I did. I still have to play with the speaker position, but everything has been tried. I didn't save my graphs, but I can remeasure them pretty quickly. I'll post the current results when I get a chance. It's a little smoother now. I changed the crossover to 100 and the sub distance to 13.5 from 16.5. most of my problems are in the 120hz + range, but that will be harder to fix as I have limited placement options for my speakers.In an earlier post you mentioned your disappointment with your new SB3000s. Many sggested it was not so much the SB3000s that were at fault but your settings. Did you follow up on those suggestions?
Probably. Graphically that's true, but to my ears it's the lower frequencies that aren't "punching" but maybe I'm decieved.So it is not your subs that are the problem but mostly the in-room response of your main speakers.
Agree with Jdunk54nl. Even if he gets everything dialed in. I think it might be prudent for him to borrow some larger main speakers with 10'', 12'' or 15'' drivers. I just get the feeling what he is looking for, may require larger mains, of course a pair of 18'' subs wouldn't hurt.having proper levels makes everything sound more seamless and will sound punchier. If you haven't lowered your sub levels, they are overpowering all of the mid bass and you'll lose a lot of "punchiness"
When I get home I'll post the graphs for natural setup, setup with 100Hz crossover, with 13.5 feet distance, and with PEQ added, all of which improve things. I'm going to experiment with the generic EQ in the AVR for the higher frequencies and moving the speakers a bit. Later when I get rid of our old, huge entertainment center I'll have more room to move speakers.Just for FYI, if I get much over 10db higher on my subs, it starts to impact everything else. This is with near perfect phase match and proper crossovers as measured by rew and smaart.
I tried phase at 0 and 180 and didn't see a difference, but I guess I could try other inputs like 90. What about trying one sub at 0 and the other at 180, or would they cancel each other out?Ok, so I'm coming a little late to this, but I had a similar debate:
You have $2500 for a pair of subs. What do?
I ended up getting the pair of SB-3000s for my DSP5200.2 main system. They're exemplary.
I had the same 120Hz issues, in my case a crazy null around there. It was a phase issue, and I just used the phase control on the subwoofers to correct it.
The bass is clean and response in my room even to 20Hz, I haven't bothered measuring lower. The real treat is the reduced distortion in the mains, though, so get your levels right, get the crossover right, make sure the phase is matched, and do what EQ you need. You bought the rights subs, or at least you can't blame them against their competition... they're enough!
I tried phase at 0 and 180 and didn't see a difference, but I guess I could try other inputs like 90. What about trying one sub at 0 and the other at 180, or would they cancel each other out?
Yeah, I only tried 0 and 180 and tested with umik/Rew. The results were identical.The phase is adjustable from 0-180° in increments of 1°. Do you mean you moved the slider to all positions with no good results, or did you only try 0° and 180°? If so, maybe there is a sweet spot you can find.
I'd play a test signal (pink noise is fine) at a reasonable volume (80dB) with ear protection and watch a live response graph in REW while you mess with the phase control live. It's simple but effective at determining whether the phase helps your null. There may be a more rigorous method, but honestly, this works.I tried phase at 0 and 180 and didn't see a difference, but I guess I could try other inputs like 90. What about trying one sub at 0 and the other at 180, or would they cancel each other out?
Sounds good. I'll have to Google how to do the live response graph.I'd play a test signal (pink noise is fine) at a reasonable volume (80dB) with ear protection and watch a live response graph in REW while you mess with the phase control live. It's simple but effective at determining whether the phase helps your null. There may be a more rigorous method, but honestly, this works.
I use the "Generator" to make the Pink Noise in REW, then I use the "RTA" or "Real Time Analyzer" to get the live data feedback. In this case, I would just not bother with the sweep feature you see mentioned a lot in tutorials online because you're looking for more dynamic data, especially if you play with the phase and the phase does nothing, but then discover moving the mic around the room shows a null some places and not others.Sounds good. I'll have to Google how to do the live response graph.
I considered PSA too when I made my purchase, and just couldn't get the money to make sense, but SVS was on sale, and PSA wasn't, so sometimes they may be inverted.I’d look at Powersoundaudio. Owner is former founder of SVS and makes better stuff for less. Otherwise I’d go with SVS because the warranty is better than HSU.
I'll try out the real time analyzer. I'm not super interested in sweeping the room as 90% of the time plus it's just my wife and I sitting in the middle of the couch.I use the "Generator" to make the Pink Noise in REW, then I use the "RTA" or "Real Time Analyzer" to get the live data feedback. In this case, I would just not bother with the sweep feature you see mentioned a lot in tutorials online because you're looking for more dynamic data, especially if you play with the phase and the phase does nothing, but then discover moving the mic around the room shows a null some places and not others.