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Dual Sub Setup - LFE vs Line Level Y-splitter (and a Bonus RC Dip!)

For music listening with 50Hz crossover frequency, stereo subwoofer playback serves no real purpose and only complicates matters.

Feel free to let the WiiM downmix bass to Mono, then feed that to the two subs.
You’re really promoting the LFE connection for the subs. I’m game to try it as it’s a pretty simple cabling change. The hard part was getting it all connected / placed the first time. May I ask, what is it about the LFE connection that I’m not picking up? I’m not arguing against it by any means, I don't have the knowledge to do so, but I’d like to understand. Curiosity killed the cat and all that. Along those lines, I also have the subs sitting tight with the mains. I’ve seen suggestions with the subs sitting one up front and one in the back. If I’m not doing a stereo configuration, would you recommend a different sub placement as well? Might as well pull off the bandaid all at once so to speak… Thanks much. I appreciate your time.
 
When you run 1 sub per speaker aka stereo bass you don't get the primary benefit of multi-sub, which is giving a smoother frequency response due to better room mode distribution. Running the subs as mono below the high-pass point of your speakers is known as bass management.

Using REW you should take a spatial average of each speaker, with the stereo subs then again with the mono subs. Even moving the mic 6" in every direction you should find the stereo subs perform better. Moving mic method is good for this, much faster than merging individual measurements.

Yes, different sub placements are worthwhile, further apart usually being better. Front corners tend to provide the most overall output, mid-point of the walls usually has the smoothest frequency response.
 
When you run 1 sub per speaker aka stereo bass you don't get the primary benefit of multi-sub, which is giving a smoother frequency response due to better room mode distribution. Running the subs as mono below the high-pass point of your speakers is known as bass management.

Using REW you should take a spatial average of each speaker, with the stereo subs then again with the mono subs. Even moving the mic 6" in every direction you should find the stereo subs perform better. Moving mic method is good for this, much faster than merging individual measurements.

Yes, different sub placements are worthwhile, further apart usually being better. Front corners tend to provide the most overall output, mid-point of the walls usually has the smoothest frequency response.
Alright! I’ll try it. I have them front and center now. Available options are front and rear corners and then two on one side (lengthwise) on one side. I’m supposing the opposing corners would provide the best coverage. I’ll start there. Thank you for the time you took to respond…
 
Consider a mini iTX build with PCI E 1 line and sound card in it as main point instead of Mini and you are there regarding DSP at least. Even Intel N100 will have enough processing power for audio.
When you get mic and do proper measurements will talk (I hope).
 
Consider a mini iTX build with PCI E 1 line and sound card in it as main point instead of Mini and you are there regarding DSP at least. Even Intel N100 will have enough processing power for audio.
When you get mic and do proper measurements will talk (I hope).
So I already have the mini. It’s only 18 months old. I’ll link it below. What do you think it’ll be missing? Does it require a dedicated sound card? If so, I believe SoundBlaster sells external sound cards… Is there a certain function I’d need to ensure it has?

 
You need multichannel accessable audio card that is unbalanced and I am afraid you won't find such external one. I mean there are some but you will be 5~6 dB in minus with output gain which really doesn't make them any better than good Realtec one and they are old. Internal one's however will work sufficient even so they use similar codec alike DAC for secondary chenels, and will have 2V or close to unbalanced output. AE5 Plus as such and with satisfactory headaphone amplifier and self impedance is still a good all around buy. Even old (new) SB Z SE with old CS DAC as primary will be fine up to 1.75 V for speakers (headaphone amp is much worse with self impedance about 20 ohms). Of course there are interfaces but they are balanced and last but not least there are standalone DSP's (that's what I meant by Mini in a Flex form and such).
 
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