Great battery! Could you provide a list of the parts you used to build it (including the beautiful red switch and the monitor)? Thank you Amir!
The red switch is from Blue Seas. They are the cadillac and defacto standard in marine industry due to their quality and reliability. This one is the model 6006 I think. This is the Amazon listing:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00445KFZ2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It is rated for whopping 500 amps! I use a cool motorized one in my RV van. When the batter management system (BMS) detects a fault, it is able to shut off the entire electrical system by sending a signal to it.
Speaking of BMS, I bought this generic one on Amazon:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZJ96FTJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It is not without faults. The sense and power wires were too short for the large battery cells I was using. It would barely reach past the last cell and I have yet to figure out how to permanently install it. Despite being rated for 100 amps, it only has three holes for soldering wires that can at most handle 14 gauge wire. I used all three slots which gives an effective gauge of 9 AWG. Would have wanted to go down to 6 gauge. I kept the length short to keep the resistance low. Will have to see how well it works when I draw more current from it. Good news is that at 20+ amps and 260 watts of output, it does not heat up at all. It must have a ton of paralleled, low on resistance mosfets which at this price is remarkable.
Note that it has a different input for charging and it is limited to 10 amps. This is fine in this application but in RV use and such, I want to be able to charge at 100+ amps so would not work there. Or if you have a solar system that outputs more than 10 amps.
The battery monitoring comes from these guys:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XPT7JXR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I got the 300 amp version and was amazed that it would still accurately give me current usage down to milliamps! Nice that it comes with the shunt so you don't have to guess which one to get and then calibrate the unit to use it.
Besides these, I used a bunch of miscellaneous parts which I have for termination and large gauge wiring. I also use these wonderful MRBF series fuses right at the terminal for overall protection:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019ZBTV4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Not cheap but they extremely high quality and reliable. Importantly, they connect right at the terminal so don't need to be mounted anywhere. I have clocked mine in the RV at over 300 amps and it does not get warm at all.
The batteries come from Voltronix:
https://voltronix.com/
The manufacturer is in China of course. They look like this:
The ones I have are similar to the right ones and are rated for 100 amp hour. Safe rating for discharge is 100 amps but they can be pushed. In my RV, I have three sets of them in parallel for 300 amp capability (used for the inverter).
The whole thing fit nicely in a standard battery box, leaving me some room for the extra electronics.
Note that very dangerous currents are involved here. While LifePO4 batteries are quite safe as far as thermal run away and puncture is concerned, they do store incredible amount of energy. One short and you could do serious harm to yourself and surroundings. So please don't embark on this project unless you fully know the risks and safety protocols you have to undertake.
