk9412]

Only if your level reference is the M-Audio's midbass hump, which is silly. By 400 Hz to 15 kHz average, f3 is more like 65 Hz, so basically the same for both, and the M-Audios have substantially better level handling. I reckon one could flatten out things down to 60 Hz without having to apply silly amounts of EQ, and get ~56 Hz f3 and 48 Hz f10.

The MR4 will plug right into a PC line-out or other line out though, whereas that would be likely to be giving you issues with ground loops with the M-Audios, which are typical IEC Class I (earthed) constructions, so that would have to be addressed appropriately.

You're braver than most attempting to tackle EQ APO "barefoot". It is generally used with PEACE as a GUI.

I just got my speakers and setted the EQ. But I couldn't get something. You will see an EQ button on bottom right of the screenshot. Should that stay in green or grey? It changes the audio when I press it.

 

[xavx]

I just got my speakers and setted the EQ. But I couldn't get something. You will see an EQ button on bottom right of the screenshot. Should that stay in green or grey? It changes the audio when I press it.

View attachment 243461

The EQ button shouldn't be greyed out and you should be able to modify the Quality values. Click on that EQ button to change from graphical EQ to parametric, should do the trick. After, you need to ensure the equalizer is enabled (power button must be green at the top right). If you don't notice any change, then you didn't enable APO drivers for your soundcard. Click the "C" button next to "All devices" then tick the box next to your soundcard. This will ask you to reboot windows.
Last, you're welcome to share your experience

 

[jtk9412]

The EQ button shouldn't be greyed out and you should be able to modify the Quality values. Click on that EQ button to change from graphical EQ to parametric, should do the trick. After, you need to ensure the equalizer is enabled (power button must be green at the top right). If you don't notice any change, then you didn't enable APO drivers for your soundcard. Click the "C" button next to "All devices" then tick the box next to your soundcard. This will ask you to reboot windows.
Last, you're welcome to share your experience

Thanks.

I used this EQ for my pair: https://raw.githubusercontent.com/pierreaubert/spinorama/develop/datas/eq/Edifier MR4/iir-autoeq.txt

The settings overall looks like this:

Since I do not have any subwoofer to use, I use the speakers on music mode instead of monitor mode. The music mode makes the bass and kick more noticeable and strong. I found a way to connect my Logitech Z313's subwoofer to the circulation, however the speakers started making electrical noise so I stopped using it with the subwoofer, it was really disturbing. I hope I will be able to fix this as soon as possible, I still don't know how.

Secondly, should I really use the speakers with EQ on, I mean is it really necessary and does it makes speaker sound better and more accurate 100%? Does this EQ thing should be a standard for my listening sessions?

 

[jtk9412]

The EQ button shouldn't be greyed out and you should be able to modify the Quality values. Click on that EQ button to change from graphical EQ to parametric, should do the trick.

I just realised that when I make the EQ green, Quality values can not be edited. Whenever I turn it to grey, they become editable. Here are the screenshots showing it:

So how it should stay, Green or grey?

 

[xavx]

I just realised that when I make the EQ green, Quality values can not be edited. Whenever I turn it to grey, they become editable. Here are the screenshots showing it:

View attachment 243509
View attachment 243510

So how it should stay, Green or grey?

Bottomline is you should be able to edit these Quality values for the parametric EQ to be active. Otherwise it reverts to graphic EQ.

 

[jtk9412]

Bottomline is you should be able to edit these Quality values for the parametric EQ to be active. Otherwise it reverts to graphic EQ.

So is mine working wrong? Because it is only editable when its greyed out.